View Full Version : Disc brake replacement
Brakes had been feeling a little bit under the weather recently. I pulled off the front wheels to do a visual inspection and decided that I could probably do with a new set of pads. I don't have the space or tools at the moment to do it myself, so I took it down to unnamed service place for a second opinion.
I was told after they had a look, that the discs were worn beyond minimum legal and would have to be replaced, along with a new set of pads. He showed me a new set of discs, compared with old, and they did look worn, but ok. Thing is, the car only has 60k on the clock, but was assured that this is standard with the Golf, and discs need replacing around the 60 - 70k mark.
Previous cars I've gone 100k without having to replace discs, and I don't have a particularly aggressive braking style, so was just wondering is 60k - 70k ok for a set of discs with the Golf, or are they spinning some story to me?
Was also a bit curious as to what retail prices are for a disc on a mk4 Golf, just for a comparison?
ranton-inc
09-09-2008, 06:46 AM
Euros seem to wear discs moreso then their japanesey cousins.
In my GTI MKIV i used to replace my Discs once a year and my Pads at least 5 times during the year..
Discs should be cheap as chips as they arent anything speciali dont think i paid more than NZD225 for a paid of plain rotors and NZD275 for a pair of slotties
and about 70 bucks for a pair of mintex or roadhouse pads..
Euros seem to wear discs moreso then their japanesey cousins.
In my GTI MKIV i used to replace my Discs once a year and my Pads at least 5 times during the year..
Discs should be cheap as chips as they arent anything speciali dont think i paid more than NZD225 for a paid of plain rotors and NZD275 for a pair of slotties
and about 70 bucks for a pair of mintex or roadhouse pads..
:eek: You replaced your pads 5 times a year!!! And discs once a year!!
You must be either towing or heavy on the brakes.
D3bb4
09-09-2008, 07:36 AM
Pretty sure my car hasn't had discs or pads replaced with 69k ks on the clock.
Front pads probly replaced judging by thickness. but rotors looks standard.
Problem is; I've priced new DBA slotted.... and they sure like to charge premium for these cars! You can get slotted and drilled for most cars for the $.
Pads aren't heaps though. I thought they needed replacing because they were making noise a while back, and i think i got bendix pads for a decent price. Special order through supercheap, as they don't stock them. Bendix is the only non-OEM brand that doesn't void manufacturer warranty. (that said, I have also been told the OEM ones are dusty but very good)
No457 Snowy
09-09-2008, 08:03 AM
My car is due for it's 60,000km service, the discs look pretty good to me so it will be interesting to see what the outcome is, still plenty of meat left on the original pads as well.
Snowy :)
JustCruisn
09-09-2008, 10:10 AM
I did rears at 71K, rotors and pads $222 OEM
and rear pads again at 98K $102.85 Greenstuff
OEM on rear = 27,000km
Fronts done at 83K slotted rotors and Greenstuff pads $438
OEM pads create lots of dust.
When I had OEM on the rear and Greenstuff on front, the rear wheels had a lot more dust on them, it looked funny cause fronts normally have more dust.
The rotors are soft so that the pads get more bite, mum and dad cars will have harder rotors. WRXs have very soft rotors and have to be replaced with every set of pads.
spritle
09-09-2008, 12:07 PM
On my 2000 Mk4 1.6 manual, I've changed the front rotors and pads, and the rear pads.
Pads and front rotors were done at around 70K kms (probably too many cruises and detours via the snowy mountains on syd-melbourne trips :driver: )
I've done another 40K kms since then and it's looking a lot better that it did with the same mileage, but Seb thinks it'll be due soon.
Replaced the rotors with factory items (at around $200 for the front pair) and EBC blacks (special order via Supercheapauto).
It dusts like OEM's but then I'm doing a lot more commuting and it's only a 1.6 so enthusiasm doesn't actually equal going fast :) :biggrin:
I was told after they had a look, that the discs were worn beyond minimum legal and would have to be replaced, along with a new set of pads. He showed me a new set of discs, compared with old, and they did look worn, but ok. Thing is, the car only has 60k on the clock, but was assured that this is standard with the Golf, and discs need replacing around the 60 - 70k mark.
What is the current thickness & what is the factory minimum? Allow about 1-2mm under your current thickness to machine down to a flat parallell surface. If that brings you under the minimum then you need new rotors. RDAs for the rear of my Mk3.5 were only $45 each at Auto1 in Carlton.
I'd be trying a specialist like Wolfsburg Motors (up near Newtown) or the one on Anzac Pde (near Centenial Park) - I don't know of any around St.George area.
I'd be looking at the upper spec Ferodo pads. EBC are stinky & Bendix are "old fashioned" (IMO).
ranton-inc
09-09-2008, 01:44 PM
:eek: You replaced your pads 5 times a year!!! And discs once a year!!
You must be either towing or heavy on the brakes.
yep no towing.. i just used to drive hard.. it was about 30,000kms a year
Manaz
09-09-2008, 01:45 PM
I'm pretty sure machining only takes a fraction of a millimetre off the discs - I've seen stats on discs where the max and minimum thicknesses are only 2mm different!
I'm pretty sure machining only takes a fraction of a millimetre off the discs - I've seen stats on discs where the max and minimum thicknesses are only 2mm different!
It probably is if you are doing your own discs and are happy to make 3 or 4 small passes to remove the minimum but if your doing a customer car, then you only want to make a heavy truing cut, then a light finish cut & bolt the thing together as quick as you can.
When I was spannering, I didn't even attempt to machine VW discs as they were so thin to start with and rarely machined above the minimum thickness - that was a long time back though. Audi Fox was popular:eek:.
blutopless2
09-09-2008, 04:20 PM
have read over the years that most european cars require disc replacement from around the 40,000 mark.
My nbc is up for another service soon, done around 60,000k's (5 years) so will be interesting to see what the pad/disc wear is like.
No457 Snowy
09-09-2008, 06:37 PM
Just checked my workshop manual and here's some specs for those that haven't got them:
For front pads the new pad thickness is 19.7mm, including backing plate. The minimum thickness wear tolerance for the pads is 7mm, including backing plate.
For rear pads the new pad thickness is 16.9mm including backing plate. The minimum thickness wear tolerance for the pads is 7.5mm including backing plate.
For the front disc rotors new thickness is 25mm and the wear limit is 22mm.
For the rear disc rotors new thickness is 9mm and the wear limit is 7mm.
Mine have the factory wear indicator connections fitted, so the dash warning light should come on when the pads are due.
Cheers,
Snowy :)
ranton-inc
09-09-2008, 06:55 PM
It probably is if you are doing your own discs and are happy to make 3 or 4 small passes to remove the minimum but if your doing a customer car, then you only want to make a heavy truing cut, then a light finish cut & bolt the thing together as quick as you can.
When I was spannering, I didn't even attempt to machine VW discs as they were so thin to start with and rarely machined above the minimum thickness - that was a long time back though. Audi Fox was popular:eek:.
The MKIV R32 has
334 x 32mm discs on the front the over all minimum thickness is 30mm
moniker
09-09-2008, 09:04 PM
Just a thought 'though, why is it bad for discs to get thinner? is it a heat issue or can ventilated discs could get weak if too thin?
ranton-inc
09-09-2008, 09:51 PM
Just a thought 'though, why is it bad for discs to get thinner? is it a heat issue or can ventilated discs could get weak if too thin?
i think its to do with casting surface tensions and heat dissipation ie they are more suseptible to warping etc...
Ahhh...Cheers for all the replies. I guess I was just a bit paranoid (to use a better word) that I was being taken for a ride.
On another note, I found out after my tune last week a few interesting things about my car.
60k and apparently the car was still on the original coolant, and a few other things. All I know is that is running a whole lot better after the service.
D3bb4
10-09-2008, 07:36 AM
Red coolant lasts up to 250 000kms i think the figure is from top of head. :P
Just a thought 'though, why is it bad for discs to get thinner? is it a heat issue or can ventilated discs could get weak if too thin?
Think of the disc rotor as being a heat sink.
Less mass means less ability to absorb or dissipate heat.
Less structural integrity & increased heat increases likelihood of warping.
They can get thin enough that the brake pad can fall out of the guide slots in the caliper.
They can get thin enough that the piston will pop out of the caliper
More heat means increased likelihood of hotspots, cracks and ultimately, structural failure.
gslrallysport
06-11-2008, 01:04 PM
Bendix is the only non-OEM brand that doesn't void manufacturer warranty.
That is definitely NOT true! Why is Bendix any different to any other aftermarket manufacturer? In fact, the exact ACCC ruling is:
"If a part is non-genuine, but is interchangeable with the genuine parts, it could be seen as being fit or appropriate for the purpose and would therefore not void the manufacturer's warranty."
How is that a Bendix only thing? Bendix pads would definitely be in the lower range of quality and performance vs. dollars...
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