Loose ends

[Siggers]

Hi Guys,

Just a small new thread for some other things in the Bora I am wanting some input from you guys, if you do t mind.

I have two codes in the system, a cam sensor and an air intake temp sensor, the cam sensor seems pretty straight forward however the AIT has slightly stumped me, could stone shed some light on that?

My red screen in the cluster is very hard to read in the day, is this a common problem?

My temp gauge goes Up and down all the time, sometimes not even working, however on my scan tool it seems like the temp s are fine???

Thanks in advance for your input.

[dylan8]

Custer being hard to read is common once it gets warm. 25deg+ day and I start to loose bits of mine.

[LeStig]

Replace your temp gauge sender and that will sort fluctuations. Located at front of engine held in by circlip. 5 min job.
check all the plastic intake pipes for a split.... common issue
As Dylan states cluster prob once temps go above mid twenties inside .... prob not worth the expense of replacing or repairing

[Siggers]

Thanks guys, I wasn't sure about the temp sensor as it appeared fine on the scan tool and thought it could be related to a poor connection to the LCD screen, however it would appear as though it's the normal issues.

Thanks guys I'll check the hoses and get those sensors cashed out and report back

[Fatty]

yeah I get the same thing with the little red lcd display on my instrument panel on hot days. I was playing with the idea of replacing it with something a little clearer

[Siggers]

I do know that all lcds have a contrast setting, seeing as how it's only dull, I had a look online to see if anyone had the same idea, there was, I followed most of his advise, however I will be using a different resister to him, this is how it has turned out so far, you can see it without the resister, almost can't see anything, with it much better, once I get the right one, it should be sweet.

Video of the difference
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/A6380B94099C4E979CD9BEA744B79465_zpsplcp-2.jpg (http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g139/siggers_2006/Bora/A6380B94-099C-4E97-9CD9-BEA744B79465_zpsplcp00rr.mp4)

Before
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/22C8DFE365E14E3DA17DD69E06DA7FE4_zpswyhd-1.jpg (http://s55.photobucket.com/user/siggers_2006/media/Bora/22C8DFE3-65E1-4E3D-A17D-D69E06DA7FE4_zpswyhdmcio.jpg.html)

After
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/52A766C388A54C22A289E5FA973B9AC0_zpswh3u-1.jpg (http://s55.photobucket.com/user/siggers_2006/media/Bora/52A766C3-88A5-4C22-A289-E5FA973B9AC0_zpswh3utq1x.jpg.html)

[dylan8]

Interesting! Keen to see how this goes

[Siggers]

So far not much luck with the resisters I have on hand (they are quite close together in ohms), going to buy a Potentiometer tomorrow and install a variable contrast dial for it, that way I can set it to what I want.

[Siggers]

So I ended up running with a pot to have a variable contrast, of course I picked up the wrong one so I had to customise it with some additional resisters, which ended up being about 100k of resistance. Depending on how bad your screen is will depend on how much you will require to put inline.


The video of the variable resistance
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/B3F1B92C26854576AD4FF4E5E033DDCC_zpslfbf-2.jpg (http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g139/siggers_2006/Bora/B3F1B92C-2685-4576-AD4F-F4E5E033DDCC_zpslfbfilrx.mp4)

The result
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/4F34BFA1DEFC4326A2CD17E39A4EC46D_zpsq246-1.jpg (http://s55.photobucket.com/user/siggers_2006/media/Bora/4F34BFA1-DEFC-4326-A2CD-17E39A4EC46D_zpsq246uqwb.jpg.html)

Let me know if anyone would like to know how to do this.

[LeStig]

Mine is bright and contrasting up to reasonable cabin temps .... once it heats up I loose definition.

[Siggers]

Yeah, mine is fine during the night and when the inside is at low temps, however the qld heat seas to it that the inside of my car is never below anything reasonable, all those photos and videos are of well over 30deg, car was sitting in direct heat closed up, trust me it was well and truely 40+ deg in the cabin.

To explain a bit more about how this works, lcds have variable contrast, which in basic sense creates different viewing angles as it changes the frequency of the panel, by increasing the contrast you change the viewing angle (and it's brightness ) thus 'repairing' the LCD. Why it changes in higher temps? It's basically the two pieces of glass with the element in the middle of them expanding, which changes the contrast of the screen, as it makes it harder for the LCD to produce its lines. This generally starts on the outside and works it way in. Anywho's, it cost me about $8 because I bought a few different pots and resisters. However it should cost most people about $3.50 and about an hour. Medium soldering skills are required.

[BOR444]

Yeah, mine is fine during the night and when the inside is at low temps, however the qld heat seas to it that the inside of my car is never below anything reasonable, all those photos and videos are of well over 30deg, car was sitting in direct heat closed up, trust me it was well and truely 40+ deg in the cabin.

To explain a bit more about how this works, lcds have variable contrast, which in basic sense creates different viewing angles as it changes the frequency of the panel, by increasing the contrast you change the viewing angle (and it's brightness ) thus 'repairing' the LCD. Why it changes in higher temps? It's basically the two pieces of glass with the element in the middle of them expanding, which changes the contrast of the screen, as it makes it harder for the LCD to produce its lines. This generally starts on the outside and works it way in. Anywho's, it cost me about $8 because I bought a few different pots and resisters. However it should cost most people about $3.50 and about an hour. Medium soldering skills are required.

where in Queensland are you buddy?

Dev.

[aharvey101]

Please, I want to know how to fix this!

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[Siggers]

No dramas, I'll put together a step by step.

[Siggers]

Well I replaced the cam angle sensor, no change, $164 well spent. So I hear this means I need to change the cam chain guides and tensioners? All of them or just the upper ones? I assume this means a gearbox removal if they all need doing? Anyone on here know anyone that can do this?

[beale187]

What's the error code your getting?

[Siggers]

What's the error code your getting?

p0341
p1347
P0113

[beale187]

mmm.... Any performance issues? Misfire? hard to start etc....

[Siggers]

Starts fine, I get what seems to be a miss occasionally, power is lacking down low, and hesitates someone's when accelerating, no check engine light

[LeStig]

I had same codes on 1st Bora. NO issues starting , no misses no problems at all ......
It ran ok I thought but compared to current car Bora 2 - no codes - was down on torque and just generally was sluggish .....

[Siggers]

So I took some readings off the scan tool, unsure if this helps or not, I read somewhere about the timing adjust shouldn't be anymore than 9deg at idle, however I am not quite sure as it jumps around a bit, goes from 5 to about 15 at some stages all at idle no load no ac on

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/EADC74F3980A4E4785E13971CB25017D_zpsop0z-1.jpg (http://s55.photobucket.com/user/siggers_2006/media/Bora/EADC74F3-980A-4E47-85E1-3971CB25017D_zpsop0zuzrt.png.html)

Also as you can see my intake air temp is still erroring, fixing the pcv valve pipe made no difference

[Siggers]

Well it appears as though its just the start of the bad luck with this car.

I got a 5.2k quote for all the issues it has, which he showed me in person all the damaged/worn parts.

So I jumped onto ECS tuning and went to work.

I would like to know if these parts are compatible with my Bora.

Rear inner lateral arm ES#3044597

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-superpro-parts/performance-polyurethane-rear-control-arm-bushings-inner/spf2540k~spr//
(https://www.ecstuning.com/b-superpro-parts/performance-polyurethane-rear-control-arm-bushings-inner/spf2540k~spr/)
Control arm front bushes ES#5387

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/polyurethane-bushing-kit-front-control-arms/ecsttr32cabk//
(https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/polyurethane-bushing-kit-front-control-arms/ecsttr32cabk//)
Coilover install kit ES#2588576

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/cup-kit-coilover-installation-kit/1j0412249kt//
(https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/cup-kit-coilover-installation-kit/1j0412249kt//)
Coilovers ES#2777215

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-solo_werks-parts/solo-werks-s1-coilovers/s1vw005~sow//
(https://www.ecstuning.com/b-solo_werks-parts/solo-werks-s1-coilovers/s1vw005~sow//)
Dogbone mount ES#5669

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/ecs-ultimate-dogbone-mount/ecs198851m// (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/ecs-ultimate-dogbone-mount/ecs198851m//)

[beale187]

My understanding is the MKIV R32 and Bora 4mo share the same suspension setup.

SuperPro website listed the rear bushings are the same part # for both vehicles. The front's, same situation again although these ones are ECS brand the OEM MFG# they replace are the same on both vehicles also.

I've read good things about the ECS dog bone mount, the only issue that appeared to be common was longevity.

My previous Bora had a set of SoloWerks coilovers on it (link below) and the car felt amazing, firm but comfortable. HOWEVER, I didn't have the car long enough to really test them out + the previous owner had done a complete suspension refresh, (adjustable rear control arms), new bushes everywhere etc.... How'd they go alone, without all the other additional mods I couldn't answer that... Read good reviews though

Solo Werks S1 Coilover - VW MKIV 2004 Golf R32 - Solo-Werks Inc. (http://shop.solo-werks.com/solo-werks-s1-coilover-vw-mkiv-2004-golf-r32/)