Arteon Brake upgrade

[BO11OS]

Anybody running this caliper / 380mm disc combo on there Arteon 20in rims?

https://hp.net.au/home/product/racingline-stage-3-forged-monoblock-full-brake-assembly-kit-355mm-vwr650001/?attribute_colours=GLOSS+BLACK

[Vedi]

A front brake upgrade would be a nice addition.

A consideration would be if the 20 inch rosario wheels had enough clearance for the big Brembo style calipers. I think wheel spacers are technically illegal in NSW? Someone here should know more about if that is true or not.

You might find more 370mm kits around, as a lot of the upgraded VW and Audi models run them (including the RS range). As a price guide Cupra AU are charging $4.1k for the factory 4 pot Brembo front upgrade (370mm).

Very interested to know how you go.

[dairyfloss]

I'm quite happy with the stock brake performance (MY18 model), but I don't like the look of the exposed calipers on them... can I piggyback this to ask if anyone knows whether there is a decent - ideally OEM VW R model - set of caliper covers in Blue or Red (or something else other than silver) that suits the stock type with 20" Rosarios?

[BO11OS]

Vedi, Still looking at this stage as no one has anything in stock, for the money they want I don't see a 6k benefit but if we get around 370 to 380 kws at the wheels i'll prob need something better to slow th is bad boy down.

Dairyfloss, I have seen on some Gold R's they have an R calliper not sure if it is 4 or 6 pot though & I think maybe only in America not sure.

[Guest001]

A front brake upgrade would be a nice addition.

A consideration would be if the 20 inch rosario wheels had enough clearance for the big Brembo style calipers. I think wheel spacers are technically illegal in NSW? Someone here should know more about if that is true or not.

You might find more 370mm kits around, as a lot of the upgraded VW and Audi models run them (including the RS range). As a price guide Cupra AU are charging $4.1k for the factory 4 pot Brembo front upgrade (370mm).

Very interested to know how you go.

Spacers are illegal in ANY State in AUS unless fitted at the factory (Porsche)maybe

[nermal]

Anybody running this caliper / 380mm disc combo on there Arteon 20in rims?

https://hp.net.au/home/product/racingline-stage-3-forged-monoblock-full-brake-assembly-kit-355mm-vwr650001/?attribute_colours=GLOSS+BLACK


The rattling and squealing coming from my aftermarket pads (that I didn't fit) were driving me nuts, so I took my Arteon up the road into Harding Performance this morning - even got to meet Guy Harding!

They measured the 380mm Racingline Stage 3 template against my 20" Rosarios wheel and so far it's looking promising. The funny thing is that the 345mm Stage 2 template (that I originally went in for) didn't fit - based on the concave shape of the wheel "spokes". The wheels have better caliper clearance further from the hub.

It's booked in for next week to try with the real thing. If it works out, I'll be driving out with the 380mm Stage 3 brake kit. Will post results next week.

54223

[Vedi]

t's booked in for next week to try with the real thing. If it works out, I'll be driving out with the 380mm Stage 3 brake kit. Will post results next week.

Sounds excellent, really looking forward to seeing some pictures when it's done.

[amunra]

replied to wrong guy

[amunra]

Vedi, Still looking at this stage as no one has anything in stock, for the money they want I don't see a 6k benefit but if we get around 370 to 380 kws at the wheels i'll prob need something better to slow th is bad boy down.

Dairyfloss, I have seen on some Gold R's they have an R calliper not sure if it is 4 or 6 pot though & I think maybe only in America not sure.

just my personal opinion, golf R oem calipers are underrated they just come with average pads and discs from oem.. but still do a decent job for a certain time then start to fail quickly.

consider getting dba 4000 rotors (350 - 450) and dba xtreme xp orange / XP650red pads(think they are the same from my research... same product codes.. same heat threshold specs.. )... going to get a much better result over oem and might be all you need really for 500 - 600 instead of 6k

[nermal]

just my personal opinion, golf R oem calipers are underrated they just come with average pads and discs from oem.. but still do a decent job for a certain time then start to fail quickly.

consider getting dba 4000 rotors (350 - 450) and dba xtreme xp orange / XP650red pads(think they are the same from my research... same product codes.. same heat threshold specs.. )... going to get a much better result over oem and might be all you need really for 500 - 600 instead of 6k

Thanks, the DBA pads/rotors are an interesting option and may be a good temporary plan B if the stage 3 brakes don't fit, though fitment is looking good so far =)

I was also looking at ordering some Brembo 345mm (4Pot) Porsche Macan or Audi RS options online, but my long-term plan was to go 380mm Stage 3 eventually anyway. The Golf R (2 pot) calipers were also a consideration, but there wasn't too much of a price difference for the 4pot options - especially given the addition €430 in shipping. Here's the site I was looking at: Vw Arteon Big Brake Kits (https://www.killerbrakes.com/product-category/volkswagen-brakes/vw-arteon-brakes/vw-arteon-big-brake-kits/?orderby=price&paged=1)

[amunra]

Thanks, the DBA pads/rotors are an interesting option and may be a good temporary plan B if the stage 3 brakes don't fit, though fitment is looking good so far =)

I was also looking at ordering some Brembo 345mm (4Pot) Porsche Macan or Audi RS options online, but my long-term plan was to go 380mm Stage 3 eventually anyway. The Golf R (2 pot) calipers were also a consideration, but there wasn't too much of a price difference for the 4pot options - especially given the addition €430 in shipping. Here's the site I was looking at: Vw Arteon Big Brake Kits (https://www.killerbrakes.com/product-category/volkswagen-brakes/vw-arteon-brakes/vw-arteon-big-brake-kits/?orderby=price&paged=1)

dont u guys have golf r brakes as standard?

[nermal]

dont u guys have golf r brakes as standard?

I think the rotors are the same, but the Arteon calipers are single piston, where the (new) Golf ones are 2pot - tho I could be wrong

54224

[amunra]

I think the rotors are the same, but the Arteon calipers are single piston, where the (new) Golf ones are 2pot - tho I could be wrong

54224

interesting. thought it was the same gear as the golf r... thats a shame for arteon drivers if VW are cheaping out a bit.

audi TTS brakes are like golf r brakes but lighter...... if u can find them..

otherwise i think 2nd hand 4pots (porsche audi) off a wreck are probably the best buy if ur gonna replace the calipers... otherwise just replace the disc and pads like (dba4000 and dba xp) even on a single pot should be good with stage 1 - 3 (depending on what ur doing regularly).

why ur considering stage 3 brake kit on a stage 1 car..... only if ur going to do laps and laps at a circuit and regularly... u might regret ur purchase very quickly.



P.S after doing some reading online they are the same brake calipers as golf r.. open to being corrected if someone can prove that.

[nermal]

why ur considering stage 3 brake kit on a stage 1 car..... only if ur going to do laps and laps at a circuit and regularly... u might regret ur purchase very quickly.

Stage 2 kit is currently on order (arriving from UK in a few months) and plan to take it to stage 3 sometime after that.



P.S after doing some reading online they are the same brake calipers as golf r.. open to being corrected if someone can prove that.

Good to know, thanks for the clarification.

[amunra]

Stage 2 kit is currently on order (arriving from UK in a few months) and plan to take it to stage 3 sometime after that.



Good to know, thanks for the clarification.

discs and pads will be more than fine for whatever your going to be using for. (unless you a professional circuit driver .. specifically driving ur arteon).. .. worst case u eat a bit more pad on spirited driving and have to replace a little bit sooner.. pretty economical for a level performance probably more than u need...... aslong as they dont fall apart on u at high temps / load which very well can happen with the OEM then you are getting a benefit.

if ur getting stage 2 calipers then u most definately dont need stage 3 calipers ..

[nermal]

if ur getting stage 2 calipers then u most definately dont need stage 3 calipers ..

Unfortunately, the VWR stage 2 calipers don't fit our 20" wheels (I was originally considering these). The spokes have a concave shape, but don't have the clearance for the wider calipers near the hub for 345mm rotors - so, ironically the 380mm fit (just), but the 345mm don't.

The manufacturer provides printable templates that you can use to measure brake fit/clearance against the wheel. I'll find out next week for sure.

[amunra]

Unfortunately, the VWR stage 2 calipers don't fit our 20" wheels (I was originally considering these). The spokes have a concave shape, but don't have the clearance for the wider calipers near the hub for 345mm rotors - so, ironically the 380mm fit (just), but the 345mm don't.

The manufacturer provides printable templates that you can use to measure brake fit/clearance against the wheel. I'll find out next week for sure.

so what stage 2 kit calipers did u order from the uk?

[nermal]

so what stage 2 kit calipers did u order from the uk?

Sorry for the confusion, I'm waiting on Stage 2 tuning parts from the UK (ceramic-coated downpipe, intercooler, hoses etc).

[amunra]

Sorry for the confusion, I'm waiting on Stage 2 tuning parts from the UK (ceramic-coated downpipe, intercooler, hoses etc).

fair enough.. after speaking to a brakes specialist i think the conclusion was that big brake is only needed if ur doing extended circuit work (lap on lap .. chasing times)... otherwise discs and pads go well if "stopping power" is all ur after.

after checking out the prices of the dba xp orange seems like they have gone up quite a bit since i bought mine... nearly $100 a set... i think at the $200+ range you can get pads with even higher heat tolerance for extended circuit (if thats what anyone really needs).

otherwise orange is good for street, spirited / performance.

i was advised the rs3 brake upgrade isnt even that great over the golf r brakes for circuit work and not really worth doing.

hope that gives u guys something to consider before dropping 4 - 6k+ on big brakes and install.

[Ozsko]

I doubt any upgrade will be worth it at all even on a circuit. As someone with a bit of experience with circuit racing unless the driver is coached in how to brake on a circuit they can't do it because the whole thing is counter intuitive.

[ope126]

interesting. thought it was the same gear as the golf r... thats a shame for arteon drivers if VW are cheaping out a bit.

audi TTS brakes are like golf r brakes but lighter...... if u can find them..

otherwise i think 2nd hand 4pots (porsche audi) off a wreck are probably the best buy if ur gonna replace the calipers... otherwise just replace the disc and pads like (dba4000 and dba xp) even on a single pot should be good with stage 1 - 3 (depending on what ur doing regularly).

why ur considering stage 3 brake kit on a stage 1 car..... only if ur going to do laps and laps at a circuit and regularly... u might regret ur purchase very quickly.



P.S after doing some reading online they are the same brake calipers as golf r.. open to being corrected if someone can prove that.

@amunra - it appears you have corrected yourself and yes, to confirm the Golf R / Superb 206TSI 4x4 / Passat 206TSI R-Line / AUDI S3 / Tiguan 162TSI all run identical (Front) 340x30mm vented rotors with the same sized single piston calipers, however the Golf R / AUDI S3 have a cover plate on the caliper, purely a decorative plate.

And no, the AUDI TTRS front calipers are NOT like Golf R Calipers, they are a 4 piston caliper.

The new MK8 Golf R has 357x34mm rotors with newly designed 2 piston calipers.

I personally run the following on my ŠKODA Superb 206TSI 4x4:
- Clubsport S (semi 2 piece drilled) front rotors - Part No. 5Q061301C
- Clubsport S front pads - Part No. 5Q0698151L

This combination is excellent, a vast improvement over standard.

54225

[amunra]

[QUOTE=ope126;1337952]

And no, the AUDI TTRS front calipers are NOT like Golf R Calipers, they are a 4 piston caliper. [QUOTE]

thats great, i didnt say ttrs.. i said TTS.. they ARE like golf r brakes but lighter.

[ope126]

[QUOTE=ope126;1337952]

And no, the AUDI TTRS front calipers are NOT like Golf R Calipers, they are a 4 piston caliper. [QUOTE]

thats great, i didnt say ttrs.. i said TTS.. they ARE like golf r brakes but lighter.

Woops mate, my bad!!!
I added an "R", what I meant to say was AUDI TTS (as you clearly said...)

And no, the AUDI TTS front calipers are NOT like Golf R Calipers, they are a 4 piston caliper.
Please refer to the following link; Everything You Need to Know about the TTS Front Brake Upgrade for Mk7s - Articles - Deutsche Auto Parts (https://www.shopdap.com/blog/post/everything-you-need-to-know-about-the-tts-front-brake-upgrade-for-mk7s.html)

[amunra]

[QUOTE=amunra;1337954][QUOTE=ope126;1337952]

And no, the AUDI TTRS front calipers are NOT like Golf R Calipers, they are a 4 piston caliper.

Woops mate, my bad!!!
I added an "R", what I meant to say was AUDI TTS (as you clearly said...)

And no, the AUDI TTS front calipers are NOT like Golf R Calipers, they are a 4 piston caliper.
Please refer to the following link; Everything You Need to Know about the TTS Front Brake Upgrade for Mk7s - Articles - Deutsche Auto Parts (https://www.shopdap.com/blog/post/everything-you-need-to-know-about-the-tts-front-brake-upgrade-for-mk7s.html)

ok mate.. they are the same size and basically same caliper off the same family of cars... only 4 pot and lighter (variation? sort of like a golf r and golf gti)... u could say they are a slightly "Better" or track oriented version of the golf r brakes if you really want to get into the nitty gritty.. although to the layman or woolworths andretti im sure they would probably be the same.

my point was... its just another option for anyone out there for anyone who might be interested and comes across a pair without spending up to get big brakes.

i see u boys are just chomping at the bit to have another Its not this and Its not that Debate... just lay off it champ that was done 2 weeks ago.

[amunra]

for anyone interested. a link to a user review / feedback on TTS calipers (4 piston , lighter) for track use .

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/tt-mk3-discussion-207/tts-brakes-short-story-2969145/

what it shows is that most of these oem mqb brakes (even up to rs3 4 pot) are not that great on extended / circuit use.. whether they are 1 or 4 pot...

the bite and durability / heat tolerance might be better with upgraded pads and discs (definately on street and spirited) but it wont be help much more in the long run after beating on the brakes at a circuit with high temps..


just something to think about for anyone wanting to 'Upgrade' their brakes.. it might not really give you much cost / benefit for what your doing over uprated discs and pads.

[Ozsko]

[QUOTE=ope126;1337955][QUOTE=amunra;1337954]

i see u boys are just chomping at the bit to have another Its not this and Its not that Debate... just lay off it champ that was done 2 weeks ago.

Nothing wrong with upgrading for track work IF you know how to apply the upgrades properly when approaching the first corner. The glib idea it is an easy fix for track work is not correct as using the brakes as you would on the street is the wrong way to go about braking on the track for maximum return on your investment.

[amunra]

[QUOTE=amunra;1337958][QUOTE=ope126;1337955]

Nothing wrong with upgrading for track work IF you know how to apply the upgrades properly when approaching the first corner. The glib idea it is an easy fix for track work is not correct as using the brakes as you would on the street is the wrong way to go about braking on the track for maximum return on your investment.



very true. my point exactly is if ur doing track work and think ur gonna need BBK go ahead.. might be a worthwhile investment in your enjoyment / day if its what u like doing.. everyone knows track work is expensive business to do properly.. unfortunately going up 1/2 step to TTS or 1 step to TTRS really isnt gonna add much on the daily driving level for the Time / Money spent... and on a circuit level seems like a mirage upgrade.... doesnt do what u think over the oem caliper.... maybe only for a small period of time before it fails just the same.


did the guys TTS pads fail on the track coz that guy doesnt know how to drive and ate them on the 1st corner ??.. u cant be 100% sure... i would put most of the guys on this forum in that basket of going to eat their pads on the 1st or 2nd corner ..

To me theres the highest chance they failed after a session of hard driving and hard braking and lowest chance he ate them on the 1st corner.. To put it simply... the TTS caliper with OEM pads and discs are not fit for proper track use... end of story

.. would they have faired better with uprated pads and discs on in the same track driving conditions. who knows

.. they may not have gone down to the backing plate but could be close to changing out.... they are the same/similar size as GOLF R brakes just 4 pot... i really doubt a little bit of spread out friction over the same small area with 4 pot over 1 pot is going to make any difference when ur pads are already running at 700+' C and getting ragged on every corner... the compounds simply will disintegrate.. especially with the weight in something like a golf R / arteon / passat ... they are going to burn up very quickly trying to get that thing to slowly down at high speeds at every corner, Thus why u need to buy a proper racing BBK caliper with larger pads, larger rotors for a larger surface area with super high temp compounds and high temp fluid to spread the friction which keep the temps down and hold up thru the abuse over and over again..

Is this 4 - 6K BBK setup needed for a sometimes drag-strip car? that does 1 pull and stops, sits around, cools down.. find out by upgrading the OEM discs and pads and see how they stop after a few pulls... most important factor will most likely be down to the pad compound durability rather than size of the caliper...

Will you need a racing BBK to take ur 500+HP MQB around a track safely and confidently after a few laps ...

Probably

[Manaz]

just something to think about for anyone wanting to 'Upgrade' their brakes.. it might not really give you much cost / benefit for what your doing over uprated discs and pads.

I concur. Further to that, in some cases, the best upgrade for the first few track days is fresh (and good - DOT 4 or DOT 5.1, *NOT* DOT5, that's different stuff entirely!) brake fluid. Given that brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water) and water has a significantly lower boiling point that brake fluid (170ºC to 270ºC for DOT4, 180ºC to 260ºC+ for DOT 5.1), as water gets into the fluid, it boils early and steam compresses easily, NOT something you want in your brake lines (not to mention potential rust damage when water sits in cast iron calipers over time as well).

On my track car (not a VW, but that's not relevant) we change the brake fluid every 2-3 track days or 6 months, whichever comes first. There's a good reason we do that. :)

[nermal]

I concur. Further to that, in some cases, the best upgrade for the first few track days is fresh (and good - DOT 4 or DOT 5.1, *NOT* DOT5, that's different stuff entirely!) brake fluid. Given that brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water) and water has a significantly lower boiling point that brake fluid (170ºC to 270ºC for DOT4, 180ºC to 260ºC+ for DOT 5.1), as water gets into the fluid, it boils early and steam compresses easily, NOT something you want in your brake lines (not to mention potential rust damage when water sits in cast iron calipers over time as well).

On my track car (not a VW, but that's not relevant) we change the brake fluid every 2-3 track days or 6 months, whichever comes first. There's a good reason we do that. :)

That's really interesting. Does the water vapour come from the atmosphere after the container is opened and when filling etc?

I wonder if the fluid could be run through a vacuum chamber to "boil" the water vapour off? May need to be warmer than room temperature to work though - just a random thought.

[Ozsko]

[QUOTE=Ozsko;1337973][QUOTE=amunra;1337958]



very true. my point exactly is if ur doing track work and think ur gonna need BBK go ahead.. might be a worthwhile investment in your enjoyment / day if its what u like doing.. everyone knows track work is expensive business to do properly.. unfortunately going up 1/2 step to TTS or 1 step to TTRS really isnt gonna add much on the daily driving level for the Time / Money spent... and on a circuit level seems like a mirage upgrade.... doesnt do what u think over the oem caliper.... maybe only for a small period of time before it fails just the same.


did the guys TTS pads fail on the track coz that guy doesnt know how to drive and ate them on the 1st corner ??.. u cant be 100% sure... i would put most of the guys on this forum in that basket of going to eat their pads on the 1st or 2nd corner ..

To me theres the highest chance they failed after a session of hard driving and hard braking and lowest chance he ate them on the 1st corner.. To put it simply... the TTS caliper with OEM pads and discs are not fit for proper track use... end of story

.. would they have faired better with uprated pads and discs on in the same track driving conditions. who knows

.. they may not have gone down to the backing plate but could be close to changing out.... they are the same/similar size as GOLF R brakes just 4 pot... i really doubt a little bit of spread out friction over the same small area with 4 pot over 1 pot is going to make any difference when ur pads are already running at 700+' C and getting ragged on every corner... the compounds simply will disintegrate.. especially with the weight in something like a golf R / arteon / passat ... they are going to burn up very quickly trying to get that thing to slowly down at high speeds at every corner, Thus why u need to buy a proper racing BBK caliper with larger pads, larger rotors for a larger surface area with super high temp compounds and high temp fluid to spread the friction which keep the temps down and hold up thru the abuse over and over again..

Is this 4 - 6K BBK setup needed for a sometimes drag-strip car? that does 1 pull and stops, sits around, cools down.. find out by upgrading the OEM discs and pads and see how they stop after a few pulls... most important factor will most likely be down to the pad compound durability rather than size of the caliper...

Will you need a racing BBK to take ur 500+HP MQB around a track safely and confidently after a few laps ...

Probably
I'm not going to tell you how to do it you need someone in the car to demonstrate how it is done. None of the above tells me you know the proper technique for driving very hard on the track. Personally I find driving a street car on the track to be unrewarding at any level because a street car is a boat on the track.

[Manaz]

That's really interesting. Does the water vapour come from the atmosphere after the container is opened and when filling etc?

I wonder if the fluid could be run through a vacuum chamber to "boil" the water vapour off? May need to be warmer than room temperature to work though - just a random thought.

The brake system isn't actually closed - even when you put the lid on the reservoir, it's not perfectly sealed, and water starts to get into the system.

The same goes for open bottles of brake fluid - they gradually absorb water into the fluid as well. Always use fresh (sealed) fluid, once the seal inside the lid is broken, the brake fluid is starting to absorb moisture.

[amunra]

[QUOTE=amunra;1337974][QUOTE=Ozsko;1337973]
I'm not going to tell you how to do it you need someone in the car to demonstrate how it is done. None of the above tells me you know the proper technique for driving very hard on the track. Personally I find driving a street car on the track to be unrewarding at any level because a street car is a boat on the track.

oh im sorry my mate. how many bathurst races have you won again?

i think it might be called brake modulation.. u press and ease on the release as you enter the turn.. but you sound like the expert please let us know... it would really be foolish to think that guys with actual track experiences with certain equipment might actually know waht they are talking about .... or brake specialists know anything about how pads and calipers perform on the track.. couldnt be a possibility on VW WATERCOOLED FORUM feat lucas_GTI and OSZKO

Maybe we need to ask Manaz i think hes in a position to make give us a lesson on how to modulate your braking around a track or what the best techniques are.

Definately didnt expect it to be same as pottering around the city in traffic ... but you let me know OSZKO you sound like you know the best

[Lucas_R]

how many bathurst races have you won again?

As many as you have no doubt. How do the Kinforests perform on the track by the way?

[Manaz]

How do the Kinforests perform on the track by the way?

Like almost all regular road tyres I imagine - they'll get too warm too quickly and will lose all grip and will shed rubber like it's going out of fashion. Even "sporty" tyres like RE003s don't do well on the track. I've done track days on road tyres, you really have to spend time getting them up to temp slowly (1-2 warm-up laps), then a hot lap, then immediate cool-down laps. Otherwise not only does performance at the track suffer, but lifespan suffers if you get significant heat cycles into them.

Road-legal R-Comps are MUCH better, and can be surprisingly affordable, as can second hand tyres from places like the AE86 series drivers who turn their tyres over regularly, and you can easily get a good couple of track days out of tyres from them). I've found it's best to have separate track and road wheel/tyre combos - carry the track wheels/tyres to the track, change them when you get there, change off them back to the road set when you finish - also handy if something goes wrong and you damage a wheel/tyre to have a set to drive home on...

EDIT by Manaz: Cut out some extraneous stuff, added some more detail.

[Manaz]

i think it might be called brake modulation.. u press and ease on the release as you enter the turn..

Depends entirely on the pads. Like tyres (as per my previous post), regular road pads get too hot too quickly and the binding agents in the pad break down and they stop gripping and you just chew the **** out of them (even worse on slotted rotors). The "solution" is pads designed for higher temperatures - but the compromise then is that such pads generally don't perform well when cold - something to be aware of on the drive to/from the circuit (if that's how you get your car to/from the circuit - I'd love to be able to trailer the car I use for track days, but I'm not set up for that).

Quite a few people actually change pads before and after track sessions. Even then, you need to spend 2-3 laps getting the pads up to temp if you do that (and if you're running r-comp or better tyres, getting them up to temp as well).

Good pads chew rotors too though - it's one of the reasons many people with dedicated track cars (or road cars that they track regularly) run two-piece rotors - replacement rings are generally cheaper than full rotors (and you get other benefits such as lower unsprung mass, less heat transfer into wheel hubs, etc). Be careful doing track days on drilled rotors - drilling doesn't actually help with much (slotted rotors are better in terms of degassing), and drilled spots are weak spots for cracking (more likely if you're doing track days as the heat cycles are more extreme).

[nermal]

Sounds excellent, really looking forward to seeing some pictures when it's done.

The 380mm stage 3 brakes fit like a glove!

54257

The 20" Rosario wheels provide plenty of clearance, though you'd probably want to measure/check before going with the 345/355mm options (the 345mm Stage 2 Racingline template didn't fit).

54258 54256

Harding Performance did me a great deal on some ex-demo stock (from Golf GTI with ~1,500kms) - they even kindly agreed to take some photos during the install for me =)

54259

5426054261


So far, they are driving great. No rattles or squeaks, very smooth and responsive braking. They don't have wear sensors, so this has been disabled. I haven't tested them properly yet as I had the old calipers/rotors in the back - but will report back once I do.

It seems I now have some "unpainted golf R" brakes to sell.

[ope126]

Looks great mate!!!

[Manaz]

Looks great mate!!!

I concur!

[amunra]

The 380mm stage 3 brakes fit like a glove!

54257

The 20" Rosario wheels provide plenty of clearance, though you'd probably want to measure/check before going with the 345/355mm options (the 345mm Stage 2 Racingline template didn't fit).

54258 54256

Harding Performance did me a great deal on some ex-demo stock (from Golf GTI with ~1,500kms) - they even kindly agreed to take some photos during the install for me =)

54259

5426054261


So far, they are driving great. No rattles or squeaks, very smooth and responsive braking. They don't have wear sensors, so this has been disabled. I haven't tested them properly yet as I had the old calipers/rotors in the back - but will report back once I do.

It seems I now have some "unpainted golf R" brakes to sell.

how much?

[nermal]

how much?

I'd rather not disclose as it was a one-off deal (ex-demo stock) - HP may be willing to tell you if you contact them directly.

I was looking at $1,500 for standard OEM replacements anyway and I now have the old calipers etc to sell - which also helps the equation a bit.

[petemac110]

So far, they are driving great. No rattles or squeaks, very smooth and responsive braking. They don't have wear sensors, so this has been disabled. I haven't tested them properly yet as I had the old calipers/rotors in the back - but will report back once I do.


Lovely!

It reminds me of the approach we used to take back in my old Subaru days. Throwing more aggressive pads on the stock calipers (with stock or upgraded rotors) felt great regarding bite and outright performance, but you were always very much aware that you were running aftermarket performance pads, no matter which pad compound you chose. Each had specific trade-offs re: cold performance, noise, wear, dust etc.

Going to larger 4 pot alloy STI Brembo calipers and rotors (or sometimes the 2 pot Liberty GT calipers which were also larger than stock) always felt so much nicer under all conditions - whether on the street or on the track - and due to the additional heatsink capacity of the big rotors and the additional braking torque that the larger setup offered, you could often get away with running less aggressive compounds which just felt nicer on a day-to-day basis.

Yep, it's more expensive, but well worth it if you can afford it IMHO.

[amunra]

I'd rather not disclose as it was a one-off deal (ex-demo stock) - HP may be willing to tell you if you contact them directly.

I was looking at $1,500 for standard OEM replacements anyway and I now have the old calipers etc to sell - which also helps the equation a bit.

ballpark?

[Vedi]

The 380mm stage 3 brakes fit like a glove!

New calipers look on point, great choice.

[nermal]

Lovely!

It reminds me of the approach we used to take back in my old Subaru days. Throwing more aggressive pads on the stock calipers (with stock or upgraded rotors) felt great regarding bite and outright performance, but you were always very much aware that you were running aftermarket performance pads, no matter which pad compound you chose. Each had specific trade-offs re: cold performance, noise, wear, dust etc.

Going to larger 4 pot alloy STI Brembo calipers and rotors (or sometimes the 2 pot Liberty GT calipers which were also larger than stock) always felt so much nicer under all conditions - whether on the street or on the track - and due to the additional heatsink capacity of the big rotors and the additional braking torque that the larger setup offered, you could often get away with running less aggressive compounds which just felt nicer on a day-to-day basis.

Yep, it's more expensive, but well worth it if you can afford it IMHO.

Yeah, I'm really surprised how much it changes the feel and handling of the car - wasn't expecting that.

I took it for a drive just before and it stops much quicker, without realizing it. It's pulling up earlier than it normally would, without the feeling of hard braking. I gave them a bit of a push (only part way) and it came up to a smooth stop very quickly - gotta be careful no-one runs up the back of me now!

The lack of squealing and rattling from the old poorly-fitted pads may also be contributing a little to the psychology - no more cringing while driving over road divets and ruts =D

I expected more grab and roughness (ie. beast mode), but it's actually a lot more refined. Quiet, smooth and gives me more confidence to drive the car harder. Can hit corners a bit faster too (lighter tap going into a faster corner)... can't really do much on the street though, and with some traffic around.

I'm really happy with them - money well spent IMHO.

[amunra]

Yeah, I'm really surprised how much it changes the feel and handling of the car - wasn't expecting that.

I took it for a drive just before and it stops much quicker, without realizing it. It's pulling up earlier than it normally would, without the feeling of hard braking. I gave them a bit of a push (only part way) and it came up to a smooth stop very quickly - gotta be careful no-one runs up the back of me now!

The lack of squealing and rattling from the old poorly-fitted pads may also be contributing a little to the psychology - no more cringing while driving over road divets and ruts =D

I expected more grab and roughness (ie. beast mode), but it's actually a lot more refined. Quiet, smooth and gives me more confidence to drive the car harder. Can hit corners a bit faster too (lighter tap going into a faster corner)... can't really do much on the street though, and with some traffic around.

I'm really happy with them - money well spent IMHO.

Ur just about ready for the track then.. u going?

[nermal]

Ur just about ready for the track then.. u going?


Well... the only track I've ever been on is a go-kart track, so would need a lot of training/practice first.

I'd also like to do some more to the car first. Maybe after stage 3 and if I've fitted the oil catch-can (prevent me from destroying the ea888.3 engine) and probably some other essentials.

[amunra]

Well... the only track I've ever been on is a go-kart track, so would need a lot of training/practice first.

I'd also like to do some more to the car first. Maybe after stage 3 and if I've fitted the oil catch-can (prevent me from destroying the ea888.3 engine) and probably some other essentials.

oil catch can is not gonna prevent you from destroying anything my friend thats a myth.. its actually 1 of the least useful mods u can do on the ea888 and does little to nothing for the money and time spent(well proven by now)

better to invest in a extra oil cooler as the temps can get ridiculously hot and blow ur engine. and quickly (maybe even dsg oil cooler to go with that ) and an uprated oil pan with baffle as both those OEM parts can actually blow ur engine up with temps and oil starvation at the wrong time... (but im sure HARDING PERFORMANCE already told u that?? )

might wanna get some training or practice in first in your sub stage 3 car with stage 3 brake kit... before you go full stage 3 for another what.. 25k and put it thru a wall with ur insurance not valid.

[nermal]

@amunra - it appears you have corrected yourself and yes, to confirm the Golf R / Superb 206TSI 4x4 / Passat 206TSI R-Line / AUDI S3 / Tiguan 162TSI all run identical (Front) 340x30mm vented rotors with the same sized single piston calipers, however the Golf R / AUDI S3 have a cover plate on the caliper, purely a decorative plate.




So, I'm about to list the old brakes (along with some other spare parts I have kicking around)... Would it be safe to advertise these as Arteon brakes that are Golf R "spec"? Anyone have any idea what these things are worth? I'm useless at selling car parts... or cars in general! =D

54275

[amunra]

So, I'm about to list the old brakes (along with some other spare parts I have kicking around)... Would it be safe to advertise these as Arteon brakes that are Golf R "spec"? Anyone have any idea what these things are worth? I'm useless at selling car parts... or cars in general! =D

54275

maybe someone on here with a lower spec golf or GTI might pick them up.

check online how much theyre going for if theres any floating around on ebay or wherever

[Vedi]

Anyone have any idea what these things are worth?

If you listed them with the range of VW MQB cars they match I wager you'd get a bit of interest with the time it takes to receive parts these days.

At a glance there appears to be a bit of life left on the pads, so maybe anywhere from $450-650 depending how quickly you want them gone and how quickly someone needs a repair or upgrade. A good price might also save you the hassle of packaging and shipping them.

Recently some R36 calipers and rotors (no pads) went for $585 (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VW-R32-R36-Scirocco-Golf-R-MK6-Set-of-Front-Brake-Calipers-Caliper-Oem-amp-discs-/133945182523?hash=item1f2fc1493b%3Ag%3ArSkAAOSwg9Z hn24B&nma=true&si=f052zRyzTLbPg%252BsNq%252FQcZQlXGcs%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557)

Some proper R front calipers sold for $469 (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Volkswagen-VW-Golf-R-Mk7-Pair-of-Front-Brake-Calipers-for-340mm-x-30mm-rotors-/275086075591?hash=item400c6866c7%3Ag%3AD3IAAOSwUvV hz6p5&nma=true&si=f052zRyzTLbPg%252BsNq%252FQcZQlXGcs%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557)

There are plenty of no-name caliper and rotor sets for sale, but the OEM gear seems to sell quite well.

[nermal]

If you listed them with the range of VW MQB cars they match I wager you'd get a bit of interest with the time it takes to receive parts these days.

At a glance there appears to be a bit of life left on the pads, so maybe anywhere from $450-650 depending how quickly you want them gone and how quickly someone needs a repair or upgrade. A good price might also save you the hassle of packaging and shipping them.

Thanks, appreciate it =) I split the difference and put them up for $550 (ono): MQB 340mm Front Brake Set (https://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f24/mqb-340mm-front-brake-set-134270.html)

I've recommended that the pads be replaced though - these were poor-fitting aftermarket pads that rattled and squealed (but still safe, inspected by VW)... the level sensor wire is also cut.

[Manaz]

There are plenty of no-name caliper and rotor sets for sale, but the OEM gear seems to sell quite well.


A big benefit of this is that they're engineered to fit many VAG-group vehicles without any modifications, and honestly, 99% of people would never recognise that they're not stock. Makes rego inspections much easier, and can avoid the need to have engineering work done.

[nermal]

In case anyone's interested, @tigger73 is selling a 380mm, 6 pot Alcon BBK for only $2K (was $4,800)

https://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f24/380mm-alcon-car97-6-piston-bbk-134383.html#post1338925

[Vedi]

Do installers recommended getting an upgraded master cylinder when doing a BBK conversion? Or is stock up to the job?

[nermal]

Do installers recommended getting an upgraded master cylinder when doing a BBK conversion? Or is stock up to the job?

I'm just running stock and they didn't recommend upgrading it.

[nickbeh]

Hi All - I'm due for new front pads and disks

whats everyone's opinion for a stock caliper setup?

Wouldn't mind a larger disk

[Vedi]

I am pretty content with the stock calipers for street use.

DBA pads and rotors are fairly easy to source often on special. The popular VW upgrade is the XP Performance pads (Orange) with the T3 4000 slotted rotors. They give a really nice bite over stock.

Sparesbox have their 20% off brakes sale fairly regularly. I picked up front and rear rotors and pads for around $1000.

It won't be a 'dramatic' difference in stopping distance, but very noticeable for feel and endurance.

[nermal]

I've also been told that the "Clubsport S" rotors are a good OEM+ option

I was given part# 5Q0615301C when originally looking for a interim fix to my rattling brake issue.

[nickbeh]

Whats cost difference between the clubsport and dba option ?

Interested to see Which will provide better performance also 🤔

[nermal]

Whats cost difference between the clubsport and dba option ?

Interested to see Which will provide better performance also

I was quoted around $750 for the front rotors a while ago. I think the Clubsport S option came to ~$1,500 total for rotors, pads, bolts and labour.

I ended up getting the Stage 3 RacingLine 380mm BBK (ex-demo, great price) and sold my old brakes on gumtree. So, wasn't as huge a jump in cost as you might think.

[Vedi]

DBA and Zimmerman are both respected after market producers, so you probably won't notice much difference in performance unless you are doing very serious track work.

When talking calipers, brake pads and rotors the law of diminishing returns hits pretty quickly. You'll find that tyres will make the biggest difference to stopping distance.

[dairyfloss]

I recently had ATE ceramic brake pads fitted to the front and rear, and as the front discs were also found to be wearing down, I decided to replace the stock rotors with Brembo drilled rotors at the same time. The ATE pads were a bit over $420 + labor, and the Brembo front discs were $630 + labor.

Very happy with the combination, after about 3-4 months of driving now; and loving that there is next to no dust on the Rosarios, using the ceramic pads!

Cheers,
Matt.