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View Full Version : RNS510, Amp & standard speakers.



Logzy
03-04-2008, 08:14 AM
I am no expert here so after alot of reading in the VW Audio lounge i just wanted to confirm what i think i have decided based on what ive read.

I have the RNS-510 in a MK5 GT Sport, no factory amp.

After reading about the MK4 speakers i am presuming the MK5 speakers are pretty good quality and if i add an amp to the system it will give me a big improvement.

My thoughts are to add a 4ch amp that has a pass through (i think thats what its called) so that later i can go out from this amp into another one to run a subwoofer.
I am looking at this amp from Jaycar. (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AA0426&CATID=24&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=595)


Does this sound like an ok setup.?

I have read alot about only running the front speakers through an amp and leaving the rears on the HU but in doing this it would mean that i would need a LOC for the fronts as the RNS-510 would still need to be set to speaker outputs. (Using VAG-COM the RNS-510 can be set to line out outputs)
This would also mean that later when i want to install an amp it would be a little more difficult as i should feed the SW amp from the rear outputs.
Am i correct.

What do you experts think of my very basic idea of the 4ch amp on all 4 speakers.

Thanks guys for your help.

Mr İharisma
03-04-2008, 11:19 AM
Hey dude,

What is going to be your end goal? Do you have a rough budget on how much you want to spend all up?

Personally:
*Jaycar = bang for $$, no great SQ.
*Standard speakers are good, but not that good
*That RNS-510 will have a piss poor output EQ, look at getting a RF 3sixty.1 / 3sixty.2 / JL cleansweep to at least fix the problems over a simple LOC. They will also take your 4ch speaker input and turn them into 6ch pre outs.

Logzy
03-04-2008, 12:19 PM
Hey dude,

What is going to be your end goal? Do you have a rough budget on how much you want to spend all up?

Personally:
*Jaycar = bang for $$, no great SQ.
*Standard speakers are good, but not that good
*That RNS-510 will have a piss poor output EQ, look at getting a RF 3sixty.1 / 3sixty.2 / JL cleansweep to at least fix the problems over a simple LOC. They will also take your 4ch speaker input and turn them into 6ch pre outs.

Basically I'm looking for a bit more sound quality and a bit more volume without distortion.
If i can avoid changing the speakers then i'd like to just cause i CBF'd doing it and i was thinking of installing the amp myself.
If i start looking at speakers etc then i'd probably get a professional install.
Most of the music i play will be MP3's from the RNS510
All up i'd possibly limit my budget to $1000 however this could be flexible.
The RNS510 has to stay.

Whats your reccomendations.?
The JL Cleansweep sounds like a good product. Do i really need it.?

Thanks for your help.

Mr İharisma
03-04-2008, 02:55 PM
Is that $1k including a processor, 4ch amp, sub amp and sub or just the 4ch amp and processor ( and wiring of course ).

MKIVF
03-04-2008, 03:09 PM
Alpine also make the imprint processor.

Logzy
03-04-2008, 04:52 PM
Is that $1k including a processor, 4ch amp, sub amp and sub or just the 4ch amp and processor ( and wiring of course ).

I'd like to think its for all of it but if i need to allow $1200 or so to cover all of it then i will.
What could i get away with bearing in mind that I'm sticking with std speakers.?

I'm trying to limit myself as i've already spent a ****load on this car that i dont even have yet.

Greg Roles
03-04-2008, 06:08 PM
Hey mate, you've got half your car in parts already! :D

I've had some good audio setups for normal people like us using Jaycar stuff in my past.

In my opinion, leave the rears stock, from the headunit. You only hear "fill" from the rear pretty much anyhow.

Spend the time and money on the fronts. Again, I can't advise highly enough replacing JUST the fronts with a decent set of splits, and putting a little dynamat bitumen sheet under each one. Use the stock wires, and just buy a jaycar 2 channel amp to suit the fronts. You don't need huge power to get half decent sound. The audiophiles will disagree, but spend the cash and research on speakers. THEY make the sound.

I have a decent Stinger LOC II and gold / shielded RCA input and output wiring to suit, all in great nick, which you can have. It was from the audio setup I had planned for the Ford, and of no use to me anymore. Will let you swap 2 channel line in to 4 channels out. Yeah yeah you audio types, it won't be SQ quality.... but a wack better than stock!

So you need an amp, some splits and I am happy to give you two woofer suitable squares of dynamat, as I have p-l-e-n-t-y. This will give you a heap of bang for buck, and in my opinion a fine sound. If you do buy that 4 channel amp, you can easily add a sub later on for more punch, and Jaycar have a fabulous 10" for the money ($150). I recently put one of these in a Lancer I fixed up for a quick sale, and it sounded awesome for the cash. Basically sold the car actually!

Easy come in a lot less than a grand.

Mr İharisma
03-04-2008, 06:14 PM
I'd like to think its for all of it but if i need to allow $1200 or so to cover all of it then i will.
What could i get away with bearing in mind that I'm sticking with std speakers.?

I'm trying to limit myself as i've already spent a ****load on this car that i dont even have yet.

lol time to spend some more. Well in that case,

Speaker amp: Jaycar 4x 50WRMS ( you wont need more for the stockies ) $200
Sub amp: Jaycar 2x 150WRMS, 1x 500WRMS $250
Wiring: $75-100 ( I managed to get a wiring kit for 2 amps for $50 shop around )
Sub: $300ish + $50 for a box ( look into the Hertz ES, Oz Vector, DD5xx, Boston G1, Treo SSi etc depends on any limitations or space etc )

So that is about $900. Unfortunately that does leave much for a processor ( which are about $450+ ) however you could get that at a later stage and just use basic LOC for the time being.

The above 4x 50WRMS amp has RCA through ( those pass through things you where talking about ) and it sends a stereo bypass signal through, perfect for the second amp. I actually used that amp for a Mazda 3 and did it the way you are thinking, pretty good result.

Greg Roles
03-04-2008, 06:21 PM
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b259/cogdoc/2008_0403Image0002.jpg

Mr İharisma
03-04-2008, 06:32 PM
Use the stock wires, and just buy a jaycar 2 channel amp to suit the fronts. You don't need huge power to get half decent sound. The audiophiles will disagree, but spend the cash and research on speakers. THEY make the sound.

Yeah I disagree, speakers only reproduce sound which is true. You give a great pair of speakers a crap signal and they are gunna sounds crap... simple :D

Even in something as minor as a sub, I noticed a big big difference going from a Jaycar amp to an Audison. Of course you get the best for your budget ;)

Greg Roles
03-04-2008, 07:09 PM
But you need to remember your level of expectation.

You have high standards, having heard better gear. You are, afterall, an audiophile!

Logzy drives a Holden, and is thus a neanderthal.

It's the old law of diminishing returns. I understand Logzy's question, not being a full on audio freak myself. He wants an improvement over stock, and for the cash, Jaycar will give him exactly that. I've been there and done it twice myself several installs ago, and was happy!

Compared to what you guys dream about, yeah it's crap in comparison, but you're spending a w-h-o-l-e lot more remember.

Logzy
03-04-2008, 07:24 PM
Thanks Greg for the offer of the LOC & advise. Thanks Mr Charisma for the advise.
I'm really undecided how i want to proceed on this project.

I'm now thinking.
1x Jaycar 4x100 Amp (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AA0426&CATID=24&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=595) for all 4 speakers.
Two reasons for this amp.
1. it allows me to upgrade the speakers later and use the same amp.
2. By running all 4 speakers through the amp i wont need a LOC as i can VAG-COM the 510 to low level outputs and when/if i buy the processor I wont have to worry about all 4ch running through the processor but only 2ch going through an amp. Thats if this is a concern.?

1x Jaycar 2x150 Amp (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AA0424&CATID=24&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=595) for a sub.

1x Sub & box, brand undecided.

Wiring to suit above.

Then later i can look at the special processor which i should be able to mount near the amps and basically just plug it in.

This is the hardest decision yet. Which way to go:???:

Does my above theory make sense or am i missing something.

Soundofav6
04-04-2008, 07:33 AM
Your theory is right but I would include the processor first rather than same amount for a sub tho
Personally, I wouldn't think of spending $300 on a sub. perhaps I am missing out ??
But I am way happy with my Rockford 10" P1 for $160.

So .... If I were you I would go for the
*4 channel amp $250
*Rockford processor, ~450
*wiring ~100
*2 sheets of dynamat. ~120
*worry about the sub later. Even a decent 2nd hand one.
Clarion 12" has ones for $50 on sale,

Why, because your goal is "comparatively" better Sound and with a grand budget it's is quite reasonable I reckon. With the processor your music will not only be already nicer but it will be FUNKY, you will be asking "who's you dad now yo! "

Also with this set up it gives you more control EQ wise and when you do run a Sub, simiply reroute the rear speaker off the head unit to the processor, leaving 2 channels bridged from the AMP.

For the dynamat, it works like magic. I would layer on the mounting of the 4 speakers first.

Logzy
04-04-2008, 10:39 AM
Also with this set up it gives you more control EQ wise and when you do run a Sub, simiply reroute the rear speaker off the head unit to the processor, leaving 2 channels bridged from the AMP.

For the dynamat, it works like magic. I would layer on the mounting of the 4 speakers first.

O.K. So it looks like im going for the 4ch amp and the processor.
Youve lost me a bit though with the above quoted comment regarding the reroute the rear speaker off the headunit bit.

I was thinking of running all 4 ch into the processor then into the 4ch amp.
Then later when i want to add a sub i just use the passthrough outputs on the 4ch amp into the new 2ch amp which will drive the sub.

Also what is the dynamat for if I'm not touching the original speakers.? Should i remount the originals using dynamat, is that what you meant.?

Logzy
04-04-2008, 10:49 AM
So now another question.

Which processor is better.??

The RF3SIXTY.1 or the JL CS441dsp??

I notice that the JL has an auto calibration cd that comes with it but the RF has a bluetooth interface to setup.
How hard are these things to set up? I'd be looking for the easiest to setup.
Are there a heap of settings i have to play with to get it sounding right or are they basically plug and play.?

The install is not a problem for me but with the setup i have never done this before so am a bit of a nuffy with it.

EDIT: After reading the instruction manuals on both processors it looks like the JL is easer to set up however it did mention that for better quality their supplied remote volume control should be used instead of my HU volume control.
Is this really an issue. Will i get much hissing at lower volumes.

Soundofav6
04-04-2008, 01:57 PM
Then later when i want to add a sub i just use the passthrough outputs on the 4ch amp into the new 2ch amp which will drive the sub.

Also what is the dynamat for if I'm not touching the original speakers.? Should i remount the originals using dynamat, is that what you meant.?

Some one correct me if i am wrong, If Logzy was to run a 4 channel amp 1 RF processor and 1 Sub. He can bridge the rear channel from the amp to run the sub AND route the Rear speaker off the head unit into directly into the processor, ie by passing the amp ? I think I was told the RF processor doesn;t need RCA.
If this is too confusing forget it... my suggestion is for 1 amp and processor with subwoofer but you want 1 amp, processor and sub amp eventually right ?

ANyways, I am still new to processors, but I know the rockford needs a PDA for the setup Not sure about the JL. Don't know if a laptop would work ?? But if it is bluetooth ie wireless setup it would be so much easier too.

With the dynamat, it's really easy to use. It is improve the bass of the speakers. It dampens the vibration, giving more solid punch for the bass. Usually people do the whole door to have a more quite ride too. It is really easy to use, cut into shape peel the plastic and stick it onto the mounting surface of the speakers. Check out Mr@harisma dynamat JOB. (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/attachment.php?attachmentid=1716&d=1205361333)

zedub
04-04-2008, 03:06 PM
I know nothing about nothing, cept the RF one looks kewl and I'm buyin one :D

It says in the specs you can configure with a PALM PDA, A windows CE PDA or a Windows Laptop. :D (all using bluetooth obviously)

Sweet as :D

Btw I was inspired to do this due to this thread :D.. coz I wanna put a similar crappy all in one head unit in the Ovlov.. (I've got a Clarion DXZ785USB in the Golf so a processor is less critical) as I can't justify spending 3-4k on a decent nav/dvd/etc2 head unit on the car i hardly ever drive.

Mr İharisma
04-04-2008, 06:28 PM
Wow my door is famous.

Umm the RF will except either high level speaker or low level RCA. It has a 150something point auto EQ fixing controlled via a palm which interfaces through bluetooth. If you use all 4 channels from the rear of your stock deck, it actually make 6 preouts:
Front left / right
Rear left / right
Sub / centre

The audiocontrol LC6 I think does it the same. It doesn't have EQ control though. The 3sixty.2 is awsome, 31band EQ, Controllable LP / HP 12db / 24db xovers with multiple points per channel, TA etc etc. The 3sixty.1 or JL will do.

Just a note, Audison is bringing one out as well, the Bit1. I'm sure it will be good ( and $$$ ).

Now if I had say $1400
Processor $500
Front Splits $450
Amp $300
Dynamat $90
Wiring $60

Mr İharisma
04-04-2008, 06:41 PM
It's imbarrassing, I'm 23 but so far on subs:
*First sub cost $100 in a box. Went awesome I thought. Sounded like poo, blew it up.
*Replaced that with a Clarion DVC 12incher. Instant increase in control and SPL, thought it was a great step up, $175. Ported 2cuft.
*Thought it was time to upgrade, looked into and got a Boston 12.5lf. Wanted a small sealed box for the boot, it only needed 1cuft. RRP$699. I couldn't believe the increase in punch, the sub was awesome... until my mate borrowed my car and blew the fashizzle out of the coil. So then...
*I upgraded to the Boston G5 124, was offered it at cost price. RRP $799 at the time. Straight away the SQ was brilliant. I only wish that I had better fronts at the time to keep up. Plays 25Hz like its no problem, 3inch excursion helped. Did lack the punch I liked about the 12.5lf, was great firing it up and asking people what they though was back there, some guy thought there was 2x 15's lol. AAMI blew that one up so then...
*I auditioned and fell in love with the Oz ME 12.2. Keeping with the small box theme it fitted the bill perfectly. Has the punch of the older 12.5lf plus the rumble of the G5. What more can you ask for. ATM I wouldn't have anything else. RRP $699.

Sad I know....

Greg Roles
04-04-2008, 06:50 PM
Dude, it's a good effort in the time! My first car subs were purchased in 1986 and to my knowledge were pretty much the first subs anywhere. I bought them from the owner of one of Brisbane's bigger audio shops these days, and he only had the one set he imported at that time. A pair of 10" kenwoods. I was just SO cool in my mazda.

I blew them up on "Underneath the radar" by Underworld. Still laugh when I hear that song.....

I guess running them off a clarion equaliser free air into the boot wasn't the smartest move.:D

Greg Roles
04-04-2008, 06:51 PM
What is really funny though, is Logs started on here looking for a basic install, and stereo-itis has struck another person.....;)

Mr İharisma
04-04-2008, 06:56 PM
Dude, it's a good effort in the time! My first car subs were purchased in 1986 and to my knowledge were pretty much the first subs anywhere. I bought them from the owner of one of Brisbane's bigger audio shops these days, and he only had the one set he imported at that time. A pair of 10" kenwoods. I was just SO cool in my mazda.

I blew them up on "Underneath the radar" by Underworld. Still laugh when I hear that song.....

I guess running them off a clarion equaliser free air into the boot wasn't the smartest move.:D

Lol there is that splits second when you know you have blown a sub, nothing is quite the same lol. I am going to out do everyone!! I blew up a Boston G5 playing R.E.M..... anyone care to challenge that lol??

I hate car stereo's, no matter how much you do, there is always something else.... :D

Logzy
04-04-2008, 07:28 PM
What is really funny though, is Logs started on here looking for a basic install, and stereo-itis has struck another person.....;)

FARK, tell me about it.
It all gets so complicated and I'm now totally confused.:?

Dont give me any more sugestions please, just tell me if this will work or not.;)
4ch from factory HU into JL processor.
from JL processor into 4ch amp.
out from 4ch amp to 4ch speakers.

then for sub,
use pass through from 4ch amp into 2ch amp
out from 2ch amp into subwoofer.

or for sub,
use sub out from JL processor into 2 ch amp then out to sub

This sounds good to me and non confusing.
Please give me a YES or NO:confused:

zedub
04-04-2008, 07:33 PM
What is really funny though, is Logs started on here looking for a basic install, and stereo-itis has struck another person.....;)

If your referring to me, stereoitis already struck hard, and I already had plans to do the stereo on the ovlov just hadn't seen those processors before so I kept putting it off (really can't justify the eclipse AVN6000 that I want)

The golf has a small install already (DXZ785USB + blt370 to 2 amps, clarion 4ch & audison Srx1, CD Technologies splits in the front, Clarion SRS1686 splits in the rear and a Rockford Fosgate Punch 10" - p310d4 sub)

I already plan to upgrade the clarion amp to an Audison in the golf, so i just need to build the rest of the system around a crappy fleebay all in one and some semi decent splits...

Mr İharisma
04-04-2008, 08:20 PM
FARK, tell me about it.
It all gets so complicated and I'm now totally confused.:?

Dont give me any more sugestions please, just tell me if this will work or not.;)
4ch from factory HU into JL processor.
from JL processor into 4ch amp.
out from 4ch amp to 4ch speakers.

then for sub,
use pass through from 4ch amp into 2ch amp
out from 2ch amp into subwoofer.

or for sub,
use sub out from JL processor into 2 ch amp then out to sub

This sounds good to me and non confusing.
Please give me a YES or NO:confused:

Lol thats what we have trying to tell you. The top option of using the RCA through the 4ch will work well if you use the 2x 150WRMS jaycar for the sub as the amp will have the external sub control knob ( to control the sub ).

JL or RF processor will be the question.....

Mr İharisma
04-04-2008, 08:23 PM
If your referring to me, stereoitis already struck hard, and I already had plans to do the stereo on the ovlov just hadn't seen those processors before so I kept putting it off (really can't justify the eclipse AVN6000 that I want)

The golf has a small install already (DXZ785USB + blt370 to 2 amps, clarion 4ch & audison Srx1, CD Technologies splits in the front, Clarion SRS1686 splits in the rear and a Rockford Fosgate Punch 10" - p310d4 sub)

I already plan to upgrade the clarion amp to an Audison in the golf, so i just need to build the rest of the system around a crappy fleebay all in one and some semi decent splits...

Yeah even an Audison SRx4 will provide ample power for a decent set of splits and you can still power the rear Clarion splits.

Soundofav6
04-04-2008, 09:10 PM
hahahha .. Logzy. the way you are going ...good luck stayin on budget. Be firm when you go in the shop.
I think you should just hand your shopping list to the sales guy and wait at the registers. Otherwise the sales guy's name is going on the wall for employee of the month for sure. Be very careful of his upsales. j:

zedub
04-04-2008, 09:16 PM
nice... that was exactly the amp I was planning to put in... nice to see it will do the job

(and yeah, I'm powering both sets of splits now, that config wont change)

Soundofav6
04-04-2008, 09:21 PM
Yeah even an Audison SRx4 will provide ample power for a decent set of splits and you can still power the rear Clarion splits.

We have member here that runs this exact set up. It is really nice SQ is good, build quality is very refined. I totally wouldn't mind it at all.

Soundofav6
04-04-2008, 09:29 PM
FARK, tell me about it.
It all gets so complicated and I'm now totally confused.:?

Dont give me any more sugestions please, just tell me if this will work or not.;)
4ch from factory HU into JL processor.
from JL processor into 4ch amp.
out from 4ch amp to 4ch speakers.

then for sub,
use pass through from 4ch amp into 2ch amp
out from 2ch amp into subwoofer.

or for sub,
use sub out from JL processor into 2 ch amp then out to sub

This sounds good to me and non confusing.
Please give me a YES or NO:confused:


Answer is Yes. I see what y ou are asking, surely have the subwoofer signal processed as well.

When you get the products literally draw out the diagram with +- for each of the speakers to the most minuite detail before start. It will get confusing and you may get side tracked. Perhaps post the diagram here as well.

zedub
04-04-2008, 09:46 PM
awesome.. now to find an audison srx4 :D...

and hide it from da missus :D

Logzy
05-04-2008, 08:52 AM
Lol thats what we have trying to tell you. The top option of using the RCA through the 4ch will work well if you use the 2x 150WRMS jaycar for the sub as the amp will have the external sub control knob ( to control the sub ).

JL or RF processor will be the question.....

Cool, see i told you i was a nuffy when it comes to this.
Im thinking of the JL processor just for its easy setup.
I dont need the bluetooth interface of the RF and i dont have or want a palm device to configure it.
Thanks for your help.

Mr İharisma
05-04-2008, 09:24 AM
awesome.. now to find an audison srx4 :D...

and hide it from da missus :D

Do it. You should not hide all the beautiful things in this world... sexy Italians should be out for all to see. :D

Mr İharisma
05-04-2008, 09:28 AM
Cool, see i told you i was a nuffy when it comes to this.
Im thinking of the JL processor just for its easy setup.
I dont need the bluetooth interface of the RF and i dont have or want a palm device to configure it.
Thanks for your help.

There we go:
JL processor
Jaycar 4x 100WRMS
Jaycar 2x 150WRMS
Sub... unknown :rolleyes:

Wiring.. now you will only need a single 4ga wiring for both amps as together they will only pull 110A max and a 4ga cable can handle 150A. From there spliting the 4ga via a distro into 2 ga will do the job perfectly. 3 pairs of decent RCA's, some 8ga earthing, trigger wiring and speaker wire will be enough to complete the set up.

zedub
05-04-2008, 09:51 AM
Do it. You should not hide all the beautiful things in this world... sexy Italians should be out for all to see. :D

LOL :D... I was referring to hiding the purchase, not the amp :D


There we go:

Wiring.. now you will only need a single 4ga wiring for both amps as together they will only pull 110A max and a 4ga cable can handle 150A. From there spliting the 4ga via a distro into 2 ga will do the job perfectly. 3 pairs of decent RCA's, some 8ga earthing, trigger wiring and speaker wire will be enough to complete the set up.

You do mean splitting 4GA to 2x 8GA don't you... (its obvious you know what your talking about, so its obviously a typo.. just want to make sure its clear)

Mr İharisma
05-04-2008, 09:53 AM
LOL :D... I was referring to hiding the purchase, not the amp :D

You do mean splitting 4GA to 2x 8GA don't you... (its obvious you know what your talking about, so its obviously a typo.. just want to make sure its clear)

Haha thanks dude, I'm bloody usless lol. Yes take your 8ga and split it into 0ga... ha ( no-one try that please!! ) ;)

Soundofav6
05-04-2008, 01:16 PM
Wiring.. now you will only need a single 4ga wiring for both amps as together they will only pull 110A max and a 4ga cable can handle 150A. From there spliting the 4ga via a distro into 2 ga will do the job perfectly. 3 pairs of decent RCA's, some 8ga earthing, trigger wiring and speaker wire will be enough to complete the set up.




You do mean splitting 4GA to 2x 8GA don't you... (its obvious you know what your talking about, so its obviously a typo.. just want to make sure its clear)


thats would have been an evil advice. hahah

General question and a bit of hijacking here... ;)
When you split from 4G to 2 X 8G. The grounding must be 4 G as well right!
Also the grounding for the 2 amp should not be grounded on same spot right ?

Mr İharisma
05-04-2008, 02:16 PM
thats would have been an evil advice. hahah

General question and a bit of hijacking here... ;)
When you split from 4G to 2 X 8G. The grounding must be 4 G as well right!
Also the grounding for the 2 amp should not be grounded on same spot right ?

No not really. In general, whatever size cable comes in as power, should go out as the earth on the amp. Fitting a bigger earth is not going to hurt but it will be a waste of time. I remember the old Jaycar 2x150WRMS I had a max current draw of 56A. Now I was never really going to push that for SPL burps so I just ran 8ga power / ground which supports about 55A.

My amps are grounded in the same spot, in the old car they where grounded in different spots ( I do usually ground them in different spots especially if you are running big high current amp, I'm not as the Audisons only pull 35-50A for both amps and make 750WRMS :D:D ). Doesn't really matter, it is important to check you battery strap ( the cable that runs from the neg terminal of the battery ) and make sure it is tight. As a rule of thumb I like to run the same ga earthing cable from the battery to the chassis as the power cable. Now obvioulsy a earthing kits steps it up a notch, but you will find with a larger current draw on your car, a simple earthing upgrade will help. Just make sure you strip the paint back wherever you attach it to increase contact.

Greg Roles
05-04-2008, 10:14 PM
You realise Logs was all happy and content till you started on the wires.....:D

Logs, I have a car length of used but fine red 4 ga I don't need. Big wire is expensive!!

Jaymz
06-04-2008, 09:33 AM
I am no expert here so after alot of reading in the VW Audio lounge i just wanted to confirm what i think i have decided based on what ive read.

I have the RNS-510 in a MK5 GT Sport, no factory amp.

Logs, i have a curve ball for ya. You do have a factory amp, its under the passenger seat.

When i replaced the head unit to the Kenwood we used the factory wiring and kept it conected to the factory amp. The processing power of the Kenwood has transformed the SQ.
I had the Qld Kenwood rep come to me to set up the EQ and he was very impressed in how the factory gear handled itself, saying it only really needs some more bottom end with a 10 or 12" sub, with an amp.

Good luck with it buddy, ive done my fair share of big stereos and its always fun pulling a car apart to do all the wiring, not!:)

Logzy
06-04-2008, 02:39 PM
Logs, i have a curve ball for ya. You do have a factory amp, its under the passenger seat.


Now youre really getting me excited. Are you sure i do.
I looked into this by looking at the brochure for the GT Sport which is within the standard Golf brochure and it didnt make any mention of it.

Knowing that the GTI's have the factory amp under the seat i then looked at the GTI brochure and saw there is a clear difference with the specs on the Audio which specifically says in the brocure about the 250w amp. This is what led me to believe that us GT Sport guys miss out on the amp.

Mr İharisma
06-04-2008, 04:07 PM
Now youre really getting me excited. Are you sure i do.
I looked into this by looking at the brochure for the GT Sport which is within the standard Golf brochure and it didnt make any mention of it.

Knowing that the GTI's have the factory amp under the seat i then looked at the GTI brochure and saw there is a clear difference with the specs on the Audio which specifically says in the brocure about the 250w amp. This is what led me to believe that us GT Sport guys miss out on the amp.

I would still get the Jaycar, get it all in and WHEN you decide to upgrade your fronts, you will be sent and ready! :)

Jaymz
06-04-2008, 07:39 PM
Now youre really getting me excited. Are you sure i do.
I looked into this by looking at the brochure for the GT Sport which is within the standard Golf brochure and it didnt make any mention of it.

Knowing that the GTI's have the factory amp under the seat i then looked at the GTI brochure and saw there is a clear difference with the specs on the Audio which specifically says in the brocure about the 250w amp. This is what led me to believe that us GT Sport guys miss out on the amp.

Yeh its there in mine so yours should be no different. After hearing a few GTI's, mine with the Kenwood H/U definately keeps up, SQ dare i say it, might actually be better.
The standard woofers would move minimal air & would be lucky if they ever pushed 90db, (about where a motor mower is) so if you want ground shattering doof doof get a sub or two up ya!
S**t i'll add a sub at some time but with a decent EQ the front stage is actually quite good for a stock system.
Happy to let ya have a listen to mine

Logzy
07-04-2008, 12:21 PM
Is the factory amp receiving speaker level inputs or line level inputs.?
I can VAG-COM the RNS-510 to output either.

Jaymz
07-04-2008, 09:07 PM
Is the factory amp receiving speaker level inputs or line level inputs.?
I can VAG-COM the RNS-510 to output either.

Not sure, haven't got one of those fancy toys....yet:)

Mr İharisma
07-04-2008, 09:31 PM
Meh, if it is a 250W amp running all the speakers you will only really end up with about 40WRMS per channel and probably bugger all S/N, Damping, Slew, Ch sep etc.

Is it a Philips item do you know?

Logzy
08-04-2008, 07:06 AM
Not sure, haven't got one of those fancy toys....yet:)

Youre welcome to use mine, bit of a drive though.:D
I'll be like a kid on christams day tomorrow, not knowing what to play with first.

Jaymz
08-04-2008, 07:01 PM
Youre welcome to use mine, bit of a drive though.:D
I'll be like a kid on christams day tomorrow, not knowing what to play with first.

Ha ha ha it would be a great drive though. You know the real downside of having a car that can get 1000+k's out of a tank on the open road? Having to stop all the time cos the missus needs to p**j:

Logzy
15-04-2008, 07:42 AM
Yeh its there in mine so yours should be no different. After hearing a few GTI's, mine with the Kenwood H/U definately keeps up, SQ dare i say it, might actually be better.
The standard woofers would move minimal air & would be lucky if they ever pushed 90db, (about where a motor mower is) so if you want ground shattering doof doof get a sub or two up ya!
S**t i'll add a sub at some time but with a decent EQ the front stage is actually quite good for a stock system.
Happy to let ya have a listen to mine

Well this is very interesting.
No amp under my passenger seat.
How did you manage to score one.??:?

Greg Roles
16-04-2008, 05:21 PM
Don't fret mate, none in mine either.

I guess they looked at the customer, and figured the ghey looking guys got an amp for their scissor sisters, and the V8 blokes got none for their AC/DC.

Greg Roles
16-04-2008, 05:22 PM
Not sure, haven't got one of those fancy toys....yet:)

I have one ghey boy:D