Mk1 16v Project [Archive] - VWWatercooled Australia

Preen59

05-01-2008, 12:24 PM

Hey guys, I'm building a Mk1 '77 4 door with a KR 1.9 16v on 45 DCOE's.

I started on this car about 2.5 years ago and came to a halt last year due to other commitments and lack of interest. But thanks to my mate buying a Mk1 escort and doing super sprints etc, it's got me all revved up and enthused again to finish it to do the same stuff.

All the progress up untill this point can be found on..

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=34054

That was the website i used to spend a lot of time on before i found out there was actually people in australia that had more that two brain cells and wanted something better than a japanese tupperwear car.

So here's the go, all the exterior is now finished, i recently got some new bumpers and some very second hand side trims off Brenton (DVR68U).

I cleaned the side trims up and painted them satin black, they came up excellent.

The engine is completely disassembled at the moment and the head is away being ported and flowed and having TT oversized valves, TT springs and Titanium retainers fitted. I've knife edged the crank (Tuning and performance section) and the block is currently being cleaned up and checked over ready to be bored etc once i get some pistons.

Also, i'm open to any suggestions from anyone about anything on past experience etc..

Anybody know a good roll cage builder in NSW? Someone who has done golfs before would be tops!

Water Boy

05-01-2008, 12:44 PM

Mate just a suggestion i dont think any of us here are members on VWFixx so post up you pics and reports on here... Much better for us :D

Preen59

06-01-2008, 02:18 PM

Ok, figured you could still check it out though.. I'll copy the originals and put em on here.

Preen59

06-01-2008, 02:29 PM

Right, so here's the car when i got it 4 years ago..

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1108892572.jpg

Started stripping the paint.. This stuff was all mid '05

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1108894210.jpg

Interior

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1108894377.jpg

Front end after everything was removed

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1108894487.jpg

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1115278943.jpg

Breather catch can i made..

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1117093344.jpg

Here's how the engine bay looked

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1117093626.jpg

This is what that engine is:
-Bored and stroked to US spec 1.7l.
-Balanced and countweighted crank.
-11:1 compression pistons(can't remember the brand).
-Head is ported and polished.
-G grind European GTI camshaft.
-44 IDF Weber carburettor.
-modified, ported and port matched inlet manifold to suit weber.
-Custom tuned length 4 into 1 extractors and a 2.5 inch exhaust.
-Lightened flywheel.
-All internals have been balanced.

Front guard stripped

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1117093789.jpg

Roof done

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1117093915.jpg

Hatch with a wiper that i got from melbourne

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1117094129.jpg

The back

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1117094535.jpg

Preen59

06-01-2008, 02:34 PM

Here's another shot when i got it..

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1119781506.jpg

Original interior.. w/scirocco seats

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1119781630.jpg

Front window out..

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1119791545.jpg

When i was making the adjustable cam timing gear..

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1119872411.jpg

After i'd finished it..

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1119945426.jpg

The gear shifter i made plus the timing gear when i put the graduations on it.

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1120047995.jpg

Preen59

06-01-2008, 02:40 PM

Back from the panel beaters.. All painted up in B4B4 candy white! :D

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1130493631.jpg

A pic from the side with the BBS wheels and one pull-out style door handle on it. I got the door handles off Ebay from china for 20 bucks! and they're awesome. They weren't quite right though, had to modify the key locking mechanism to stop them from going over-centre and jamming. But hey.. 20 bucks!

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1130493935.jpg

From the front with the grill in it..

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1130494201.jpg

From the top.

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1130494265.jpg

Preen59

06-01-2008, 02:55 PM

Started the re-assembly

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1133260734.jpg

When i got the new grill badge for it. Genuine VW costed me like 70 bucks. Blood sucking bastards.

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1133426234.jpg

When i finished the hatch.. Which is coming out now for the original, lighter, not wiper one..

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1136086130.jpg

Doing the hood lining.. My old girl made it. She did quite a few in the past on beetles when her and my old man were restoring them. Not bad for a Janomie(not sure how to spell it) sewing m/c. Surprisingly fitting the lining was relatively easy, just start at the back and work your way forward.

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1136118327.jpg
http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1136118429.jpg
http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1136118519.jpg
http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1136118667.jpg
http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1136118752.jpg
http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1136118824.jpg
http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1136118887.jpg
http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1136118988.jpg

We re-did the rear seat too, it didn't come out too perfect though.

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1136119150.jpg

In the shed at home.. Not finished but i wanted to drive it.

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1136119893.jpg

Designed some BBS wheel centre decals and got a mate in town (with a $40000 mimaki sticker printer) to make some stickers for me.

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/uploads/post-243-1136119982.jpg

Preen59

06-01-2008, 03:02 PM

So that pretty much brings you up to date.

Since then, ive knife edged the crank
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/8877/crankfin1xp8.jpg

I've finished the door trims- By the way, GLDGTI made the cards for like 120 bucks, and they fitted very well, so thanks dude! I covered them in black velour with 3 simple seams to break them up a little and they came out brilliant. Very happy with the end results.

http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/750/040120081195smallnf2.jpg

All the exterior is finished now too, and i put FK m3 style tails on it.. They look hot with the white. Its also now got clear front indicators.

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/3638/281220071191smallsr8.jpg

DVR68U

06-01-2008, 04:00 PM

nice job car looks great.
cheers brenton

Oneofthegreats

06-01-2008, 04:35 PM

Nice clean car you've got going on there chief!!

Very understated. Will be cool with the 16V that's for sure.

GoLfMan

06-01-2008, 06:26 PM

thats top shelf that :)
are you a fitter and turner by any chance?

Water Boy

06-01-2008, 07:26 PM

Dude that looks good... R they your other VW's too?

Preen59

06-01-2008, 08:07 PM

Nice clean car you've got going on there chief!!

Very understated. Will be cool with the 16V that's for sure.

Thanks dude, I like my cars to be clean and unassuming.

Oh wait.. I've got a tornado red caddy.. But it's just a caddy ;)

Preen59

06-01-2008, 08:09 PM

thats top shelf that :)
are you a fitter and turner by any chance?

Thanks dude, yeah i am.. And a toolmaker/CNC machinist. You are in a similar trade? Lets not get too off topic with this though.

Preen59

06-01-2008, 08:23 PM

Dude that looks good... R they your other VW's too?

Haha, no, my old man is a mechanic and he specialises in air cooled VW's. He does everything, but that's his specialty, so a lot of the time we've got various Vw's in the workshop.

The really crappy looking white Mk1 goof in the background in that shot with the hatch wiper i owned. Got it for 300 bucks in the blue mountains. Had a reco hyd 1.6 with a twin throat and everything. Beated the balls off it all the way back to orange. :D I used it for some parts i needed then flogged it off for 300 bucks again. Another guy in town (who i bought my car off) bought it and threw the donk in his red 4 door. Goes hard! He also has a mk2 8v turbo pushing 170kw at the wheels. Pretty mean machine. He's on the forum, calls himself twin engine, twin turbs.. Another project he is working on.

So that was way off track huh.

Well i'd better put something here on track. At the moment i've stripped all the interior out and ripped all the sound deadening out etc so that i can seam weld around the doors and drive tunnel etc. So i'll post some more pics of that as it happens.

Well i better get ready for work.. Yes work, i'm working backshift for maintenance at the moment (Mostly for the money to get this car finished)

Jarred

06-01-2008, 08:34 PM

looks good man. i love the white paint, really suits 1's esp with the BBS's! can't wait for this, 16V will be horn!

TassieGTi

07-01-2008, 09:04 AM

Nice, clean project ;) You can't beat that throaty sound of a couple of 45s on a 16v :)

Preen59

07-01-2008, 06:45 PM

Yeah, i've never heard a VW 16v on 45's, but if it sounds anything like a BDA, then we're in business.. :D

16v80

07-01-2008, 07:39 PM

I have twin 45 Dellorto's on a 2L 16v.....they do sound awesome...at low revs they is a nice burble to them, then the higher the revs it turns into a roar....very addictive...very hard to stay under the speed limits

TassieGTi

07-01-2008, 08:13 PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QebAKd8yyfA&feature=related ;):D

GoLfMan

07-01-2008, 08:28 PM

Thanks dude, yeah i am.. And a toolmaker/CNC machinist. You are in a similar trade? Lets not get too off topic with this though.

yup! im a first year apprentice fitter and turner working for Yella Terra :) its good to see what skills i will be learning in the future! atm im just doing alot of CNC machining and stuff but its only the start of it!
true lets not get off topic.

that 16v on carbs should sound the ducks nuts!

Preen59

07-01-2008, 08:58 PM

Yella Terra? Cool. Pitty they don't do euro stuff.

Here's a couple of pics of the cam gear all finished.

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/1128/0701071413smallzl1.th.jpg (http://img233.imageshack.us/my.php?image=0701071413smallzl1.jpg)
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/3527/0801071620smallax8.th.jpg (http://img233.imageshack.us/my.php?image=0801071620smallax8.jpg)

I've gotta make 2 more 16v ones now. One for me and one for loon.

Preen59

07-01-2008, 08:59 PM

Here's a shot of the tail lights too.. Well one of them.. Couldn't push the car far enough away from the wall to take a full rear shot.

Tonight i'm going to take the cam cover into work and wet blast it to bring it up like new. There's some corrosion on the outside of it that i couldn't get off.

Tip- If you want to clean aluminium up, HOT water in a bucket or tub, 2 generous scoops of DRIVE washing powder, mix it up, drop the part in for say 5-10 mins, (Put some rubber gloves on) take the part out and clean the dirt and grime etc off with a scrubbing brush and/or tooth brush. Then just wash it in soapy water (If you don't, the caustic in the washing powder can corrode the alloy over time). Comes up like brand new! My Kart engine builder figured it out. We do it when we strip the engines to rebuild them.

http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/7654/060120081198smallaz3.th.jpg (http://img90.imageshack.us/my.php?image=060120081198smallaz3.jpg)

peedman

07-01-2008, 09:01 PM

Those shiny stuff looks nice :). Sifnt offer a group make on those cam gears lol

Keep it up!

Jarred

08-01-2008, 09:46 AM

I love those tail lights, I want some for my car badly, where did you get yours from and how much if you don't mind be asking?

Preen59

08-01-2008, 06:42 PM

Ebay! I think they came from china.. they're not actually FK i don't think, but they're really good quality and they came with everything supplied, just unscrew the old ones, screw the new ones in and plug them in. I got them at the same time i got the front indicators.

The indicators were like $10 (How can they make them for that?!!)
The tails were $200 inc postage i think.

Just keep your eye out on ebay and don't buy the first set you see. They are on there fairly regularly so just have a look and bide your time before making a purchase.

I love those tail lights, I want some for my car badly, where did you get yours from and how much if you don't mind be asking?

Preen59

08-01-2008, 06:55 PM

Wet blasted the cam cover last night. Came up like new, looks really good. I'm polishing the ribs and the raised collars around the plug holes and then i'm going to spray it wrinkle finish black, with the polished ribs. Should look very no BS like. I'm going for the professional unassuming look with the engine bay too. Hopefully it will come out well.

Here's the cam cover in the vice while i was polishing it this arvo.

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/8240/080120081199smallcd6.th.jpg (http://img87.imageshack.us/my.php?image=080120081199smallcd6.jpg)

Preen59

09-01-2008, 04:46 PM

Finished polishing the cam cover last night. Had some spare time so i thought why not.

Here it is at work at 2 in the morning..
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/364/090120081200smallvr1.th.jpg (http://img132.imageshack.us/my.php?image=090120081200smallvr1.jpg)

And here it is all finished at home this arvo
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/2227/090120081202smallwz3.th.jpg (http://img132.imageshack.us/my.php?image=090120081202smallwz3.jpg)

Next up is the paint. I was going to prime it today... But i went to bed a bit before 8 and woke up at 5! So that kinda buggered it. Tomorrow it is!

Preen59

09-01-2008, 08:22 PM

Now THIS is a real 16v!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8i5G4l6Kkw

That's about as serious as it gets.

Jarred

09-01-2008, 08:33 PM

what colour are you gonna paint it?

Preen59

10-01-2008, 03:17 AM

what colour are you gonna paint it?

I assume you mean the cam cover? Black wrinkle finish.

Jarred

10-01-2008, 09:16 AM

I assume you mean the cam cover? Black wrinkle finish.

oh yea woops, I remeber reading that somewhere now... :rolleyes:

ANd yes, you should get ready in time for nats;)

evorobin

10-01-2008, 10:04 AM

Now THIS is a real 16v!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8i5G4l6Kkw

That's about as serious as it gets.

And this is revving the back out of summat!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mv42vKGJl64&NR=1

Preen59

10-01-2008, 06:55 PM

Primed the cam cover yesterday and painted it today.

http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/2118/100120081206smallcu3.th.jpg (http://img91.imageshack.us/my.php?image=100120081206smallcu3.jpg)

Tomorrow i'm going to rub the ribs back and re polish them. I'l post pics when it's done. This wrinkle finish paint takes a while to set properly, the can says 5 days to fully harden! It had started to wrinkle a little when i left the workshop.

Jarred

10-01-2008, 07:07 PM

wow, that's patience, 5 days! I think it'll look pretty trick once you're done

Preen59

27-01-2008, 03:14 PM

Ok, well the wrinkle finish went to crap cause it stained when i polished the ribs and i couldn't get it out. Also it was uneven because half way through painting it the can started leaking so i could get even cover :mad:.

So, i wet blasted it again and repainted it with high temp flat black. Came up looking really good i think..

http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/3599/230120081210smallag0.th.jpg (http://img85.imageshack.us/my.php?image=230120081210smallag0.jpg)

Also, today i lightened my flywheel, which came up well.

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/8130/270120081211smallji2.th.jpg (http://img210.imageshack.us/my.php?image=270120081211smallji2.jpg)

If anyone is interested i can machine flywheels for them, too.

Jarred

27-01-2008, 04:13 PM

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/ (http://img85.imageshack.us/my.php?image=230120081210smallag0.jpg)

hot!!! I love it, great combo with the flat black and polished ribs. ;)

Valver.

28-01-2008, 07:15 AM

Nice project :D Should go well with that engine :)

Preen59

29-01-2008, 07:50 AM

Nice project :D Should go well with that engine :)

Thanks dude, it's not to the level of detail that your cars are (which are some of the best i've ever seen), but i just want a nice neat car that i can say is mine and i've done.

Preen59

29-01-2008, 08:01 AM

Ok, so yesterday i got some more stuff done on the braking department. I started fitting the rear disc setup that i got hold of. I've cleaned all the parts up and painted them and i also machined the discs and cleaned them up too. At the moment i'm just doing one side so i can figure out how i'm going to do it. This way if i make a mistake it's half as bad.

Here's a pic of the setup on the rear end (Minus the disc..)

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/4002/280120081213smallyk8.th.jpg (http://img152.imageshack.us/my.php?image=280120081213smallyk8.jpg)

And here's the freshly machined and painted discs.

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/2575/280120081216smallmv0.th.jpg (http://img152.imageshack.us/my.php?image=280120081216smallmv0.jpg)

Jarred

29-01-2008, 11:35 AM

what is your brake set up going to be like? what components are you using?

Preen59

30-01-2008, 05:41 PM

what is your brake set up going to be like? what components are you using?

On the back i'm running a mk2 8v GTI setup all standard. The stub axles bolt straight on to the standard mk1 rear end. I've got to shorten the lines and make some new ones and mount the proportioning valve though. So i'll put it up on the hoist once i'm ready and work out how i'm going to do that. I'll post pics and all the dimensions with a full how-to once i work it all out.

On the front i'm going to do the 278mm magna rotor conversion with the commodore calipers. There's a thread in the interesting articles section about that.

Valver.

31-01-2008, 08:35 PM

Thanks dude, it's not to the level of detail that your cars are (which are some of the best i've ever seen), but i just want a nice neat car that i can say is mine and i've done.

You're detailing what's beneath the surface so that's more important anyway IMO :D Look forward to seeing this run

Preen59

04-02-2008, 04:54 PM

Some more progress.. Today i got my rear wheel bearing kits for the disc brakes and i also got my calipers back from being kitted. So i put one disc back on after packing the bearings etc and i also painted my calipers with high temp polyurethane metallic silver paint. To get the calipers kitted costed 200 bucks but they do a good job and they re-plate them too.

Here's a pic of the calipers when i got them back (before i painted them).

http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/8611/040220081226smalljm7.th.jpg (http://img134.imageshack.us/my.php?image=040220081226smalljm7.jpg)

Here's a pic of my finger when i managed to open it up with a screw driver doing a hose clamp up today.. After i did it my old man was kind enough to mention that he had socket drivers for hose clamps so that that didn't happen.. :rolleyes:

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/4539/040220081228smallrm9.th.jpg (http://img232.imageshack.us/my.php?image=040220081228smallrm9.jpg)

Also, here's something else i did on the weekend not related to the goof. It's a busted Chrysler 392 block that I machined at my work on sunday to see how much we could safely take off where the oil filter goes. Dad is building a 60's top fuel dragster and the remote oil filter adapter won't fit between the chassis rails and the block so we wanted to see how much we could take off to make it fit before we did it to the block we're going to use..

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/9828/030220081221smallim5.th.jpg (http://img220.imageshack.us/my.php?image=030220081221smallim5.jpg)

ontarv

04-02-2008, 08:30 PM

looking good !!!
by the way , your not working if there is no blood

Preen59

05-02-2008, 08:24 PM

looking good !!!
by the way , your not working if there is no blood

Haha, yeah i'm hearing that. Seems to be that with cars, it doesn't matter what you are doing, you increase your risk of injury just because it's to do with an automobile! j:

Also, something else interesting... On saturday i went to Canberra in the big bad Caddy with the old man cause we were taking one of the 392 blocks down to Graeme Silk race engineering. Turns out he does Neal Bates' toyota rally car engines! Apart from a lot of other really trick drag racing engines, sprint car/ speed car engines. I had a look at his gear, and he has some really nice stuff and i also took a look at some engines he was currently machining/ building.

And to top that off, he has a brand new top-of-the-line Superflow engine dyno!. So i've decided i'm going to get him to do all the machine work and balancing on the 16v. He confessed that he does charge more than most engine builders, but i can tell he takes an interest and he also makes sure what leaves his workshop is exactly what the customer wants and up to his (very high) standards.

So when i've finished building the engine, i'm going to head down there so we can tune it on the dyno.

Dad and i are currently in the process of ordering some 5083 aluminium 50mm thick billets so that i can machine up a torque plate for the 16v aswell as one for the 392 engine.

Once i've made the torque plate i'll post some drawings for everyone.

I didn't realise, but a lot of people bore (or get bored) their blocks static with no tension. This is a really bad idea and is why some engines can be freshened up and still have bad leakdown from new. In some cases, the bore can distort up to 4 thou (0.10mm). Which is awful.

Jarred

05-02-2008, 10:32 PM

there's a phone numer you won't want to loose any time soon!

p.s. sorry I havn't got those number for you, I haven't been able to get them measured up very accurately.

Preen59

12-02-2008, 06:39 PM

My uncle gave me an oil cooler yesterday! It's off his march open wheel formula 2 car he had years ago. Really good quality aluminium cooler.

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/5814/100220081235smallta0.th.jpg (http://img231.imageshack.us/my.php?image=100220081235smallta0.jpg)

Also we're currently building a car trailer for his 914/6 currently being restored and for the Goof.. :). So i'll post a couple of pics of it tomorrow. The main chassis is pretty much done and we welded the axle in this arvo. It's going to be a tilt type loading trailer but with no extension ramps, so it's pretty interesting.

Something else interesting.. Here's a pic of a standard Chrysler 392 hemi main cap (top) and a standard VW 16v main cap (bottom).

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/5905/080220081231smallct0.th.jpg (http://img81.imageshack.us/my.php?image=080220081231smallct0.jpg)

Yet another reason why VW engines are so bullet proof and you can extract such good horsepower from standard equipment..

Valver.

12-02-2008, 06:46 PM

That's an interesting pic comparing main caps!! Thanks for sharing :)

Preen59

18-02-2008, 05:53 PM

Did some more work on the trailer on sunday. Silly enough (i should know better), i was welding in shorts. Got some SERIOUS ray burn on my leg. Won't be doing that again! j:

On saturday i machined some wheels for a guy who races V8 supercars in the fujitsu series who has the workshop next to my old man and mine. He needed some wheels with a square machined outer edge, so i threw them up on the CNC mill and machined them.

http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/9110/160220081238smallvq2.th.jpg (http://img143.imageshack.us/my.php?image=160220081238smallvq2.jpg)

I removed all the water lines etc and pulled the radiator and a few other things out of the golf yesterday too. So as soon as i get a chance, the big bad goof is going on the hoist to have it's ticker removed..

Got my block back today from being acid cleaned, too. Now i have to de-flash it and then remove all the plugs so i can wet blast it and get it all smick to go to Graeme Silk gingerbeering to be bored to 1.9 and have the crank machined and everything balanced.

http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/7267/180220081243smallmx9.th.jpg (http://img86.imageshack.us/my.php?image=180220081243smallmx9.jpg)

Got some more Goof stuff from the US too. I got a new golf ball gear knob, a new early euro shift boot, an original US Rabbit badge, a new 16v cam chain and a new 16v dipstick. Also coming is a full new gear linkage kit (16 bucks US!!!) and a full Prothane engine mount bush and suspension bush kit (70 bucks US!!!!!) I love Ebay..

http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/5558/180220081242smalloy3.th.jpg (http://img86.imageshack.us/my.php?image=180220081242smalloy3.jpg)

Jarred

18-02-2008, 08:48 PM

WABIT

18-02-2008, 09:18 PM

hey mate love the progress with the 16v, one question though

what are you using for a exhaust from the manifold down? headers or custom from the mani down? ect??

cheers

wabit

Preen59

19-02-2008, 07:18 PM

interesting that you've decided to go with the rabbit badge there. Personally, I think calling it a rabbit is weird, and I've always prefered Golf,, but that's just me. :?

I thought about getting poly suspension bushes but someone said they'd be too much for street usage. My suspension is firm enough as it is, for my daily. So for now I don't need to change anything, but I'd be interested to see how it goes....

I'm doing the Rabbit badge because it's unusual and i like doing things just a little bit different. It is weird, yeah. That's another reason why i'm doing it. Plus i think the little bunny looks cool.

Poly bushes are very noisy for street use and can knock/bang a little sometimes so you're right, normal bushes are much prefered with good suspension to give you a well handling vehicle that is still reasonably smooth to drive. But hey, i don't care because i'm doing this mainly for competition.

-Oh, i also de-flashed my block today on the skirt webs. If anyone is interested in why you de-flash a block and wants some pics, i'll put a post up with some info etc, otherwise i'll leave it at that.

Preen59

19-02-2008, 07:25 PM

hey mate love the progress with the 16v, one question though

what are you using for a exhaust from the manifold down? headers or custom from the mani down? ect??

cheers

wabit

I'm using the standard 16v 4-2 manifold (ported and port matched to the head) with a 2-1 mandrel downpipe. From everything i've read the standard manifold makes the same power as extractors, depending on the setup, you may squeeze a few extra HP from extractors but $600+ for 3 or 4 HP seems a little pointless. I spoke to the guys at Techtonics and they said yeah don't worry about it unless you are pressed for room, and they sell the things.

Is the ABF mani the same as the KR one? If it is, and you're interested, when i get my downpipe made, i'll get 2 done. Glennboy at Central West Exhaust in town works magic with custom exhausts, he does a fantastic job and for a good price too.

Anyway, if you're interested let me know.

WABIT

19-02-2008, 08:36 PM

hey

its all good ive actually got a 9A engine (k-jet) i have a manifold and the downpipe cut off at the flange to i can graft my custom exhaust i had on the 8v but im also getting a set of ashley racing extractors cheap!!! hehe

thank you for the heads up anyways mate and good setup on your exhaust system cant wait to see the finished product

wabit

Golf Loon

19-02-2008, 08:51 PM

ABF ports are the same, but engine is 10mm taller.

WABIT

19-02-2008, 08:55 PM

sorry i didnt quite get what you mean what was it again j: only kitdding mate

hahahahhaha

wabit

Jarred

19-02-2008, 10:26 PM

yea What's all this engine de-flashing about. i'd be interested to know all the things you're doiong to your eng, and the reasons why,. it seems a prettty comprehensive rebuild... (of the eng)

velly_16v_cab

20-02-2008, 06:47 AM

Preen59

20-02-2008, 11:18 AM

a 4 branch manifold for the exhaust will allow the car to breath much more freely.
It may seem alot of money to spend for little bhp return but the car drives and responds so much better.

The way to get the power out of a 16v is to allow it to breath.

just my 2cents worth ;)

Fair enough. I'll go with what i have now and see about something different later on if i feel it would be an advantage..

Allowing the engine to breathe better is the way to get power out of anything :).

velly_16v_cab

20-02-2008, 11:37 AM

lol...very true.

Preen59

20-02-2008, 09:23 PM

yea What's all this engine de-flashing about. i'd be interested to know all the things you're doiong to your eng, and the reasons why,. it seems a prettty comprehensive rebuild... (of the eng)

Well i figure do it once do it well so i'm not skimping on anything (i'm not spending money when i don't need to, either).

You know when you get a cheap injection moulded plastic part and there's little feathery bits hanging off it in spots? That's called flash. Its where the to mating halves of the mould (or sliding cores etc, but we'll keep it simple) don't seal together properly and the plastic 'squirts' out a little between the faces of the mould.

The same goes (basically) for a casting or forging. Where there are mating faces the can be flashing if the cast or forge die isn't perfect. In the cast it happens for a slightly different reason but we'll leave it alone because this thread isn't the place to be explaining the casting, forging and injection moulding process in detail.

Where you have flash, it can cause a weak spot and cracks/ failures always start from imperfections. Always. That's why you see Top Fuel engine rods are polished. So that there is nowhere for a failure to start, although that's not to say something will never fail.

So, by de-flashing the block and your rods, you eliminate a potential failure point.

The VW castings are very high quality, and the only spot on my block that needed de-flashing was the main bearing webs. The rest of the casting is perfect. Same goes for the rods, VW rods are very high quality and very minimal de-flashing is required, followed by shot peening.

Shot peening is basically sand blasting the rod. It uses glass beads. These glass beads remove the 'skin' of the metal and remove any surface stress and tension within the rod, making it tougher and less brittle.

Clear some things up?

Preen59

20-02-2008, 09:33 PM

Oh i also removed all the welsh plugs from the block today. The small plugs in the ends of the block for the piston coolers i'll be tapping and fitting screw in plugs to.

Here's some before and after pics of the block from flash to deflash.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/ (http://img86.imageshack.us/my.php?image=180220081243smallmx9.jpg)

And after..

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/5938/200220081247smallig7.th.jpg (http://img151.imageshack.us/my.php?image=200220081247smallig7.jpg)

Can you see what i've done? You do it with a die grinder... And a steady hand :D.

Jarred

20-02-2008, 09:48 PM

oh yea, I get that. makes sense. I'm geussing you'd have to be running a bit of a performance engine for any of the standard moldings to become an issue though right?

thanks for the explanation though. Handy bit of knowledge that i'll pull out at some point of time I'm sure.

GoLfMan

21-02-2008, 05:58 AM

this is a very educational build mate, lovin ya work :)

Preen59

21-02-2008, 07:24 PM

thanks for the explanation though. Handy bit of knowledge that i'll pull out at some point of time I'm sure.

Yeah, it's cool when like, you get to quote info and like, make yourself sound all smart n that.. j:

Preen59

21-02-2008, 07:29 PM

this is a very educational build mate, lovin ya work :)

That's what this forum is all about IMO. Sharing information about, and being able to discuss a common interest. :)

I'm happy to share the small amount of knowledge i have...

And if i don't know i'll make something up that sounds intelligent.. j:

GoLfMan

21-02-2008, 09:07 PM

That's what this forum is all about IMO. Sharing information about, and being able to discuss a common interest. :)

I'm happy to share the small amount of knowledge i have...

And if i don't know i'll make something up that sounds intelligent.. j:

forums nowadays are headed toward less tech knowledge of the old timers and more about flashing and chipping cars which is a pity, love seeing a bit of the real stuff :)

Preen59

22-02-2008, 03:28 PM

forums nowadays are headed toward less tech knowledge of the old timers and more about flashing and chipping cars which is a pity, love seeing a bit of the real stuff :)

Yeah, i'm not really a big fan of the 'purchased horsepower' thing. I mean, there is a market for it and i don't bag the people that take that route, but i'd rather do it myself and do it my own way. Much more satisfaction and much less cost.

I think being able to use the odd bolt on part is good, but not just buying everything and having it fitted by someone else so you can say you engine has all this brand name gear in it and quote horspower figures you should be getting, but not really knowing why or how those parts work.

Preen59

22-02-2008, 03:42 PM

I'm geussing you'd have to be running a bit of a performance engine for any of the standard moldings to become an issue though right?

Sorry, forgot to answer your question.

Yeah, my block would be ok without doing it but it took 5 mins to do and if nothing else i won't jag my damn knuckles on it now. :rolleyes:

It's mostly done for strictly racing engines (like NA 2l 10,000+ rpm 350hp) sort of stuff. And for high performance forced induction engines. Common practice for supercharged methanol 2000hp+ 70psi+ V8 drag engines etc.

gldgti

23-02-2008, 06:23 AM

Yeah, i'm not really a big fan of the 'purchased horsepower' thing. I mean, there is a market for it and i don't bag the people that take that route, but i'd rather do it myself and do it my own way. Much more satisfaction and much less cost.

I think being able to use the odd bolt on part is good, but not just buying everything and having it fitted by someone else so you can say you engine has all this brand name gear in it and quote horspower figures you should be getting, but not really knowing why or how those parts work.

we need more people like you on this forum mate ;-)

Preen59

23-02-2008, 08:17 PM

Here's a pic of the car trailer. We've mostly got it done. Just small things now like the tow hitch, guards and wiring (and of course, paint). We're going to use a cam system to tilt the trailer (similar to a hay bail turnover) so it won't need ramps. I'll explain when we make them.

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/3307/220220081250smalldd1.th.jpg (http://img81.imageshack.us/my.php?image=220220081250smalldd1.jpg)

Preen59

23-02-2008, 08:33 PM

I wet blasted my block today. Didn't come up too bad. I didn't do a spot on job of it, i just blasted the majority of rust and paint off to clean it up. I also blasted out the water jackets to give them a good clean too.

Of course, 10 minutes after it had already started to rust again :rolleyes:. But that's ok, i got it back to the workshop and coated it in CRC. So its now ready to go to the engine machine shop. Woo.

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/2446/230220081251smallaa4.th.jpg (http://img84.imageshack.us/my.php?image=230220081251smallaa4.jpg)

Preen59

24-02-2008, 10:27 AM

we need more people like you on this forum mate ;-)

Don't say things you might regret! j:

GoLfMan

24-02-2008, 10:35 AM

this 16v is going to be a crazy engine :D i got dibs going for a ride at nats first j:

Preen59

24-02-2008, 04:32 PM

this 16v is going to be a crazy engine :D i got dibs going for a ride at nats first j:

Yeah it should be a bit of a rice burner hopefully. I'm hoping to take it to wakefield to beat the pants off the time this guy in town did in his piece of crap bolt on covered 165kw vtec integra. He can't drive a tack into a watermelon so it shouldn't be too hard. These guys in town all with jap cars call themselves the 'Circuit Club'. One time when they all went to wakefield, Garry Wilmington came up to one of them with a civic Vtec and said "nice car mate, mind if i take it for a lap?" So he took it out and did like 4 or 5 laps and went 3 seconds faster than him, then just came in and handed the keys back and said "yeah, it's not bad." Boy racers.

I don't think i'll have it running by the nats. I'd like to think i would, but it probably won't happen. Mainly because i don't have the cash at the moment to just buy everything and do it all right away.

But hey, next year, if i remember, you're first. ;)

GoLfMan

24-02-2008, 07:12 PM

yeh im not a big person for bolt on stuff, it takes all the skill out of "hotting up" engines i recon, any average Joe can do it.
i hope you do beat the pants off the VTEC infestation that'd show them.

Jarred and i were in his Laser when a rice boy Civic came up next to us cannon and all... even stevens to the speed limit and he was double clutching (what a wank!)

back on Topic, obviously your going to do a bit of flow work on the head, what size cams are you going to run? ohhh sweet im looking forward to that ride :D

Preen59

24-02-2008, 07:37 PM

obviously your going to do a bit of flow work on the head, what size cams are you going to run? ohhh sweet im looking forward to that ride :D

Yeah, John Houseman, a mate of mine who owns Auto 1 in town (I get trade discount :D) has been building engines for years and has his own flow bench. The heads he does are a work of art, very nicely finished off. He has the head at the moment, and is going nuts with it. He's porting+polishing the ports and combustion chamber, aswell as making sure the cam tunnels are square.

The head will be running .5 oversize valves with reduced necks from Techtonics Tuning, with supertech HD valvesprings and Titanium retainers. and I'll be running TT 276 deg cams. The TT 276 cams should allow the engine to idle at about 1100 rpm or a bit more, and it should have enough low end torque to drive around town on the odd occasion. Ofcourse, it won't really make power till about 5000rpm and should make peak at a bit over 7, pulling all the way to the rev limiter which i'm going to set at 8,500.

Note with cams: it's very important to get the right cam for your application. Cams designed for injection won't necessarily work on carbies. Carbies (especially webers) work best with a cam with initial negative inlet opening. This means that the valve opens before the piston reaches TDC (Top Dead Centre). What this does is forces an atomised fuel mist out into the velocity stack, and allows a much better atomised charge to enter the cylinder. Hence, the TT 276 cams i have chosen to run with have about 5 degrees of negative inlet and are designed for carburettors.

It's also pointless to go with a bigger or more agressive cam than needed. If your induction system cannot supply the CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) your cam profile desires, your engine will not benefit from the additional duration and lift of a larger cam. Your engine will just be cranky and may even perform worse than with the original cam.

So yeah, ported/port matched/polished head with Techtonics Tuning .5mm oversize valves, HD valve springs w/ titanium retainers and TT 276 sport/race cams. This setup is probably going to be on the verge of not being drivable on the street. :D

Jarred

24-02-2008, 07:48 PM

this engine is going to be the ducks nuts

and, as anyone Victorian can attest, you can't compare my laser to V-tec. I clearly win. all the time. duh. Cause I have Vtec. hectic bro. :D

haha lol. seriously, hadn't I already called shotgun in this josh??mI think I did

GoLfMan

24-02-2008, 08:14 PM

that engine is going to be mental, and sound mental :D!

thestu

25-02-2008, 10:28 AM

hey there!

how much you get it resprayed for?

and did you do the body work before it got sent off?

its looks really nice! you should be proud!

stu

Preen59

29-02-2008, 08:18 PM

that engine is going to be mental, and sound mental :D!

Lets hope so! It should be a pretty good strong donk.

Preen59

29-02-2008, 08:21 PM

seriously, hadn't I already called shotgun in this josh??mI think I did

Ok, look, i think the first ride is going to have to go to the highest bidder. We'll start the auction at 300... No 400 dollars.. j:

Just kidding i'll be happy to take a couple of people for a spin.

Preen59

29-02-2008, 08:26 PM

hey there!

how much you get it resprayed for?

and did you do the body work before it got sent off?

its looks really nice! you should be proud!

stu

Hey Stu,

It was a bare metal respray done by a family friend's business in town. I did all the disassembly and stripped the body and panels to bare metal and Turnbull and Townsend smash repairs did all the body work (mostly file finished :D) and painted it in sikkens 2 pac. B4B4 Volkswagen candy white.

I didn't pay for the job because we came to an arrangement with some other stuff, but by the way Shane was talking it would have been around $4000 i'd say. They spent weeks on the body getting it spot on straight.

Thanks for the kind comments, it's nice to know i'm not the only person that appreciates the look i'm aiming for.

Preen59

01-03-2008, 08:15 PM

Got my pistons, valves, valve stem oil seals from TT on tuesday. :D:D Also got my full prothane bush kit from the US on tuesday too. I'll post some pics tomorrow.

thestu

02-03-2008, 12:12 AM

Hey Stu,

It was a bare metal respray done by a family friend's business in town. I did all the disassembly and stripped the body and panels to bare metal and Turnbull and Townsend smash repairs did all the body work (mostly file finished :D) and painted it in sikkens 2 pac. B4B4 Volkswagen candy white.

I didn't pay for the job because we came to an arrangement with some other stuff, but by the way Shane was talking it would have been around $4000 i'd say. They spent weeks on the body getting it spot on straight.

Thanks for the kind comments, it's nice to know i'm not the only person that appreciates the look i'm aiming for.

ohhh ok sweet thansk!

yeh its a really nice car! good job!

ausgolfer

05-03-2008, 09:52 PM

Got my pistons, valves, valve stem oil seals from TT on tuesday. :D:D Also got my full prothane bush kit from the US on tuesday too. I'll post some pics tomorrow.

Pics or banj: I wanna see what I'm envious of ;)

Preen59

06-03-2008, 07:57 PM

Ok, more stuff done.

I'm getting the original hatch fixed up and painted to put on the goof because its lighter due to not having a wiper assembly. So i started stripping that yesterday. If anyone is interested, i found the best way to do it is to apply the stripper, cover it in good old home brand glad wrap and let it go for 24 hours. The glad wrap stops the chemicals from evaporating and helps the stripper get to work. Sit it in the sun if you can, that helps too, and if you scratch the paint up a bit (be careful not to dint it! :)) that helps the stripper get under the surface and go crazy.

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/2881/050320081254ik9.th.jpg (http://img231.imageshack.us/my.php?image=050320081254ik9.jpg)

Here's a shot of my weber 45 DCOEs (just to be a tease :D). The head is half way through being ported. After that is done, John is getting the valve seats re cut (to accomodate the bigger valves) and getting the valves 3 angle ground. So pics as soon as i get round to his joint to take a look-see. He said it flows quite well and didn't need a lot of material taken out.

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/763/040320081253vn0.th.jpg (http://img230.imageshack.us/my.php?image=040320081253vn0.jpg)

And here's my Prothane kit in all its $70.00(yes that's not a typo) glory.

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/1675/050320081256smallsw8.th.jpg (http://img156.imageshack.us/my.php?image=050320081256smallsw8.jpg)

Also, i got a new 5 speed linkage and bush kit (as in everything, the linkage rods and all) off ebay for 16.00. Yeah, once again not a typo. I really love ebay US. It's great as long as you're careful. Plus with paypal insurance, you're covered anyway!

I'd take some pics of the pistons and valves etc but John already has the valves and the pistons are just STD 82.5 2.0l 16v pistons. But if you REALLY want to see standard pistons, i'll post pics.. j:

TassieGTi

06-03-2008, 08:36 PM

This is going to look great :o Look forward to following your progress ;)

Jarred

06-03-2008, 09:35 PM

yep no now I have to go change my underpants.

thanks.

(oh my oh my... this is going to be..insert uninvented word here)

ontarv

06-03-2008, 09:37 PM

dam i want those carb's
well i really want a pair of 40's
guna sound unreal
nice work

GoLfMan

06-03-2008, 09:44 PM

this baby is going to sinnggg :D i love the fact that your keeping it old school cool!!!!

twin eng, twin turbs

07-03-2008, 11:52 PM

WABIT

08-03-2008, 07:13 AM

wow this thread is starting to get wicked i cant wait to see the outcome.... mmm carb'd valver goodness :cool:

wabit

Preen59

09-03-2008, 04:58 PM

Hey thats really lookin great man, you should take it to the nats this year with the 8v engine if its still in there... I am saving for tuning on the turbs mk2 to get it down to the nats. Have you finished machining the torque plate up? Post up some pics of it! :)

Awesome dude. And uh.. Finished? I haven't even started!! The billet is just sitting on the top of the block. When i get the chance, i'm going to put it on the Cincinnati CNC and machine it all in one set up so theres less jerking around. Either that, or i'll spot all the holes on the mill and wire cut the bore clearance holes out.. Mainly because i can. j: But also to save the alloy in the middle.

If you're wondering it's 5083 50mm thick. Graeme silk said 5083 was the go. 5083 has magnesium in it so i'd say the reason it's good for torque plates is that it has similar characteristics to cast aluminium, because cast aluminium usually has a high magnesium content.

Preen59

13-03-2008, 05:13 PM

Slightly more progress..

I gave the hatch to Brian Keegan today to repair the rust and get it ready for paint. So that should be done next week.

I finally got around to putting the other rear disc setup on this arvo. Everything went a treat (because the hoist was free.. :)) and it only took about 15 mins.

I've decided not to worry about the proportioning valve. Considering i'll have larger brakes on the front etc it should be ok without it. I've decided if it poses a problem and i start locking the rears on corner entry etc i'll buy an adjustable proportioning valve and mount it in the engine bay.

Anyway, if it has a tendancy to lock the rears, i'll use it to my advantage and point it into the corners on the tail.. Should eliminate the problem of entry understeer! j:

Heres a pic of the back with the M3 style tails. Its the first time i've been able to take a picture of the back of the car since i put them on. Heh, due to the fact that the car has no interior at the moment, it kinda looks like an offroad vehicle..

http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/4153/130320081258up1.th.jpg (http://img143.imageshack.us/my.php?image=130320081258up1.jpg)

Jarred

13-03-2008, 05:34 PM

yea that looks nice!! What wheels have you got on? I've either forgotten what they are or not read them..

GoLfMan

13-03-2008, 06:59 PM

sweet mate, all these mk1 buildups are motivating me to get mine done faster :D

ausgolfer

13-03-2008, 08:27 PM

WABIT

13-03-2008, 10:03 PM

i can 2nd that after locking up my rear disc's in my driveway dong about 20kph... and i had my toyo's on too

wabit

Preen59

16-03-2008, 09:09 AM

I'd advise you to put a proportioning valve in. I've driven a mk1 with G60 brakes on the front and 16v mk2 rear discs and no proportioning valve and it would almost spin under light braking loads, very tail happy.

Ok, well looks like i'll be getting a proportioning valve then... My mate Mitch in sydney said to go to Motorsport Connections in seven hills. So i'll get down there in the next couple of weeks and chat to them about it.

Valver.

16-03-2008, 09:16 AM

Do run the valves - I'm also one that tried without them and it was dangerous to drive!! I used an inline bias adjuster, which was a good move, so I'd recommend doing that :)

Preen59

16-03-2008, 11:15 AM

Do run the valves - I'm also one that tried without them and it was dangerous to drive!! I used an inline bias adjuster, which was a good move, so I'd recommend doing that :)

Alright, looks like it's official that disc brake rear ends need a bias valve. I'll get on it as soon as possible.

GoLfMan

16-03-2008, 07:30 PM

PICS dammit man, i wanna see more of this engine build :D

Preen59

16-03-2008, 07:43 PM

PICS dammit man, i wanna see more of this engine build :D

Yeah, yeah! I haven't done much lately. I'll start on the toque plate at work tomorrow hopefully, went to Silky's yesterday with dad to pick up one of the 392 blocks that he put our 4 bolt mains on though, so gimme a sec and i'll upload a pic of that..

Preen59

16-03-2008, 07:54 PM

Ok, here you go..

The top and bottom main caps are the standard ones, while the 3 Alloy VRE ones in the middle are the 4 bolt mains. So now you know what 4 bolt mains are when someone says their V8 has 4 bolt mains.. They're not all that big though.. ;)

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/4025/150320081260bf5.th.jpg (http://img232.imageshack.us/my.php?image=150320081260bf5.jpg)

Jarred

16-03-2008, 07:57 PM

oh yea, No more acting like I know what I'm talking about for me anymore! Now I actually know what I'm talking about. impressive isn't it? hahaha j:

Preen59

16-03-2008, 08:03 PM

oh yea, No more acting like I know what I'm talking about for me anymore! Now I actually know what I'm talking about. impressive isn't it? hahaha j:

Truth be told.. Most of the yee-ha idiots that own V8 street cars etc wouldn't know what they are either, just that people say they're good... So you probably know about their engines than they do now.. j:

Oneofthegreats

16-03-2008, 09:21 PM

There not just normal 4 bolt main's either.

There splayed studded 4 bolt main's . Usually reserved for higher output blown or turbo charged engine's.

Very nice!

There's also a misconception with some engine's whether 4 bolt's are better than 2. Normally 4 bolt's are superior, but with small block 400's its actually better to have a 2 bolter, as the extra bolt's weaken's the block's main webbing.

ontarv

17-03-2008, 09:03 PM

looked at a friends 427 small block the other day
and it had ones that go in from the side as well so 6 bolt mains ?
he is building it for his vt com what a waste

Preen59

18-03-2008, 03:43 PM

There not just normal 4 bolt main's either.

There splayed studded 4 bolt main's . Usually reserved for higher output blown or turbo charged engine's.

Um, this block is for a 2500 horsepower top fuel engine.. :)

My old man is restoring a front engine fueller from the 60's/70's.

Jarred

18-03-2008, 03:59 PM

Um, this block is for a 2500 horsepower top fuel engine.. :)

My old man is restoring a front engine fueller from the 60's/70's.

oh. well that makes sense then doesn't it.

trust Tim to notice though! j:

Oneofthegreats

18-03-2008, 06:45 PM

Um, this block is for a 2500 horsepower top fuel engine.. :)

My old man is restoring a front engine fueller from the 60's/70's.
Hell Yeh.

You wouldn't have any engine spec's?

I "love" this stuff.

looked at a friends 427 small block the other day
and it had ones that go in from the side as well so 6 bolt mains ?
he is building it for his vt com what a waste

If it's a chev & for a VT, it will be a Gen3. Gen3, LS2, LS7 etc are all 6 bolt main's standard.

I don't see it as a waste.

Preen59

18-03-2008, 07:10 PM

The good old standard government issue small block chev...

What engine specs do you want dude? Its a 'cackle car' engine we're building, so we're building it around heat absorbtion mainly so it will run for about 5 minutes without burning itself to the ground.

Rick Macdonald from San diego is helping us with the build, he has built quite a few cackle car engines and really knows his stuff. He's done the fuel system for us and we are building it to his specs. It should spit about 2 foot flames at idle... 4 foot at night with the fuel system just right. :D

Preen59

18-03-2008, 07:20 PM

And back on topic, i painted the spare wheel well with rust converter this arvo, there was a few spots in it so i thought i'd be silly not to.

Next up i have to weld up to small holes in the floor aswell as seam weld the cross brace and rust convert the floor. Might drop the donk out this weekend too.

Bought some H beam rods today from the US. 450 grams total weight, dual forged (rod and cap are forged separately, providing better grain structure), destressed, shot peened, and magnafluxed. 650 horsepower rated. ARP L19 rod bolts. $290US.

They aren't any flash brand, but they'd have to be atleast as strong as the standard rods, plus they are way lighter. They have a brass little end bush for floating pins too, which is good because i'm going to run floating gudgeons with teflon buttons.

Oneofthegreats

18-03-2008, 09:55 PM

Preen59

19-03-2008, 06:59 PM

Woo more forward progress... With the floor this time.

Today I dragged the bad girl out of the workshop and in next door to Benny's workshop, and fired the MIG up. I welded up the small rust holes in the passenger side floor. I thought there was 2.. But luckily i got dad underneath the car to push a brass bar against the underside of where i was going to weld (FYI, using a brass bar or somthing similar, like copper or even alloy takes some of the heat out of the thin corroded metal and stops it burning away as you are trying to weld it up.. Otherwise you can chase it half way across the floor if you aren't careful. It also keeps your weld flat and stops it from sagging down.), dad noticed another rust crack under the passenger side brake line, about 50mm long, so i welded it back up too.

After all that crap was done i cleaned it out and hit the floor with a serious coat of rust converter.

Hopefully tomorrow i'll drag it back in there and seam weld the floor cross brace. I might even have a go at seam welding the door jams with the oxy, nice and slow with no filler wire and fuse the two edges together..

GoLfMan

19-03-2008, 07:07 PM

Hopefully tomorrow i'll drag it back in there and seam weld the floor cross brace. I might even have a go at seam welding the door jams with the oxy, nice and slow with no filler wire and fuse the two edges together..
awesome progress mate!! :D PICS!
i think i'd rather tig it, but both do really nice welds.... arrgghhh i want a TIG :(

Jarred

19-03-2008, 07:13 PM

argh.. all this welding terminology! my brain my brain. haha

joking.

why are you bracing the foot well? extra stiffness or just thin floors?

ontarv

19-03-2008, 07:16 PM

nice tips on welding will use on the weekend
what brand of rust converter are you using
and pics tooo!! x2

Preen59

19-03-2008, 07:41 PM

awesome progress mate!! :D PICS!
i think i'd rather tig it, but both do really nice welds.... arrgghhh i want a TIG :(

Yeah tig is the ideal, but i don't currently have access to one outside of work. I've got a guy at work that will do it for me (one of the best welders in australia, dead set he could just about weld aluminium to steel!) when i can take it in..

Benny is looking at getting one so if he does i'll get dutto to do it for me. (Dutto works for benny full time now on the race cars and he's a welder by trade).

Preen59

19-03-2008, 07:44 PM

nice tips on welding will use on the weekend
what brand of rust converter are you using
and pics tooo!! x2

Its umm.. Motoguard? I think. Bonk (my mate that owns auto one here) gave it to me said it was good stuff.

Make sure you scuff it back with a wire brush where you are going to weld the panel.

Preen59

19-03-2008, 07:47 PM

Oh i nearly forgot, with the brass bar, wear REALLY thick gloves. The damn things heat up so fast! Wouldn't want anyone blaming me for burning themselves... j:

ontarv

19-03-2008, 09:12 PM

thanks will use gloves
wire brush ? hit with the sand blaster
yes i i'm lasy!!!!!!

GoLfMan

19-03-2008, 10:38 PM

wear ARC welding gloves ;) they are the best for heat insulation....

i love my TIG welding!

Preen59

20-03-2008, 05:29 PM

thanks will use gloves
wire brush ? hit with the sand blaster
yes i i'm lasy!!!!!!

Yeah just the wire brush will be fine. Give it a good go to clean it up. Remember, if you're using the MIG, just a zap and then let it cool a few seconds. Depending on how the shape of the hole is, zap one spot, then zap the other side etc. If it gets too hot it will start to burn away and then you're in trouble trying to chase it. So if it starts to burn away, let it cool for a minute then go again.

Preen59

25-03-2008, 07:08 PM

Got my new rods! They're C.A.T. rods.

Here's a pic of one of them.

http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/825/250320081268jz5.th.jpg (http://img180.imageshack.us/my.php?image=250320081268jz5.jpg)

And here's a comparison pic between my new ones and a standard rod.

http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/872/250320081266lx1.th.jpg (http://img441.imageshack.us/my.php?image=250320081266lx1.jpg)

Very nice looking rods. So light! Dad said this arvo, oh a box has turned up for you.. don't think its your rods though, the box is too light.. Turns out it was. They have a very nice hone finish (haven't mic'd them up yet..) and have brass little end bushes, with 3 lubrication holes. I also got them with ARP L19 bolts. Very happy with my purchase for $290 US. They came from an (oh, you better believe it!) Ebay seller that calls themselves the "Crankshaft Depot". They sell a whole lot of 4 cylinder, 'sport compact car' etc bottom end performance parts.

Heh, it was actually cheaper for me to buy these new H beam rods than it was to get my standard rods re-sized, shot peened, crack tested and buy new ARP rod bolts... Crazy not to buy them really....

Jarred

25-03-2008, 10:31 PM

man they looks nice! your engine has so much trick stuff in it!!

GoLfMan

26-03-2008, 12:50 PM

i swear if you dont get this ready for nats there will be some 8v hell to pay j: come hell or high water im having a ride when i come up, even if it is freddy flintstone powered j:

Preen59

26-03-2008, 05:08 PM

i swear if you dont get this ready for nats there will be some 8v hell to pay j: come hell or high water im having a ride when i come up, even if it is freddy flintstone powered j:

Dude... There's NO WAY it'll be ready for the nats. Even if i had all the money right now to buy and do everything, i couldn't get it done.

But don't worry, i think i'll take the old man's Karmann Ghia.. Its pretty hot. You'll be impressed. I'll take youse for a drive in that. :)

If you're coming up to syd inland, i guess you could take a detour to orange... it's about 3 hrs west of sydney. Come and have a look for yourself.. :)

Preen59

26-03-2008, 05:38 PM

man they looks nice! your engine has so much trick stuff in it!!

Its not that trick.. :) I just think that with anything, you should work out what you can afford and then do the best thing you can for that budget.

Preen59

26-03-2008, 06:38 PM

Oh, i had to get a couple of valves back so a mate could borrow them to cut his seats in his 16v head, cause he got the same valves as me. So i took a pic of them..

http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/9684/260320081269gh5.th.jpg (http://img180.imageshack.us/my.php?image=260320081269gh5.jpg)

Turns out they're actually supertech valves. Which i'm not happy about. Not because they're no good but because i could have saved a heap buying them from an ebay seller rather than TT. :mad:

Preen59

26-03-2008, 07:55 PM

why are you bracing the foot well? extra stiffness or just thin floors?

Stiffness, my friend. It is the key.

Oneofthegreats

26-03-2008, 09:43 PM

Its not that trick.. :) I just think that with anything, you should work out what you can afford and then do the best thing you can for that budget.

Bingo! Hit the nail on the head.

I may have missed it but, how much power are you shooting for?

There's some nice part's there matey.

Those rod's look very nice. H-Beam, good material, good lubrication, come's with good hardware. Fairly light too at just under 600grams.

Valves look good too. Undercut stem's, look like there swirl polished too!

This should be a really nice & strong engine.

You weighing & balancing everything eg. Balancer, crank, flywheel, clutch together?

Also measuring for actual compression ratio?

How much compression are you aiming for & what camshafts?

(P.S. I'm just asking cause I love engine work & modifying)

Preen59

26-03-2008, 10:00 PM

Bingo! Hit the nail on the head.

I may have missed it but, how much power are you shooting for?

There's some nice part's there matey.

Those rod's look very nice. H-Beam, good material, good lubrication, come's with good hardware. Fairly light too at just under 600grams.

Valves look good too. Undercut stem's, look like there swirl polished too!

This should be a really nice & strong engine.

You weighing & balancing everything eg. Balancer, crank, flywheel, clutch together?

Also measuring for actual compression ratio?

How much compression are you aiming for & what camshafts?

(P.S. I'm just asking cause I love engine work & modifying)

Ok, well i'd like to get over 200 at the flywheel, which should be achievable.

Yeah the rods are 450 grams total, and the L19 bolts should be more than enough. Usually the bolts break before the rods if you don't use good stuff..

Yes the exhaust valves are swirl ground and inconel.

Silky said with a 4 cyl you don't need to balance the crank with bob weights, so the crank will be balanced static (its going to be out by HEAPS after i knife edged it). I will be getting the rods balanced to within .1gm and the flywheel/clutch will be balanced, obviously. I'll be getting silky to organise all that because (as you would appear to have enough knowledge to know) an awesome engine that has been badly balanced can turn into a real heap real fast.

Oh, and i don't mind sharing, we aren't competing in the same racing class in which i need those extra couple of tenths over you.. (Ah, the ways you learn to keep secrets in kart racing...) Ask me anything and i'll answer honestly. Thats why i like this forum, everyone is eager to help eachother. :)

GoLfMan

26-03-2008, 10:43 PM

Dude... There's NO WAY it'll be ready for the nats. Even if i had all the money right now to buy and do everything, i couldn't get it done.

But don't worry, i think i'll take the old man's Karmann Ghia.. Its pretty hot. You'll be impressed. I'll take youse for a drive in that. :)

If you're coming up to syd inland, i guess you could take a detour to orange... it's about 3 hrs west of sydney. Come and have a look for yourself.. :)

hahaha sounds great mate, definately will hop in the Ghia, love those cars, and i will return the favour in the ratty golf!!!
we'll see how we go for time but i'd love to take you up on the offer of seeing the car!

GoLfMan

26-03-2008, 10:46 PM

Preen59

27-03-2008, 06:38 PM

I'm just providing as much info as possible. Plus its an advantage to me to do it because its like keeping a diary on the progress for myself too.

:mad::mad: Tried to buy some lightweight lifters off an ebay seller in the US a minute ago... They don't ship to AUS so i've had to send them an email and ask if they can for me, I even explained how to with USPS, its surprising but so many Americans don't know how to ship internationally, they think its a real pain to do..

Hopefully this guy will OK me for the purchase, these INA lifters are 25 grams lighter than standard per lifter.

aliasmk2

27-03-2008, 07:31 PM

Preen59

27-03-2008, 07:49 PM

Just tell them that we here in Austalia are part of the coalition of the willing & we are with them not against them

HAHAHA, nice one dude. Very nice. The real problem is that most americans (well, who i met while i was over there) are just like us aussies really. The problem is that their government and media doesn't let them know what goes on outside of their country. Their news is all about them. ALL of it. So they are very unintentionally nieve.

aliasmk2

27-03-2008, 09:44 PM

Ye Ye I know,
I hate to put people into boxes, but I just could'nt let that one go.

Preen59

27-03-2008, 10:04 PM

Also measuring for actual compression ratio?

How much compression are you aiming for & what camshafts?

(P.S. I'm just asking cause I love engine work & modifying)

Sorry missed answering these questions..

Yes i'll be measuring for a comp ratio. I'm thinking 11:1. Any more and you start to run into trouble with fuels. Stupid crap aussie fuel. Although the E10 in town is pretty damn awesome, but you cant get that everywhere.

It's supposed to be 10.5 standard but we'll see.. :rolleyes: With the headwork the material taken out of the combustion chambers would have altered it a little but it should be interesting. Going to 1.9 means i will have a slightly higher ratio anyway so I shouldn't have to knock much off the head.

I'm going to run Techtonics Tuning 276 cams. 11.25mm lift. 111° lobe centre.
http://www.techtonicstuning.com/showpart.asp?partnum=109.570

Preen59

27-03-2008, 10:10 PM

Here's the cam card...

16V Sport Set: Part No: 109 570 Advertised Duration:276° Duration @0.050": 235° Lift In/Ex: .443” Lobe Center: 111° Inlet Opens @ 0.050": 6.7° BTDC
Characteristics: Rough Idle, Great Top End

MMMM, meaty.

Oneofthegreats

28-03-2008, 01:13 PM

Preen59

28-03-2008, 07:53 PM

That's a nice set of cam's mate.

But IMHO, with the compression ratio reaching 11.0:1, those cam's will be choking it a bit.

I'd go for something around the high 280's/low 290's with at least 240+ @ .050".

The lift & the lobe center's are on the money.

With increased capacity, lightweight internal component's & high compression ratio, you can afford to give up alittle low end power & you wouldn't even know.

I know twin cam's & 4 valve technology's alittle different but for eg. If I was building say a nicely ported early headed 308 V8 with 11:1 compression & using a solid flat tappet cam (roller cam's are a different story) I'd be fitting something with at least 300° total, 260+° @ .050" & over .600" lift. the power range would be 4300 - 8000rpm.

Very interesting. You obviously know a bit..

For this engine, i decided to go with those cams because they are big enough to keep up with the induction setup etc. Because i haven't built one of these engines before and neither has my old man, i'm treading on new ground, so if i go for something a little on the conservative side (without being stupidly conservative), i can get the engine running, tune it and see what its like. Then take it to some competitions and see how it fares, then if i decide hey, i think the engine could benefit from a bit more cam duration and lift for some more mid to top end sting, i can do it.

I decided it would be easier to do that than to go for too large of a cam and have something very cranky with no bottom end and have a bastard of a time trying to get it to work initially.

The 1.7 8v i have now has 11:1, and just a G grind cam. It seems to be quite okay with 11:1 and small valves, not so big cam, with a single 44 IDF.

I do thank you for your input though, its good to get an opinion that isn't just "what you're doing won't work". :)

Preen59

28-03-2008, 08:07 PM

Torque plate, anyone? :D

http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/6520/280320081274oz1.th.jpg (http://img149.imageshack.us/my.php?image=280320081274oz1.jpg)

Finished it today (started it this arvo too).

The engine is coming out tomorrow so i removed all the last bits on the engine and gearbox like cvs etc. Removed some skin from my knuckles too, stupids cars and their sharp edges EVERYWHERE. Pulled the extractors off too, managed to get them out the bottom. My arms are all itchy now from the fibres in the exhaust wrap sticking in me. :mad:

Here's a shot from underneath. Its pretty sad looking under there..

http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/4043/280320081272jg8.th.jpg (http://img149.imageshack.us/my.php?image=280320081272jg8.jpg)

Oneofthegreats

28-03-2008, 09:36 PM

I do thank you for your input though, its good to get an opinion that isn't just "what you're doing won't work". :)

That's cool.

There's no way I'd say it isn't going to work. Those will work pretty bloody good! I understand that starting off on the conservative side can make life easier later on. Especially with tuning.

I may have missed it, but induction setup are you using. Carb's or FI?

You've pretty nice machining skill's there matey. Would love to be able use that kind of machinery to it's full potential & be able to do work like that.

Preen59

28-03-2008, 10:32 PM

That's cool.

There's no way I'd say it isn't going to work. Those will work pretty bloody good! I understand that starting off on the conservative side can make life easier later on. Especially with tuning.

I may have missed it, but induction setup are you using. Carb's or FI?

You've pretty nice machining skill's there matey. Would love to be able use that kind of machinery to it's full potential & be able to do work like that.

I'm going to be running twin Weber 45 DCOE's.

Heh, i'd want to be able to do work like that, its my job. But thanks for the complement. :).

Its fun running the big Cincinnati CNC mill full biccies, but not so fun having to clean up after the floor is covered in aluminium chips in a 6 metre radius around the mc.

Preen59

29-03-2008, 11:51 AM

Pulled the engine out this morning. It was a snack to do, i had it out before the old man got there to give me a hand!

Found a broken engine mount bracket in the process, might have been the reason for the exhaust knocking at idle every now and then.

I think i'll make a new billet one and make it a bit beefier.

http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/5699/290320081275qz1.th.jpg (http://img262.imageshack.us/my.php?image=290320081275qz1.jpg)

Nasty..

Now comes the fun part with the cleaning and painting everything and removing crappy wiring and all that stuff.

Preen59

02-04-2008, 05:49 PM

New wing mirrors! (Thanks Andrew)

I decided i wanted the early mirrors back on the car. These are Brazilian ones but hey they are reasonable quality.

http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/7346/020420081276hg4.th.jpg (http://img150.imageshack.us/my.php?image=020420081276hg4.jpg)

Golf Loon

02-04-2008, 06:12 PM

Are you doing this to a 4 door??
Schweet, there are not enough 4dr 16vs.

Preen59

02-04-2008, 06:16 PM

Are you doing this to a 4 door??
Schweet, there are not enough 4dr 16vs.

Gees Matt, you didn't JUST notice that did you?? j:

Yeah i'd like to do a 2 door one day but too many people do 2 doors because its "the go". I thought i told you i had a 4 door? Maybe not..

Jarred

02-04-2008, 06:31 PM

year 4 door FTW, i like em, in fact I didn't even want a 2dr. I just happened to get one. thats all. besides that. It's looking good, and flag mirrors are scweet too!

Preen59

02-04-2008, 09:46 PM

Yeah i decided the big mirrors were too bulky and the drivers side one was old and the passenger side one was an aftermaket one and it was just crap and i was unhappy with it, so i though stuff it. They're going.

I wanted to put the flags back on it to neaten it up and keep with the subtle thing i've got going.

Unfortunately it will only be subtle when its stationary and the engine isn't running. :D

twin eng, twin turbs

03-04-2008, 08:07 AM

Ok, well i'd like to get over 200 at the flywheel, which should be achievable.

Yeah the rods are 450 grams total, and the L19 bolts should be more than enough. Usually the bolts break before the rods if you don't use good stuff..

Yes the exhaust valves are swirl ground and inconel.

Silky said with a 4 cyl you don't need to balance the crank with bob weights, so the crank will be balanced static (its going to be out by HEAPS after i knife edged it). I will be getting the rods balanced to within .1gm and the flywheel/clutch will be balanced, obviously. I'll be getting silky to organise all that because (as you would appear to have enough knowledge to know) an awesome engine that has been badly balanced can turn into a real heap real fast.

Oh, and i don't mind sharing, we aren't competing in the same racing class in which i need those extra couple of tenths over you.. (Ah, the ways you learn to keep secrets in kart racing...) Ask me anything and i'll answer honestly. Thats why i like this forum, everyone is eager to help eachother. :)

You sure will have to have your crank and flywheel balanced after lightening and knife edging. Of the three cranks i have knife edged ( i did my forged stroker crank yesterday he he) they were all out at least 30 grams and the flywheels a similar amount! But static balancing is not enough it needs to be dynamically balanced properly at 500 rpm. If it is out you risk bearing damage at high rpm or in the worst case sinario a spun main and ka boom! Interestingly i have run four 86.4mm stroke cranks on the balancer and from the factory they were within 3 grams out of balance! You only need bob weights on 6 and 8 cylinder cranks

Preen59

03-04-2008, 03:41 PM

You sure will have to have your crank and flywheel balanced after lightening and knife edging. Of the three cranks i have knife edged ( i did my forged stroker crank yesterday he he) they were all out at least 30 grams and the flywheels a similar amount! But static balancing is not enough it needs to be dynamically balanced properly at 500 rpm. If it is out you risk bearing damage at high rpm or in the worst case sinario a spun main and ka boom! Interestingly i have run four 86.4mm stroke cranks on the balancer and from the factory they were within 3 grams out of balance! You only need bob weights on 6 and 8 cylinder cranks

Sorry static i meant as in no bob weights (because like you said you don't need them on a 4 cyl), Silky is going to get everything dynamic balanced in Canberra.

twin eng, twin turbs

16-04-2008, 07:53 PM

Preen59

17-04-2008, 06:36 PM

You should post some pics of your engine goodies like bonks head job he gave you he he on your cylinder head that is! So do you want a ride to the nats this year guaranteed we will get there fast! Ill even let you drive the turbs mk2. Is tom coming?:cool:

Haven't got the head back yet, otherwise i would have many pics so i could boast about having one of the best 16v heads in australia :D. I'm taking the Karmann Ghia to the nats this year, but i'll take you up on the drive. :).

Got my bearings today (again, thanks Andrew!) and fitted my rod bearings. I'll fit the mains next week and mic everything up so that i can get the crank individually ground to exact size to give it top tolerance (highest) clearance on each journal, a must for a high revving engine.

I've also been offered a part time position as Race Engineer for a guy who runs a V8 supercar in the Fujitsu series, which should be some fantastic experience aswell as a good boost in my weekly income. :D

GoLfMan

17-04-2008, 06:45 PM

I've also been offered a part time position as Race Engineer for a guy who runs a V8 supercar in the Fujitsu series, which should be some fantastic experience aswell as a good boost in my weekly income. :D

dude mega jealous of you right now!!!!

i wanna see this car when im up in sydders and have a few cold bevvies mulling over it

Preen59

17-04-2008, 06:56 PM

dude mega jealous of you right now!!!!

i wanna see this car when im up in sydders and have a few cold bevvies mulling over it

Its JUST a mk1 4 door you know? I like it and i'm happy with what i'm doing, but its nothing that flash. Except the donk, it'll be pretty serious. Once i'm finished i'm going to build a full on race 1.8 16v. Solid lifter head light weight everything 9500rpm type stuff.

Edit: Having said all that, i'm glad theres other people that like it too. Thanks for the complements. :)

GoLfMan

17-04-2008, 08:40 PM

Its JUST a mk1 4 door you know? I like it and i'm happy with what i'm doing, but its nothing that flash. Except the donk, it'll be pretty serious. Once i'm finished i'm going to build a full on race 1.8 16v. Solid lifter head light weight everything 9500rpm type stuff.

Edit: Having said all that, i'm glad theres other people that like it too. Thanks for the complements. :)

deerrrrr its just a mk1 4 door, i just love the serious engine prep thats going into this 16v, its old school cool with some nice engine building and engineering going into it, not just bolt on sh$t ;)
to hell if its a 4 door, extra practicality :?

Jarred

17-04-2008, 11:40 PM

I too like what you're doing with your mk1. taking the time to do it proper and making it look pretty sweet along the way. lookg forward to more updates for sure!

oh, and well done with the future job prospects!

twin eng, twin turbs

19-04-2008, 08:55 AM

Preen59

20-04-2008, 05:25 PM

I'm taking the Karmann Ghia to the nats this year, but i'll take you up on the drive. :).

Thats awesome your taking the karmann ghia it should be shown off more often as it is probably one of the cleanest ive seen! But it stiill dosn't have water cooling.... As yau know we have the same supertech oversize valves but did you realise that they are boardering on to big on the exhaust side and almost require new oversize seats aswell! See how yours go when they are cut and you'll no what i mean.

Hmm interesting. I think bonk is getting G and G to do my head so i'll just have to see how it goes. The head is a 9a head and was very low K's when i got it, not that it makes much difference. Bonk said that .5 out of the throat of the insert should be fine, i hadn't taken a look though, because the head had no cams in it so all the valves were shut.

Preen59

21-04-2008, 08:11 PM

More progress today.. Slightly.

MIC'd up the big end and main bearings.

The rods varied .02mm between them, but the mains were all within .005mm, which is 3/8ths of a mickey hair of stuff all. So i'll get the mains on the crank ground all to a set size and i'll only worry about individually sizing the big end journals.

Here's a pic when i was doing it, obviously i've left the bearings in the rods and the mains i have kept them in sets and numbered for the corresponding cap.

http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/4184/210420081299km3.th.jpg (http://img148.imageshack.us/my.php?image=210420081299km3.jpg)

Oh, and i worked out why the 16v's and later have 3 piece centre bearings too. Making the centre thrust bearing in 3 pieces enables them to use a normal bearing for the journal and 4 thrust bearings that are all identical.

What this does is allow them to only have to tool for the 2 bearings, which is far cheaper and less complicated with no need for changeover etc, but also it means that on the production line they only need to have the 2 types of bearing available, this reduces logistical and mismatched part issues, which lowers the chance of running out of the parts on the production line.

You may not think that's interesting but i do. :)

GoLfMan

21-04-2008, 08:39 PM

i think its very interesting and its a smart move to by VW production...

engineering like that i love except for when it is used to cat corners in quality and durability which it too often is!

Preen59

21-04-2008, 08:57 PM

i think its very interesting and its a smart move to by VW production...

engineering like that i love except for when it is used to cat corners in quality and durability which it too often is!

Tell me about it. I work for a white goods manufacturer. "We can save $450 000 a year if we go from .55mm steel to .45" And i say "yes, but if we do that, scrap will go up, the machines will be more temperamental" etc etc, and they say "well there's a cost reduction here, you guys will have to make it work". Engineering being controlled by accountants.. Gotta love it. :mad:

I'm glad to be back in the toolroom away from that crap again. :)

Oneofthegreats

21-04-2008, 09:19 PM

Preen59

21-04-2008, 11:49 PM

Good to see more progress & top notch work on this.

What are you setting up your clearances to?

Don't know what the VW spec is, but I try & set my V8 stuff up with 0.0025" big end's & main's.
End float - 0.006"

Also with ring's I go.

Top Ring .0045" for every inch of Bore eg. 80mm = 3.149"
2nd ring .0050" for every inch of Bore
Oil Ring rail gap .015" for every inch of Bore

This may be the same for VW as a small engine is still an engine & still has to have tolerances

Good question..

I asked Collin at TT and he just quoted me out of the bentley book (he was looking it up while i was on the phone to him) so i'm probably going to go for standard clearance upper tolerance (higher clearance). I can't remember what they were but i do remember that the big ends were different to the mains. I will discuss it with Silky though, as i'm getting him to get the crank done anyway.

The ring gap you're talking sounds pretty run of the mill, but once again i'm not sure what gap i'll run at the moment. as you know you basically want as little as possible without it touching when it warms up.

**For anyone who doesn't know what we're talking about here, the ring gap is the gap between the 2 ends of the ring when it is in the bore, you simply measure it with feeler gauges.

You need a gap between the 2 ends of the ring when it is cold, because as the engine heats up (and the rings), the ring will grow, or get longer due to thermal expansion.

If the ring gap is inadequite, when the engine heats up and the ring grows, the ends will push together and the ring will distort and this does a few things:

-The ring deforms and nolonger seals on the bore, causing blow-by, blowby will overheat the ring and it will lose its tension.
-Also, when the ends touch, they push outward and score the bore.

So, when you go to put a new set of rings in because they've lost tension and you're getting too much crank case pressure and HP loss, when you hone the bore, the ring score will still be in the bore, and you will have to hone 2 or so thou or more out to clean it up.

Then you have too much bore clearance and you see where i'm going with this i'm tired, time for bed.

Any questions, just ask.

Jarred

22-04-2008, 01:27 PM

Preen59

22-04-2008, 06:07 PM

Yeah I get that. In theory only though. So expect alot of questions if I ever decide to rebuild an engine!

What happens, though, when the bores have too much clearance - do you need bigger rings to suit??

Yeah a ring will have a certain size it is made for, generally you get a ring that is a little big for your bore and file the end on one side to give the clearance you want. You quite simply push it in the bore (make sure its square) and measure the gap with a feeler, if it needs more, take it out and hit it with a flat smooth file to take off a couple of thou and re check.

When i was talking about the bore, i meant that you will end up with too much piston to bore clearance.

Preen59

22-04-2008, 06:49 PM

Got my Genuine VW motorsport windage tray today, along with my scirocco handbrake cables, new rack boots and new clutch cable end.

Got stuck into the oil pickup this arvo. I was mocking up the windage tray on the block and fitted the oil filter in when Dad came over to have a look, i wasn't thinking much of it, but he said "cut the bottom off that pickup, its too restrictive, thats the last thing you need". And he's right, they are.

I cut about 8mm off the bottom with a hacksaw and filed it down and i've ended up with almost double the surface area, which is, you know, good n stuff. :D

Heres some pics of the windage tray and pump.

http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/5876/220420081300gn2.th.jpg (http://img229.imageshack.us/my.php?image=220420081300gn2.jpg)
Whats it leaning up against? Come on Golfworx....

Here it is assembled

http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/2440/220420081301vk7.th.jpg (http://img229.imageshack.us/my.php?image=220420081301vk7.jpg)

And here's the pickup with the offcut.

http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/5408/220420081302fa6.th.jpg (http://img229.imageshack.us/my.php?image=220420081302fa6.jpg)

See how much more surface area the is..

Oneofthegreats

22-04-2008, 07:22 PM

Preen59

22-04-2008, 08:09 PM

Whooooo Hell Yehhhhh!!!

Very nice Blower with alcohol injector's.

Steering wheel for a dragster attendant,

A couple of old school wooden handles for a parachute, brake or fuel shut off.

If your at Nat's, we'll have to catch up for a chat. Would like to know more about this Hemi!

Where about's did you get your windage tray from?

I'm currently waiting on mine to arrive form the US. Cost me all of $38 US, as I brought a large shipment of part's.

I like the oil pickup mod. May do this to mine when I fit the tray!

Excellent explanation with the bearing's & ring's too!

Another thing with setting up ring gap, is what the engine is used for. A turbo engine should run a higher gap & from what I've learn't, a straight NOS race engine run's the largest gap (0.0070" - 0.0073 for every inch of bore), with a blown race engine right behind it (0.0060" - 0.0063").

Different manufacturer's also run different gap's to. Most company's run a larger top ring gap than a second.
JE on the other hand run a larger second ring gap to stop ring flutter on high rpm.

Another suggestion for race motor's is to gas port the piston crown's, which mean's you can use low tension ring's. This allow's the engine to spin up faster, as there's less drag/resistance. A engine's worst enemy for making power.

The handles are actually off the wheel but we have a matching brake lever.

Yeah i'll be at the nats, even if i have to lose a finger... No wait i take that back..

The barrel valve is set up for, and injector is jetted for nitro. We'll be able to run anywhere from 85 to 100 percent. OOo-right.

Here's something you'll find interesting.. The piston-to-bore clearance we'll be running on the hemi will be 12-14 thou, 4.050" bore. :D

I got the windage tray for US40.00 from Mk1 Autohaus on ebay. I've been buying a lot of stuff from him.

Yeah i think the oil pick up mod i did is a really good idea.

Also, i forgot to mention before.. My engine had suffered oil starvation at some stage. No. 1 cyl had grabbed in the bore on 4 points pretty bad, and 2 journals had picked up. Fortunately the pump is ok.

Yeah the ring gap application comment you made is spot on. The more combustion heat is produced the more the rings will expand. Power can't be confused with heat though, a methanol engine will produce more power than a petrol engine, but with less heat transfer due to the lower combustion temperature and the comparatively twice as rich charge.

And obviously at the other end of the scale you have the good old crown burner, NOS itself. Massive combustion temperature insisting on more ring gap.

Thanks for the info too. :)

Oneofthegreats

22-04-2008, 08:33 PM

No prob's.

Love talking engine's. Would love to get into a position one day to build/machine full time with them.

Nitro!!! Even better. At 95+% it will be a time bomb ;)

I'm suprised that's it's only a 4" bore too. Thought it would be bigger, then realized it's a 392! Same as bore size as a stock 308 Holden & 350 Chev. Except 0.050" up.
Must have a long rod/stroke ratio being a Hemi. Great for torque!

Must be the only new engine setup with piston slap! Ha ha.

Ben at Mk1 autohaus is the same bloke I've been speaking to. Really easy to deal with, very helpful & can highly recommend him. Just brought $450+ of part's for myself.

Preen59

22-04-2008, 08:47 PM

Yeah its 4" standard. We have to go over to clean it up. Big stroke yeah. I think the 426 is same stroke bigger bore. Same with the Donnovan 417 (The first purpose built all aluminium hemi).

I think i've spent about $500 with Ben over the last few months, he's a champ and really good to deal with.

Jarred

22-04-2008, 11:34 PM

Preen59

23-04-2008, 06:31 PM

wow. my head hurts.

sure is a lot of info going around here, and I'm glad for it.

I'm sure I'll absorb some of it. ;) hahahaha

and I want to see some vids of that Hemi once it's done! Sounds like it is defiantly going to be full hat!

Don't worry if you don't understand everything. I'm still not that clued up. You just pick things up as you go. :)

Oh and an update on that race engineer job.. Looks like i'm the man. :D Oscar Fiorinotto (used to be craig lowdes' engineer etc etc) is going to ring me tonight when he is free to discuss a few things and i'll probably be flying to Adelaide in the next couple of weeks to spend some time with him at his workshop learning some stuff before Sandown in 5 weeks. Very happy.

Jarred

23-04-2008, 06:34 PM

Oh and an update on that race engineer job..

WELL DONE! Best of lcuk with it, hope you enjoy it!

Oneofthegreats

23-04-2008, 06:37 PM

Awesome New's Preen.

Good luck with it all & hope it all work's out.

Either way it unfold's, you'll picking the brain's of some wizard's!

GoLfMan

23-04-2008, 07:51 PM

ohh congrats mate! thats awesome, mega jealous :D

Preen59

26-04-2008, 10:04 PM

Made my PTFE (Teflon) gudgeon buttons this evening. They came up quite good. I made them in matching sets for each individual gudgeon because they aren't all identical lengths, it probably wouldn't have mattered but it didn't cost me anything to get the exact length i wanted.

I've given them .5mm float in the bore and the radius is smaller than the rad of the piston so that there will be only single point contact in the centre. PTFE is very dimensionally stable above 23 degrees so there should be no trouble with thermal growth.

On to pics so you can so what i'm ranting about..

Here's a piston assembled with the pin and the buttons in..
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/1368/260420081305sc7.th.jpg (http://img215.imageshack.us/my.php?image=260420081305sc7.jpg)

And here's what the buttons look like.. Sorry, the pic is a little blurry.
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9257/260420081308kb4.th.jpg (http://img215.imageshack.us/my.php?image=260420081308kb4.jpg)

twin eng, twin turbs

01-05-2008, 09:17 PM

Preen59

01-05-2008, 09:39 PM

That awesome news bro, just an idea, you probably have allready checked your oil galleries but have a good look at the piston cooler jet from no 1 cyl for any damage or blockage. though it is probably a case of someone running poor oil and flogging it to score your crankshaft...

Yeah i've taken the plugs out of that gallery and removed the piston coolers, there's signs on all journals of wear due to lack of lubrication. But only one journal picked up.

Lucky i wasn't going to run it like it was huh, LOON. :)

Preen59

11-05-2008, 09:32 PM

Here's the VWfixx thread i started at the beginning of the resto.

http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=34054

You don't have to become a member to view it.

Preen59

12-05-2008, 06:05 PM

Got my brand new GENUINE dizzy today. 120 bucks US off ebay. Happy man. Should be ready to send all the gear to Silky very soon. Woo.

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/176/120520081318ea7.th.jpg (http://img84.imageshack.us/my.php?image=120520081318ea7.jpg)

GoLfMan

12-05-2008, 09:24 PM

i always look forward to progress on this car, that engines a killer mate :)

Preen59

12-05-2008, 09:58 PM

Thanks dude, all the crappy stuff is next though. With the car i mean not the engine.

Preen59

28-05-2008, 08:42 PM

Time for an update you say?

Well I just bought a head and main stud kit, plus a set of Supertech HD valve springs and Titanium retainers.. Take that, bank account!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=022&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=350051873834&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=290206186082&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=019

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=018&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=280205406923&rd=1

Woo! That felt goooooooood.

Jarred

28-05-2008, 08:44 PM

ebay, preeny's best friend and unofficial sponsor of VWW! hahah

Preen59

28-05-2008, 08:54 PM

ebay, preeny's best friend and unofficial sponsor of VWW! hahah

Haha, yeah.

I've found the stores on ebay to generally be the cheapest and there's no hassles. :D

Peter Jones

28-05-2008, 08:58 PM

Go Team E-Bay!!

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/04/P1290527-1.jpg

Pete

Preen59

28-05-2008, 10:19 PM

Go Team E-Bay!!

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/04/P1290527-1.jpg

Pete

Time for 'VWwA team ebay' stickers? :D how cool would that be! might jump on illustrator tomorrow..

Peter Jones

28-05-2008, 10:22 PM

Save the file as a 1 bit black and white .bmp, send it to me, and I'll cut you one!

Pete

Preen59

28-05-2008, 10:28 PM

Save the file as a 1 bit black and white .bmp, send it to me, and I'll cut you one!

Pete

Thats ok Pete, i have a mate with a $40k Mimaki CMYK colour printing machine and cutter.

But thanks! :)

When i get a design sorted i'll post it and if you like it i'll get some made.

Preen59

01-06-2008, 10:40 PM

Ordered a 2000 dollar media blasting cabinet today! Should be great for blasting various parts (the gearbox :D) etc. Its around a cubic metre in volume so it should be fantastic. Hoping it is going to pay for itself with the Kart engine heads and cylinders i can clean etc, plus any odd things people want done.

I'll post pics when we get it!

Jarred

01-06-2008, 10:43 PM

if only you lived near by! damn...

Preen59

01-06-2008, 10:44 PM

if only you lived near by! damn...

Anything small-ish, just post it dude. I won't steal your stuff..

Jarred

01-06-2008, 10:46 PM

Anything small-ish, just post it dude. I won't steal your stuff..

yea, but sending stuff costs money. You did meet me in sydney remember...?

I was the tight arse...

hahhaha

and not just cause Josh was trying to spoon me all night! hahah:D

Preen59

01-06-2008, 10:53 PM

yea, but sending stuff costs money. You did meet me in sydney remember...?

I was the tight arse...

hahhaha

and not just cause Josh was trying to spoon me all night! hahah:D

Well that's true, but i really think you opened up after a while.. ;) j:

GoLfMan

02-06-2008, 04:37 PM

ohh you guys are just perverse, not even a determined gay man with an electric shaver could get within cooeeyy of Jarred's hole i dont know how the crap escapes, ohh wait thats it, all comes out his mouth j:

Jarred

02-06-2008, 05:30 PM

hahahahahhahaha

all i'm going to do is laugh.

hahahahhahahaa

and smile lots haha

Preen59

02-06-2008, 07:16 PM

hahahahahhahaha

all i'm going to do is laugh.

hahahahhahahaa

and smile lots haha

Its all you can do really.

Jarred

02-06-2008, 09:22 PM

well i could take a pic of my ... and post it, but all ur comp screens would crack!

not too mention, all of you would be too afraid to go outside anymore...

static1800

03-06-2008, 08:08 AM

Lets get this back on topic guys...

Preen59

03-06-2008, 06:18 PM

Lets get this back on topic guys...

Just thinking that myself.

My parts should be here this week i'm hoping. If they don't turn up tomorrow i won't know untill tuesday next week cause i'm off to sandown for the V8's. :D

Preen59

11-06-2008, 10:38 PM

New media blaster turned up last week. Didn't have a chance to put it together due to Sandown (had a shocker, don't ask.. Got on TV though.. j: ).

So I started putting it together tonight. Looks like a pretty good unit, went together easy, looks like not bad quality too. For two grand, it'd want to be..

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/Sandblaster.jpg

Can't wait to start using it. Bonk (my mate who owns Auto one, we bought the unit from him) was saying after he got his it was kind of like "Man, how did i ever go without this thing!".

Preen59

11-06-2008, 10:42 PM

Oh, my mum also dug up some pictures of when her and Dad bought the goof from the wreckers in like 1995 and cleaned it all up and fixed it. Mum very nearly hung onto it too. Funny how things go. They sold it to Marty and 8 years later i bought it back..

Anyway i'll get the photos and scan them and post them tomorrow.

Jarred

11-06-2008, 11:00 PM

Coool fun.

I'll have to road trip up with a whole bunch of parts and get cleaned up sometime! hahahahah

Preen59

12-06-2008, 06:25 PM

Coool fun.

I'll have to road trip up with a whole bunch of parts and get cleaned up sometime! hahahahah

Go for it. Not sure whether that would be worth it or not..

Preen59

12-06-2008, 06:45 PM

My Supertech HD valve springs and Military grade (had to state that.. j: ) Titanium retainers turned up the other day. I hadn't had a chance to open the package until this arvo. The retainers are unbelievably light! The springs appear to be good quality. Well packaged too.

Here's a pic just to get under your skin, Josh!

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/SpringsRetainers.jpg

GoLfMan

12-06-2008, 09:08 PM

dam you dam you!!!
updates are few and far between bro hurry up! j:

Preen59

12-06-2008, 09:23 PM

dam you dam you!!!
updates are few and far between bro hurry up! j:

Gimme a break, dude! I've been really busy! You know the story, first you have the time and no money, then you start making more money and have no time!

I'm trying to get this stuff done. Now we've got the blaster i'll clean the gearbox up and blast that etc.

GoLfMan

12-06-2008, 09:46 PM

Gimme a break, dude! I've been really busy! You know the story, first you have the time and no money, then you start making more money and have no time!

I'm trying to get this stuff done. Now we've got the blaster i'll clean the gearbox up and blast that etc.

ill hear none of it!!! lol nah bro tottally understand :)

Preen59

13-06-2008, 10:42 PM

Got my stud kits today. :D. Can't beat ARP for quality. Very nice.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/Studkit.jpg

WABIT

13-06-2008, 11:54 PM

lol needs to be lower.

wabit

Preen59

14-06-2008, 04:53 PM

lol needs to be lower.

wabit

I don't get it..

WABIT

14-06-2008, 05:28 PM

lol neither did i... it was 12am man.... hehe

wabit

Preen59

14-06-2008, 06:17 PM

lol neither did i... it was 12am man.... hehe

wabit

Haha, nice one dude.

Mischa

15-06-2008, 11:07 AM

Preen59

15-06-2008, 08:17 PM

:O dude i just read your WHOLE thread start to finish. big cudos to you for doing all this work yourself. i feel silly now for my comment in sydney "oh yeh building a 16v aye, what've you done with it?". lots of inspiration in there...

Hahaha. The WHOLE thread? man, thats some reading! Yeah there's been some work done. Being sread out it doesn't feel like that much, but when you look back on it, i'd hate to tally up how many hours i've spent on it. But hey, its better than blowing it on alcohol and cheap thrills! :biggrin: Thanks for the complement man.

Preen59

17-06-2008, 08:58 PM

Did a little more tonight. I went to fit the head studs to the block the other day and the threads had a little corrosion etc in them and the studs were binding on them. I tried blowing them out but that didn't seem to work.

So, this arvo i made my own TPR Gingerbeering patented thread cleaner outerer. j: I just got an old 1.6 head bolt and ground 2 opposing flutes on it on the offhand grinder. If you don't have access to one, you could just use an angle grinder and be careful.

I would have just used a tap for this, but the bolts are 11mm dia by 1.5mm pitch. Why didn't they just use 12mm? :?

Anyway time for pics.

Here's the block with all the studs in and the torque plate slipped over the top.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/170620081443-1.jpg
I just wanted to make sure i didn't screw up on the dimensions when i made it. Thankfully, i didn't. :biggrin:

And here's a shot of the bolt i modified. Its a little hard to see.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/170620081444.jpg

GoLfMan

17-06-2008, 09:31 PM

what does the torque plate do again mate? nice piece of machining there ;)

Preen59

17-06-2008, 09:47 PM

what does the torque plate do again mate? nice piece of machining there ;)

Its to extend the cylinders so i can run longer rods.. j: Nah just kidding, you torque it down when you bore and hone it to distort the block 'out of true' so that it is actually 'true' when the head is torqued onto it. If you measure the bore under no tension after it has been bored and honed torqued up, it will be all over the place.

By the way, did you notice the TPR Engineering logo? :biggrin: A guy i know has converted an old bridgeport mill into a CNC mill and does all kinds of stuff like that.

GoLfMan

17-06-2008, 09:55 PM

thats awesome mate thats for the explanation :D

Preen59

17-06-2008, 10:22 PM

thats awesome mate thats for the explanation :D

Anything for you, Josh. Anything. :mowlawn:

Oneofthegreats

17-06-2008, 10:32 PM

Preen59

17-06-2008, 10:34 PM

Very nice work & good to see more progress.

Good explanation on the torque plate too.

It's a big misconception about why they are used. You should also use one of these when your grout filling a block fo rthe same reason.

It's alway's nice to be alittle closer to driving it.

Wonder if the torque plate will suit a 20VT. :idea:

Check the thread, Head and Block Drawings in tuning and performance i started. Download the PDF. check the dimensions against yours. I didn't know you had a 20vt?

Oneofthegreats

17-06-2008, 10:47 PM

Check the thread, Head and Block Drawings in tuning and performance i started. Download the PDF. check the dimensions against yours. I didn't know you had a 20vt?

Yep. I've had one since 2000. I brought the engine basically brand new with only 30K on it. It's also the AGU big port one.

I had it fitted into my 83 GTI around 2001/02 which if I had it going would have been the first out here I think, but other stuff came up & it got put on the back burner.

Also have a GT3076R (.82 A/R exhaust housing), 38mm Tial wastegate, billet fuel rail, etc. Just need coin for some rod's, piston's, cams, 630cc injector's, fuel reg, ECU & exhaust.
Everything else is there.

I was originally chasing 240fwkw's, but have been advised with the setup it should easily make nearly 300fwkw's on about 26-28psi. My plan was if I could blow the tyres off at 80km/h, I'd be happy.
Well maybe alittle more than happy.

GoLfMan

18-06-2008, 07:08 AM

Anything for you, Josh. Anything. :mowlawn:

i like the sound of that :biggrin:

It should easily make nearly 300fwkw's on about 26-28psi. My plan was if I could blow the tyres off at 80km/h, I'd be happy.
Well maybe alittle more than happy.

Tim i'd be happy with that aswell :eek:

gtimk5

18-06-2008, 10:00 AM

This is an awesome thread! Thanks Chris for showing us all the ins and outs of building a bulletproof motor.
Thanks,
Andrew :)

Preen59

18-06-2008, 08:45 PM

Yep. I've had one since 2000. I brought the engine basically brand new with only 30K on it. It's also the AGU big port one.

I had it fitted into my 83 GTI around 2001/02 which if I had it going would have been the first out here I think, but other stuff came up & it got put on the back burner.

Also have a GT3076R (.82 A/R exhaust housing), 38mm Tial wastegate, billet fuel rail, etc. Just need coin for some rod's, piston's, cams, 630cc injector's, fuel reg, ECU & exhaust.
Everything else is there.

I was originally chasing 240fwkw's, but have been advised with the setup it should easily make nearly 300fwkw's on about 26-28psi. My plan was if I could blow the tyres off at 80km/h, I'd be happy.
Well maybe alittle more than happy.

VERY nice. Even though i don't like turbo engines, i respect the 20vt. Bullet proof engine and a very nice head and block. I'd love to build a blown one on alcohol.. Mech. Injected ofcourse!

If the torque plate will fit you're more than welcome to have a lend of it. I'll even turn up the stud spacers for you, if you give me the face to face distance.

Preen59

18-06-2008, 08:49 PM

This is an awesome thread! Thanks Chris for showing us all the ins and outs of building a bulletproof motor.
Thanks,
Andrew :)

Thanks mate. Now you know what those bearings you sold me a doing.. :D

twin eng, twin turbs

18-06-2008, 10:42 PM

Good to see my 1.6 bolt worked a treat on your threads. Oh to be at electrolux again with time to do any machining you like... The torque plate will fit a 20vt im 99 percent sure.

Preen59

19-06-2008, 06:55 PM

Good to see my 1.6 bolt worked a treat on your threads. Oh to be at electrolux again with time to do any machining you like... The torque plate will fit a 20vt im 99 percent sure.

Not anymore dude. I do most of this stuff in my own time. :( Especially at the moment. One of the press operators at the door line put a clamp in the wrong spot and entered the new door skin die, the clamp fouled, and BANG, it broke the side out of 2 dieblocks and smashed 3 punches. So Matt and I have been flat out making new die blocks and punches. Cream. :D But atleast i still have all the equipment available to me. :D

Preen59

24-06-2008, 08:29 PM

Small update.

Spoke to Bonk today and he said he should have my head done by the end of next week. He said he is very happy with the way it flows and very happy with the ports. Apparently it was pretty good straight up and all he has done is open the exhaust ports up a bit and straighten up the inlets. He has cut the seat throats out and recut the seats for the bigger valves too, ofcourse. Anyway, i'll post pics when I get it back so you guys can have a look.

By the way Stu (Valver), tell me how it looks compared with your ports in the turbo ABF. I know it's a different application and you'll probably have much larger exhaust ports (and possibly more volume behind the inlet valves?), but i'd be interested to know what you think, considering you have a proven engine (well, dyno wise anyway).

Valver.

24-06-2008, 08:39 PM

By the way Stu (Valver), tell me how it looks compared with your ports in the turbo ABF. I know it's a different application and you'll probably have much larger exhaust ports (and possibly more volume behind the inlet valves?), but i'd be interested to know what you think, considering you have a proven engine (well, dyno wise anyway).

I've got a load of flow bench figures somewhere, so it'll be interesting to have a look. What valve sizes are you going up to? Mine are standard in the 16vT head, but with really nice porting so it'll be interesting to see what figures you can get :)

Preen59

24-06-2008, 08:49 PM

I've got a load of flow bench figures somewhere, so it'll be interesting to have a look. What valve sizes are you going up to? Mine are standard in the 16vT head, but with really nice porting so it'll be interesting to see what figures you can get :)

.5 OS inlet and exhaust. I don't have an air pump.. :D

I'm pretty sure Bonk's flow bench isn't computer controlled. I think he made it himself with a U gauge etc. I'm not really sure as i've never seen it. Actually i've never had to chance to have a good look at a proper flow bench before. I understand all the flow characteristics and what does what for flow/volume/atomisation etc but as far as knowing what a "good" figure is for a specific engine i'd be lying if i said i knew. Most of my engine experience comes from 2 strokes (Karts) from years of testing (and recently building) engines with my engine builder, so i have a good understanding of everything, but i'm still learning with car engines in terms of head design etc (heck i'm still learning with kart engines).

twin eng, twin turbs

24-06-2008, 10:39 PM

Ill have to check out bonks handy work on your head aswell, after seeing what he did with matt's GSR head it should be the impressive but not overboard. His flowbench is a good setup, not bad to have in your shed at home!

Preen59

24-06-2008, 10:51 PM

Preen59

25-06-2008, 06:23 PM

Here's a treat for you..

I dug up the photos of the Golf back when my parents bought it from THE WRECKERS (!!!) in 1994.

It was in a bad way cosmetically and wasn't running very well. Dad said the engine was a little sluggish and it had a flat spot on initial throttle. So he took it to the workshop one night to try and sought the flat spot out, only to find the cam timing was THREE TEETH retarded! Most engines wouldn't even start like that! He fixed the cam timing and the car took off!

So here's some pics when they first got it, in the back yard at the old house. Dad has basically no grey hair! And if you look closely he's wearing a '93 Volkswagen Spectacular jumper. :D

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/scan0001.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/scan0002.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/scan0003.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/scan0006.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/scan0007.jpg

Mum said she spent quite literally hours vacuuming the inside of the car.

I found the pics from the 89 VW nationals, 91 and 93 spectacular too. I might post them in the general chat later on if i can be bothered scanning them.

Preen59

25-06-2008, 06:29 PM

And here it is all cleaned up, polished and conditioned inside and out.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/scan0008.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/scan0009.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/scan0010.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/scan0011.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/scan0012.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/scan0013.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/scan0014.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/scan0015.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/scan0016.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/preen59/scan0017.jpg

They sold it to Marty (Twin eng, twin turbs) in 94. Mum very nearly sold the beetle (which you can see vaguely in the background under the carport) to keep the blue goof.

And in 03 i bought it back off Marty. Funny how things go.

Oneofthegreats

25-06-2008, 07:21 PM

Preen59

25-06-2008, 07:44 PM

Orrhhh Man!

Imagine if it was still in the same condition today! Even has the radio delete cubby house.

I'd be leaving it exactly the same, but with your 16V stuffed where you can't see it.

Now that would be a pissa!

Haha, yeah i know! I was thinking EXACTLY the same thing when i was looking at the pics. If only..

Actually there's a spice red 4 door in town that if i had some spare cash, i'd love to make an offer to them.. Its got a BBS bodykit on it too. Not sure if it's a genuine BBS kit, but similar.

ausgolfer

25-06-2008, 11:50 PM

Preen59

26-06-2008, 05:14 PM

Hey preeny top work, getting me motivated to work on my engine.:bowdown:

Just a question regarding the teflon gudgeon buttons you made, do they replace the gudgeon circlips? or are they also in place? I imagine if they repalce them they allow the pin a little more freedom/less wear? and the circlips sometimes fail if I'm not mistaken?

Hey dude,

Thanks for the compliments.

Yeah they replace the clips. And yeah you're exactly right, to create less drag, less wear and so there aren't any clips that can break.

DubSteve

26-06-2008, 05:21 PM

Preen59

26-06-2008, 05:42 PM

Preen my man to put it bluntly whose the man, YOU THE ***** MAN!!!

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2008/06/1368355119_2f44bc6d47_ogif-1.jpg

Also Chuck Norries Approves

Well done dude :D

Stop it man you're making me blush... j: Thanks dude.

I'm yet to read your entire project but i will have to, the bits i read were very interesting.

Wow, Chuck Norris? Gees man, i'd be happy with NOT getting roundhoused by him, let alone getting his approval!! I mean, that guy counted to infinity... TWICE! :D.