Intro and a few q's [Archive] - VWWatercooled Australia

Corderoy

04-02-2009, 08:56 PM

Evening all,

Six months ago I bought my daughter's '95 Cordoba (140K) with a view to fixing it up as a runaround for my wife.

I've mucked around with cars, on and off, for over 40 years (although the last euro-car I worked on was my Fiat 125 in 1978 ) and have a reasonable workshop and tools.

There's a bit of history to this car but to condense it to manageable proportions:-
It was overheated ("got a bit hot" according to my daughter) and as a result ended up with coolant in the sump.

A month or so prior to that, the auto transmission cooler corroded internally and ended up with coolant in the transmission case.

The sensor/switch for the thermo fans is faulty which would probably explain the engine overheating.

The air-con pump is faulty (air-con doesn't work) according to an auto electrician my daughter had it to just prior to the transmission probs.

I've finally got around to having a look at it and pulled the head off it today. The gasket "looks" ok. I'm guessing the head is cracked but in any event I'll take it and the gasket down to the local head place tomorrow.

With regard to the transmission oil cooler - after hunting around locally for a replacement I ended up fitting an aftermarket radiator type cooler which bypasses the radiator. This appears to work well and I was assured by the VW dealer's workshop foreman there's no problem with doing that modification.

The problem with the transmission (after half a dozen flushes here at home and a full flush and filter replacement at the local auto trans guy) is that it won't change up 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 unless it's doing around 4000rpm. If it's driven normally it will just stay in 1st (until it's doing 4K rpm).
From memory it changes down ok.

Trans guy reckons it could be a solenoid but if anyone has a suggestion, I'm all ears.

I guess I'll replace the air-con pump with a second hand one so that shouldn't be a huge production.

So, that's the condensed version.

I've got a Haynes manual for the Seat but it's a very complex manual to work by.... particularly with greasy hands.... "do this but refer to section 4a first" which then takes you to 5b and then onto 3c, or whatever, lol.

Thanks for reading this far and if anyone has questions/advice/hints please speak up.
I'm old enough to realise there's still a lot to learn :)

Cupra

05-02-2009, 04:05 PM

Hi Corderoy & welcome to the forum.

I'm sure some of the guys will chime in here shortly with advice for your problems. There are some very helpful/knowledgeable vw/seat guys on here.

Cheers

Phil

evorobin

05-02-2009, 04:46 PM

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you will be busy, where are you update your location?

Hopefully near Cambelltown ;-)

Corderoy

05-02-2009, 05:29 PM

Hi Corderoy & welcome to the forum.

I'm sure some of the guys will chime in here shortly with advice for your problems. There are some very helpful/knowledgeable vw/seat guys on here.

Cheers

Phil

Thanks Phil.... I've been reading this forum intermittently for six months or more and have seen the knowledge that resides here.

I'll be a lot more than "intermittent" over the next few weeks ;)

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you will be busy, where are you update your location?

Hopefully near Cambelltown ;-)

Thanks mate. I'm always busy, lol.

I'm in Bris but I'm aware of the guys at Cambelltown.
I grew up at Chester Hill and have rels on my wife's side at St Marys and Blacktown . We get down to Syd a couple of times each year, so I'm sure we'll meet up at some stage.

Golf Loon

05-02-2009, 09:11 PM

Good luck with the transmision, they are terrible autos.

What process did you go through to get the water out? I`m thinking that maybe the torque converter is full of water still.

What fluid did you use? The book specifies Transmax Z or VW ATF, but some of the early 1.8 work well on Dextron 3. It will say on the cap/dipstick if this is suitable.

Most likely the transmission is gone. :duh: Sorry to be the prophet of doom.

You should get the new radiator fan switch to stop the car overheating and an A/C compressor to stop you overheating.

AC comp is the same as a Golf 3, I can hook you up if you cant get one local.

Welocome to the forum, hope you get round to enjoying that SEAT.

Corderoy

06-02-2009, 12:09 AM

Good luck with the transmision, they are terrible autos.

What process did you go through to get the water out? I`m thinking that maybe the torque converter is full of water still.

Cheers, GL.
All I could do at the time was to fill/run/drain until the fluid was less and less pink. By the time I took it down to the auto guy for a final change and filter it was pretty good.

What fluid did you use? The book specifies Transmax Z or VW ATF, but some of the early 1.8 work well on Dextron 3. It will say on the cap/dipstick if this is suitable.

Most likely the transmission is gone. :duh: Sorry to be the prophet of doom.

It was Dexron 3 as you noted.

I'm not confident that the tranny will be an easy fix. I haven't ever had auto probs that were an easy fix :(

You should get the new radiator fan switch to stop the car overheating and an A/C compressor to stop you overheating.

AC comp is the same as a Golf 3, I can hook you up if you cant get one local.

Welocome to the forum, hope you get round to enjoying that SEAT.

Thanks for the tips and the welcome. I've sent you an email with a view to sorting out my options.

Corderoy

06-02-2009, 05:42 PM

A bit of progress in the last day or two...

The head is being done - cost will be $517 inc headgasket kit and new headbolts.

I've sourced an auto trans - $750 with three months warranty

Aircon compressor and thermal fan switch is available and I'll see which way I go with those.

I note with some surprise that the Haynes Manual does NOT include a section for the auto transmission. I can understand that a repair section is not there but unless I've missed it there is no assistance to remove/replace an auto.

As a by the by, is the convention in this forum to restrict my ongoing questions to a prev thread or is it ok to start a new thread as I go along?

My big question atm is where do I find the engine and transmission codes?

I've been told that it should be on a plate in the spare wheel well, but it ain't.

The eng no. starts with "ABS" but I can't find a ref to a Seat engine with an "ABS" code. I can't find a trans code anywhere either.

Appreciate some help with the codes...

Thanks for reading - also thanks to Matt at CamdenGTI he answered my email very quickly and listed a range of options for me... thanks mate.

peedman

06-02-2009, 06:09 PM

Corderoy

06-02-2009, 07:01 PM

Engine number is just below the head above where the plastic crankcase breather attaches to the engine block. Its not very clear but thats where it is. As for the transmission code it should be somewhere on the tranny itself, if u climb under ur car and scout around im sure u will find it or sumone can tell u what the code is, im unsure for the autos.

Thanks mate...

I've got the engine number but I can't confirm the engine *code*

The eng # starts with "ABS" but I can't find a ref to an "ABS" code... nor can the parts supplier.

I've been all over the tranny looking for it's *code* but it ain't there, or if it is I'm not going to find it.

I'm actually asking if someone can point me to the ID plate where the codes are listed or if an "ABS" eng *code* can be confirmed.

Cheers...

Golf Loon

06-02-2009, 07:19 PM

ABS is a very early 1.8 engine.
Your car must be a 1994 build.

The engine is identical to the later ones which have a different code, cant remember it off the top of my head. Its A**?

The Transmision code is on a flat plate on the bottom of it.
The code doesnt much matter, if yours has a dipstick, so must the replacement. If yours only has a cap, then the replacement must also.

Haynes is the UK book and 95% of the cars are manual, so they would probably gloss over the auto and a lot of other bits, knowing Mr Haynes.

Basically undo the 3 bolts through the flexplate and keep the torque converter in the gearbox. Other than that its easy.

Cupra

06-02-2009, 09:00 PM

I note with some surprise that the Haynes Manual does NOT include a section for the auto transmission. I can understand that a repair section is not there but unless I've missed it there is no assistance to remove/replace an auto.

I've had this manual for a few years now & never noticed it was missing an auto trany section :duh:

Golf Loon

06-02-2009, 09:02 PM

ADZ is the later engine code. Its the same as ABS, just from 1995-1999 ;)

Corderoy

06-02-2009, 10:40 PM

ADZ is the later engine code. Its the same as ABS, just from 1995-1999 ;)

Thanks again, Loon...

I also found reference to "ABS" engine on a Dayco website.

You're right in that the car is plated at 01/95 which obviously means built in '04.

I've been under the trans with lights, mirrors and I just cant see anything at all stamped under there. There are 3 flat areas which could have been used but alas there's nothing stamped on them :(

I'll give it a good wipe down tomorrow and maybe that will show it...

I haven't had a close look at what's involved in removing the trans but does the final drive, or diff or whatever it's called come off with it or is it unbolted from the trans and left attached to the drive shafts?

edit: scratch the last bit, I just had a look and can see it's all one casing.

Corderoy

07-02-2009, 09:51 PM

I'm in the process of removing the transmission and have got to the point of undoing the drive shaft bolts.

It looks like a 12 point? torx head.

I've got a 6 point torx set which was fine for undoing the head bolts but when I tried the 6 point in the final drive bolts it seemed a reasonable fit but spun.
Obviously I don't want to round those buggers so I'm wondering if someone can confirm whether they are in fact 12 point?

I've also got a 5 point torx set on the off chance it's a 10 point bolt.

I've managed to get the Etos software but it only manages to call it "Multi Spline Bolt".

Can someone enlighten me as to the torx type?

Thanks...

Golf Loon

07-02-2009, 10:55 PM

You need a 12 point spline.
You can order em in through repco or a decent tool shop.
I think the size you need is M8, may be M6, its been a while.
Its not a Torx and that wont work.

Mischa

07-02-2009, 11:09 PM

you can get packs of them for pretty cheap if you dont need high torque. they're also called "triple square" bits.

Corderoy

07-02-2009, 11:21 PM

Cheers guys,

I've been hunting around the net looking for info and I came across "spline bits" on a UK campermobile site.

Looks like it's an "M8" I need.

Jeez, I was going to sneak back and edit my post so as not to seem too much a doofus, lol.

Something else I've learned today... spline bits... who'd a thought it :)

Golf Loon

08-02-2009, 07:44 AM

Dont worry mate, they are hard to get in Australia, most tool places and car shops dont have em.

You dont need em for a Hold on, so most of the staff dont care either!

Mischa

08-02-2009, 10:12 AM

if you're stuck, try to find a tool shop who sells stahlwille tools. high quality tools and they sell splines. the short splines are coded "54x".

Corderoy

08-02-2009, 12:08 PM

Ran around Repco, Autobarn, Supercheap this morning.... blank looks.

They can be bought online and also through ebay as kits but I'm a little tentative about buying a "cheapy" as I don't like the prospect of getting those bolts out if they round.

There's a VW mechanic who comes through work occasionally. Not at home when I rang so I emailed him to see if he'd loan me his for a few hours.

Failing that, there's a specialist tool place 15 minutes away so they may be a chance tomorrow.

I was hoping to get the box out today but a couple of days won't make any difference to anything (other than my attitude, lol).

Corderoy

11-02-2009, 08:15 PM

So, drive shafts disconnected, auto unbolted and supported and the only thing I can see that may be a prob is the short drive shaft.

I've got it tied up but there's not a lot of room between it and the tranny.

Does the short driveshaft have to be removed?

edit: nm, got it. Turn wheels hard right and drive shaft can be tied up out of the way

Golf Loon

11-02-2009, 09:10 PM

If you run into trouble you can undo the 3 13mm bolts on the end of the wishbone and move the whole hub, balljoint and axle assy out of the way.

You know to leave the torque converter in the box and undo it through the acess or starter hole right?

Sounds like you are getting closer.

Corderoy

11-02-2009, 10:07 PM

If you run into trouble you can undo the 3 13mm bolts on the end of the wishbone and move the whole hub, balljoint and axle assy out of the way.

That's good info, thanks. I'll do that when installing new box.

You know to leave the torque converter in the box and undo it through the acess or starter hole right?

err, I do now, lol.
I remember you saying that earlier but couldn't work out how to access it and really didn't want to be running in here every few minutes with a new question..
What's the reason for leaving it in the box? (I'm guessing that it gives a lot more room to manoeuvre?)

Sounds like you are getting closer.

It's out, washed down and code revealed :)

william

11-02-2009, 10:41 PM

quoted by loon
If you run into trouble you can undo the 3 13mm bolts on the end of the wishbone

just mark around where the nuts are with liquid paper that way you wont need a wheel alignment or have the steering way off another little trick.

Golf Loon

12-02-2009, 07:05 AM

err, I do now, lol.
I remember you saying that earlier but couldn't work out how to access it and really didn't want to be running in here every few minutes with a new question..
What's the reason for leaving it in the box? (I'm guessing that it gives a lot more room to manoeuvre?)

It also means it will work correctly when reinstalled. If you take it out, it will pour fluid everywhere and may not line up right when you put it back in.

Corderoy

12-02-2009, 03:06 PM

just mark around where the nuts are with liquid paper that way you wont need a wheel alignment or have the steering way off another little trick.

Good tip, thanks for that.

It also means it will work correctly when reinstalled. If you take it out, it will pour fluid everywhere and may not line up right when you put it back in.

Cheers mate.

I was surpirised at the lack of trans fluid leaking out. Mind you it sat for six months but I'm not sure whether that would make a difference to a torque converter

The replacement box is supplied with tc, so I guess I'll have to make up an alignment tool.

Corderoy

14-02-2009, 12:26 PM

Nest question,

for exchange purposes is all of the pic regarded as the torque converter or would I have to pull it apart (does it come apart?) and keep the ring gear etc?

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/02/SeatTC-1.jpg

Golf Loon

14-02-2009, 12:39 PM

Thats the torque converter that you were suppossed to leave in the gearbox when you removed it :duh:

There is a plate behind it which has a hole in it, on the back of the engine with a rubber bung in it.

Rotate the flexplate and undo the three nuts as they come round to the hole. 14mm or 15mm.

The flexplate should than be attached to the engine and the torque converter should be still in the gearbox.

Replace in reverse order.

Corderoy

14-02-2009, 12:43 PM

Thats the torque converter that you were suppossed to leave in the gearbox when you removed it :duh:

Not much of a challenge doing it the easy way ;)

Cheers mate...

Corderoy

16-02-2009, 03:51 PM

Transmission has arrived.

Whilst I'm getting motivated to install it can someone tell me if the final drive flange that the drive shaft (cv joint) connects to is supposed to be packed with grease.
The flange on the new box is bone dry.
In any event, what grease would be used for the cv joints?

Also, I want to change the oil in the final drive but can't find a drain plug.
I've got a hand suction pump so can use that but am wondering if that's the way it's usually done?

Recommended oil/quantity for final drive?

Thanks again...

Corderoy

17-02-2009, 11:32 AM

Transmission installed.

Much easier with the suspension out of the way.

From what I read 3% moly disulphide grease will do for the cv housing. I've got some Penrite here so I'll whack a bit in there on spec.

Can't find specific info on final drive oil or changing it.

Anyone done it?

Golf Loon

17-02-2009, 01:48 PM

Final drive shares its oil with the transmission.

Yup, grease up the hubs and you`ll be fine.

Corderoy

17-02-2009, 05:45 PM

Final drive shares its oil with the transmission.

Yup, grease up the hubs and you`ll be fine.

Thanks again :)

You've probably caught on that I haven't had much experience with FWD auto's... actually as I rapidly approach my sixth decade, this is the first one, lol.

Golf Loon

17-02-2009, 07:02 PM

All good mate, next one will be easier.

Corderoy

20-02-2009, 07:28 PM

Bits turned up today.... thanks Matt, great service and prices.

It's 90% finished.

Just got to finish securing wiring harnesses (spent a fair bit of time replacing the insulation on the harnesses), spark plugs/leads, change oils and filters, front end/radiator back on and voila!

Providing it actually all works I'll take it in on Tues and get the aircon guy to do his thing.

Corderoy

22-02-2009, 03:32 PM

So, I've come to an agonisingly slow halt...

History:

Ignition/starting was operating normally when it was parked.
Has been parked without starting for six months.

Recently fitted reco head and new head gasket kit.
Recently fitted second hand "CFK" auto transmission.
Recently fitted thermo fan sensor/switch.

Car back together except for headlights, grill, front bar.

Problem: Car won't start.

Symptom: No power from ignition switch to starter (tested with test lamp).
Nothing happens at the starter when the ign switch is turned to "start" (with foot on brake pedal). No solenoid clunk, whirring etc.

Troubleshooting:
Checked all engine bay wiring/connectors - ok (can't see any missed)
Fuses checked - ok
Starter removed and bench tested - ok
Flywheel manually rotates - yes

My Haynes does not have an auto trans section so I'm really flying blind with regard to the auto trans detent switch. I assume that the detent switch on an auto would cut power from the ign switch to the starter?

From what I can glean on the internet the Cordoba has a "Multifunction Switch"
This is the MFS on mine:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/02/MFSw-2.jpg

I removed this switch and had a play with the two plungers. They operate something in the "carby" (or whatever it's called).
When I press the MFS plungers (ign 'on') there is also an audible "clunk" which can also be felt through the T-bar.

I have a spare MFS and harness and both do the same thing.

My question is:
Is this switch also the trans detent switch or is there another switch for that function?

I haven't checked the ignition switch or relay as there was no prior problem with starting.

I've got a feeling the problem is to do with the auto detent switch but I'm unsure what to do next.

Any clues?

Thanks/

Golf Loon

22-02-2009, 05:55 PM

It should be in the shifter. Check that the cable is adjusted correctly at the gearbox end and it moves fully forward in the shifter box inside the car.

I`d turn the ignition to on with the reds on on the dash.

Then with the froint wheels off the ground, hotwire the starter with a jumperwire from the big terminal to the small and see if the thing starts.

There is a relay attached to the fusebox that controls the autolockout. A jumper wire there will defeat it too.

My money is on the cables being bent or incorrecltly adjusted so the car thinks its in D and wont start.

Try it in N and a notch either side.

Corderoy

25-02-2009, 07:40 PM

I've had a chance to troubleshoot a bit more...

I was happy with the gear selector/selection etc but couldn't figure out the no start.

Decided to order an ignition switch as nothing else made much sense.

Bought a new battery for it, connected it up and hot-wired it at the starter motor.... and away she went.
I'd prev been trying to start it with jumper leads as the terminals on the battery I was using were around the wrong way and leads wouldn't reach.

She runs but it rattles - I guess the hydraulic lifters should have been soaked in oil prior to installation?

THEN I looked a few posts down and saw aerohydro's post regarding their ignition switch. I tried lifting mine whilst turning and bugger me it works, lol.

At least the ignition switch is proven as the prob - I rang my daughter (car's ex-owner) and asked her if she'd had any trouble starting it...."oh, I had to jiggle the key sometimes..." doh!

My next problem (yes, there is now something else, lol) is that because of the remote starting I'd neglected to turn the ignition off whilst I topped up the engine and transmission oil (and mopped up the Dexron I'd spilt).

When I disposed of the rags I could smell something burning.
I disconnected the battery and found that the coil was extremely hot - hot enough to melt part of the plastic around the bottom of it.

Is that what happens on these if you leave the ignition on for five minutes or have I got another problem?

Corderoy

27-02-2009, 10:09 PM

Except for fitting the new ignition switch (thanks again, Matt) she's all done :)

New (used) trans didn't want to play to start off with.... slow to change up/down but a good thrashing on a quiet road fixed it.
For a while I thought I was going to have to do a Basil Fawlty and thrash it with a stick but it came to its senses just in time.

I got a second hand coil (I guess you guys aren't surprised that VW wanted $260!!) which has been modified.
Whoever did the mod has used the original "control unit" and connected that to a Bosch coil. I guess that they were either stuck and had to do it or worked out that it's a lot cheaper to replace a Bosch unit than a "VW" unit.

I'll take a pic if anyone is interested in a look.

All in all an interesting exercise. I must admit that I put off working on it for those six months because it just looked so complex but having had it apart it's actually not too difficult to work on.

Sincere thanks for the assistance along the way, guys. I probably would have waded my way through it but there's no doubt that it would have been a lot more difficult and even more expensive :eek: