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Edison
27-10-2006, 03:16 PM
Here is a waste vege oil jetta click here (http://www.veggieavenger.com/SVO-Jetta.php) to go there
...And you should definently go here (http://www.biodieselcommunity.org/)for more on biodiesel too!
http://www.veggieavenger.com/images/pictures/front.jpg
http://www.veggieavenger.com/images/pictures/filterswitchesf.jpg

Oneofthegreats
27-10-2006, 03:23 PM
I forgot all about this, but on the last Melb GTG, I bumped into a bloke who lived down my way(or close enough) & was converting his mk1 GLD(which was a one or two owner & very low k's) to run off vege oil or waist cooking oil. One of the two, but he explained to me how he was going to set it up & it look's sort of similar to this setup.

ausgolfer
27-10-2006, 03:41 PM
I'M EXCITED. I'll take 3 thanks.

Top job.

smithy010
27-10-2006, 04:22 PM
Simple idea- wrapping the fuel filter in copper pipe. It would probably be fairly effective. The only problem is, of course, if it gets too cold and your fuel is too viscous to flow quickly enough along the fuel lines from the tank. Would ideally have a tank heater as well.

GoLfMan
27-10-2006, 08:13 PM
i love it :D more of this stuff i say, i hope it becomes common practice we need more bio-fuels

GoLfMan
27-10-2006, 10:45 PM
i just read some of the stuff and i find it really interesting, i am going to try to make a small test batch this coming holidays, i'll keep you posted!

brackie
28-10-2006, 05:39 AM
I used rubber hose instead of copper and made a cover for it from a section of 5" plastic irrigation pipe lined with insulation. It worked, but the car still had to be started on diesel and run until the water got hot enough for the canola to thin and flow. I poured the virgin canola straight into the tank and the Red Devil ran beautifully and even now still smells like a fish and chip shop. I've disconnected it all now so I can't show you any pictures. Note... I wouldn't contemplate doing this with dirty oil or even "washed" oil, only virgin.

smithy010
29-10-2006, 05:30 PM
Go Golfman! Get into it. It's really quite easy. If you need any advice, use the Journey to forever website, or ask someone on here.
I've got my token little jar of biodiesel sitting on my desk to keep me spurred on to finish this project!

Moonan
02-11-2006, 09:12 PM
Good place for sensible, local advice on biofuels is here:
http://www.biofuelsforum.com/
Good place for VW TDI stuff including bio (if you can cope with the seppos and their religious fervour in everything they do):
http://forums.tdiclub.com/forumdisplay.php?f=52

Be a bit careful of the journeytoforever, it is reputed to be very political...

GoLfMan
02-11-2006, 09:15 PM
Go Golfman! Get into it. It's really quite easy. If you need any advice, use the Journey to forever website, or ask someone on here.
I've got my token little jar of biodiesel sitting on my desk to keep me spurred on to finish this project!
yeh mate im pumped to do it this summer? is it initially hard, which oil did you use for your test batch? im tentative to do a first batch, as i am a visual learner i prefer someone to show me how to do it... but if i am successful at it once i can do it better from then on in. It will be a very nervous moment puttin biodiesel in a fueltank.. i think i might trial it as a substitute for 2 stroke oil first just to see how good my batch is then ill start to blend it into my dads fuel... then hopefully get into making bigger high quality batches from waste oil!
its very exciting i think :)

Moonan
03-11-2006, 05:38 AM
Contact Darren who seems to be a guru at the Melbourne biodiesel club (melbournebiodiesel.org) or through: http://www.biofuelsforum.com/melbourne_biodiesel_users/. You'll get lots of help!

smithy010
03-11-2006, 07:22 AM
I started off with virgin oil, then i went across to waste oil. I'm not in production yet, i have only done test batches, so i am by no means an expert, but you'll get the hang of it.

GoLfMan
03-11-2006, 10:33 AM
Contact Darren who seems to be a guru at the Melbourne biodiesel club (melbournebiodiesel.org) or through: http://www.biofuelsforum.com/melbourne_biodiesel_users/. You'll get lots of help!
will do cheers!

GoLfMan
03-11-2006, 10:33 AM
I started off with virgin oil, then i went across to waste oil. I'm not in production yet, i have only done test batches, so i am by no means an expert, but you'll get the hang of it.
im sure i will fairly quickly :) couldnt be too hard can it?!

Edison
03-11-2006, 02:28 PM
Argh!
My little white car of hope is looking even further away from running, or rather the one I was going to buy from the gold coast secretly is looking further away, the guy selling it rang me to say his other car isn't going too well and he wants to hold onto the golf for a few months or something, and do i want the deposit back... but I wouldn't be surprised if someone else is trying to buy it instead... because he didn't seem to be eager to sell me the two engines in part he has... argh! no fair.

Golf Loon
04-11-2006, 06:10 PM
You cant fanny around with the cheapo bargains. You need to be there quik as with the $$$. Get the money then ring him up and hassle him.

Edison
06-11-2006, 12:06 PM
Richard has, he might give me the engines for free, but wants to hold onto the diesel car for a while while his other is not working....
(sigh)
I degreased the white car of hope, I don't see how the tools I have seen on here can be used to hold the cogs steady while the head is removed, so I think I'll make some clamps at tafe to my own design as i can't understand the other designs...

Golf Loon
06-11-2006, 12:09 PM
Make up some tools, then I`ll come and pull the head off with you.
I thik you need a pin for the pump and a flat bar with a notch out of it???
I`m not a diesle head, so dunno really.

Edison
06-11-2006, 12:12 PM
Hi Matt!
Cool! I am just going to look at it and make a bunch of clamps at tafe to keep both cogs steady, and also something so I can clamp the timing belt itself to stop it coming off the driveshaft at the bottom, as I can't see how to remove the cover, and don't need to I expect... so i'll make stuff at tafe tomorrow.

Golf Loon
06-11-2006, 12:15 PM
We`ll have to take the cover off. I know how to do that.

smithy010
06-11-2006, 03:23 PM
The locking pin is the easiest way to lock the injector pump. It goes through one of the big holes in the pump sproket, which, when at tdc lines up with a hole in the IP bracket...
It's by far the best way, no chance of the clamps falling off or anything.
I made one from a piece of 20mm mild steel stock, which i turned down to the right size (about 15mm), knurled a little end on it, and a hole for a 75x6mm bolt through the middle.

As far as i know the standard cam lock is a piece of steel just the right thickness so it jams in between the head and the end of the camshaft. Also probably the best way to do it.

brackie
06-11-2006, 04:56 PM
I ground my cam lock to size from a piece of 4mm mild steel. It's slghtly too thick (purposely) so I can tap it into the end of the cam.

My ip pin lock has gone missing but Smithy's sizes seem right. Just have a scrounge around in the shed and I'm sure you'll find bits and pieces that'll do the job. Really, it's not rocket science as long as you find TDC and lock everything. BUT make sure you don't get it a tooth out when refitting the belt. Just one tooth makes a huge difference with a diesel, and if you're fitting a new belt you really should re-time the ip.

peter_j_g
06-11-2006, 11:54 PM
My cam lock is a standard door hinge. Steel is 4mm thick, and fits perfectly. Check out any spare hinges you have lying around!

Rgds, Peter

Edison
08-11-2006, 10:57 AM
I made 4 small items at tafe and have put them in place, they are irregular shaped metal peices about 20c size, and about twice the thickness, with a hole through the middle and a nut welded on, a 10mm bolt goes through each one, and they sit behind the big holes in the timing gears, when the bolts are tightened they should hold things steady. I did them finger tight plus one turn, I didn't want to go further because I fear breaking the gear which is easy to do (I broke one in a swift with a screwdriver once)...
I need to drain the radiator next before matt arrives, as I can do that no problems....
If I have time I'll reset the gears to tdc... I think I should be able to...

smithy010
08-11-2006, 08:22 PM
The only problem with your lockin method edison, is that for the one that locks the camshaft sprocket, you're only locking the sprocket and not the shaft itself.... when you refit the timing belt, it's a good idea to loosen the taperlock on the timing belt pulley and then tighten everything up, so when the taperlock is loose, the camshaft is not actually locked at all.... good idea to lock the camshaft in the way that the rest of the blokes have suggested.

Everyone else, correct me if i'm wrong..

Golf Loon
08-11-2006, 09:40 PM
Yeah we need a camshaft locking device edison.

brackie
09-11-2006, 05:34 AM
when you refit the timing belt, it's a good idea to loosen the taperlock on the timing belt pulley and then tighten everything up

If you loosen the sprocket, retighten it with a torwue wrench but give it an extra 10 to 15%. Because there's no woodruff key the sprocket can slip and if it does you wreck your motor. Believe me (I'm speaking from experience...It happened to me when I rebuilt my son's Audi diesel.):(

Edison
09-11-2006, 01:46 PM
The only problem with your lockin method edison, is that for the one that locks the camshaft sprocket, you're only locking the sprocket and not the shaft itself.... when you refit the timing belt, it's a good idea to loosen the taperlock on the timing belt pulley and then tighten everything up, so when the taperlock is loose, the camshaft is not actually locked at all.... good idea to lock the camshaft in the way that the rest of the blokes have suggested.
Youve lost me somewhat, I want to lock both the gear at the top, (on the cam) and the pump gear, and leave the engine in gear (pistons locked). If the topmost gear and the pumpgear all stay the same, and the number of teeth between each on the belt stay the same, how can the camshaft move? I can't understand what you are saying about the camshaft not being locked when the cam(topmost) gear is locked. I'm not doing anything with the small tensioner, I don't see that that one matters, unless I get a new belt..

Anyone have some photos? (off to get my camera)
Ed.

P.s. also for safety if anything goes wrong, I can just mark a particular tooth on each gear and on the belt itself, so long as i can access the bottommost gear.. ?

(went and got the camera)
http://xs208.xs.to/xs208/06454/Imagefvgn.jpg
the nuts are welded to irregular shaped flat pieces of metal, say 4mmx 20mm x34mm ? just to prevent the nuts coming back through the holes, the bolts go right through and press against the car...
http://xs208.xs.to/xs208/06454/Imagewer.jpg
the very bright orange rust is from water left over from degreasing, I don't have a compressor and the car is parked on the street...
http://xs308.xs.to/xs308/06454/Imagee.jpg
Both gears have 2 bolts each incase one moves, one is not in view in the pictures... they are fingertight plus one turn or so...

smithy010
09-11-2006, 02:51 PM
You're right in a way. If you plan on not loosening the camshaft sprocket then your method will work.
however, in order to get a cam belt properly tensioned (not that i'd know what proper tension is, cos i don't have the tool!), but the easiest way is to loosen the cam sprocket while the IP stays locked, then turn the camshaft sprocket till the belt between the camshaft and the IP is tight, and then tighten the top sprocket.
If you're not changing the cam belt, this will be less important, but i'd personally still do it.

The point is, you get my drift about the camshaft itself not being locked, so we understand each other.
;)

Edison
09-11-2006, 03:02 PM
The point is, you get my drift about the camshaft itself not being locked, so we understand each other.
;)
actually no, I think you might be using different names for things?

Golf Loon
09-11-2006, 06:55 PM
We will have to take the camshaft out to machine the head. Surely?

hiho
09-11-2006, 08:45 PM
You can machine the head with the camshaft installed, if you want to machine the heads off some valves...
Edison, if you loosen the bolt on the end of the camshaft and hit the toothed pulley with a mallet it will come off. There is no woodruf key or splines to locate the toothed pulley with respect to the camshaft. It is a smooth taper. Hence the position of the toothed pulley means diddly squat once the pulley has been removed from the camshaft (or if the old belt is replacedwith a new one). Also, to refit the belt, it is much easier to do when the the toothed pulley is removed from the camshaft as this allows for some extra slack in the belt and also for the belt to be positioned accurately on the injector pump and camshaft (before you tighten the cam pulley bolt).
When i did the roadside injector pump replacement i also reset the cam timing by removing the camshaft toothed pulley. It is easy to do and also is the easiest way to reinstate the timing belt.
I didnt have the camshaft locking plate, instead i eyeballed the slot to the machined cam cover surface. I would prefer to have the locking plate though as it provides a positive location to the camshaft when re-torquing the cam pulley bolt.
I hope that this contribution is not confusing
Matt

Edison
10-11-2006, 10:50 AM
You can machine the head with the camshaft installed, if you want to machine the heads off some valves...
I think I can clean up the old gasket by hand, or at least try to first off, because I'm trying to keep things simple. No machining. If it's not (just) the gasket, it'll be so serious as I'll pull out the engine and maybe put in another... [Also the Electric car display is on this SUNDAY at rouse hill in sydney, so maybe I'll get too many ideas if it's more than the gasket]

Edison, if you loosen the bolt on the end of the camshaft and hit the toothed pulley with a mallet it will come off. There is no woodruf key or splines to locate the toothed pulley with respect to the camshaft. It is a smooth taper. Hence the position of the toothed pulley means diddly squat once the pulley has been removed from the camshaft (or if the old belt is replacedwith a new one).
Ahh!!!! now comprehension is dawning, thats what I didn't understand before...

I would prefer to have the locking plate though as it provides a positive location to the camshaft..
That's a part I don't get, I thought the locking plate jams between the top of the engine and the uppermost gear (cam). If the camshaft gear is removed, where is the locking plate and how is it working ?

brackie
10-11-2006, 04:43 PM
The locking plate locks the camshaft (only).
With the crank at TDC and the camshaft locked the valve timing is locked.
The sprocket has no keyway so if you loosen it with the camshaft and crankshaft locked then it can be rotated like a windmill and it will make absolutely no difference to the valve timing.
If the injection pump is also locked then the camshaft sprocket can be loosened and this will allow proper tensioning of the belt.
Again.. I would advise checking the pump timing when the job is complete and more importantly tighten in the camshaft sproket bolt well beyond the specified torque.

hiho
10-11-2006, 06:36 PM
the locking plate is jammed in the slot in the other end of the camshaft and locks the camshaft into the position of TDC.

Golf Loon
10-11-2006, 06:44 PM
So if we take the rocker cover off and jam a piece of meatal in the other end, it will act as a locking plate.

Can we just mark the cam and put it back in the same place?

brackie
10-11-2006, 07:36 PM
If you're removing the cam it can be replaced with the crank @ TDC if you make sure the #1 cylinder valves are fully closed. In this position the slot at the rear of the camshaft will be lined up with the rear of the cylinder head. It's still best to use a metal tab to lock it as that way you know it's exactly right.

Be very careful if you intend skimming the head. I personally wouldn't recommend it as the tolerances are very tight and it means that you will have to measure up the piston head protrusion and buy the correct thickness head gasket to suit. The diesel head is pretty robust and unless it's been overheated generally will not warp. Check it with a straight edge and feeler gauges if unsure.

syncro
11-11-2006, 07:25 AM
Edison,
I have an Autobooks Golf workshop manual for sale (Golf 75-83) that has diesel information. Book is like new. $20 phone 9774 3298. I am at Picnic Point.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2006/11/Books_10-1.jpg

Apparently the pump has to be locked.

Edison
13-11-2006, 10:13 AM
the locking plate is jammed in the slot in the other end of the camshaft and locks the camshaft into the position of TDC.
Ah!!!! now were talking!!! this is the first mention of the cams other end...!


Again.. I would advise checking the pump timing when the job is complete
Whats involved?

skimming the head. I personally wouldn't recommend it
I'll be cleaning it up by hand, I still need to get the gasket, and I want to put in a 4 notch, (it has a 3 at the moment) as I think it will reduced the compression and allow for wacky fuels to be used (you never know what you'll find when your collecting secondhand oil) with lessened risk of damage at the cost of poor(er) economy... what would you think?
Ta, syncro I've got two books at the moment, I'll keep it in mind...

smithy010
13-11-2006, 11:15 AM
Doesn't one of those books show you how to lock the camshaft?

Would've saved us a lot of words!

syncro
13-11-2006, 01:50 PM
Doesn't one of those books show you how to lock the camshaft?

Would've saved us a lot of words!

and how to lock the pump:confused:

smithy010
13-11-2006, 02:25 PM
and how to lock the pump:confused:

Syncro, i think we covered how to lock the pump earlier in this thread.

I'll have to work on my description skills.

Edison
14-11-2006, 06:25 PM
Possibly, there might have been something useable in the manual, but If we disccuss it here it's even faster and better for people who have no manual or people too lazy to turn those heavy heavy pages and risk paper cuts, and I'm going to take pics of the whole operation and post em up in the manuals section, so we can all see it, still, or we can all hold our tounge and log off 8-)
but not as much fun !
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2006/07/groupwavegif-1.jpg

Golf Loon
14-11-2006, 09:07 PM
Lets get the damn head off and end this speculation. Does anyone have a pic with dimensions of the damn locking tool and I`ll make one.

I reckon you are dreaming if you think the head is not warped or cracked. Remember, I have push started you car Edison and have seen the smoke out the back when it starts. Its a lot, even by Diesel standards.

Call me and we`ll arrange a time to rip the head off.

I reckon Syncros Diesel Specific book would be pretty helpfull too ;) And he lives near you.

syncro
15-11-2006, 10:50 AM
Here's the pump lock Matt.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v114/pjlander/PumpLock.jpg

I can't see anything about a cam lock.

I'll photocopy the relevant pages if you like.
Phill

Edison
20-11-2006, 02:30 PM
Lets get the damn head off and end this speculation. Does anyone have a pic with dimensions of the damn locking tool and I`ll make one.


I can make one at tafe easy peasy, I'll make more than one if I have the right dimensions....or a sample.... then you'll have one too



I reckon you are dreaming if you think the head is not warped or cracked.

My head is warped and cracked thats why I'm on the pension... oh wait, you mean the car...


I reckon Syncros Diesel Specific book would be pretty helpfull too ;) And he lives near you.
I shall sneak over in the dead of night....

Golf Loon
20-11-2006, 09:36 PM
Nice pic syncro.
Can you make one of them Edison?

Do we need to line up the camshaft when taking off the head, or just befor reassembly? Does it line up like a Petrol motor?

brackie
21-11-2006, 05:04 AM
Use the locking plate before removing the head. If the flywheel is showing TDC and the cam lobes of #1 cylinder are pointing up slip in the cam locking plate, screw in the pump locking pin and then remove the belt and head.

Edison
21-11-2006, 01:50 PM
Argh! I'm at tafe right now and could run us all up a few, but have no dimensions, or threading details, does anyone have such info?

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2006/08/vwtimingtools-1.jpg

Argh ! I want to make them, I can, easy peasy! but dimensions!!! and tell me if you want some for petrol engines loon, I can run them up at the same time, the plate thingy...
do they use ones like that?

gldgti
30-11-2006, 09:41 AM
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

sorry, ahd to get that out....

CAM LOCK

1) take a piece of 5mm x 50mm bar, cut to about 100mm long
2) use a grinder (bench, whatever) and gently grind one edge to make the bar thinner so that it will JUST fit in the slot at the gearbox end of the camshaft, with engine at TDC #1 and the rocker cover off. use a hammer to gently tap it into place so if its a snug fit you can carry the head around without it falling out!

PUMP LOCK

1) Take a bit of 15mm or thereabouts diameter aluminium pipe, wall thickness about 1.5mm, cut to about 50mm length
2) use a hack saw to cut the one wall of the pipe along its length, so you may then bend it out to be larger diameter
3) bend it out so that it is slightly larger diameter than the locking hole in the pump sprocket.
4) tap it into place with a hammer
5) use a pair of pliers and brute force to remove it (actually very easy)


WHY ALUMINIUM? so if you forget its there, it will shear and not kill your pump when you turn the engine over

get that diesel going again!

gldgti
30-11-2006, 09:46 AM
older petrol ones dont have a cam locking sprocket - its a case of "put it in the right place"....

the cam locking plate need not have the cut out, a simple rectangle will do just fine (as described by me 2 min ago)

the pipe pump locker is safer than a solid thing or a bolt, for the above reason about killing the pump if you forget its there.

Edison
09-12-2006, 10:27 PM
I so won't be forgetting that the pump lock is there, at least not this time around because I'll manually turn the engine with a spanner a few times first, paranoid about the timing,.. maybe a lot lot later when I've done a few I might be that lazy but not first time.
I have bought a diesel truck on ebay for $2000 with new engine and gearbox, 3ton and 3 meter tray and a tiny bit of vic rego left. One of the many things it makes me think about is the possibilty of advertising for old golfs and collecting them (for free) (picture Homer simpson drooling here, arhghgherrr).
I haven't collected quite all of the money yet but i will place a deposit today and look at it this week i hope...
Oh I was santa tonight !! I have been busy with everything (raising money ect). I'll probably get to the poor little white car of hope in early january it looks like.

Golf Loon
10-12-2006, 07:47 AM
Make the two tools Edison, and I`ll come and do that head with you. Syncro gave me some photocopied instructions which will help too :)

Edison
10-12-2006, 11:14 PM
Im off to melbourne after a big truck whose only legitimate purpose for existance (as it's not vw) is carrying golfs. I'll get into it when i'm back 1st thing, I should be able to find stuff round the yard (tafe is closed for the holidays)

Edison
27-12-2006, 08:24 PM
Truck in melbourne fell through,. got one in sydney (furniture truck, no reg) for $1000.
Quite depressed of late. my two cars are both sick, the carbie on the red petrol one is buggered, loon doesn't have one, my poor white car is still a mystery. Except for yesterday...

I went to get into my car and looked down the street at the EXACT moment some stranger started testing the doors of my white diesel, I called the 000 on one phone and got the other camera phone out too. I walked up and got an A 1 quality video of this guy and the cops arrested him, but didn't give him good charges i reckon. He tore off the two quarter panel windows and reached in and opened the doors, and started pulling stuff out piling it on the grass. I have a 3gp video of all this... anyhow, you might imagine how i feel, because i'm too exausted to describe it. I do however think the big boss upstairs like me because if i was a minute earlier or later or more that whole day I would have missed the lot.

brackie
28-12-2006, 06:18 AM
In the right place at the right time, mate. If he ripped off the quarter vents you need to see my repair post ;) . Interior mirror glue is strong enough to stick the pivot pins back on but it won't do it for the catch.

Why are these vandals/thieves targeting Mk1s??

Edison
31-12-2006, 01:03 AM
January 4 2007 10.45pm

Ok, I took off the rocker cover from the little white diesel today, easily done. Now I understand perfectly all the locking stuff that goes on, I rotated the engine with the shifter on the cam sprocket until the cam lock at the other end lined up, it only lines up one way, because it's off-centre... A small marking on the Injector pump Gear came to the top close to a mark on a nearby bracket on the pump. Thats TDC. I can lock up the Injector pump and I wll remove the head as soon as I have tools to remove the head. I won't bother locking the cam, because it's too easy to do by eyesight, and I'd be happier to go through the retiming process instead of making the tool.
The oil is Soooo sooty but of course I can't degrease inside once the cover is off, oh well, it'll have to wait... I was thinking of using 2 upside down u shaped lengths of fuel hose i have to keep the injectors clean when removed.