MK5 stereo install advice

[Greg Roles]

Hello all,

I'm going to purchase a golf in the next several weeks, and the one mod I want to do first up is put a decent sound system in it. Having done several systems over the years I pretty much have that side under control, but wondered if anyone who has done one in a mark 5 could give me any up front advice as to things to watch out for, tips and tricks, basically the hindsight side of an install. I hear there are plenty of things to rattle....

I aim to replace the head with a current Alpine, run the front 6" splits and 12" boxed sub off a 4 channel amp, and drive some reasonable 6"ers in the rear shelf straight from the head for fill. I will run stand-alone power wiring, to and from an audio specific battery. I'll be dynamatting everywhere along the way.

Anything in particular that rattles or is tricky to get apart / breaks easy?

Always nicer to know up front:D

thanks for any advice!

[STV4SYT]

In the FAQ section, the first link is how to remove the stereo, has lots of pics etc to give u an idea what to expect.

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=7059

[Greg Roles]

Thanks Steve,

Thanks for that and it is indeed very helpful, and it sounds like the dash is a bit flimsy, so good to know up front.

I'm mainly wondering how aftermarket speakers fit in the doors, does the door opener rod rattle, is the car going to flip out if I remove the radio unit, stuff like that.

anyone?

[Mischa]

Thanks Steve,

Thanks for that and it is indeed very helpful, and it sounds like the dash is a bit flimsy, so good to know up front.

I'm mainly wondering how aftermarket speakers fit in the doors, does the door opener rod rattle, is the car going to flip out if I remove the radio unit, stuff like that.

anyone?

to make your life easy i suggest getting a face plate that converts the unique golf size slot into one double din or two single din slots. sorry thats all i can suggest :P

[ScienceVR6]

Hello all,

I'm going to purchase a golf in the next several weeks, and the one mod I want to do first up is put a decent sound system in it. Having done several systems over the years I pretty much have that side under control, but wondered if anyone who has done one in a mark 5 could give me any up front advice as to things to watch out for, tips and tricks, basically the hindsight side of an install. I hear there are plenty of things to rattle....

I aim to replace the head with a current Alpine, run the front 6" splits and 12" boxed sub off a 4 channel amp, and drive some reasonable 6"ers in the rear shelf straight from the head for fill. I will run stand-alone power wiring, to and from an audio specific battery. I'll be dynamatting everywhere along the way.

Anything in particular that rattles or is tricky to get apart / breaks easy?

Always nicer to know up front:D

thanks for any advice!
Why are you using a second battery for just one amp, and a VERY basic install?
Unnessesary.

I'm using 2 amp, (4ch and mono, both very powerfull) On the standard battery with no voltage drops on 4 gauge cableing. While dynamat is usfull, I don't belive it nessesary on a MK5 with just splits and a 12".
I have a set of 3 way splits, a set of 2 way splits and a set of co-ax in my MK3 with no dyamat, and it sounds fantastic. Why not put the rear speakers in the standard speaker locations? Thats why there there. Trust me, avoid cutting into the shelf. Makes it look dodgy.

[Greg Roles]

Hey Science, thanks for the reply.

Great to hear that you figure Dynamat is uneccessary. That answers my main query.

Sorry it seems my first post wasn't clear, but I didn't want to go into boring detail just to ask if stuff rattles or is easily broken. I will be dynamatting the car anyhow, as I simply see the benefit. Glad you are happy with your setup.
It might "only" be a 12" but it's a Boston G5 with a 12" radiator....so it tends to make things rattle.

I will be replacing the stock battery with a deep cycle audio specific one. Whilst my install is indeed simple that one amp is a bit of an old school monster, and it does not like a voltage drop at all. Puts out some good RMS numbers on the meter though! Plus I've already got the battery....

I will be using the stock rear holes and not cutting any metal. It's just fill from the rear anyhow.

Thanks guys, I just need the car now!

[ScienceVR6]

sorry, at first you just sounded like the noobs i deal with in other forums with FULLY SICK VN commodores, who just want there sony 12" to pop out the windows, but then they also want it to sound good. And it's never going to do either. I like the boston G5. Good crisp sound, and i'll be keen to here your thoughts on the radiator. I have seen them, but never heard one used.
As for the rattles, i think your pretty safe with the MK5, they are very well bolted togther.

As for the battery, i thought you where going twin batterys, that i definatly can't see the point of for a small install.

[Greg Roles]

Hey science, no probs, I know what you mean. I never talk stereo even though I love it, cause you always end up talking to some goose who mentions that their speakers are high wattage and thus way louder. A lot of misinformation out there.

Once it all goes in, I'll give you my opinion, for what it's worth!

[Mr ©harisma]

Great to hear that you figure Dynamat is uneccessary. That answers my main query.

Dynamat is a neccessary evil. You will need it. I used a bulk pack plus 2 sheets in the bora. Don't forget about Dynasorb behind your mids ( or Focal chant )

It might "only" be a 12" but it's a Boston G5 with a 12" radiator....so it tends to make things rattle.

Prepare for rattles dude. I had one of those running off an Audison SRx2s and everything shakes. In the old car it was much much worse. Look forward to very low extension. I have since replaced mine with a OZ ME 12.2. Wanted something with more punch.

I will be replacing the stock battery with a deep cycle audio specific one. Thats a great idea dude. I run an Optima D34M and a 200A earthing kit. No cap needed with good earths. :)

Good luck with it all. Be very careful of the clips, for some reason they break very easily in the VW's. Other than that my install was fairly straight forward.

[glidn]

you can run either the JL audio CSX-635 i think from memory, they have the 3 way set, so you can utilies all 3 speakers in the door.

or you can run with the entry level focal 3 ways from memory there 4inch is also shallowish.

For the mid you cannot realistic run larger than a 47mm depth for the 3 - 4" mid.

With the 6" mid you can run up to a 7" which a mere spacer.

but do remember to seal the door with dynamat or hushmat or anything like that. You will thank yourself in the long run.

[Greg Roles]

Hey guys!

Thanks for the input.

Dynamat is already sitting downstairs, and I've got plenty. It was always going to go in.

I did notice the 3 way holes in the front doors ( nice! ), but decided to just go 2 ways. Both because the 3 way options are more limited ( and expensive in the nice stuff! ) and I already have some very nice Boston pro's ready to go in from my last ride.

Am tossing up a sub though, for there isn't a stack of space. Never tried one of those under the seat jobs, and given how a decent sub needs volume I am unsure how they would really be effective, but it's an option??

The G5 sub I had my heart set on is going to halve the boot!

Much to ponder.....

But thanks for the info!!:D

[Mr ©harisma]

You might have to get creative with the install. Maybe a good 10inch in the spare tire well? The G5 10inch only needs 0.5-0.6cuft.

If you can not afford to loose 1cuft of boot for the 12inch then it is going to be difficult to get the sound your after.

Hertz have some decent 3 way splits with shallow mids, ESK and HSK 163's, however they are not going to sound as good as the Pro's ( well the Mille 3 ways with the ribbon tweeters will sound awesome!!).

[glidn]

Well JL Audio make an of ther shelf 10" sub and box for your car. But to be honest, you could easily get an 8" RE re audio sub in there. Before everyone starts laughing, these are some very impressive subs.
There is a company here in NZ that has managed 140.4DB from one single 8.

And another company here that has managed 142.2 on a ported dual 8" setup. But i guess the best thing is that the really blend very well with the front stage and if need be can crank.

Also they only require a mere 0.3cubic feet, but i would recommend up to a 0.5cubic foot box sealed.

[Mr ©harisma]

Dude the DD components ( 6.5inch ) handle 200WRMS and have hit 140db on termilab. They also make a 8inch little wonder. It doesn't matter how loud it goes, just how good it sounds.

[glidn]

Yeah i know DD makes an 8 but unlike Aussie, there are only 8 of them in existance in NZ, and no one will get rid of theres.

The Crowd that managed to get 140DB out of a single RE audio RE8.
Also managed 135.1DB from a single DD1008 running single coil and 200wrms, so there is alot of head room.

I know there is great potential with many speakers. But i guess it really depends on what the single person wants from there stereo, be it SQ or SPL or just something to fill the gaps.

But i guess it's up to each individual to choose what they want from there system.

[Mr ©harisma]

Yeah that must suck dude. What do people use over there to get loud? Obviously the stereotype that you all use Fusion gear has lifted a bit... Are they on Audiocontrol or Termilab?

I had to laugh when I seen a High Octane movie and they showed him getting 146 or 147db out of 2 sealed Sony woofers powered off a Sony amp... definately not an accurate number.

[Greg Roles]

Hey guys,

Hmmmm, some interesting sub options to explore. Thanks for the ideas and input. I've got an old school US Van Gough amp, with plenty of power, and it will drive a sub nicely.

I'm purely after sound quality; I'm not into letting the surrounding suburb know what I am listening to. The sort of sub you can crank on the highway and drown out the road noise. I'd be happy with that.

I looked at the wheel well but it certainly isn't deep enough unless I make a false floor. That said, it may well be a great option, good mix of some useable boot space and a smaller sub or two.

I agree I need to do something, for the stock system, whilst obviously basic sounds rather poor without a sub. I actually prefer to listen to the rattly diesel!

Will look into those DD's, heard LOTs about that brand and know very little about them.

[Mr ©harisma]

I would not get a DD if you are after sound quality. What is your budget?

There is not point me suggesting that a Hertz Mille will do perfectly if your not willing to spend $1k.

[glidn]

if you can try and find an RE audio RE8 or the likes of a Focal 8. Otherwise get an atomic or image dynamix 8". Those should set you right. But for SQ and space required the RE8 would be my pic of the lot. And it will fit neatly into the left rear corner of your car rather nicely.

[Greg Roles]

Thanks lads. More great ideas.:D

I appreciate your input, as I've been "out of the scene" for a few years now, and am a bit behind the latest.

I'd be hesitant to spend more than $500 odd on a sub, as that's about where a G5 kicks in ( for me anyway ; )

I'll do some looking around at your suggestions and let you know what I find. Car is a week old today, so much to do before I really need a sub.

Fun times ahead!

[Greg Roles]

Lads, DD's and the RE's look great ( very hot little subs! ), but Mr C is on the money with the G510, 14.8 Litre sealed box! Wow.

The others recommend at least a cubic foot - 28L.

I think we have a winner.

[glidn]

the RE8 should set back around $199ish.

it works in boxes from as small as 6 Litres, but i would recommend around 10 - 13 litres, blends in with the front alot better IMHO.

Never heard of the G510, i think i'll do some investigation on that.

[qsilverza]

Hey Charisma, Glad to see you here ! (CAA) :)

I have a G5 in my Bora and it sounds pretty good. My only complaint is that the extra weight really affected the handling so I have pulled it out for now. The plan was orginally to have two G5's running off my amp each seeing 1400 W's in parallel but I might neg on that.

Anyway's all I can say is I think you will be happy with the G5 and I would love to hear your thoughts on the radiator when you get it.

Good thing with the matting but remember not to use to much if you want to keep the car somewhat sporty.

[glidn]

For what is worth, this is what i did for a guy in his Bora.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/03/Bora_Jetta_10_subbox-1.jpg

[Greg Roles]

Awesome info guys, and Glidn that's exactly where my thoughts are going. Nice install! Just keen to get the volume correct, obviously easier in a regular box. Have to somehow try to tie in the radiator if i go G5, just cause you can!

I agree overkill with dynamat is unecessary ( for my needs anyway... ), and other parts are coming out, so the weight gain won't be too great. I have a large box full of "extra" bits out of the car already. As for "sporty", I'm planning on tweaking more than just the stereo. Visited my friendly APR guy today to get some ideas.... : )

[Greg Roles]

the RE8 should set back around $199ish.

it works in boxes from as small as 6 Litres, but i would recommend around 10 - 13 litres, blends in with the front alot better IMHO.

Never heard of the G510, i think i'll do some investigation on that.

You love the RE hey!

Won't rule it out, as it would certainly be light, and that is always a plus for the twisty stuff. I'd guess it'd be a lot shallower too, easier to fit in glidn's pic example above. Cheaper too, let me get other goodies quicker!

Thing is in the performance vs volume ratio, what beats the G510?

I've got a very modestly rated 500RMS to feed a sub...

[Mr ©harisma]

Hey Charisma, Glad to see you here ! (CAA) :)

I have a G5 in my Bora and it sounds pretty good. My only complaint is that the extra weight really affected the handling so I have pulled it out for now. The plan was orginally to have two G5's running off my amp each seeing 1400 W's in parallel but I might neg on that.

Anyway's all I can say is I think you will be happy with the G5 and I would love to hear your thoughts on the radiator when you get it.

Good thing with the matting but remember not to use to much if you want to keep the car somewhat sporty.

lol are you stalking me. Yeah thought I better off load some of my knowledge, or lack there of :D

The G5 10inch should be fine, I would also recommend something like:
Oz Audio Me 10.2
Treo TSX 10inch
Hertz HX250

Either one of those 4 will be fine and loud in a sealed enclosure. When I had the G5 it would blend in awesomely if I had some 7 / 8 or 9inch mids. However only having 6.5inch mids the Oz Me that I replaced it with has a lot more punch but not quite the rumble.

Does your car have that flap on the side for the first aid kit? That would be the perfect place to do something similar.

[glidn]

Haha, yeah i like the RE8 more for the Fact that it not only goes insanely loud without all that much power. And secondly it requires the least space for a sealed enclosure that i came across against anything else.

I'm currently running 2xRE8 at around 500 - 700WRMS. And they are doing a remarkable job.

I use to run a single RE12, only at a mere 300wrms, and i actually took it out of the car about 3 days later. IT was way to much, it just had way to much kick but it too blended nicely, was not sloppy and all that. But LOUD SQ or stupidly LOUD SPL, it did a great job. But again i need the space in my car.

Hence the RE8 fit the bill in all catagories. Small Sub, Small box, does not need massive power, loud output and it does not cost all that much.

But they do 10 and a 12 if you really want. and the RE audio - RE range is the entry level subs, and the 5 more levels to go up to.

Well the Boston G510 appears to be one very nice sub, but it defeats the purpose of a small sealed enclosure for the size of the magnet. It volume in the box maybe tiny. But way to big IMO.

I did hope someone in NZ would have done Hertz or Oz audio, but alas no one do these either.

But the likes of the morel and that, just simply ship from the states.

[Greg Roles]

Ahh, so THAT's what that strap thing is in the boot, a first aid holder. Couldn't work it out! That'd be the side, for it's opposite me for weight distribution as well.

Great ideas, and Glidn, you're right about the depth of the bigger speakers. I'll do some measuring and cardboard mockups, and get serious about the space I can afford, THEN find the sub to suit. Otherwise it's just piss!ng in the wind...:rolleyes:

[Greg Roles]

OK, I've played with the tape measure and putting in even a shallow 10" would be a mission to keep it nice and level with the wheel arch. I'm even wondering where the heck to put the amp I have! Space is the major factor for me, I may dream of a 12" in a box, but I know it will spend a lot of time out of the car, which defeats the purpose.

Seems the left side would give a "box" volume around 10-13 litres if I do a bit of metal work for the magnet.That RE8 is starting to look pretty good.

I've heard these Hertz speakers mentioned like gods before...are they REALLY that great, or is it the old law of diminishing returns?

[Mr ©harisma]

Personally I would get the Oz Me. Mount it magnet out, add some darcon and you will be sweet. Or the boston bum out will look awesome. I have the 12inch OZ with 600WRMS and it doesn't overpower my splits which are getting around 70WRMS although it is turned down. I need the 12 though for the low Hz. The 10inch didn't cut it for me but with space at a premium you will probably like it. Hertz gear it good, Mille is pure awesome but lots of $$$.

Glidn that sucks that no one does those brands. rm audio are the Aust distributors of Hertz / Audison / Morel perhaps someone in NZ should have a chat to them....

As with everything audition it and see how you like it. Personally I have never liked a 10inch. From the IDMAX to DD 9510 to Treo SSi none have impressed me.... so far :D

[glidn]

OK, I've played with the tape measure and putting in even a shallow 10" would be a mission to keep it nice and level with the wheel arch. I'm even wondering where the heck to put the amp I have! Space is the major factor for me, I may dream of a 12" in a box, but I know it will spend a lot of time out of the car, which defeats the purpose.

Seems the left side would give a "box" volume around 10-13 litres if I do a bit of metal work for the magnet.That RE8 is starting to look pretty good.

I've heard these Hertz speakers mentioned like gods before...are they REALLY that great, or is it the old law of diminishing returns?

Yeah i know where you are coming from as far as boot space is considered. hence for past 4 months i have always explored idea's outside the box. And what would you know? The RE8 fitted that bill. And 10 - 13 Litres would be superb for this little monster.

And only requires 4 Inch mounting depth.

I guess in most likely 12ish months i will be in the same boat that you are currently in. If i can help of course.

Mr Charisma - Yeah it does bite the dust, not being able to play with those products here.

I guess there price point hear will most likely outweigh the likelyhood of them sellings. As Parallel importing is such a big thing here.

That Proper established channels and networks for gear, slowly becomes un cost effective.

At least that is the only reason i can currently see why nobody does those brands in NZ. Or at least i have been unable to find in NZ.

[Mr ©harisma]

I guess in most likely 12ish months i will be in the same boat that you are currently in. If i can help of course.

Mr Charisma - Yeah it does bite the dust, not being able to play with those products here.

I guess there price point hear will most likely outweigh the likelyhood of them sellings. As Parallel importing is such a big thing here.

That Proper established channels and networks for gear, slowly becomes un cost effective.

At least that is the only reason i can currently see why nobody does those brands in NZ. Or at least i have been unable to find in NZ.

Hmm I have had a quick look around around and I think your right. No one seems willing, or able for that matter, to bite the bullet and introduce many of the new products. If you get a chance you should have a look at www.fhrxstudios.com and go to products to see what people in Sydney can go down and Audition.

Don't worry if it makes you feel any better, I know guys in far North Qld who are in the same boat as you. They stock Focal, at least that is a start from the all Pioneer / Clarion / Alpine gear.

[glidn]

Hmm I have had a quick look around around and I think your right. No one seems willing, or able for that matter, to bite the bullet and introduce many of the new products. If you get a chance you should have a look at www.fhrxstudios.com and go to products to see what people in Sydney can go down and Audition.

Don't worry if it makes you feel any better, I know guys in far North Qld who are in the same boat as you. They stock Focal, at least that is a start from the all Pioneer / Clarion / Alpine gear.

Thanks for that

maybe i should fly over to sydney, to have a listen to all this gear available. then get some myself.

[Mr ©harisma]

Thanks for that

maybe i should fly over to sydney, to have a listen to all this gear available. then get some myself.

It might be worth a trip because there are serveral of the countrys best there. Doran / Lifestyle / Platinum to name a few. I might post up some picces of my boot install that was done at FHRX, anyone in Sydney who needs advice should go see Marty or Joel.

[qsilverza]

I know the owner of RM Audio quite well, I could pop the question to him if you like. He may be willing to ship to you.

PM me if you would like...

[glidn]

It might be worth a trip because there are serveral of the countrys best there. Doran / Lifestyle / Platinum to name a few. I might post up some picces of my boot install that was done at FHRX, anyone in Sydney who needs advice should go see Marty or Joel.

Yeah i think you should start a new thread on some of the installs you ahve done, i would be very interested in deed to see them.

As for cogdoc, let us know your progress, would be very interested indeed as to what you end up doing.

and lastly qsilverza, thanks for the offer, i generally never buy gear if i have not heard it at least once. but thanks, i may take you up on the offer in the future.

[Mr ©harisma]

Yeah i think you should start a new thread on some of the installs you ahve done, i would be very interested in deed to see them.

As for cogdoc, let us know your progress, would be very interested indeed as to what you end up doing.

and lastly qsilverza, thanks for the offer, i generally never buy gear if i have not heard it at least once. but thanks, i may take you up on the offer in the future.

Yeah ill try and round up some picces. Nothing that exciting, most people that I help get a prefab box and some amps. My car is ok, still not finished ( it never is lol ).

Umm if you want to check out the suppliers site it is www.rmaudio.com.au Honestly glidn if there was only supplier I could choose from it would be them. They sell:
Morel Speakers( Yummy 9" mids, Supremo tweeters ),
Audison Amps ( have these in my car, awesome! Italian quality )
Hertz Gear ( Mille ribbon mid is god, Mille sub, HP amps )

Have not used anything yet from Morel personally, as I said I have Audison amps and both my girlfriend and bro have Hertz components and I had a Hertz HXS300 for a month for Audition.

[glidn]

Yeah ill try and round up some picces. Nothing that exciting, most people that I help get a prefab box and some amps. My car is ok, still not finished ( it never is lol ).

Umm if you want to check out the suppliers site it is www.rmaudio.com.au Honestly glidn if there was only supplier I could choose from it would be them. They sell:
Morel Speakers( Yummy 9" mids, Supremo tweeters ),
Audison Amps ( have these in my car, awesome! Italian quality )
Hertz Gear ( Mille ribbon mid is god, Mille sub, HP amps )

Have not used anything yet from Morel personally, as I said I have Audison amps and both my girlfriend and bro have Hertz components and I had a Hertz HXS300 for a month for Audition.

Hey, it's just so funny, those that know alot of car audio systems, no matter what our systems are never finished.

As for the Morel fronts you have, i would aprreciate a few pics of it in the front of your MK4 golf/Bora?

But yeah The Morel's are very nice, never heard a set thou.
But would love a 8 or 9" mid in 3 way in the front of my car.

[Mr ©harisma]

lol na dude I don't have Morel fronts yet, I ended up going with Boston Acoustics cause they where $100 cheaper and sounded almost the same ( as the equalivent Morel 6inch ). Ill do up a new thread with everything so far so it can give people so ideas as well.

[Greg Roles]

Yeah, stop hogging my thread, it's all about me afterall!:D

Glidn, I did some serious research on the RE8's you love so much, and the options in that size, and ended up ordering a Boston 1008, just cause I have such a hardon about Boston stuff. I'm sure the RE would be awesome, perhaps better, but the Boston had a few things going for it.

My biggest problem now is where to mount my Van Gough amp, and I'm half tossing up something like the alpine PDX compact amps, despite the reported poor low end response, just because of the space issue.

Any advice on the little amp options from you guys? I will step out of my boston comfort zone for an amp....although they do have that Q tune thing:D

I want to drive the front Pro6.5's and the sub from an amp, and the rear S60's from the headunit, an alpine 9987 with the usual 22 odd RMS x 4. Can't wait to try the Imprint.

[glidn]

Yeah, stop hogging my thread, it's all about me afterall!:D

Glidn, I did some serious research on the RE8's you love so much, and the options in that size, and ended up ordering a Boston 1008, just cause I have such a hardon about Boston stuff. I'm sure the RE would be awesome, perhaps better, but the Boston had a few things going for it.

My biggest problem now is where to mount my Van Gough amp, and I'm half tossing up something like the alpine PDX compact amps, despite the reported poor low end response, just because of the space issue.

Any advice on the little amp options from you guys? I will step out of my boston comfort zone for an amp....although they do have that Q tune thing:D

I want to drive the front Pro6.5's and the sub from an amp, and the rear S60's from the headunit, an alpine 9987 with the usual 22 odd RMS x 4. Can't wait to try the Imprint.

Yeah not a problem, let us know how it sound once installed.

As for amps, i'm not sure what footprint of an amp will work you or not. I'll go have a look at some car yards, maybe find some solution.

Infinity make a 5ch amp currently, 100WRMSx4 and sub channel os 300WRMS@4ohm and 500WRMS@2ohm, could maybe work for you. Not sure?

I did have a big problem with small amps and big power. But ended up redoing the whole stereo install instead.

As for the imprint, i have official heard a first negative against it.
One thing of course with imprint set, you cannot fidel with the EQ at all, or you can retune with imprint.

But the negative thing was just this. Once system was tuned with Imprint, all bottom end had alot less impact as before. Company reckoned that some one with no sub would benefit from it far more than some with a sub.

Also it sets the system up to sound like it's inside a studio.

[glidn]

dont forget to post pics of the new boston 1008.

[Greg Roles]

Interesting....well I guess I'll see for myself. I pretty much wanted that deck anyhow, and scored the imprint kit for next to nothing on top.

What seems odd is for such an indepth tuning device, it suggests any external amps have the gain set to 12 o'clock. That in itself seems to be a bit "rough", as I'm sure you are aware of the massive difference in various amp gains.

I already have the perfect amp, but it's physically big for a golf boot. These new digital class amps are half the size, but seems they don't have the same low end performance from what I've read thus far...

Don't worry, I'll try and find a way to fit the Soundstream!

Pics no problem!

[Mr ©harisma]

I might drop the name Audison for amps, they make a couple of dedicated 3 channel amps... SRx series are very small for the outputs. LRx will give you the power though.

SRx3 is $RRP700
75WRMS x2 + 270WRMS x1 4ohm

Or even better
LRx 3.1k is $RRP1440
170WRMS x2 + 750WRMS x1 4ohm
Both amps can run the sub channel in 2ohm as well.

Or what about the DD S4 $RRP999
100WRMS x2 + 600WRMS x1 4ohm.

Just some more options. I must admit I am a Boston fan as well, god knows I have blown enough of them up lol.

[glidn]

I might drop the name Audison for amps, they make a couple of dedicated 3 channel amps... SRx series are very small for the outputs. LRx will give you the power though.

SRx3 is $RRP700
75WRMS x2 + 270WRMS x1 4ohm

Or even better
LRx 3.1k is $RRP1440
170WRMS x2 + 750WRMS x1 4ohm
Both amps can run the sub channel in 2ohm as well.

Or what about the DD S4 $RRP999
100WRMS x2 + 600WRMS x1 4ohm.

Just some more options. I must admit I am a Boston fan as well, god knows I have blown enough of them up lol.


WOW are these all Audison amps you are recommending here?

As for that actually i completely for got about the DLS Amps, they also do 3 channel amps, and there higher end range sub channels are 1ohm stable.

But again it all depends on your voice coil configuration of your Boston, as to what will work best for your application.

Yeah i just got a 9887 yesterday and already installed.

But sorry no pics of my install as i have nothing in there. Other than standard speakers and the 9887

[Mr ©harisma]

WOW are these all Audison amps you are recommending here?

As for that actually i completely for got about the DLS Amps, they also do 3 channel amps, and there higher end range sub channels are 1ohm stable.

But again it all depends on your voice coil configuration of your Boston, as to what will work best for your application.

Yeah i just got a 9887 yesterday and already installed.

But sorry no pics of my install as i have nothing in there. Other than standard speakers and the 9887

No the last one is a DD ( Digital Designs ) amp. There are more but I couldn't remember them, like that DLS which is a great amp as well. Boston will more than likely be 4 or DVC 4ohm... Are you getting the 108? You wrote 1008 but I assume it is the below? http://www.bostonacoustics.com/car/car_product.aspx?product_id=402

If I could have one amp to run my system it would be the Lrx 3.1K, with about 160WRMS x2 + 1100WRMS x1 in 4/2ohm, power and control aplenty but if that is the sub your getting above, you will only be able to give it about 400WRMS. I have seen many a G2 blown from medium power levels....

[Greg Roles]

That's the puppy. Sorry for the typo.

I'll do my best to fit the amp i have, VGA500.4 , for it's perfect for my application. Space will be the only killer.

[glidn]

you could always remove your spare wheel and mount the amps in there?

I do not know the law there, but here you do not legally have to have a spare wheel.

[Greg Roles]

dont forget to post pics of the new boston 1008.

Speaker porn for the kiwi crew....

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/03/2008_0320Image00031-1.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/03/2008_0320Image00032-1.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/03/2008_0320Image0003-1.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/03/2008_0320Image0005-1.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/03/2008_0320Image0004-1.jpg

[Mr ©harisma]

Interesting, should be good in the GT. 1.5inch excursion might rattle some trim :D

[Greg Roles]

you could always remove your spare wheel and mount the amps in there?

I do not know the law there, but here you do not legally have to have a spare wheel.

OK, the setup is ready to install, and I've taken a lead from the kiwi crew, and used a foam box to bed in all my speakers. I'm sure the neighburs are very very sick of my cd mix!

I have swapped the spare wheel for a can of tyre repair / inflator and have cheapy 12v compressor to carry as well. I'm going to start on the spare wheel / amp caddy tonight, and see how much I can get done over the weekend. Should be all up and running in a week or so.

Looking forward to it all, it sounds good just in the foam box!

[glidn]

awesome, nice little sub you have there, i would be very interested to see how it goes.

As long as you keep up the good work, and Photo library too, it's all good.

[Greg Roles]

OK so I am FINALLY geting my install underway. Work going nuts, and a hot hot new girlie :D have kinda delayed the audio plans, but we're finally getting there.

Thus far I've only got the head unit in this week, but had a bit of a problem. I ran direct 16ga power wire for the head unit, fused, to the battery, but on hooking it up to the terminals the positive wire started to get a bit warm at the battery end despite the stereo being off ( no ignition ) and before I worked out the wire wasn't hot from the torch I had next to it and cut it, it had blown the fuse in the line in a nice puff of smoke!

Now I have hooked it up via the 12v in the headunit plug, and it's running fine.

My question is, why? I couldn't find any shorts, and double checked all the wires before powering it up, and on hooking up the dash 12v it is running just fine. I can't figure out the reason for the current drain that made the direct wire get hot, nor why 16 guage wasn't enough. Is the mistake too thin a wire direct to the battery??

I'm very lost ( but GLAD nothing serious went bang! )

[glidn]

OK so I am FINALLY geting my install underway. Work going nuts, and a hot hot new girlie :D have kinda delayed the audio plans, but we're finally getting there.

Thus far I've only got the head unit in this week, but had a bit of a problem. I ran direct 16ga power wire for the head unit, fused, to the battery, but on hooking it up to the terminals the positive wire started to get a bit warm at the battery end despite the stereo being off ( no ignition ) and before I worked out the wire wasn't hot from the torch I had next to it and cut it, it had blown the fuse in the line in a nice puff of smoke!

Now I have hooked it up via the 12v in the headunit plug, and it's running fine.

My question is, why? I couldn't find any shorts, and double checked all the wires before powering it up, and on hooking up the dash 12v it is running just fine. I can't figure out the reason for the current drain that made the direct wire get hot, nor why 16 guage wasn't enough. Is the mistake too thin a wire direct to the battery??

I'm very lost ( but GLAD nothing serious went bang! )

16 Gauge will most cetainly not be enough for power requirement, you would be better off with the likes of 10G or even 8G, or at least that is the sizes of wiring i run for the head units.

These are the only other reason i could think of that can cause this:

1. The other thing can also been that your ground was not connected correctly so positive wire gets hot as it can not get rid of voltage.
2. Could have a small crack in the cable that could cause to voltage jump from wire to chassis.


These are some of the things i could think of.

If you run the wire from the battery to a little desk in front of the car and wire up the radio again. Does it still produce the same symptoms?

[Greg Roles]

Hey can any of you educate me on the adaptors to allow an aftermarket head unit be controlled by the steering wheel buttons? I'm missing the volume and track skip, and I know there are adaptor kits out there, just don't know anything about them. I had one set shown to me once at a audio shop, but it looked very rough and like an electronics kit more than a commercial kit.

Any advice? I'm running a 9887 Alpine, and very very happy with it.

UPDATE: Running the PAC system, and it works a treat. there is a bit of a delay, but hey, it's nice to have use of all the buttons again.

[Greg Roles]

Man this has to be the most drawn out install of all time!

FINALLY, I've taken a few days off work just to finalise this. Thus far I've decided on a rear left sub mount and box idea, managed to build an approx 8L enclosure with just a little metal work, made up a amp shelf where the spare used to be, and am into the rear doors. The sub suits 8.5L so I'll look at adding a bit extra today. Despite the poor corners in my "box", once it was fully glued, siliconed and dynamatted, it's a rather sturdy setup. I had to bend it a bit from the initial nice "bench setup! I'd like to take the time to make it beautiful, but so long as it's tight and sealed, and works, well I simply don't have the time!

I decided to leave the lower section below the sub, as this is where the air vent from the boot to the outside is, and I've run into trouble with the flap setup before, where it flapped in time with the sub and it sounded just terrible. Hopefully by isolating the box, the effect will be minimised, plus I'd like to make a second pocket for tools etc.

Here's the library this far:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/10/DSCF1840-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/10/DSCF1857-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/10/DSCF1850-2.jpg

[Greg Roles]

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/10/DSCF1851-2.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/10/DSCF1852-2.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/10/DSCF1853-1.jpg

Corners look worse than they ended up...

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/10/DSCF1859-2.jpg

[Greg Roles]

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/10/DSCF1858-1.jpg

Had to get creative with the section around the tail light - hope the bulbs don't blow for a while!!

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/10/DSCF1854-1.jpg

plenty of clearance behind the sub:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/10/DSCF1855-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/10/DSCF1842-2.jpg

[Greg Roles]

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/10/DSCF1843-1.jpg

31mm spacer on the drivers in the rear doors:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/10/DSCF1844-2.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/10/DSCF1845-2.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/10/DSCF1847-2.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/10/DSCF1849-2.jpg

[Greg Roles]

Boston S60 splits in the rears...

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/10/DSCF1846-2.jpg

Dynamat city, with emphasis on the fronts and sub, as these are amp driven... incidently the sound deadener sheet on the passenger rear had fallen off and was a dried crumpled heap in the bottom of the door.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/10/DSCF1864-2.jpg

[Mr ©harisma]

Ha it's Boston city, good to see ha.

With Dynamat it usually works better in large sheets. Leave it whole and cut around what you don't need.

How are you going to trim the box?

[Greg Roles]

Front fascia will be matching carpet ( once I get a notion as to where to get a piece...), the top is covered by the rear right parcel shelf support, and the bottom I'm leaving "open" as I'm storing my mini compressor below there. All I have is a can for flat tyres now!

I hear you on the dynamat, the rears are running from the deck and will get the massive 18 watts RMS the 9887 pumps out. Add to that they'll be spared the bass via the deck, I don't expect a lot of resonance from the rear doors.

Fronts are a different matter, and I have a lot of dynamat left just for the front doors, and the boot panels once I get it working. The front Pro's, will get 187 rms watts from the Soundstream, as they are 3 ohm. I expect a lot more resonance there! Any advice where you'd crossover the mids and sub?

Added 500mL to the box volume today, so as near i can approximate with garbage bags filled with water, I've got the desired 8.5L. Spent today making sure it's air tight, solid, and painted all the mdf just in case it gets wet.

[Greg Roles]

OK, well my amp is wired up and the sub is powered, and performing quite nicely for a "rough" gain/sub level setup. Still playing with the crossover in the Alpine, but seems that 80Hz with a 12db rolloff on the doors and 6db on the sub is sounding pretty nice. Hard to make a system suit everything from Techno to U2 to FM radio, but I guess I can store several Eq curves and swap to suit. What do you legend audio types do?

So far only have the rear door Boston's in, running from the deck, once I get the Pro's into the front doors in the next several days, I hope to do some more fine tuning. Without a lot of exploration in the boot, it seems the only "rattle" is the boot vent system, on the passenger side behind the carpet ( below my sub setup ). This is doing what it has done in previous cars, and the rubber flaps are buzzing after every kick. Can't hear it in the drivers seat, but with the boot open it's very obvious. Apart from that I can only make the outer door handles rattle, pretty happy with the lack of rattling overall !

The downside is my sub fascia looks friggen horrible, and is nowhere near the right shape. Is airtight and doing the job nicely for a little 8", but I'm so ashamed I don't even want to post a pic!

Version #2 fascia will be next on the list!

Also after some ideas for some nice sub bars to protect the speaker, as it's on top of the "box, and a stock 8" grill from Jaycar isn't "deep" enough.

[benno]

Greg how do you find it without the mid range drivers in the front doors and the bass driver back by your thigh?

I have a pair of Herts splits I want to chuck in but I'm wondering about this... and how much of an issue is speaker depth for the 6.5"?

Any tips for door trim removal?

[Greg Roles]

You won't believe it mate, but I've yet to finish the front door installs. Driuver and tweeter into passenger, but still have to pass the wire through to the door. Yet to do drivers side. Hope to get it done in the next week or sa, as I'm hoping to start a new job, and at first my spare time will be minimal.

Doors come off easy, grab handle outer levers off, torx in the handle and two at the bottom, then clips around the base and sides, disconnect window and speakers, and unhook door opener. Just take your time and be careful.

I'll update the thread and answer your question once I have them installed and powered!

[benno]

Doors come off easy, grab handle outer levers off, torx in the handle and two at the bottom, then clips around the base and sides, disconnect window and speakers, and unhook door opener. Just take your time and be careful.
!

Can you elaborate on this at all? I'm struggling with the passenger side at the moment. I think I can see how the drivers side goes.

I can't get the trim around the grab handle off, and I presume there's some fixings in there.

Also, the door handle?

[Greg Roles]

Well a big thanks to Benno, who has motivated me to flippin finish my stereo install. Too many projects on the go at the moment, but seems to always be the way, so I just got stuck into it.

So a big thanks mate!

I did run thick wires right to the speaker, and actually found going through the door wire shrouds relatively easy, there was certainly plenty of room, and even a nice gap in the metal down the bottom.

So today all I've left to do is hook up the crossovers in the front, then it's tuning time.

I sent the following e-mail direct to Boston Acoustics, who are exceptional in their response time, but the reply does confuse me a little. Perhaps some of you guys can explain it to me.

My e-mail: ******************************************

I've just finished installing some Pro60's in the front, some S60's rear, and a nice G108 sub in a VW hatchback. The sub is in the recommended 8.5L sealed enclosure runing 2 ohm.
Fronts and sub amplified, with plenty of headroom in the amp, an old US Soundstream VGA 500.4. Sadly I don't have the clever Q of a Boston amp, but can adjust the Hawkins control in both Hz and boost if necessary.

I'm about to start tuning it, and wondered if you could suggest a good starting point for the HPF out of my Alpine 9887, specifically to aim for non localised bass from the rear.

I was thinking somewhere 70-100Hz for the sub at 6bd rolloff, same setting for the rears at 12db, and perhaps 10Hz overlap in the fronts at 12/24db. Component setups, F / R at -2db tweets. The front tweets are in the A-pillar so perhaps -4db?

************************************************** ****
here's the reply, but it's the GAP that has me confused...

Hello Greg,

I would set the interiors to a HPF of 125 Hz, the sub at about 90-100 Hz or lower depending on your style of music. Set your tweeter to 0Db for best sound and S/Q. If you want your bass to drag set the sub to a higher octave (24) if you want it fast and punch set it to (12db). Thank you taking pride in S/Q, I do not see that too much anymore.



Why the gap between mids and sub????

[Greg Roles]

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/03/DSCF2127-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/03/DSCF2136-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/03/DSCF2131-1.jpg

[Greg Roles]

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/03/DSCF2132-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/03/DSCF2130-1.jpg

Wiring is even better now you wire nazi's...

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/03/DSCF2133-1.jpg

Amp hardly ever get's warm, but so too has it only been powering the sub a bit...

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/03/DSCF2135-1.jpg

[benno]

Nice.

So you put your 6.5" driver in the stocko plastic ring as well? It seems pretty decent to me with a bit of dynamat added, and it seals properly in the door card.

That gap between mids/sub seems odd to me... maybe he got the numbers backwards? I.e 125 hz for the sub and 90-100 for the splits?

You don't live in Toowong/Auchenflower do you? I've seen a grey GT TDI with roof racks around there...

[Greg Roles]

The stock plastic ring is solid enough for me, I bolted mine back in as well as silastic, and as you say a little dynamat and it's plenty good enough. That and the fact I just want to finish this install!!

My only concern with the high mount tweets is that they will be too "harsh". Also, given they are flush, will throw the focus down according to an interesting article on acoustic centres I read on the soundstream site. Several interesting articles on there, and I took the guys advice about "porting" the parcel shelf to let more bass into the cabin, and cut the inner edge off the parcelshelf, where the fold line is.

With the boot shut there's a finger width gap along the parcel shelf which I think will do the job nicely. I didn't notice much more, if any road noise withthe parcel entirely out, so I don't see any issue.

I will only own up to working at Toowong if I haven't cut you off, flipped you the bird, or whistled at your girlie.

[benno]

My only concern with the high mount tweets is that they will be too "harsh". Also, given they are flush, will throw the focus down according to an interesting article on acoustic centres I read on the soundstream site. Several interesting articles on there,

Hmmm just DLd a few articles. I'd kinda like to experiment with position of the tweeters etc, but I'm not sure I can be bothered. I wonder if new tweeter trim panels are available?



I will only own up to working at Toowong if I haven't cut you off, flipped you the bird, or whistled at your girlie.
Nah but you were parked just around the corner from my sisters place :mad:

[Mr ©harisma]

You only really need to try the tweeter mounting in about 4 places:
- High in the kick panels
- Near the woofer on the door
- At the base of the A pillar
- At the section where the windscreen meets the dash

Try those places at different angles wit blu tac and see how you like it. If you mount it down low, be sure not to attenuate the tweeter.

[Greg Roles]

Well it's all done, and in, and all I can say is WOW. The teewts in the A pillar, on zero db gives a nice high, slightly up front sound stage, even without time alignment. Leave em where they are Benno!

Ran just the F/R mids over the weekend while the new fascia for the sub was allowed to dry, and I experimented getting the gains just right with absolutely no effect or equaliser, and the sound was good even then. With a rock Eq curve and some Apline MX effect, the mid bass kick and top end response was just awesome. It's a bit "bright" in the mid upper somewhere, but I picked up a simple DB meter today from Jaycar, and have a pink noise CD coming, so I will be able to work out a nice even eq setting and tune by taste from there.

As for the little G1008 8" woofer, I just can't believe the bass kick that is coming out of it, spent a lot of time working out my poorly described VGA amp, and I had the input voltage setting too high for the Alpine preouts. Now it's back to <4V the response is just amazing. Whilst it doesn't go quite as low as a 12" in a big box, I have to say that it's performing down to around 40Hz, and with a bit of boost at about 40Hz as recommended by Boston, it's just superb. At a 12db rolloff it's a very tight kick. I'm amazed a little woofer can sound this good. It's not rattling the rear vision mirror like a big 12" does, but I'm sure feeling the bass through my ribs, and even at 80Hz hpf it's quite non localised. I set the mids at 125Hz rear and 100Hz front for now, and it is a pretty darn good sound for a rough tune. Much tweaking to come.

Again a big thanks to Benno, for getting me motivated to do the last 20% to complete the install. I've one rattle in the rear passenger door trim, but apart from that she sounds tight as a drum. Very happy!

The best news is I still have a spare 250RMS sub channel going to waste, so adding a second G1008 would be all too easy....

[Greg Roles]

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/03/001-2.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/03/002-2.jpg

[benno]

Well it's all done, and in, and all I can say is WOW. The teewts in the A pillar, on zero db gives a nice high, slightly up front sound stage, even without time alignment. Leave em where they are Benno!


hmm interesting. I find it kinda low... would love to get it a bit higher. I'll wait until I have them amplified before I do anything though.

Sub looks great mate. How bigs your box? :biggrin:

I need an amp and sub dammit. And HU... and money.

People are getting 10"s into that same spot, yeah?

[Greg Roles]

The problem is the volume you have to work with. I reckon you *could* get away with a 10", but I built a box as you can see earlier in this thread, and it came out to 8 litres eggsactly. The G1008 was purchased because it recommends an 8.5L enclosure, so I actually added a 500mL tupperware container and siliconed it over a hole in my box, then covered the heck out of it all with dynamat. I measured my volume with water in garbage bags, and it comes out to as close to 8.5L as I can measure. And yes I went to a lot of trouble to remove bubbles etc!!

The bottom line is the sound is great, and I'm confident I have my sub in an optimal enclosure, at least via the specs. You need a fairly shallow sub to fit the space, forget a big magnet jobbie. I had to remove metal and it was pretty tight with what I did, a 10inch would have to be a rather precise install.

That said Jaycar have a superb 10" woofer, last year anyway, and I put one in a 25L vented box in a Lancer I bought cheap of a girlie, and resold, and the bass response was a selling factor! Sounded great, off a basic Jaycar amp. Sure it's basic stuff, but with careful selection and a good install, it can sound bloody amazing.

Sub was a CS2366 and was $140. Discontinued about a year back, but for the money I reckon it'd be hard to beat. Thing is I'm unsure the exact volume if you sealed the entire area where my lighter grey face is. but if I was on a budget, I'd be looking at these sort of options!

E-bay too, is your friend, and you can do it all bit by bit!

[Greg Roles]

My first results with "my disc" and jaycars cheapie DBL meter...

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/03/dbtest23Mar09-1.jpg

[Greg Roles]

My sub, with eq on....


http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/03/subtest23Mar09-1.jpg

[benno]

So forgive my ignorance...

You're using a test disc and a Jaycar meter to get those figures? Cool.

Where's your crossover point set at? Bit of a dip there at 400hz.

[Greg Roles]

Yep, "my disc" from Sheffield labs, and Jaycars baby $50 db meter. Works fine!

Sub is currently 100hz down, and rears 125 and up, fronts 100hz up ( i think from memory..). I'm amazed the little 8" is performing down around 40hz, you can really see the "lump" the hawkins bass boost in my amp produces.

The whole aim is to see where it's high and low, smooth out the curve with the crossover / Eq and then tune by ear from there. Interesting to note the much better sounding "rock" eq curve doesn't do squat for my 400 hz low point huh. All very interesting, and more late nights tweaking to come. These things let you see where the cross, bass boost and EQ really are needed.

It's very cool to be able to really see what's going on, and I've never gone to this level of trouble before.

DB meter and test disc available to local dubbers of course, but you'd better bring a pizza, or your hot sister.

[Greg Roles]

Well my first parametric attempt isn't so crash hot..... and it doesn't sound that good either! Much to learn about this alpine parametric eq, and it even has adjustable centre freq, which adds to the intrigue / making me look stupid... flat in blue vs "attempt 1" in red. I also changed the crossover, and all the door mids are 125Hz and up, with the sub 100Hz and down. Too many options!!

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/03/24Mar1stparaattvsflat-1.jpg

[Greg Roles]

Seems I'm just as crash hot tweaking the sub below the Bostom recommended boost range at 39Hz. red is tonights attempt at approx 35 and a bit more boost, 2pm over 12pm position. Too much! What a weird valley at 45 odd! Amazingly the little sub is trying to do something now, down towards 20, probably distortion!

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2009/03/subtest24Mar-1.jpg

[benno]

Following it all with interest mate, even if I understand little of it.



able to local dubbers of course, but you'd better bring a pizza, or your hot sister.

I just may take you up on that when I have my install finalised :)

Or should I say if I ever finalise it.... never finished the install in my last car and drove it around unfinished for 10 years or so.

[Greg Roles]

Well that makes two of us mate, I'm fumbling along in this area let me tell ya....

[benno]

Hey Greg how much power is your sub getting?

Still trying to decide on amp options for my car... the Blaupunkt has been sent for a quote to repair, hopefully it's economical to do so. It's rated at 1x190 RMS bridged and supposedly has a frequency response from 10hz up... The thing is so tiny it's hard to believe it makes that much power.

The RE8s that are recommended in this thread look interesting. How power hungry are they guys?

If the Blau can be repaired I'll probably get an Audison for the front stage... some really smoking deals around atm.

After I pay the bloody rego, and first service on the car that is. Grr.

[Greg Roles]

I'm putting a modestly rated 250rms into a 200rms sub at 2ohms. It's plenty. I'd worry more about the subs sensitivity than the RMS of either. My sub is a dual voice coil, and I had two channels available at 125rms at 4ohm each, so I had various ways to wire it up, but chose the highest sensitivity 2 ohm version according to the specs. I see no need to go for a bigger sub personally, and actually turn this sub down at the lights because I'm conscious of the doof it produces! Drop by and have a listen sometime. If I come across another 8" boston cheap enough I may put one in the other side to use that spare channel I currently have. But one is doing an awesome job, for me anyway. Might not be enough for you young'ins runnin around robbin banks all smacked up on scooby snacks.:biggrin:

Those RE-8's look similar to the one I have, and I'd have to rate the Bostons performance highly. It doesn't do much below 30Hz and keep a nice slope, but the SQ sound for the compact install is awesome. Smaller subs are nice and cheap too. If I didn't have a boner for boston stuff, I'd get an RE-8 and be very happy.

When I was planning this stereo just prior to getting the car, I looked into a small digital amp, such as alpine, but read somewhere about poor low end response being the downside. Not sure how true this is, but I guess to get it so small you have to compromise something?? Hence me getting another monster old school USA amp that I had owned before and had good results with. It is far from compact!

[Greg Roles]

RE-8's $182 shipped from USA on e-bay at the moment, not sure where you can get them locally.

[benno]

FHRX in Sydney are actually offering free shipping atm, and the RE8 is $189 from them ;-)

Yeah I've heard d class amps *may* have a bit less response at lower freqs, but unless I get a 4ch AB amp that will fit under the front passenger seat at a reasonable price the Blau will have to do.

I can actually get a Steg 4x45 under there, which should be good for roughly 150RMS for a sub (apparently they make significantly better than advertised figures). Maybe I should just do that.

I'm not sure this low frequency response of a d class amp really matters all that much with an 8" sub anyway... ?

[Mr ©harisma]

Image Dynamics make a tough little 8inch in the ID range. May be worth a look.