Engine Oil

[Snoopycrx]

Hi all,

I am planning to change engine oil for my Polo GTI when it reaches 7500KM. Does anyone have an idea as to what brand and type of oil is suitable for this car? e.g 10W-40

Cheers

[GTIJNR]

Read ur manual, i don't think you can find our oil on the maket yet. VW recomemded Castrol, so i'll look at the Castrol Edge ranges. Y change its so early??? The synth in there would last 10.000 kms easy. N 10W40 is too thick 4 a 7500kms old engine.

some digging found:

Castrol Edge 0W-40 surpasses a wide range of specifications and has
numerous manufacturer approvals and suitable where the following
requirements are called for:
American Petroleum Institute (API) Service Classifications:
• Petrol :SM, (SL, SJ, SH and all superseded classifications).
• Diesel :CF
Association of Constructors of European Automobiles (ACEA):
• A3 (Stay-in-grade, extended drain intervals for high performance
petrol engines).
• B3 (Stay-in-grade for high performance indirect injection diesel engines).
• B4 (Stay-in-grade for modern high performance direct injection
diesel engines).
• BMW Longlife 01.
• Mercedes Benz 229.3 approved.
• VW 502.00, 503.01 and 505.00 approved. ( VW 502.00 suited for GTI but NOT long life service, n please don't use a repco filter lol)

[GTIJNR]

Also

Castrol Edge Sport 5W-30 is recommended where the following
current and superseded specification of performance levels are cited:
American Petroleum Institute (API) Service Classification:
• Petrol: SM (SL, SJ and superseded classifications)
• Diesel: CF
Association des Constructeurs Européens d’Automobiles (ACEA):
• Passenger and Light Commercial Vehicles -
• Petrol: A3*
• Diesel: B3*, B4* (recommended for diesel, including turbocharged
engines in passenger cars and light commercial vehicles)
• May also be used where ACEA A1, A2, B1 or B2 are recommended
Motor Manufacturers:
BMW: Longlife Oil 98
Ford: M2C-153D, M2C-153E
GM: 6 094M SG/CC/CD (6085- superseded)
Mercedes-Benz: 229.1, 229.3
VW: 502 00/505 00 Is VW505 00 is Long life service?? As said in BMW???

[Snoopycrx]

Thanks for the info.
What do you mean by Long Life Service?

[GTIJNR]

Last for 15000 kms acording 2 VW is Long life oil

[shaneth]

Well instead of a new thread i thought i would dig up an oldie. also may add the info to FAQ.

Emailed service manager about recommended oil and this was his response.
The oil recommended by Volkswagen is Castrol TXT 50501 5w40

Now my question is i went on castrol australia site and the oil isnt there. :(

Another search found this but it doesnt seem right.


SLX Professional
VW 505 01 5W-40
High performance free flowing synthetic engine oil specifically designed and co-engineered for use in Volkswagon turbo diesel engines. (Not suitable for diesel particular filters)

EDIT : after searching more i can only guess he gave me the wrong one. As it looks like its for diesel cars. CAn any mechanics shead some light. Seb, ANdrew anyone else????

Edit 2 : Now im so Freakin confussed. The castrol site when you search for polo only has the TDI and the CLub and match varients. And all of them recommend Castrol 505 01 which im guessing is the same oil.

[mitch_gti]

I changed my oil and oil filter at 2,500 kms.

VW filter and Shell Helix Ultra 5w40

Changing again when i reach about 5,500 (now on 4,600)

Then flash time.


PS had car since november 06 and im absolutely loving it.:)

[shaneth]

did the shell meet the vw standards??

[mitch_gti]

I rung the service department. Even though i realise the service department representatives are usually quite hopeless they mentioned they use Castrol at the dealership and in the GTI's they use 5w30 synthetic oil.

Im pretty happy with the Shell product, so i will stick to that.

Also stick with the shell 100ron fuel.

On the note of fuels, i was forced to fill up with BP ultimate as shell was out of the 100ron stuff.

BP ultimate :(

[shaneth]

Mitch just a something to keep in mind. If your not running vw spec oil and something happens to your engine it can void your warranty. Heard of a freind who di this with a magna. :(

[Wand Weaver]

BP ultimate :(

That's odd - my GTI loves it's feed of BP Ultimate, when I put V-Power (98RON) into it, it wasn't so happy.

Back on the topic of Engine Oil - this stuff seems to fit the bill:
http://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_ESP_Formula_5W-30.asp

[shaneth]

I dont understand why none of them have the GTI in there car lists.

[Wand Weaver]

I dont understand why none of them have the GTI in there car lists.

Well, the Mobil site I just linked to just listed out the standards which the oil complies to, no mention of specific cars at all.

What you're looking for is VW 502 00 compatible oil.

[shaneth]

Yeah on the mobile site you can search by specific car. Im yet to double check my manual but is that what it says (502 00) as the service manager at VW said 505 01

[Wand Weaver]

See Page 18, Booklet 3.3.

Longlife Service:
VW 504 00
VW 503 00

No Longlife Service:
VW 501 01
VW 502 00
VW 504 00.

It also says that the engine won't detonate with 91RON, although it will knock until the "anti knock system" (ie knock sensor) is activated and burn more petrol. At least I don't have to worry *too* much if I get caught out on an interstate trip.

[shaneth]

LOL @ Service Manager. Thanks Wand thats great.


Heres Just a few ive found. Hope this helps.

Castrol Edge Sport 5w 30 - VW 502 00
Castrol Edge 0W-40 - VW 502.00, 503.01 and 505.00 approved.
Shell Helix Ultra 5w 40 - VW 500.00, 502.00 and 505.00
Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5W-30 - VW 504.00 Approved
Mobil 1 0W-40 - VW 502.00/505.00,503.01 Approved.

[Spec83]

I changed to Castrol Edge Sport 0W-40 @ 12,500kms - not cheap at $79 for 4l but turbo engines always need to be fed good oil... Didn't really notice too much of a difference in performance but the car seems to warm up a bit quicker and is a little noisier on cold start... I will be changing every 7,500kms...

Synthetic oils should be better suited to longlife services as they tend not to breakdown like mineral oils... so there would probably be no problem using something like Castrol Edge sythetics for 15,000kms. Also with engine failure - if you use an oil which exceeds VW specs then they can do nothing under warranty - if you put Castrol GTX or Homebrand 20w-50 in it well that may be another story.

Just a side note - i have done 16,500kms in my polo in 6mths - i have to stop driving so much :P

[MINTpolo]

Hey there,

Just reviving an old thread on the subject of oils. Can anyone tell me what the oil capacity of a 1.8T GTI is? I have searched high and low on this forum and can't find an answer, also I don't trust my user manual which states that 3.2L is required for every petrol engine they list (including the 1.8T) which seems odd, considering some of them are 3 Cylinder engines and 3.2L doesnt seem enough to me.

On a side note, I am using ELF Excellium GP fully synth, 5W40.

Thanks if you can help.

[Blitzen]

Hehehehehehehe...To the full mark on the dip stick...Sorry, its an old joke, but a good one!!j:

[Bubu]

Somewhere around 4 - 4.5L. I cant remember what it says in my manual but it does state the correct amount.

[bec]

what is this the oil used for?
sorry i dont know anything about cars :(
why do you need to change it?
why do some people change it more often than others?
what happens if you don't change it?
:???::???::???::???::???:

[Bubu]

what is this the oil used for?
sorry i dont know anything about cars :(
why do you need to change it?
why do some people change it more often than others?
what happens if you don't change it?
:???::???::???::???::???:

The oil mentioned on this post is the engine oil. Engine oil lubricates all the moving parts in the engine so that there is not much wear and it makes the engine run smooth. The oil also helps cool the inside of the engine where water cannot be circulated.

You need to change oil becuase it gets dirty and it looses its ability to lubricate the inside of your engine properly. There are other reasons for changing oil but we will leave it at that.

Some people change their oil more regurarly because they live in dusty regions and the oil gets dirty sooner. Others, like myself, change the oil more regularly than what the manufacturer recommends because we drive our cars a bit harder and it gives us peace of mind. Volkswagen recommends that the oil be changed once you have travelled 15,000kms. Part of the reason they dont recommend to do it earlier is because it will cost the owner more to maintain the car. When people, who dont know much about cars, want to buy a new car they may look at running costs of that model/make of car. If the service/oil change is done more regurarly then the running cost of the car would be higher and the potential buyer may not purchase the car because of the higher maintenance costs compared to competitors.

If you dont change the oil the engine will start to run a bit more rough, your fuel consumption will probably increase, your engine would wear out sooner and you will eventually damage the engine to the point where the car is no longer driveable.

Having said all that I personally know someone who bought a brand new car and didnt change the oil until 60,000 kms. :o She didnt know you had to get the car serviced :confused: She sold the car not long after that and it was still running fine.

[insanekiwi]

If you get a modification chip for your car, it's worth while doing the oil change more frequently due to extra strain on the engine.

I will be changing mine every 7500km. First one done at 17000km from previous owner, and my next oil change is at 25000km. Then again at around 32500km.

It's one of the easiest way to protect your engine. apart from giving it hell from cold starts.

[mitch_gti]

Owned GTI since nov 06.

11,500 kms.

Four oil changes soo far.
Cheap insurance if you ask me

[MINTpolo]

Somewhere around 4 - 4.5L. I cant remember what it says in my manual but it does state the correct amount.

Thanks for that, i will tentativley put in around 4L whilst checking the dipstick to see how full it gets.

Makes you wonder what they were thinking in my handbook stating 3.2L. My previous car, a 1.8 Mazda took 3.8L with a small oil filter, which made me think that surely the 1.8T would be at least that capacity or more...

[SoVeReIgN]

The oil mentioned on this post is the engine oil. Engine oil lubricates all the moving parts in the engine so that there is not much wear and it makes the engine run smooth. The oil also helps cool the inside of the engine where water cannot be circulated.

You need to change oil becuase it gets dirty and it looses its ability to lubricate the inside of your engine properly. There are other reasons for changing oil but we will leave it at that.

Some people change their oil more regurarly because they live in dusty regions and the oil gets dirty sooner. Others, like myself, change the oil more regularly than what the manufacturer recommends because we drive our cars a bit harder and it gives us peace of mind. Volkswagen recommends that the oil be changed once you have travelled 15,000kms. Part of the reason they dont recommend to do it earlier is because it will cost the owner more to maintain the car. When people, who dont know much about cars, want to buy a new car they may look at running costs of that model/make of car. If the service/oil change is done more regurarly then the running cost of the car would be higher and the potential buyer may not purchase the car because of the higher maintenance costs compared to competitors.

If you dont change the oil the engine will start to run a bit more rough, your fuel consumption will probably increase, your engine would wear out sooner and you will eventually damage the engine to the point where the car is no longer driveable.

Having said all that I personally know someone who bought a brand new car and didnt change the oil until 60,000 kms. :o She didnt know you had to get the car serviced :confused: She sold the car not long after that and it was still running fine.

Fantastic post. :)

Couldn't have said it better myself.

[MissVuks]

was having a bit of dicush with my older brother (drives a clio sport) about changing the oil in my car and hes really surprised that my oil doesnt need changing until the 15,00km service (as per the manual).

He mentioned that most new cars should have their oil and filters changed at 1500km to clear the car of any gunk and debris?

So i rang VW to enquire - they quoted me $200. Brother thinks this is rip off.. Can anyone give me a rough estimate as to how much it should cost cos it doesnt sound like brain surgery to change some oil and a filter. (being a novice i cant exactly do it on my own).

[mitch_gti]

Synthetic oil (5 litres) = 55ish
VW oil filter = 12-17


''labour'' for changing the oil. SURELY they wouldnt charge you anymore than about 30 bucks.


Oil change at 1,500 - 3,000 is good. 3 thousand doesnt take most people long to rack up.

[MissVuks]

well he quoted me $200 LOL what an a$$

Well i ain't taking it there i can tell you that much..

Is it an easy DIY job (or make my dad DIHimselfWhileISuperviseJob) LOL or taking it to sebs @ giraween

i actually wouldnt mind learning how to do it.. cant be that hard can it??

[MINTpolo]

well he quoted me $200 LOL what an a$$

Well i ain't taking it there i can tell you that much..

Is it an easy DIY job (or make my dad DIHimselfWhileISuperviseJob) LOL or taking it to sebs @ giraween

i actually wouldnt mind learning how to do it.. cant be that hard can it??

Hi there,

from my experice last weekend i can tell you that as far as oil changes go its not that hard. The oil filter is easy to get to at the front of the engine and i did the whole job without jacking the car up (used a slight driveway lip to get more room). The only complications are needing a "torx" type allen key to get the plastic cover undeneath the engine off so you can get to the oil filter. The other slightly annoying bit is the mess that occurs when you pull the oil filter off. Stuff alot of old cloths in there! You may also need an oil filter wrench to get leverage to take it off, mine was on tightly.

I'd say only undertake this one if you have someone handy who has done an oil and filter change before..i.e Dad.

BTW, my car sucked down about between 4.5 and 4.8L of oil and is not overfilled, alot more than the 3.2L stated in my manual :o

[SoVeReIgN]

well he quoted me $200 LOL what an a$$

Well i ain't taking it there i can tell you that much..

Is it an easy DIY job (or make my dad DIHimselfWhileISuperviseJob) LOL or taking it to sebs @ giraween

i actually wouldnt mind learning how to do it.. cant be that hard can it??

$200 isn't that bad at all for a dealer!

$100 in parts, $100 in labour and more importantly, a stamp in the book to say you changed it early. A couple of those and you'll make your money back when you sell it.

But yeah it is piss easy to do..
1. Jack car up
2. Put oil catcher/pan under engine
3. Undo sump bolt on engine (Single bolt right down the bottom, easy to find)
4. Let oil flow out
5. Wait 5, unscrew oil filter
6. Screw new oil filter on
7. Do sump bolt back up
8. Pour oil in.

I've got it down to about ~10minutes after changing it about 5 million times. Significantly easier if you don't change the filter (I usually only change it every second oil change)

[MissVuks]

Sounds like a weekend project then :)

my dad is a compression mechanic and my brother knows his way around cars so it doesnt sound like it should be too complicated!

Thanks for all the tips guys..

Lora :)

[Kev_GTI]

I was considering doing an oil change on my polo but just needed some advice. I was getting an oil + filter service done every 7500km from the dealer but this is expensive! So was gonna have a crack at it

Im pretty hopeless when it comes to DIY car maintanence so just wondering if someone could help us out with some questions:

Firstly, this is probably a stupid question but how would u guys get under ur car?? was going to get some ramps but realised that the front of the car would scrape the ramps when driving up them. ie car was too low. last resort i guess u could put 2 wheels up on the curb on the side of the road

Where can i get an oil filter for the polo gti? went to autobarn and they said they didnt have one. Do u have to buy one from VW?

Any advice would be appreciated!

[NickZ]

Go to VW and buy one. Only costs $18 and $4 for a sump plug. Seeing as your car is under warranty, I would only use a genuine filter.

This thread is also a good reason why not to use any Ryco filter anyway (stick with German parts!)

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=20186

What oil are you using?

[Blitzen]

I was considering doing an oil change on my polo but just needed some advice. I was getting an oil + filter service done every 7500km from the dealer but this is expensive! So was gonna have a crack at it

Im pretty hopeless when it comes to DIY car maintanence so just wondering if someone could help us out with some questions:

Firstly, this is probably a stupid question but how would u guys get under ur car?? was going to get some ramps but realised that the front of the car would scrape the ramps when driving up them. ie car was too low. last resort i guess u could put 2 wheels up on the curb on the side of the road

Where can i get an oil filter for the polo gti? went to autobarn and they said they didnt have one. Do u have to buy one from VW?

Any advice would be appreciated!

Ok

On having the low car, doing the gutter thing is cool(I have done this heaps of times, but as I get fatter, I have to use ramps or a trolly jack now!!), or you could still use you normal ramps, but use lengths of timber in front of them to gradually raise your car up so the nose clears the ramps(I do this all the time on my housemates drift car).
Second, as stated above, go to your local VW dealer to buy the filter. While the vehicle is under warranty, it is necessary to use OEM filters so as to avoid voiding the warranty.

[Kev_GTI]

Go to VW and buy one. Only costs $18 and $4 for a sump plug. Seeing as your car is under warranty, I would only use a genuine filter.

This thread is also a good reason why not to use any Ryco filter anyway (stick with German parts!)

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=20186

What oil are you using?

Thanks for the advice mate! i will do that

I bought castrol edge sport 5w 30, ive been using the same to top up my oil.
Is the sump plug disposable? i noticed they charged me for a sump plug at one of my services...

Anyways thanks again

Kev

[NickZ]

To be honest, you don't need to change the sump plug on an in between service. However, if you don't change it at least every couple of services, the seal wears out and you will get a slow oil leak from the sump plug.

I change it cos its $4 and it would be more hassle if it did start leaking.

[Roodosutaa]

Do you guys use engine flush first before draining the oil?

Also I've got an almost full 5L bottle of 5W-50 Mobil 1 left from my MX-5 days - reckon i could just fill up the Pog with it?

[JIMTRON]

Do you guys use engine flush first before draining the oil?

Also I've got an almost full 5L bottle of 5W-50 Mobil 1 left from my MX-5 days - reckon i could just fill up the Pog with it?

I've been using MOBIL 1 0W-40 , this has all the needed VW approval (502.00/503.01/505). You'd wanna check your 5W-50 has this too, otherwise I would steer clear, I believe it may be a warranty issue.

[NickZ]

Do you guys use engine flush first before draining the oil?

No, but I go back to the dealer every 15000km who would do it. Can't tell you how necessary it is.


Also I've got an almost full 5L bottle of 5W-50 Mobil 1 left from my MX-5 days - reckon i could just fill up the Pog with it?

Nope. You need VW 501.01, VW502 or VW504. 5w-50 is only VW505 compliant. Might seem like a technicality but I wouldn't jeapordise the health of the engine or your warranty for a bottle of oil.

[imprompt]

I found this when searching the net which may be of some use - http://members.ozemail.com.au/~avdw/pdf/VW%20502%2000/VW%20502%2000%20Oil%20Chart.pdf

[Catfish]

Here’s my experience on all of this, for what it’s worth.

I’ve had much discussion with Castrol tech reps and learned as follows:

Edge 5W30 meets the specs for all turbo VW four cylinder cars. So does Edge 0W40, but it’s more expensive and not necessary unless you live in a really cold climate (like Alaska).

Time is as important for oil/filter changes as distance travelled. So if you don’t do many ks (like me), change the oil AT LEAST once a year.

Change the filter EVERY TIME you change the oil, and use a genuine VW filter to avoid function/warranty problems (they don’t cost much more than the Ryco or Valvoline substitutes).

The shelf life of full synthetic oil (Edge or any of the others) in an unopened container is three years, so you can buy the stuff when it’s on special at Supercheap (typically about $10 off rrp) and keep a supply.

Now, about changing the oil in a Polo (GTI):

Warm the engine to operating temp. Park the car on a level surface, or up on a hoist if you’re lucky.

Take off the engine undertray (8 torx screws). I’ve left mine off permanently for easy access to the sump/gearbox etc, but it’s up to you.

Remove the sump plug (19mm hex spanner or socket) and drain the oil.

Re the sump plug – these are designed to be reused many times. The sealing washer is permanently attached to the plug, is about 2mm thick and always seals properly if done up tightly. If you’ve been charged for a new one at an oil change (by a dealer or otherwise), it’s a rip off.

Remove the old oil filter. Doing this for the first time on a new car can be difficult as the factory employs big Arnie types to screw them on. I’ve tried many different oil filter wrenches, and found the strap type (get one from Supercheap, Autobarn or Repco for under $20) to be best for getting tight filters off without crushing the can. After the first removal, it’s easy as you won’t be over tightening the replacement.

Clean around the sump drain hole and replace the sump plug (reasonably tight, but don’t overdo it as the sump is aluminium and the thread can strip).

Put a smear of oil on the filter gasket and screw the filter on until it just bottoms on its mounting. Then tighten the filter about another two thirds of a turn BY HAND ONLY. Tools should never be used to do up oil filters. Cheap rubber gloves will help you get a grip on the filter if wrist strength is a problem.

Wipe any spilled oil off the underside of the engine so that any real leaks can be detected.

Pour 4l of oil into the filler hole (easier with a tunnel) and replace the cap. Start the engine and idle for a couple of minutes to fill the filter and check for any leaks around the filter or the drain plug. If the filler cap isn’t on when the engine is running oil will spray out from the valve gear.

Leave the engine off for about five minutes to allow the oil to drain back into the sump, then fill to the top mark on the dipstick in progressive glugs of about 150ml, checking the dipstick each time to make sure you don’t overfill. A small measuring jug is useful for this step. The nominal oil capacity is 4.5l (including the filter), buy this can vary a bit from car to car because of casting differences etc.

Remember to replace the filler cap – don’t laugh, I’ve seen what forgetting this does to the underside of the bonnet.

Drive normally and check the oil again after a day or two. Also double check under the car for leaks (very unlikely if all of the above has been followed).

Enjoy the feeling of having done this (properly) yourself and saved much money. After the first time, the whole job should take less than an hour.

Cheers.

[WHTPOLOGTI]

"Take off the engine undertray (8 torx screws). I’ve left mine off permanently for easy access to the sump/gearbox etc, but it’s up to you."

do you have to take this off to have access to the sump oil box?

[Stuwey]

No, you don't have to remove it to access the sump plug, but you will have to remove it to get to the oil filter.

BTW, i'd put it back on after, aerodynamics are a fickle thing under your car.

[Joe Chu]

We only used Mobil 1 0W40, this was what we fed Golf Gti and Polo Gti when I was at the Dealer. This is also the only oil recomended for Bentley Gt's which is Volkswagens mega buck engine. W12 twin turbo.

[mikepologti]

strange could have sworn they recommneded castrol in the manual.

[Chrisuk-polo]

Any good quality 5w30s fully synthetic oil will do! I change mine and filter every 5000miles since new !!! :) I love my engine and i know if i change the oil more than needed it will stay gleaming! It can only be good for the engine and costs next to nothing! :)

[archangel_7]

ive been using castrol edge sport every 7500kms up to 60.000kms, just changed oil to castrol magnetic 10w 40.. i think its good enough oil considering engine is run in and summer is coming up and much cheaper as well..

[Jmac]

Penrite HPR5 for the win IMO, and really as ChrisuK states there is no false economy with regular intermediate oil changes

Jmac

[JCM308]

strange could have sworn they recommneded castrol in the manual.

Castrol is not only reccommended in the manual, it is also imprinted onto the oil filler cap.

I'm running Edge Sport 5W30 and no complaints sofar :D

[break]

ive been using castrol edge sport every 7500kms up to 60.000kms, just changed oil to castrol magnetic 10w 40.. i think its good enough oil considering engine is run in and summer is coming up and much cheaper as well..For the extra $10 it costs to get the 5w-30 Castrol Edge I think you're crazy not to get it.

Sure, I can understand not seeing the value between $70+ of Mobil 1 compared to $50 of Castrol Edge... but you should at least go a full synth for any turbo car :eek:

[instigator]

Castrol Edge is verry good oil if you go drive on a cirquit.
for daily use it's not the best oil.
it's made for driving on constant high RPM's and the oil is really is good when the engine is hot.
it will also keep constant temp. when you push it to the limit.
i use Mobil 1 because it's more forgiving for colder engine start. (wich is important)
and for the rest its about the same as Castrol Edge ;)

[mikepologti]

funny, i thaugth it wasnt a good idea to change engine oils once youve been using one?

[instigator]

does not matter alot, if you don't change every time you give it a service..
VW uses Longlife oil, not bad oil, but it's made for making more mile's.
and a GTI is a sportscar and most of the people use it that way, so youre better of with better oil then longlife.
so if you change to something better, it's better for the car ;-)

[brad]

Castrol Edge is verry good oil if you go drive on a cirquit.
for daily use it's not the best oil.
it's made for driving on constant high RPM's and the oil is really is good when the engine is hot.
it will also keep constant temp. when you push it to the limit.
i use Mobil 1 because it's more forgiving for colder engine start. (wich is important)
and for the rest its about the same as Castrol Edge ;)

WTF? I realise English isn't your first language but your info on Castrol Edge (which viscosity are you referring to?) is just wrong.

VAG engines that require a VW502.00 spec oil will run just fine on a daily basis if Castrol Edge Sport 5w-30 is your oil of choice.

[insanekiwi]

WTF? I realise English isn't your first language but your info on Castrol Edge (which viscosity are you referring to?) is just wrong.

VAG engines that require a VW502.00 spec oil will run just fine on a daily basis if Castrol Edge Sport 5w-30 is your oil of choice.

I think his english is fine, and makes sense. His views may be different... or may have the wrong information. Don't really need to start your reply with WTF...

anyways, engine oils. Mobil 1 is nice, but I hate how they come in 4 litre packs in New Zealand, I always ended up buying 2... :-(

I am happy with Castrol Edge, but trying Valvoline new fullsynthetic one this time. But I believe, as long as you change 'decent engine oil' regularly at 5000km or 7500km, that's the best thing you can do..

It's like a having the best nappy on a baby, and changing it once a week, compared to decent nappy getting changed every day.... - well not the best comparison... but you get the point.

And as for magnatec - non-synthetic ones maybe more beneficial when you first get the car to up to 10000-15000km (and of course replaced at regular intervals), but to use full-synthetic from then on. This would help with the initial engine wear to get rid of all new excess bits to be removed, then to coat it with full-synthetic to prevent further wear. That's what I do with all my brand new cars. Polo GTI I got at 19000km so I haven't had a chance, I think it had a long life oil till 16000km!!! driven by a lady, serviced once. But then my engine performs well with no oil consumption at all.

[Blitzen]

I have been using Castrol Edge 0W-40 from day dot. Working well so far after 52,000km.

[blackbetty]

just thought i'd jump in and say that on weekend i changed my oil in the black polo gti(no longer under warranty so i'll save the money and do the services myself).

after much research on this forum looking up engine oil stuff, i went for nulon 5w-30, fully synthetic. its aussie and it meets the the vw standards. im dam happy with it so far, but i've prob only done 50km in it since changing the oil. seesm to idle smoother, at cruise speed the engine has a nice crisp engine rev which wasnt there with the dealer oil (i dont exactly know what they used, but i think it was castrol something). my first time with nulon too.

i know FUCHS make good stuff too, so i'll prob give that a crack next time.

[pologti18t]

Putting fully synth oil in a Polo GTi and then changing it every 5000km is just a waste.

For example. A friend has a MX5 SP (1.8L turbo with 140rwkw) and gets it serviced by the book. 10000km oil changes using dealer supplied oil (semi synth magnatec). It has 140,000km+ on the engine with no issues.


Castrol Edge is verry good oil if you go drive on a cirquit.
for daily use it's not the best oil.


that sounds like unsubstantiated rubbish to me :)

[blackbetty]

its arguable that street driven motors have to deal with a wider range of variables and therefore stresses, temperature etc when compared to a circuit race motor (always driven to extreme - which is what they are built for). i can state from experience (i have built engines for street and track although not VW/audi engines) that its ALSO in the street car you want the good quality oil in. and 10K or a yr is a good life span for a good quality oil.

its prev been said in this thread- go for the vw approved oils and you cant go wrong.

[brad]

Putting fully synth oil in a Polo GTi and then changing it every 5000km is just a waste.


that sounds like unsubstantiated rubbish to me :)
Give that man a bear.:cool:

[instigator]

it's not my first language no, i only know the basic stuff, so yes, it's hard to explain what i realy mean.
and i don't say or mean that castrol oil is bad.
don't get me wrong, it's one of the best oil's arround.
but you have to use youre car for driving such oil.
the oil comes better to his right if you use it proper, then you see why it's such good oil.
it's just not the oil for driving nice and slow every day because then you can also keep using the longlife or something else.
the castrol oil lubricates at his best when youre driving on a Cirquit or so.
it can keep his temprature constant.
and other oil can "overheat" thats what that oil is made for.
and it's made for high performance engine's that make higher RPM's, such as BMW M3.
and i only said that youre better off with Mobil 1 oil for daily use as it has the same result as castrol oil, but it's better "useable" on daily bases and specially on cold starts.
so i diddn't say that castrol oil may break down your engine or so.
it's such a small diffenrence that it probably don't even matter ;-)

[blackbetty]

thought i'd update you all on my oil choice as its been around 6mths since i changed it.
used nulon 5w-30
done about 6000kms on it so far and i gotta say its still clean like new, and my engine still has a real nice crisp engine rev, like when the oil was new

[break]

Putting fully synth oil in a Polo GTi and then changing it every 5000km is just a waste.You really are clueless aren't you. Drop the oil in any turbo car after 5,000km on a good full synthetic oil and you'll be shocked at just how black it will be.

Sure, you can go longer then 5,000km on full synth, but I think you're absolutely bonkers to go longer than that if you like to give your car a bit of stick every now and again.

In terms of engine feel, particularly idle, I can notice a BIG improvement straight after changing oil... and that's with only 5,000km on my oil... I'd hate to see what 10-15k on the oil would be like.

[Transporter]

Yeap, it doesn't hurt to change the oil every 5K and you're right on money there that when you drive short trips, drive harder or take your car to track days you need to change engine oil sooner. Not just the engine oil whole maintenance schedule needs to be look at especially if the engine is chipped!

Otherwise the life of the car (engine) will be reduced. Of course it doesn't make a sense to argue about that, since every one has their own opinion and many people keep their car for a short time only. :)

For these who change the oil once a year I suggest that you change the oil before summer.

I change oil in our cars every 7,500 km :cool:

[Buller_Scott]

hey tranny, just on that note.....

ive been chipped since 30,000kms and i stupidly went the normal service interval (15,000km) once, then oil change at 7500km since then.

for chipped diesel, would you reckon i should bring that down to 5000km? i give my car alot of crap btw.....

[Blitzen]

hey tranny, just on that note.....

ive been chipped since 30,000kms and i stupidly went the normal service interval (15,000km) once, then oil change at 7500km since then.

for chipped diesel, would you reckon i should bring that down to 5000km? i give my car alot of crap btw.....

Diesel engines respond to more regular oil changes better than petrol engines, mainly because of the extra particulate build up in diesel engines due to the higher compression. Oil changes every 5000km for diesel engines is a very good thing.

[Buller_Scott]

cheers for confirming that, blitzen.

done and done! 5000kms from now on it is!

[GTI_PAPA]

Hey guys,
Thought I'd change my oil/filter this weekend. Already purchased a filter from VW, but not the oil until I did a little more research. Found some very handy information on a Audi forum, and thought it would be helpful to post it for all to ponder upon:

Below is an article written by John Rowland, Silkolene/Fuchs Chief R & D Chemist for 40 years.

Costs of synthetics vary considerably. The most expensive are the �Ester� types originally only used in jet engines. These cost 6 to 10 times more than high quality mineral oils. The cheapest synthetics are not really synthetic at all, from a chemists point of view. These are in fact specially refined light viscosity mineral oils known as �hydrocracked�. These have some advantages over equivalent mineral oils, particularly in lower viscosity motor oils such as 5w-30 or other oils with a low �W� rating such as 5w-50 etc and they cost about 1.5 times more than good quality mineral fractions.

We use several different grades of this base oil, where appropriate. This is the �synthetic� which is always used in cheap oils that are labelled �synthetic�.

Yes it�s a cruel world, you get what you pay for!

Now, you may ask, why are these special mineral oils called �synthetic�?

Well, it was all sorted in a legal battle that took place in the USA about ten years ago. Sound reasons (including evidence from a Nobel Prize winning chemist) were disregarded and the final ruling was that certain mineral bases that had undergone extra chemical treatments could be called �synthetic�.

Needless to say, the marketing executives wet their knickers with pure delight!
They realised that this meant, and still does, that the critical buzz-word �synthetic� could be printed on a can of cheap oil provided that the contents included a few percent of �hydrocracked� mineral oil, at a cost of quite literally a few pence.

So, the chemistry of �synthetics� is complex and so is the politics!

The economics are very simple. If you like the look of a smart well-marketed can with �synthetic� printed on it, fair enough, it will not cost you a lot; and now you know why this is the case.

But, if you drive a high performance car, and you intend to keep it for several years, and maybe do the odd �track day�, then you need a genuine Ester/PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) synthetic oil.

This oil costs more money to buy, because it costs us a lot of money to make, very simply, you always get what you pay for!


Mobil 1 = PAO
Motul = Not all are proper but believe V300 is Ester
Silkolene = All Pro S and R are Ester
Castrol RS = 10w-60 Hydrocracked (SLX 0w-30 PAO)
Millers = Hydrocracked as far as I'm aware
Comma - part of Exxon Mobil = AVOID definately hydrocracked
Shell = Most are hydrocracked, there are some PAO's
Carplan Triple R = Hydrocracked
Fuchs Supersyn SL range = PAO
Total = Some PAO, most hydrocracked
Valvoline = Hydrocracked
Redline = Most Ester
Royal Purple = Most Ester

After reading this, I think I'll go for Mobil 1.

[brad]

After reading this, I think I'll go for Mobil 1.
Which one?

More to the point, why not go with the chemist & use Fuchs? It's one of the OEM VW oils.

[noone]

Thanks for the info, although I'm not sure I understood the outcome of that article...

Whilst the 1.8T is a hi compression engine, I don't think its what I would call high performance... I note that Jmac has mentioned using Penrite which is a good oil, considerably cheaper than most other brand name oils and does not appear on the list.

I've been using Castrol for the last 2 changes, not sure what spending an extra $30 on the oil is going to achieve...

I'd be wary about what someone who works for a brand says about the other brands, they are supposed to support their product. Some good independant testing might be the way to go...

[GTI_PAPA]

I think this post was taken out of context. Nothing sinister, no conspiracy, just facts about "synthetic" oils. After reading/posting this, I went to quite a few manufacturers sites, and the good ones (amsoil, royal purple) make a point of stating "ester" or "PAO" for their full synthetics. I have used amsoil in a previous car, pricey but vgood.

[NickZ]

If its under warranty, and arguably even after warranty, compliance with VW 502 / 505 is a must!

I use Mobil 1 0w-40 (complies with VW 502) and have been very happy with its performance, doing oil changes every 6 months or 7500km whichever comes first.

Cheers
Nick