How to mod a late booster for MK1.

[Peter Jones]

Holiday workshop time again.

Today I'm modifying a Cordoba booster to fit in a MK I.

I purchased a MKIII booster and 22mm master cylinder from Valver to do this mod with but I also had a complete Seat setup here as well. I didn't realise how similar they are.

No problems - I need two boosters/cylinders anyway:)

I started on the Cordoba booster because I thought some practice would be a good idea, I'm not so fussed if I bugger up the Cordy booster.

As some of you are aware the boosters out of the later cars bolt up but they have a ball linkage rather than a yoke and clevis pin setup.

I pulled a MKI booster setup out of a wreck to take measurements from.

By my reckoning its 129mm from the mounting surface to the centre of the clevis pin.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/B4-1.jpg

Here's the before shots - before I get too carried away.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b1-1.jpg

MK III booster on the left, Cordoba booster and cylinder on the right.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/B2-1.jpg

[Peter Jones]

There's a limit of 4 pics per post - so bear with me here.

Measurement shots of new boosters.
Seat

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b6-1.jpg

MKIII

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b5-1.jpg

MK I

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/B4-1.jpg

Hmm lunch has just arrived - stand by for more later.

[Jarred]

haha pausing for lunch. THis will be interesting to see. I await part 2 with much anticpation! I'm surprised how similar in size the mk3/cordy booster is with the mk 1 unit. should make for easier modification I geuss?

[Peter Jones]

Now to work.

I wanted to thread this conversion to allow for adjustment if I got it wrong. The yoke came off the old cylinder assisted with a bit of heat.

Interestingly the yoke that is on the rod across the engine bay is identical except that it has an M8 x 1.25 thread inside of it rather then the M10x1.5 of the booster yoke. I'll drill that out and tap a M10 thread into it to do the other booster with.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b8-1.jpg

There's not much to hold on to in order to turn a die down the Cordoba booster shaft which is conveniently 10mm diameter. So the plan here is to grind the ball on top down to a square that the die will pass over but still be enough to clamp in a vice.

I used a bench grinder for this but I'm a little worried about whatever's inside the booster melting from the heat so every now and then I dip the ground end of the booster rod into a bucket of water to cool it down.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b9-1.jpg

Yes that shaft is a little bent at the tip, I wasn't too gentle with it when I wrecked the Cordoba. Never mind I'm going to cut that bit off anyway.

This should make it a little clearer. The thread size is M10x1.5

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b10-1.jpg

Good idea, but the shaft is too thin below the ball for the torque of the die and it snapped off. There's still plenty of length to get rid of so I ground some new flats on the shaft.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b11-1.jpg

[Peter Jones]

Here's what it looks like.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b12-1.jpg

A couple of careful measurements later, I simply cut off the excess with a hacksaw, holding it in the vice as before.

I really wanted to put a jam nut onto the shaft to lock the yoke against but normal nuts were too thick. So I made a thin one!

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b13-1.jpg You could do this with a hacksaw and file if you don't have a lathe handy. You only need one square face on the nut .

I'm afraid the last bit is a bit of an anti - climax, you just screw it all together!

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b14-1.jpg

I left the shaft a couple of threads longer for adjustment if I needed it later on. There's nothing that will foul on them in the mechanism.

And a quick measurement before adjusting, pretty close I'd say! (Actually spot on, but its hard to hold the ruler and take photos at the same time!)

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b15-1.jpg

I'll triple check the length and add some loctite for luck before I tighten the thing together. Now I'll pull it all apart and clean it all up for a coat of paint.

I'll add some more photos of it all installed in a few days. If anyone wants more detail, measurements or pics sing out and I'll add them to the thread.

I guess I'd better go and do the MKIII booster now while it's all still fresh in my head and the tools are out.

Pete

[Peter Jones]

A left over photo of the 22mm 16v Master cylinder to go on the MKIII booster. There's not as many ports on these so I'm going to ditch the brake switches off the master cylinder and install a mechanical one off the pedal directly.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/B3-1.jpg

[gldgti]

this has been said before, to me, by our founding father brackie - now pete I say it to you -

"you are a man after my own heart!"

brilliant! fantastic writeup, great discriptions, good clear easy to follow instructions. If a monkey could read, i reckon he'd have his golf as good as yours!

well done!.... now, to find a cordoba booster for myself...

[Peter Jones]

Just remember you'll need the master cylinder too. The rod length inside the booster is different. I'll try and get some pics later on. The late cylinders only have 4 ports while the MKI ones have 6. You could get around this with T pieces or do as I'm intending to do - loose the brake light switches in favour of a mechanical pedal based swith.

Maybe I should hit Matt (Golf Loon) up for a commission for the surge in Cordoba booster/cylinder sales!

Pete

[alex g]

nice work pete

has been a productive few eeks for you

great to see some quality engineering / fab going on

[Peter Jones]

Here's why you can't run the later booster with the early master cylinder.

The MK I booster's internal rod protrudes slightly from the booster, by a few mm.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b16-1.jpg

Whereas with the Late boosters the rod is about 25mm down inside the booster.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b17-1.jpg

[Peter Jones]

The more I look at the Cordoba and MK III booster the more alike they look. I suspect they're interchangeable parts. That would make sense as they're practically the same car.

The only obvious difference is that the Cordoba has 4 studs to mount it to the firewall and the MKIII one has only 2. I guess you could always cut two off the Cordoba one to Make it fit in a MKIII if you had to. Otherwise they measure up the same in all dimensions.

Here's comparison shots front and rear.
From left to right - Seat - MKIII - MK1

(I'd started to paint the Cordy booster at this point)

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b19-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b18-1.jpg

[Peter Jones]

Here's some shots for anyone that wants to know the Diameter of the boosters.

Cordoba

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b20-1.jpg

MKIII

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b21-1.jpg

MK I

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b22-1.jpg

[Peter Jones]

Seat Master Cylinder FYI

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b23-1.jpg

[Peter Jones]

I only had one reservoir bottle and needed another. Valver suggested that the Golf / Seat ones weren't terribly attractive and suggested a reservoir off a N13 Nissan Pulsar would do the trick.

I have no idea what an N31 Nissan Pulsar looks like but I found the Nissan isle at the wreckers, popped a lot of hoods and came up trumps with a couple of these.

Cleaning up nicely here in the parts washer.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b25-1.jpg

[Peter Jones]

A detailed shot of the end of the MKI booster FYI.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b24-1.jpg

[Peter Jones]

The yokes on that bar across the back of the engine bay are the same casting as the one on the end of the booster, they're just machined differently.

One end is M8 with a left hand thread and the other is M8 with a right hand thread as you would expect from a tie rod. The left handed one is designated by a groove machined into the collar.

Both of these ends could be drilled and tapped to M10 and be used to convert more boosters.

The hole across the end for the pin is the same in all cases - 10mm diameter.

Here's a tip for you youngsters at home - To measure the diameter of a hole use the shank of a drill bit as a gauge.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b26-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b27-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b28-1.jpg

[Peter Jones]

And just one last shot tonight of a MK I booster in it's natural environment.

(Before I pull it out of there!)

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/b29-1.jpg

[Peter Jones]

And now it's time to actually bolt it in!

Move the cables and expansion bottle out of the way. Pull the reservoir off the master cylinder. Unplug the brake light switches.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/q15-1.jpg


Undo the brake lines and remove the master cylinder. A dose of WD40 the night before is a good idea.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/q16-1.jpg


I found the easiest way to get the booster off is to remove the entire assembly from the fire wall along with the transverse tie rod. It's easiest to get at the linkage clip on the other side of the engine bay and pull the whole rod out wit the lot. The "box" the the booster is attached to comes out with three bolts inside the cabin below the glovebox, right next to the heater pipes.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/q17-1.jpg


Better have a clean up in there and tidy up that wiring!

The removed assembly.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/q18-1.jpg


Stay tuned space cadets!

[Peter Jones]

Setting up the linkage.

The Booster rod in this car measured 130mm so I adjusted the new booster to match. I found it easiest to build it up as an assembly on the bench. I resisted the urge to paint the linkages :) and just cleaned them up as well as greasing all the pins and joints.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/w1-1.jpg

Bolted together with new M8 nylocks. I managed to drag the MK I rubber boot over the booster neck, it was a bit of a tight fit though.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/w2-1.jpg

Assembly bolted up to the firewall.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/w3-1.jpg

[Jarred]

wow pete, what a write up! Very informative and well presented., and you have a lathe! comes in handy aye?

the mk 1 community thanks you. Or at least I do.
oh and p.s. what do you have covering the top of your strut towers?

[Peter Jones]

Cylinder attached.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/w4-1.jpg

Vacuum line attached (after testing). and brake lines attached. Bending the lines is a bit fiddly but so long as you take your time and take it easy you'll avoid kinking the lines.

I'm going to install a brake switch directly off the pedal rather than use the hydraulic switches. You could plumb in T pieces and run the switches of them if you wanted to use the hydraulic switches.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/w5-1.jpg


Nissan Pulsar reservoir fitted up.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/w7-1.jpg


I was a bit worried the expansion tank wouldn't fit but it clears the booster by just enough.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/w8-1.jpg

[Peter Jones]

Because the new booster isn't as deep as the old one and the cylinder is shorter there's actually more room in the engine bay which is a pleasant surprise. Maybe enough room for my next air horn project. j:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/w9-1.jpg

[mollins]

nice work mate... very impressive

I love using later model golf/seat stuff on mk1s. Keeps stuff "original"-looking but much more usable and reliable. Seat brakes especially, as the mk1s stoppers were never very good!!

this is the sort of writeup that makes vwwatercooled so useful! mods, please put this in the friggin awesome section so it can be found easily and never disappers.

keep up the good work

mike

ps ... love the horns.. do it.. you know you want to

[Peter Jones]

wow pete, what a write up! Very informative and well presented., and you have a lathe! comes in handy aye?

the mk 1 community thanks you. Or at least I do.
oh and p.s. what do you have covering the top of your strut towers?

Those are strut top covers! Every Golf left the factory with them but few survived. I was lucky and found a pair in a wreckers on a GLD. I'd never seen a pair before then.

They stop dirt getting into the bearing on top of the strut.

I reckon you could find caps off another car with struts that would do the same job. Take a wander through a self service wrecker and see what you can find.

The lathe is very handy, I'm still learning how to use it. I can only do very basic stuff. It's very small, you'll never get a brake disc or a clutch on there. Great for nuts and bolts and just making things fit. Good for making up pins, stepbolts, bushes etc. I wish I could get the hang of the cut-off tool though. I usually resort to cutting the piece long with a hacksaw and trimming the end in the lathe.

Pete

[Jarred]

Those are strut top covers! Every Golf left the factory with them but few survived. I was lucky and found a pair in a wreckers on a GLD. I'd never seen a pair before then.
..

ah... I see. MIght fab some up out of something, if they are as rare as they are. What are they made, looks like plastic from here??

Mods. how bout a sticky on this thread perhaps?

[Peter Jones]

ah... I see. MIght fab some up out of something, if they are as rare as they are. What are they made, looks like plastic from here??

Mods. how bout a sticky on this thread perhaps?

Yep,plastic. I'll pop up a close up later on when it isn't 100 degrees out in my driveway.:D

Pete

[alex g]

There's a limit of 4 pics per post - so bear with me here.






by the way pete i spoke with the other moderators and the images per post has been changed to 10 as it was something that always peeved me too

[Peter Jones]

by the way pete i spoke with the other moderators and the images per post has been changed to 10 as it was something that always peeved me too

Cool!

FYI I resize everything to 800x600 so they'll fit on anybody's screen. Then I crop them if there's irrelevant stuff on the edges to save everyone's bandwidth (hence the oddly shaped images sometimes). So the biggest image I'll use is 800x600 - the originals are 2304 x 1728 if anybody wants more detail.

I host everything on Photobucket so I guess it'll be available for a long time, the links should never expire hopefully.

Pete

[ValveBounce]

Great Write up Pete!
I used to work at a joint that had 2 lathes, But I never thought about doin the stuff you do!
Keep it goin!

[425i]

I read in Australian model engineering magazine that after 40 years practice with cut off tools become easy to use.
They advised that until you have 40 years experience use a hacksaw.
I know a guy who built a full size triple expansion steam engine and he uses a hacksaw.
The best way i have found is to take off as much as you dare with the part off tool and then hacksaw through the rest with the lathe turning as this makes it much quicker.
The worse thing is persisting with the part off tool and then just when you think you are going to do it this time it catches and it bends at 90 degrees right were you are trying to part off and the job goes bang bang bang into the bed of the lathe . Followed by a clunk as you chuck it in the bin

Nick

[Peter Jones]

I read in Australian model engineering magazine that after 40 years practice with cut off tools become easy to use.
They advised that until you have 40 years experience use a hacksaw.
I know a guy who built a full size triple expansion steam engine and he uses a hacksaw.
The best way i have found is to take off as much as you dare with the part off tool and then hacksaw through the rest with the lathe turning as this makes it much quicker.
The worse thing is persisting with the part off tool and then just when you think you are going to do it this time it catches and it bends at 90 degrees right were you are trying to part off and the job goes bang bang bang into the bed of the lathe . Followed by a clunk as you chuck it in the bin

Nick

That makes me feel a bit better! :) Thanks Nick!

Pete

[Peter Jones]

I could have sworn I had the brake pedal switch out of the Cordoba I wrecked around here somewhere! Never mind a quick scrounge the the many boxes in my garage and I came up with this brake switch arrangement. Anybody recognise the parts?

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/01/e2-1.jpg


If you guessed "Normally Closed reed switch from a domestic alarm sysytem" - Congratulations! j:

I traced the wires from the original switches to under the dash, wired in a relay and used the reed switch to control it.

As a bonus I now get a re-assuring click from the relay when I use the brakes, It's nice to know that the brake lights are working.

This may not be permanent, I'll see how it goes for now.

It all sits up out of the way of your feet. Adjusting it wasn't too bad, only took a few minutes to get the spacing right.

Pete

[Valver.]

Great work!!!!!! :D

[Peter Jones]

But how does it all work?

Just to recap what parts have been changed.

Cordoba 20.6mm Master cylinder and Booster.
Cordoba Rear drum brakes.
New standard solid discs.
'79 GLS calipers (see photos above for style)
Two new front brake lines.
Penrite brake fluid.

Well first off it does actually stop the car in a much shorter distance than the old brakes.

Very little pedal effort is needed to get the front tyres (195/60/14 G'Grids) scrabbling for traction. I suspect the lack of wheel alignment is causing them to loose traction a little sooner than they should at the moment.

Subjectively the old brakes felt firmer and more effort was required but I don't think the old booster was working which is what started me on the journey.

I have a theory that as both my cars were GLDs the boosters were dimensioned to work with the diesel vacuum pump and not manifold vacuum. I imagine that a dedicated pump would produce a better vacuum and the booster wouldn't need to be as big as a petrol motor. Comments anyone?

I took the car for a blast through an industrial estate with good visibility a no traffic and tried a few hard stops. Pedal feel is soft compared to the basically unassisted system that was before. but there's not doubt you're going to stop! Braking distances are much shorter. Rear proportioning seems about right. The car pulls up in a straight line and didn't exhibit any tendency to pull to either side nor was there any steering wheel input required to keep it straight.

After the run the front brakes were smoking from the fresh paint baking on. They were pretty hot and the rears were hot too but not nearly as hot as the fronts.

I couldn't get the back to break away with a mid corner stab on the brakes so I guess the front rear balance is about right. There's no rear load proportioning valve in this model BTW. The rear wheels are plumbed straight to the master cylinder.

I copied the plumbing methodology of the original system which is the same as the Cordoba and connected the wheels in a diagonal split. That is to say Front left and rear right work off one circuit and vice versa for the other circuit..

Having boosted brakes again is going to take a little getting used to. With the vacuum disconnected the pedal is rock hard and engages quite high, with the vacuum connected the booster seems to do all the work for you.

I'm running out of time these holidays to pop the other booster and 22mm master cylinder into my other car - that might have to wait a little while for when I've got a weekend free.


Pete

[Jarred]

good to hear pete. might have to have a crack at this someday.

[Golf Loon]

Fantastic write up Pete.

I reckon the Cordy and Mk3 boosters are the same except for the mounting tabs.

I always swop over the booster and master cylinder together. Mixing and matching wont work.

I hae seen the rod welded on before, but your way is better and neater.

FYI guys a Toledo is like a Mk2 in that it has the bigger booster and master, but with the correct fitting for a Mk1 already on the end!

I have plenty of Cordy and Toledo Boosters for anyone that wants and Pete will get his commission ;)

[Oneofthegreats]

Absolutely awesome write up Pete on this thread & all your other braking thread's.

Very clear instruction's & picture's to go along with the before & afters.

These types of thread's are what make's this forum a great place to visit & also help's out any DIY'er.

It's an absolute credit to have you on here.

There's no way I'd have the patience to go through & post up all the pic's.

Can't wait for the next project.

[pepperwhite]

Peters way is obviously better but this way takes 5 mins (if you have a mig handy)

do the required measurements
grind down the stem (sorry the photo is bad.)

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/02/boost1-1.jpg

weld
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/02/boost-1.jpg

cheerio

[Peter Jones]

Bump for the newcomers who haven't seen this thread before, there's been a bit of interest in the subject again.

Pete

[Retired]

Awesome write up Peter.

Cheers for that.

Loon: Does the Toledo set up just fit straight on pretty much?

[foc64]

Peter, quick thanks for the info in this post as I've now modded and installed a Cordoba booster & master cylinder in my MK1. Haven't been able to test the results yet as I still need a few things like suspension, brakes and wheels to set the car on to terra firma!

Chris

[Golf Loon]

Loon: Does the Toledo set up just fit straight on pretty much?

Yes it has the correct clevis pin arrangement. It must come from a car WITHOUT abs though, as those boosters are on an angle!

[gldgti]

Yes it has the correct clevis pin arrangement. It must come from a car WITHOUT abs though, as those boosters are on an angle!

and only have 2 ports

[hiho]

twas just about to fit a cordoba booster modded as per Petes instructions when the vacuum pump died!

I have actually modded three now, one for each of my cars and one for a friend. I decided to use tee's to enable the use of the hydraulic brake light switches. For each tee (removed from the cordoba the booster came off), im having a short section of brake line made up.

[gldgti]

twas just about to fit a cordoba booster modded as per Petes instructions when the vacuum pump died!

I have actually modded three now, one for each of my cars and one for a friend. I decided to use tee's to enable the use of the hydraulic brake light switches. For each tee (removed from the cordoba the booster came off), im having a short section of brake line made up.

cool idea, saves some wiring up i guess - personally, i like the change to the pedal switch because it really tidies up the engine bay :-)

[karmen]

i used to repair Mercedes / ate boosters in the 80's
they can be opened up and altered other ways as u would know

[dub be good to me]

Hey all, I have a Cordoba Booster and MC, but the MC only has 2 outlets. Anyone know if I a 4 outlet Cordoba MC is a straight swap?
I.e, will it fit up to the brake booster, the bolt holes look to stay the same across most MCs but what abt the rod connection (booster > MC)?

Don't want to have to replace the booster as well if I can help it!

[gldgti]

Hey all, I have a Cordoba Booster and MC, but the MC only has 2 outlets. Anyone know if I a 4 outlet Cordoba MC is a straight swap?
I.e, will it fit up to the brake booster, the bolt holes look to stay the same across most MCs but what abt the rod connection (booster > MC)?

Don't want to have to replace the booster as well if I can help it!

yes, it should be. the 2 outlet one is for abs cars, hte 4 is for non abs. straight swap.

[dub be good to me]

Thanks for that, I've posted a 'Wanted to Buy (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?p=411656#post411656)'..

Was thinking of drilling and tapping my 2 outlet MC..
The casting is structured as if it was made for 4 outlets, but only 2 were drilled in the factory.

I figured I could remove the internals then drill and tap it to the required thread.

Does anyone have any experience with this? Kinda hesitant to mess with it if it is potentially dangerous..

[Jarred]

Hey Pete. I'm in the middle of doing this atm, any more info on how you wired up the switch/relay?

EDIT: some more info.

I've got the reed switch & 30A 4 pin relay.

The original setup has 3 wires:
-Red w.Black
-Blue & Brown
-Red w.Yellow
I've located all these going into the back of the fuse box.

With the relay I've got:
30 - 12Vdc
85 - Earth
86 - ?
87 - ?

with the switch:
Com - Earth
NC - ?

Pretty sure I have to connect the NC to 86, and 87 to the taillights. Or am I way off?

TIA!

[Peter Jones]

I forget exactly which wire it is, I'll have to crawl under the dash and have a look.

There's just one wire involved and all you need to do is earth it through your new pedal switch. From memory it was yellow.

Pete

[Jarred]

So it was just the wiring from the orig wiring straight to the reed switch? No 'need' for the relay then?

[Peter Jones]

Yeah, don't bother with the relay. Not enough current to bother.

Just work out which wires to bridge and run them to the switch.

Pete

[GRN_VAGN]

so you only need 1 wire from that group of 3 to actually trigger the brake lights?

If you could provide a little more info pete that would be tops.
I will be doing this swap in next week or so, Got the bigger drums, Cordoba Booster, and a Audi Master Cylinder (i think)

Cheers

[Peter Jones]

On your Mk1 There will be a small loom connecting the 2 switches to each other and a connector into the loom.

Remove that and throw it away. From the loom connectors take note of the colour of the two wires (There's only two on a MK1)

Find the other end of the wires under the dash, they'll be in the A plug in the back of the Fuse box. Cut 'em and attach your switch wiring there.

Unplug the A connector and use a multimeter to confirm you've got the right wires.

You could just replace your hydraulic switches too, they only last 30 years or so, a new mechanical one probably won't last as long.

Pete

[GRN_VAGN]

yeah, id rather the pedal switch, my lights tend to not work sometimes :P pretty unsafe.

Cheers for info mate.

[Peter Jones]

Bump. There seems to be a few people interested in this topic again.

[Shadow_Rusty]

Due to a really bad brake booster on my Mk1 Cabby, I've gotten my hands on a Mk3 brake booster and master cylinder for this mod...

Quick question though, as the Mk3 was 4 wheel disc, and the Mk1 is 2x disc and 2x drum, will I need a restrictor of some sort in the rear brake lines???

THanks guys...

Update:
Looks like I have another issue now...
The Mk3 I salvaged the parts from, only had 2 outlets on the master cylinder...

Now I need to chase up a couple of t-pieces...

[pepperwhite]

I found some on a w201 Mercedes at the wreckers.




Update:
Looks like I have another issue now...
The Mk3 I salvaged the parts from, only had 2 outlets on the master cylinder...

Now I need to chase up a couple of t-pieces...

[nickosy]

Does anyone know the part number or a link for the master cylinder as I've got a mk3 one with abs so it only has two ports instead of 4.

[Peter Jones]

You can just use T pieces. Remember to keep the diagonal split when you put it back together..