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kamold
01-12-2014, 07:13 PM
I am now the VERY proud owner of an MY09 R36 wagon. :banana:
13388

Thought I'd start a thread just to document the little mods I do along the way, as I've enjoyed reading similar threads from other members.

Bought at >60K, in very good condition, no changes from factory:
Biscay Blue, powered tailgate, RNS510, RVC.

First change was just updating the RNS from the original 0900 software (!?) to 4120 with my custom partition ratios. Updated maps, added Aussietig's POI database, then an R splashscreen (http://www.netdata.be/iso/?old=vw#).

Installed the MObridge Bluetooth unit that had been installed my Octavia from the dealer. Its almost as good as the 9w7 except that it doesn't support AVHCP, so I can't control streaming music from the steering wheel, and it doesnt show the track/title info on screen. So eventually I'll replace it.

Next up I got an ECU and DSG tune from CPI as they had the special running with the DSG tune for free.
Haven't had a chance to properly test it but so far so good, just a touch more urge through the band and more up at the top. DSG feels smoother in day to day driving and totally seamless in sport. Downshifts in sport also not too forceful.

Today a few LEDs arrived.

Installed a cheap interior set from Aliexpress (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Passat-B6-CC-4pcs-set-Super-Bright-Premium-auto-LED-interior-Map-Dome-light-reading-lamp/1814806079.html)
Comprises all interior dome lights, glove box, boot and license plate (these ones didn't fit which I wasn't phased about as I have some proper ones ordered). Looks much more modern, I personally can't stand filament globes any more.

Next I installed some T10 LEDs (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-x-Canbus-Error-Free-Car-T10-LED-High-Power-1-5W-Wedge-Light-Bulb-W5W-194-168/291279928995?_trksid=p3693.c100102.m2452&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D20140212121249%26meid%3D906de6a330b2480b948 46571a8ae576b%26pid%3D100102%26prg%3D2014021212124 9%26rkt%3D4%26) for the horrible yellow parkers.

Apologies in advance for phone pics...

Original parkers with low beams as comparison:
13392

One original, one LED:
13393

Both LEDs, with low beam xenons:
13394

JB's Dub
02-12-2014, 08:51 AM
Looks mint. I love it.

snerlo
02-12-2014, 01:12 PM
Looks good mate. The only thing I haven't done yet with mine is do the interior lights. Keen to hear your thoughts. Are they much brighter than the stock filament globes? I am more worried about having the lights whiter than having them brighter. Would be good to see a photo if you can. Cheers.
Check out some of my threads that I have started. There is a couple more ideas that you can do to yours as well.

kamold
02-12-2014, 02:09 PM
Yeah they are brighter than stock, as well as being white.
The individual SMD LEDs are visible through the plastic diffuser which is not ideal, but it doesn't overly bother me personally.
Will take a pic tonight, wife has taken the R36 for a drive for the first time, so hopefully I get it back, as she stole my last car :)

kamold
02-12-2014, 07:28 PM
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/12/69d2180753a52649868f015929f2fb9c-1.jpg

Pretty difficult to get a real idea via a phone shot but you can see it's very white...

snerlo
02-12-2014, 08:39 PM
Cool. Thanks mate. Does it come with the footwell lights as well

kamold
02-12-2014, 08:54 PM
Actually I need to check . Perhaps what I thought are incorrect license plate leds are footwell. Will let you know.

snerlo
03-12-2014, 08:20 AM
No problems. Remembering that the normal festoon bulbs fade when you shut the door etc. How do the LED's go with the fade effect?

kamold
03-12-2014, 09:21 AM
I just tested them, they actually do fade, just for not as long as the filament globes.

snerlo
03-12-2014, 01:24 PM
cool. Will look at purchasing some from your link. Did you end up seeing if they come with the footwell lights as well?

kamold
03-12-2014, 01:29 PM
Yeah I checked they aren't footwell lights.

snerlo
03-12-2014, 05:43 PM
ok, thanks for checking. Guess that has to be a separate buy then!!

kamold
03-12-2014, 06:00 PM
Yep already have them ordered.

snerlo
03-12-2014, 08:44 PM
Link or it didnt happen! ��

kamold
03-12-2014, 08:58 PM
Footwell lights (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Led-Footwell-light-for-VW-Golf-6-GTI-Jetta-MK5-MK6-CC-Tiguan-Passat-B6-4pcs/1194520836.html)
Door warning lights (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Led-door-warning-light-for-VW-Golf-6-GTI-JETTA-MK5-MK6-CC-Tiguan-Passat-B6/1194027284.html)
Puddle lights (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/VW-Volkswagen-LED-Passat-CC-Scirocco-LED-Side-Marker-Fender-Light-Turn-Signal-Lamp-2pcs-pack/1703414831.html)
License plate lights (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Rear-Registration-Plate-Ligh
t-Bulb-LED-Number-License-Plate-Lamp-for-Audi-A4-B8-A5-Q5/1298510926.html)
Chrome Switchgear (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Chrome-Headlight-switch-Side-mirror-switch-Window-lifter-switch-Kit-VW-CC-Tiguan-Sagitar-Jetta-MK5/1416457571.html)

Jakeys
03-12-2014, 11:09 PM
Actually I need to check . Perhaps what I thought are incorrect license plate leds are footwell. Will let you know.

We discovered after I bought the same LED license plate panels that snerlo bought that there was a license plate light revision at some point. Yes, really. That may be why your license plate lights don't work. His were festoon, mine had been revised to the same globes as the parkers and mirror puddles.

I like your parkers, I had the same thought, the factory filament parkers next to the xenons look ridiculous, don't know what the hell VW were thinking with that. I also would suggest swapping your bend lighting (The corner lights that come on) with Philips BlueVision at some point, LED's don't work there because of the slow fade out the car does. And also, don't just put an LED globe in your mirror puddles, TRUST ME, buy the proper panels like in snerlo's thread somewhere. The mirror puddles are by far my favourite LED mod and probably one of the best LED mods I've ever seen for a car. Refer:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/

As for interior, I prefer the warm glow of the incandescent globes in there so I've kept those as is. Personal preference, exterior LED and interior incandescent. :D

kamold
04-12-2014, 05:56 AM
Yep I am getting proper panel leds for the puddle lights.
The license plate lights are filament in mine.
The two leds I have left are offset filament replacements so they may be for something else interior that I haven't figured out yet...

kamold
15-12-2014, 11:34 AM
So I got the license plate LEDs (http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_14186071186736&key=6b85f23da221d5c8d47e9c6917e8959c&libId=5f8cbaf5-b722-4c10-a35e-7ab2ab45a825&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.vwwatercooled.com.au%2Fforums %2Ff27%2Fkamolds-r36-101704-2.html&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aliexpress.com%2Fitem%2FRear-Registration-Plate-Ligh%253Cbr%2520%2F%253Et-Bulb-LED-Number-License-Plate-Lamp-for-Audi-A4-B8-A5-Q5%2F1298510926.html&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.vwwatercooled.com.au%2Fforums %2Ff27%2Fkamolds-r36-101704.html&title=Kamold%27s%20R36%20-%20Page%202&txt=License%20plate%20lights), and they are the wrong ones :(
They are too small, so dont push against the spring clip and fall back out.

Hopefully ordered the right ones this time...

Also the indicator/DRLs arrived!

Will be trying to find the time later on this week to do the install. Will do a write up afterwards.
As expected the instructions are as good as useless. Just a single sheet of badly photo copied Chinese.

Thankfully the actual product looks very well manufactured.

Jakeys
15-12-2014, 12:37 PM
Awesome, post some nice detailed pics of the manufacturing quality? :D

Can't wait for the first in depth review of these, and/or snerlo's comparison of the cheaper and more expensive models. Which did you get? I am thinking I want the cheaper one as I actually prefer it to have less LED's, seems more like the factory ones which are typically only 4-5 LED and the LED's are quite pronounced.

snerlo
15-12-2014, 04:38 PM
I literally just got given the more expensive version of DRL!! Now, to find time to test them!!

kamold
17-12-2014, 03:50 PM
Will do a full write up later, as I am going to be doing this in fits and starts.
Have the bumper off and leds installed.
Next step is to run wires through the firewall to the fuse box, mount the control box and secure the cabling.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/12/c6b6328076d0c3d72ecac92c0ed978df-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/12/d190d56532c3da99f85f3673bbc1d2cc-1.jpg

kamold
22-12-2014, 07:52 PM
Here they are installed:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxzK03AosUc

Also took some time over a few nights to do a bit of paint correction with my new Mint RO polisher and some Menzerna polish, finshed off with some Dodo Juice Supernatural hybrid wax/sealant.

Next step is to find some time to go for a proper drive somewhere!

Passat R36
22-12-2014, 08:52 PM
Well done! I am just too lazy to post mine.

Looks like you did not get the Flashing version, mine DRLs have two flashing modes, look like light dancing.

Jakeys
22-12-2014, 09:37 PM
Here they are installed:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxzK03AosUc

Also took some time over a few nights to do a bit of paint correction with my new Mint RO polisher and some Menzerna polish, finshed off with some Dodo Juice Supernatural hybrid wax/sealant.

Next step is to find some time to go for a proper drive somewhere!

Looks amazing and factory, can't wait for mine! How did you find the install process? I'm a bit nervous about that, so a writeup will be useful, as well as snerlo's! You have a very nice carport there by the way.

Only one thing, I noticed they dimmed with headlights but not parkers. Did you wire them this way on purpose? I thought they are meant to dim as soon as parkers come on.

kamold
23-12-2014, 06:16 AM
Install is fine apart from bumper removal of you go that route. Now that I've done it once would be much quicker.

I only built the carport a few months ago. Excalibur carports it comes as a kit.

I don't actually know what the legal requirements are but I connected the trigger to the main dipped beam. That way they don't flicker at startup, and I only want them to dim when the headlights turn on anyway as I won't be driving with just parkers now that I have the drls.

Jakeys
23-12-2014, 08:07 AM
Install is fine apart from bumper removal of you go that route. Now that I've done it once would be much quicker.

I only built the carport a few months ago. Excalibur carports it comes as a kit.

I don't actually know what the legal requirements are but I connected the trigger to the main dipped beam. That way they don't flicker at startup, and I only want them to dim when the headlights turn on anyway as I won't be driving with just parkers now that I have the drls.

Fair point. Just an FYI for yourself or anyone reading though, you can turn that flicker off with VCDS, it is called cold diagnosis and is found in the long coding for Central Electronics. You can disable it per light, will need to do it for any LED's you swap in.

snerlo
23-12-2014, 08:40 AM
Interested to know which wire you tapped into on the xenons mate.
Jakey, it really is an easy process. When you get yours, you can phone me and I will walk you through it while you are standing at the car. It really is a piece of cake mate. The front grill is really easy to take off. All it is is about 10 screws, and then gently prying it off as they have the plastic clips. Once you know what you are doing it's easy. I'll explain it to you. Just have a really good look at my photos with the grill off to get an idea of what things look like as I will explain a few things to you.

kamold
06-01-2015, 09:13 PM
Chrome swtichgear (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Chrome-Headlight-switch-Side-mirror-switch-Window-lifter-switch-Kit-VW-CC-Tiguan-Sagitar-Jetta-MK5/1416457571.html) finally arrived.
5 min install.
Light switch comes out just by pushing the dial in when set to '0' and rotating slightly clockwise, then pull the barrel out.
Window switches and mirror controls just as easy. Just pry the whole armrest thing up that has the switchgear in it with a trim tool. Pops off, swap over the switches.

Just adds a touch of faux chrome class to the cabin. Had them in the A3, just thought, 'why not?'
Didnt bother with the boot release/fuel filler release buttons because they are lower down, cant really see them that well.

Also installed the Philips H7 Diamond Vision (http://www.powerbulbs.com/us/product/diamond-vision-h7-twin-pack) globes in the turn lights a while back. They are pretty close to the HIDs in colour temp, look really good compared to the awful stock yellow globes.

snerlo
07-01-2015, 01:22 PM
Pics or it didn't happen mate!! :P

kamold
07-01-2015, 01:53 PM
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/01/c68b265c563f316cf754a5c2fb289ff5-1.jpghttp://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/01/7befc38132534099d1adf5a28af7daed-1.jpg

Jakeys
07-01-2015, 03:39 PM
Hey cool! Looks good. Been thinking about doing that myself, where'd you get it all, Bold-Sport, Aliexpress etc?

kamold
07-01-2015, 04:01 PM
Aliexpress. Link is in the previous post and beginning of the thread.

kamold
08-01-2015, 06:05 PM
Found an issue with the mirror controls: folding control and heating are swapped over. Will switch the pins over in the module at some point. Just fyi

The pins which need to be swapped from the rotary switch connector are pins 3 and 5.
Here is the factory wiring configuration before swap:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/01/7db3f613aa8ad121b267aa0c548ec778-1.jpg

snerlo
08-01-2015, 08:19 PM
Looks good mate. Well done

Jakeys
21-01-2015, 02:44 PM
Aliexpress. Link is in the previous post and beginning of the thread.

Pictures aren't loading for me at work now but do you have only the rear fog on your light switch? Because obviously the R36's don't have front fog option but the linked Aliexpress set from an earlier page shows both fogs. How did you fix this?

kamold
21-01-2015, 02:46 PM
Yes it has both fogs. There is nothing to fix as we don't have front fog lights.

Jakeys
23-01-2015, 08:39 AM
Yes it has both fogs. There is nothing to fix as we don't have front fog lights.

I know functionally there's nothing to fix, but it's not the right switch as it has the wrong labels. The reason I ask is that Bold Sport does sell the kit with the correct light switch or just the switch itself, however it is significantly more expensive than Aliexpress. :(

Link (http://www.bold-sport.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=chrome+switches&product_id=203).

kamold
23-01-2015, 08:42 AM
Hence my being fine with having the wrong one :)

Jakeys
23-01-2015, 08:52 AM
No chance of modding the alu switch bit onto your old switch?

kamold
24-01-2015, 07:17 AM
It's probably doable but works well enough for me so don't think I'll bother

seanmau5
24-01-2015, 11:39 AM
Hey mate, lovely looking wagon you've got yourself there.. Did you have an issue with the cheaper LED kit throwing bulb out errors on the dash when you installed the interior lights? Every cheaper LED (that is advertised as CANBUS) I've tried in my CC always throws them. I've found more expensive kits upwards of $70 USD that are guaranteed to work but seriously?? That much for LEDs?

kamold
24-01-2015, 03:22 PM
Never had an issue with interior bulbs as they aren't monitored by the ECM/CCM in any car I've had.
Can't speak for the BCM in the CC, might be different...

snerlo
24-01-2015, 06:03 PM
The only interior bulbs that i think are monitored that i have noticed is the footwell lights as i can see them flashing. I havent noticed the roof bulbs doing it

kamold
24-01-2015, 10:47 PM
Actually you are right there - footwells are monitored. Turned on cold diagnostics on them so they dont flicker at startup.

kamold
13-05-2015, 12:03 PM
After all the recent rain I noticed that the one of LED indicator/DRLs I installed had quite a lot of water inside it.

I removed the light assembly and the rubber grommet from the small hole in the back. Inside that there was a huge bag of silica desiccant balls. Only way I could get this out was by cutting the back open and slowly emptying all the silica, then removing the bag. This didnt actually help me though as blowing how air through there left no room for the water to evaporate out.

So I used a heat gun (wife's hair drier) to heat up the glue on the front cover and removed it. Then I dried out all the water and glued the front cover back on. I then blow on the hole at the back to ensure that it was properly sealed this time, and put it all back together. Hopefully will be all good from now.

snerlo
13-05-2015, 01:52 PM
Mate, I had exactly the same problem with mine. You should definitely go back to the seller as I am having issues with them at the moment. My little plastic deflectors in front of the led's have actually come off and are rattling around in there. I'm not happy with them and they know it. I have aliexpress on the case too. I had to open the gromet too and try and empty the water out but I didn't go as far as you have.

kamold
13-05-2015, 02:25 PM
Yeah I had one of the plastic diffusers loose also. I glued that back on.

I'll go back to them as well as ammunition for you. I woulnd't have bothered as I think I've fixed it but they need to know if they are producing sub-standard stuff....

Passat R36
13-05-2015, 04:29 PM
good luck with the seller, I had to buy 2.5 pairs of this DRL as 1 light was DOA and the replacement he sent again does not match the light temp. So I sent two DOA ones back to him by AUPOST and he claimed he never received, lucky aupost compensated a bit.

long story short I ended up with an extra spare light and a spare wiring loom, I can only hope all my current DRLs do not break, especially not on side I don't have a spare, lol

snerlo
13-05-2015, 05:22 PM
yeah, pain isn't it. I'll let you know how I go. I think mine leaked because the outside grey plastic had a big crack in it and I presume that is how the water got in there. Real pain in the you know what!!!

Jakeys
13-05-2015, 06:48 PM
I have not had the opportunity to wire mine in yet, they're just fitted up and plugged in for indicators until hopefully this weekend. I really hope I don't have the issues you guys have with mine! I noticed the row of indicators just sits below the reflector thingos barely following the curvature of the car which looks less than perfect, but luckily nobody is going to be paying a whole lot of attention to the individual LED positioning and you can only tell during the day not at night.

It's odd though, they paid a lot of attention to the wiring, and completely skimped on the insides it seems. I wonder if, if they fail, it would be worth just ripping the innards out and making your own custom interior, just using their controller and wiring.

ope126
13-05-2015, 08:12 PM
Chrome swtichgear (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Chrome-Headlight-switch-Side-mirror-switch-Window-lifter-switch-Kit-VW-CC-Tiguan-Sagitar-Jetta-MK5/1416457571.html) finally arrived.
5 min install.
Light switch comes out just by pushing the dial in when set to '0' and rotating slightly clockwise, then pull the barrel out.
Window switches and mirror controls just as easy. Just pry the whole armrest thing up that has the switchgear in it with a trim tool. Pops off, swap over the switches.

Just adds a touch of faux chrome class to the cabin. Had them in the A3, just thought, 'why not?'
Didnt bother with the boot release/fuel filler release buttons because they are lower down, cant really see them that well.

Also installed the Philips H7 Diamond Vision (http://www.powerbulbs.com/us/product/diamond-vision-h7-twin-pack) globes in the turn lights a while back. They are pretty close to the HIDs in colour temp, look really good compared to the awful stock yellow globes.

Hi Kamold,

It has been a few months since you have replaced the interior window switches etc.

How are they holding up?
Do they have the same look / feel / operation as the originals you replaced?
Also do the still light up with the same red colour, or a lighter colour?

Thanks in advance!

kamold
14-05-2015, 07:15 AM
Yeah the red light matches the other switchgear correctly.
The feel of the mechanisms is better than those they replaced.
I prefer the look with the chrome, hence the swap :)

eurobahn5
21-05-2015, 06:56 PM
how about this link:
who cares about LED's and how white and bright your lights are

kamold
21-05-2015, 07:04 PM
What link?

Jakeys
21-05-2015, 07:11 PM
how about this link:
who cares about LED's and how white and bright your lights are

Underlining text does not a link make... :P
Are you saying nobody cares about LEDs and brightness? That's absurd.

kamold
21-05-2015, 07:16 PM
Each to their own. If you prefer the look of lighting technology from the 19th century, then stick with filaments.
I personally think the R deserves the led look to compliment the otherwise attempt at Euro premium look...

Jakeys
22-05-2015, 01:18 AM
Each to their own. If you prefer the look of lighting technology from the 19th century, then stick with filaments.
I personally think the R deserves the led look to compliment the otherwise attempt at Euro premium look...

For me it's that they gave us xenon headlights with filament parkers. Absolutely absurd to have two completely different coloured globes in the same housing, when LED parkers cost like 50 cents. And then LED tails with filament license plate globes, so again you have a mismatch of light types and then when you've done those, you've got those amazing and SIGNIFICANTLY better LED mirror puddles as well, which not only look 50x better but actually do a way better job at what they're designed for as well. And then DRL's for good measure, and increased safety. You'd be insane not to retrofit the exterior globes to match correctly, it costs very little (Except maybe the DRL's) and produces a much, much better result.

I didn't do the interior though, I do prefer a warm light in there, and luckily with that it all does match, it's not a mismatch of LED and filament tech like outside. While the plate lights, parkers

eurobahn5
22-05-2015, 08:05 AM
Hi, there is no link, I was just sh*t stirring for a laugh, I actually do have some interest. A guy I know had his rear inner tail lamps converted so they were functional, that is, LED's were inserted so they matched the outer stop/tail lamps. So working tail lights and brake lights are happening. I'd imagine it would look very good...and unique. Apparently a guy in Melbourne does it, you just take out your own inners and send them to him, I think about $250-$350. Also Kamold, I would be interested to know how your engine and DSG tune is going ? I had my DSG tune by European Autotech in Sydney , which I am pleased with but curious to know how an engine ecu tune goes as there are so many 'nah sayers' due to the minimal gain.

kamold
22-05-2015, 08:34 AM
The taillight conversion would be a nice to have, but down on the list for me behind some other mods I want to do.
I've just done the outer ring software change.

Yeah there is not a lot of gain to be had obviously with an NA engine.
I haven't put it on a dyno, but would expect maybe +20kw and +35nm.
I got the tune mainly because it was a special offer with the DSG tune (2 for 1) otherwise wouldn't have bothered.

Jakeys
22-05-2015, 10:50 AM
I have done the outer ring change and the LED inner ring mod, courtesy of Buckets, who is the user you're talking about. He did a fantastic job and the look is amazing. Unfortunately I only have a really bad photo but believe me in real life the look is striking, I love it. Side effect, people mistake you for an R35 GT-R from a distance at night.

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/11110976_10206898585006917_4981712014126482653_n.j pg?oh=2a332384ad46c28da30bc2c8646b25a9&oe=55C9D7F6

Passat R36
22-05-2015, 11:03 AM
I have done the outer ring change and the LED inner ring mod, courtesy of Buckets, who is the user you're talking about. He did a fantastic job and the look is amazing. Unfortunately I only have a really bad photo but believe me in real life the look is striking, I love it. Side effect, people mistake you for an R35 GT-R from a distance at night.


looking good!

any wiring needed for the inner rings(apart from the mod on the inners)?

Jakeys
22-05-2015, 11:26 AM
looking good!

any wiring needed for the inner rings(apart from the mod on the inners)?

Yep but dead simple, just run them to your license plate lights as parkers are never on without those and if you ever do the side of the road lighting thing only your outer ring illuminates this way which I think looks better. Running to your original parkers is unnecessary pain for no gain. Very easy to detach the tailgate plastic (A few easily found screws and then just pull it off from the edges to unclip) and then a couple bolts and you have very easy access to your license plate light wiring. Solder two wires per light (I connected left inner to left license plate light and right to right so if one stops working I know which wiring to fix) and you are laughing. An hour's worth of work if you've never done it before.

Definitely recommend, especially if you've gone to the lengths of the factory fit DRL's (Hoping to get those done this weekend maybe if schedule permits!) and all the rest as I feel it completes the car. But this is Kamold's thread, I don't want to derail too much from his outstanding car!

kamold
22-05-2015, 12:01 PM
Jakeys, what are you doing to me??
Now I'll need to get them done too....eventually :)

Yeah they definitely look good and does make you wonder why this wasn't the factory look...

Colour cluster should be the next upgrade for me, followed by new steering wheel.

Jakeys
22-05-2015, 01:51 PM
Jakeys, what are you doing to me??
Now I'll need to get them done too....eventually :)

Yeah they definitely look good and does make you wonder why this wasn't the factory look...

Colour cluster should be the next upgrade for me, followed by new steering wheel.

I recommend it, Buckets is a champ to deal with and did a terrific job. If you look closely at your inners you will see factory holes for the LED's, at one time they definitely did plan to do this from factory. I assume they cut it either for weird regulations, budget reasons, or simply because they didn't want to be associated with the Skylines. Because, at night when you can't see the body, it is identical to a GT-R. I feel like it just puts it to how the VW designers originally intended them.

How hard/expensive is colour cluster? That'd be a cool mod but I don't mind it how it is. Is it just screen or are there more functions with the colour cluster, eg. needle sweeping which can't be enabled in VCDS for white MFD.

kamold
22-05-2015, 01:55 PM
Cluster is an easy swap and recode, but not cheap. And with some clusters on older Rs like mine you lose lighting and convenience options from the MFD (which you can still control with VCDS).
It's a colour screen, I'd imagine you can do staging (needle sweep) but I won't know until I install it.

snerlo
22-05-2015, 02:44 PM
About time we saw a photo Jake. Looks great mate!! Got me bloody thinking again now!!

Jakeys
22-05-2015, 04:47 PM
Cluster is an easy swap and recode, but not cheap. And with some clusters on older Rs like mine you lose lighting and convenience options from the MFD (which you can still control with VCDS).
It's a colour screen, I'd imagine you can do staging (needle sweep) but I won't know until I install it.

Yeah, right. You're right about losing the convenience menu for me as well. I might leave it... On staging, probably. I have the option in VCDS to do the staging but you are not able to enable it. Did the research, this is common to all R36's I believe, they just don't support the feature even though it is visible. It should be cluster based though so in theory you would be able to switch it on once you have the newer one I guess as an additional bonus upgrade!


About time we saw a photo Jake. Looks great mate!! Got me bloody thinking again now!!

I posted that in EuroSA, I was actually waiting for a chance to do it at dusk for R Club so I could get a proper shot because I hate that photo, they look striking in real life, and that photo looks a bit lame. But meh :P

kamold
22-05-2015, 04:49 PM
It's the ecm/ccm rev that means you lose those menus, not the cluster. Mine is white also.

Jakeys
22-05-2015, 05:03 PM
It's the ecm/ccm rev that means you lose those menus, not the cluster. Mine is white also.

I edited but you beat me to it apparently haha. Cheers for the info. I didn't realise white MFD was an 09 thing, I thought it was MY10! Depends on cost actually, I may still copy you! :D

Passat R36
22-05-2015, 05:42 PM
Yep but dead simple, just run them to your license plate lights as parkers are never on without those and if you ever do the side of the road lighting thing only your outer ring illuminates this way which I think looks better. Running to your original parkers is unnecessary pain for no gain. Very easy to detach the tailgate plastic (A few easily found screws and then just pull it off from the edges to unclip) and then a couple bolts and you have very easy access to your license plate light wiring. Solder two wires per light (I connected left inner to left license plate light and right to right so if one stops working I know which wiring to fix) and you are laughing. An hour's worth of work if you've never done it before.

Definitely recommend, especially if you've gone to the lengths of the factory fit DRL's (Hoping to get those done this weekend maybe if schedule permits!) and all the rest as I feel it completes the car. But this is Kamold's thread, I don't want to derail too much from his outstanding car!

Oh, the licence plate light, too easy, as long as the wire does not need to go through the tailgate hinge thing. Great info, thanks.

Regarding the DRL installation, one quick tip is you can extend the wire between left and right using the existing wire. This way you can easily run the wiring loom over the radiator.

snerlo
24-05-2015, 10:07 AM
Yeah, if the inner rings get done on mine, it is good to know that you don't need to go through that bloody hinge episode again. That just about did my head in when I did my reversing camera!! I assume it is just a simple case of using those little wire splicers and clip them on. Passat R36, with regards to the DRL's it isn't hard to take the grill off and run the wire along the front bumper chassis. That way you can zip tie it to the chassis as well. Out of all the things I've done to mine, this was one of the easiest with regards to the install process.
Hmm, might have to do the inner rings!! :P Damn you Jakey and your cool mod!!

kamold
05-06-2015, 05:11 PM
So this arrived today

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/06/932cf5c8797bb443e2cc572e9d109f30-1.jpg

Fingers crossed for compatibility!

Passat R36
05-06-2015, 05:43 PM
What car is this for?

kamold
05-06-2015, 05:51 PM
Hint: it's the title of the thread ;)

Passat R36
05-06-2015, 08:39 PM
Well, never saw a R36 comes with colour MFD.

kamold
05-06-2015, 09:32 PM
They don't, its an upgrade :)

try000
06-06-2015, 08:33 AM
....watching

snerlo
06-06-2015, 09:34 AM
Good luck with the install mate. Hope it works out for you.

kamold
06-06-2015, 11:41 AM
Woot!

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/06/66ebdd69d904f724037c0dcde6a43eb9-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/06/c1839ac7c96764669decae65fd8d346d-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/06/4ed119756de1767e70d8a26f24b2176c-1.jpg

As expected, I've lost comfort and lighting controls via the MFD (now MFA+) however I can still control these via vcds.

Warning! My Rns freaked out and wanted me to input the security code after the cluster install. As mine was factory I had to 'find' the code using setconfig via the debug/multimedia port on the rns. If you don't have this make sure you have your code before installation.

And I have staging! (needle sweep at startup).

Jakeys
06-06-2015, 04:21 PM
Niiice! Looks good, man. Jealous of staging for sure, would rather have that than the comfort/lighting settings as I have VCDS. Did you get any other new/lost functions on the MFA? Maybe I should put this down as a future mod, what did it cost in the end?

kamold
06-06-2015, 04:48 PM
It's a second hand cluster. Talk to The Retrofitters if you need a price. No new functionality, just pretty.

fluckaduck
06-06-2015, 09:01 PM
That looks great. But do you lose your real kms as the data is generally stored in a cluster?

kamold
06-06-2015, 09:23 PM
You need to input the correct kms as is also stored in the ecu.

Passat R36
06-06-2015, 09:30 PM
How to "find" the security code of the RNS? Mind sharing ?

kamold
06-06-2015, 09:44 PM
It's a cable and software package used for low level diagnostics. Like vcds for the RNS. Costs as much.

Passat R36
06-06-2015, 09:59 PM
Thanks, I know where you live now, will you be able to help if I buy a RNS510 from a wrecker? lol

booba
06-06-2015, 10:04 PM
Good work on the cluster, glad that it all worked out :)

kamold
06-06-2015, 10:19 PM
Thanks, I know where you live now, will you be able to help if I buy a RNS510 from a wrecker? lol
Yeah of course. Beer is a universal currency

kamold
06-06-2015, 10:21 PM
Good work on the cluster, glad that it all worked out :)
Me too, thanks for holding onto it all these years so I could buy it from you :)

kamold
10-06-2015, 02:47 PM
R36 full colour cluster startup, with needle sweep!

kvTkphUJWbo

Passat R36
10-06-2015, 04:27 PM
Like+++

Jakeys
10-06-2015, 04:30 PM
Sweep is very cool, as expected. It also looks like it boots into "ready" a lot faster than the white MFD does, which seems to spend more time getting to the finished state.

kamold
10-06-2015, 05:03 PM
Cluster operation

ZobpfDWwqSg

kamold
21-06-2015, 07:29 AM
Enabled 'easy access' on the memory seats:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f153/memory-seats-tweak-easy-access-106563.html#post1137176

Jakeys
21-06-2015, 01:55 PM
Enabled 'easy access' on the memory seats:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f153/memory-seats-tweak-easy-access-106563.html#post1137176

:O jackpot! I'm so doing this too, been wanting this since I got the car. Legend :D

kamold
21-06-2015, 02:44 PM
I'll have a bit more of a look in the adaptation channels, maybe there is some way to control the amount of travel...
No other options there unfortunately. Just enable or disable. Oh well. Still a score.

revivor
21-06-2015, 03:37 PM
My question is how come you got a male voice for the navigation? Was it a latest firmware upgrade?

I've still got a lady as mine. The male voice sounded clearer! IMO.

The colour navigation on the dash is so desirable!

Jakeys
21-06-2015, 04:02 PM
My question is how come you got a male voice for the navigation? Was it a latest firmware upgrade?

I've still got a lady as mine. The male voice sounded clearer! IMO.

The colour navigation on the dash is so desirable!

I'm on latest firmware and mine is still female voice as default. It might be a setting in the menus to change but to be honest I know Siri on the iOS is like that and I could easily be confusing the two, haha.

kamold
21-06-2015, 04:11 PM
My question is how come you got a male voice for the navigation? Was it a latest firmware upgrade?

I've still got a lady as mine. The male voice sounded clearer! IMO.

The colour navigation on the dash is so desirable!

Go to settings -> language. You can choose English (female) or English (male).

Talk to The Retrofitters if you want to get a colour cluster. Its a very easy installation, only need trim tools, T20 hex driver and VCDS.
I can do the install for anyone in Sydney.

Jakeys
22-06-2015, 11:13 AM
Go to settings -> language. You can choose English (female) or English (male).

Talk to The Retrofitters if you want to get a colour cluster. Its a very easy installation, only need trim tools, T20 hex driver and VCDS.
I can do the install for anyone in Sydney.

I e-mailed them, they quoted me $1000. I'm out!

kamold
22-06-2015, 11:50 AM
If I had $1000 now I'd buy this:

[NSW] - FOR SALE SuperSprint Cat Back Exhaust for VW Passat 3C R36 (http://www.vwgolf.net.au/showthread.php?26654-NSW-FOR-SALE-SuperSprint-Cat-Back-Exhaust-for-VW-Passat-3C-R36)

Jakeys
22-06-2015, 12:20 PM
If I had $1000 now I'd buy this:

[NSW] - FOR SALE SuperSprint Cat Back Exhaust for VW Passat 3C R36 (http://www.vwgolf.net.au/showthread.php?26654-NSW-FOR-SALE-SuperSprint-Cat-Back-Exhaust-for-VW-Passat-3C-R36)

That's already sold, he listed it on Facebook, I got tagged about an hour after the first two people in line, and went third in line. :P

kamold
22-06-2015, 12:28 PM
If you'd got it you still would have had to get the headers to make it complete...

Jakeys
22-06-2015, 12:31 PM
If you'd got it you still would have had to get the headers to make it complete...

The headers are LHD. There is no off the shelf header for the RHD R36. Arqray and Supersprint are both catback systems and cost around $3000, Bastuck is also catback and cheaper but is apparently ****, the only other system is the iPE which includes cats and flex pipe from the header back but depending on what tips and if you want straight through cats or not, that's a cool $6500-7500 from The Retrofitters or about $5500-6500 from the other reseller, even if you can get a good deal you're being ripped off $2-3000.

kamold
22-06-2015, 12:40 PM
Yeah I'm not really considering exhaust. I'm happy enough with the restrained sound.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Jakeys
07-07-2015, 06:20 PM
Enabled 'easy access' on the memory seats:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f153/memory-seats-tweak-easy-access-106563.html#post1137176

Just did this on my car as well, cheers for the tip! Sadly like you said it barely moves so it hasn't really helped the problem which is I can't get in without scraping the button on my back pocket on the bolster. Oh well, still a cool setting! Why oh why do they hide these things. I wonder what else is hidden away in there...

maximumxposure
08-07-2015, 08:38 AM
I can't get in without scraping the button on my back pocket on the bolster.

Glad I'm not the only one that has this problem, Have started buying jeans without buttons haha :facepalm:

Jakeys
08-07-2015, 02:59 PM
Glad I'm not the only one that has this problem, Have started buying jeans without buttons haha :facepalm:

Difficulty getting in and out of this car is one of its biggest problems. The side skirt and sill are huuuge, the bolsters are huuuge, and the seating position is very low. I'm 5'9" and not overweight and I really struggle to get in and out of this car without scraping the bolsters or hitting the side skirt with my shoe. Without the steering wheel to hold onto I don't reckon I could do it. My girlfriend is much shorter than me and I had to have the talk with her after I was cleaning the suede and noticed she had been sitting on the bolster for support to get out of the passenger seat and snapped the foam inside. >.<

(Not angry at her though, not a car person, that's not obvious. **** happens and she avoids it now.)

kamold
08-07-2015, 03:05 PM
Ah the sacrifices we have to make to drive an R36....so worth it :)

snerlo
08-07-2015, 05:15 PM
I hear ya with the getting in and out. You know what though, I would have preferred the seats in leather like our Jetta. I find it a little easier to sit in as my clothes can slide around a little to get comfortable. I find that I have to bob up and down to make sure that my short or pants are in a comfy position due to the alcantra being a grabby material. I am living with it, but if I had the choice, full leather for me. I also catch the odd button on the bolster and the bolster is looking a little worse for wear because of it too. It just cops all the hits doesn't it. Like Kamold says, so worth it though!!

Jakeys
08-07-2015, 05:53 PM
Oh total opposite, I love the alcantara suede! It was a draw for me to get this car based on how good the interior is. As much as I complain, I wouldn't change anything about these seats. Except I'd replace them with these, but I just don't have the money for this kind of mod.

https://scontent-hkg3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/11695814_10153819078252923_4429736433867691304_n.j pg?oh=4e0f3a541898733b6933bbb81898b81e&oe=5617D2FD

Would have to fix that inaccurate R logo though! ;)

snerlo
09-07-2015, 10:38 AM
they're nice aren't they mate. Yeah, I'm with you. I would have to fix the logo too as it would bug me knowing that it isn't technically correct

seanmau5
09-07-2015, 01:19 PM
Those crushed side bolster feels :(

The CC is just as hard to get in/out of (I have full leather seats making it a little easier to shuffle around, also have to use the steering wheel as leverage). My mother and father comment about how low you sit in the car and that it's hard to get out and will more often than not sacrifice the front seat to sit in the back as it's just easier for them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

kamold
13-08-2015, 07:07 PM
Today I installed my inner LED tail rings.
Got these ones from Russia
VW Passat B6 3C2 3C5 Extra Park AND Turn Tail Lights LED Rings Skyline Style | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VW-Passat-B6-3C2-3C5-Extra-Park-and-Turn-Tail-Lights-LED-rings-Skyline-style-/181804002647?hash=item2a545ced57)

They sat for a month at the post office until I got the final notice, I never got the first one...

Disassembly of the existing inners is fairly straight forward, I used a heat gun (hair dryer) to heat the adhesive, then pried apart carefully with a screwdriver and trim removal tools.

Used a drill press and 4mm followed by 5mm bits to drill out the holes in the silver assemblies. I wouldn't advise just using a hand drill as you could easily damage the plastic facetted reflector parts.

Put the housings back together and resealed with a 2 part epoxy.

Then I pulled the boot trim off and wired the red rings up to the license plate lights.
I used these 3-way connectors CRIMP WIRE CONNECTOR 3WIRE PK50 | Other Cable Accessories | Cable Accessories | Wire, Cable & Accessories | PRODUCTS | HP1272 | Jaycar Electronics (http://www.jaycar.com.au/Wire,-Cable-%26-Accessories/Cable-Accessories/Other-Cable-Accessories/CRIMP-WIRE-CONNECTOR-3WIRE-PK50/p/HP1272) to connect to the existing wires.

I'll run the wires for the turn signals at another time, as they have to go through the boot grommets, behind the trims to the outer tails.

Scratched my head for bit when they weren't working, only to realise that the polarity was wrong (my LED license plate lights are not polarity sensitive for some reason).

Now I have my 4 burner hotplates :)

If you aren't all that comfortable pulling this sort of stuff apart and potentially breaking stuff, I'd recommend getting in touch with VW Central who can hook you up with a set of already modified tail lights.

This is the assemblies pulled apart:
18265

And here is the result:
18266

Jakeys
13-08-2015, 08:10 PM
Great work. VW Central have just jumped onboard Buckets to advertise his work a bit better, he is still the one doing theirs.

kamold
13-08-2015, 08:45 PM
Yeah that's right buckets does the mods.

Sent from my HTC One M8 using Tapatalk

snerlo
13-08-2015, 09:42 PM
Good work mate. How's the colour match and the brightness match?

Passat R36
13-08-2015, 11:11 PM
looking good!

kamold
23-10-2015, 07:50 PM
Climatronics upgrade.

Out with the old

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/10/f7b2e2d0d4a01fda15d863ac6c9c3333-2.jpg

New unit part

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/10/8bab916a801a0ebd45aa3a56c6b66791-2.jpg

It's plug and play (connectors are upside down compared with original unit) apart from coding, then flap calibration and compressor run in.


http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/10/135010bc650ba1864b1d9f9b14842a57-2.jpg


http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/10/6f77e2374170b35535f620642679e469-2.jpg


Just waiting on the facia to arrive.

So the new unit is in 1 degree increments rather than .5 with the old unit, but that one had dated looking digital temp displays, and no on screen display on the RNS so no loss there.

Jakeys
24-10-2015, 01:34 PM
Nice. How was the install, and how do you find the new system's functionality versus your old one? I know of course it looks much better, but curious how they are using day to day. I have a weird interest in this, I used to have a GTV Verada with the Jap LCD climate system and I found it one of the best systems ever to use. The climatronics is nice but the Verada wins on that one, haha.

Also, did the old system have the two stage auto? One thing I do like about this car is it has two auto modes, a low power and a high power one. You could just adjust the fan manually but, I dunno, it's cool.

kamold
24-10-2015, 05:58 PM
Install was easy.
Pop off the trim, 4 screws hold it in.
3 plugs to remove then put new one in.
Run flap motor adjustment (hold down front vent and AC buttons 5 seconds) and then compressor init (hold down rear demist and AC 3 seconds).
Adjust coding (main thing is turn off humidity sensor)

Dual stage auto works as does every other function.

Only issue I have is the AC is starting when car is started even if it was off (remembers all other settings in use).
I'll look into and fix that.

Sent from my HTC One M8 using Tapatalk

kamold
01-11-2015, 08:11 AM
Update:
I had to cut, swap and then rejoin pins 16 and 20 from the connector block A for the climatronics panel and it now remembers its settings

kamold
04-11-2015, 02:49 PM
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/11/b8735f9d83253a473b82fa9a6a7da5b1-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/11/78f3dacaf8a627e3946c917f21922e38-1.jpg

Trim piece arrived.
Back to factory look but now with added MY10 functionality that I missed from my Octy.

kamold
05-11-2015, 12:35 PM
Shout out to Dean from VW Central who figured out what I needed to do with the pin swap to get the panel remembering its settings.

kamold
21-01-2016, 11:38 AM
And now the journey to Dynaudio goodness begins...

I've secured an amp from the US, and have been scratching my head and trying to figure out how to make the square peg go into the round hole with respect to the twin plugs on the 600w amp
21149
vs the single large connector in the car harness for the existing 250w amp
21150

What I've decided to try is to remove the connector from the existing amp (which is next to useless to me now) by desoldering it from the board
21151

(not much to this amp is there??)

I'll then solder and heat shrink the stripped wire ends from the twin plugs onto this salvaged connector, allowing me to plug it directly into the car's harness. I'll then just need to pull an additional 12v feed from the fuse box to feed the additional 12v pins on the Dynaudio amp (which has 3 x12v power and ground rather than the single feeds required for the 250w amp).

This will also have the benefit of being able to be removed again should I have the desire, and the original amp rebuilt and returned to the car.

Will be attempting this in the next week or so hopefully once I've got the necessary tools and components, plus time (much harder to procure) in hand.

incidentally the connector part is a Tyco 1534531-1 (http://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1534531-1.html)which could be obtained seperately from a components supplier I'd imagine in order to make up the adapter...

Jakeys
23-01-2016, 09:16 PM
Jeez that's very in depth. More than I would have ever tried.

If it works, this could be hugely useful info. Wayyy down the track on my mod list is a Dynaudio retrofit but I was going to use the off the shelf Dynaudio speaker kits (Don't remember the model names now but it was the set very close to stock, just a bit better) and then to get it working with the car, RNS etc I was just going to try and retrofit the OEM Dynaudio amp second hand like you have.

Plus, the OEM Dynaudio grilles are on Aliexpress.

benny82
07-03-2016, 10:14 PM
Hi kamold have you ever thought about installing the b7 analog clock where the hazard switch goes?

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

kamold
08-03-2016, 12:13 AM
Hi kamold have you ever thought about installing the b7 analog clock where the hazard switch goes?

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Nope, never liked the look of it.

BUT.....tonight I FINALLY got the Dynaudio amp installed and running!
Its currently powering the stock speakers, but it still sounds pretty good compared to the stock amp.
Its way past my bedtime, so I haven't taken any photos or anything, suffice to say I am releived after a lot of false starts trying to figure out how to get the cabling done in the space left after the amp is in.

Basically I've pulled out the amp connector from the original amp, cut off the 90 degree bends in the pins from the board, then connected all the pins from the 2 Dynaudio connectors to the original amp connector, which then plugs straight into the car harness. Plus additional ground and 12v from the fuse box.

VICTORY!!!
Now bed.

kamold
09-03-2016, 08:14 AM
Have been cranking the tunes through the stock speakers (as Nermal pointed out in his retrofit, you eventually get some complaining BLARP!!s from the stock woofers).

The improvement in sound to me over the stock amp is substantial. I'm happy I stuck with it and got the amp in.

As also pointed out by Nermal, the 600w amp's separation of the channels results in very tight, punchy bass and very bright treble (overly bright to me with the stock front tweeters, hopefully this will mellow a little with the Dynaudio tweeters.) The staging and clarity is excellent.

Need to finalise the harness now that its working (solder on the terminal connectors to the old amp connector, then shrink the heatshrink insulation which is just sitting loose, and put some tape around the whole Frankenharness).

So its possible. I have a spare 600w amp (not speakers) if anyone else wants to do the upgrade.

Jakeys
09-03-2016, 11:37 AM
Fantastic work mate! Love the in depth stuff being done to these cars like this.

Is there any chance you could do a technical write up of this so a layman like me could attempt this at all? Dynaudio is on my mod list for the future, but the amp is a sticking point. I am happy to buy an equivalent off the shelf Dynaudio kit which will suit the factory mounts (FHRX Studios covered this for me back in the day) but I still don't have any idea what to do about the amplifier. I have only ever had cars where you just turf the head unit and bang in your own third party amp, but I would want to OEM it with the correct amplifier mounted and the RNS software mod done for the branding. (If you didn't know about that, you can do it by the way.)

Alternatively if you reckon your spare amp would work in my MY10.5 we could talk me buying that from you if it's affordable? If it's just a case of connections to determine suitability I can get some photos of what mine looks like, or the part number. I'll chuck you a PM or FB you if you want.

EDIT: I basically already said all that two months ago apparently, like three posts up haha. Whoops. At least I'm consistent.

kamold
09-03-2016, 12:15 PM
I will get some photos up when I get the harness back out to finalise it. Bear with me.
Also my notes with the pinout connections etc.
Will try and do it over the weekend but have been pretty busy.
Will also post some links to the terminals I used.
My harness has ended up being a bit of a hack job given the iterations it went through while I figured out how to build it, so if it were done from scratch would be a bit neater and have fewer solder joints in it.

The spare amp has the two original connectors (grey and green), so (if following my design) would just need the connector removed from your factory amp, a couple of meters of various gauge wire, terminals etc.

Passat R36
09-03-2016, 01:49 PM
Impressive!

Jakeys
09-03-2016, 03:01 PM
I will get some photos up when I get the harness back out to finalise it. Bear with me.
Also my notes with the pinout connections etc.
Will try and do it over the weekend but have been pretty busy.
Will also post some links to the terminals I used.
My harness has ended up being a bit of a hack job given the iterations it went through while I figured out how to build it, so if it were done from scratch would be a bit neater and have fewer solder joints in it.

The spare amp has the two original connectors (grey and green), so (if following my design) would just need the connector removed from your factory amp, a couple of meters of various gauge wire, terminals etc.

Yep as per PM's keep me posted as I am very interested in doing this as we discussed. The more detail the merrier. Amazing work mate, I am guessing you are the first/only person to do this? At least for R36's? :D

kamold
09-03-2016, 03:12 PM
I've not seen online anyone having done this exact upgrade.
Nermal of course did a superb writeup on his retrofit, but luckily had the older connectors making the amp install plug n play.
There is also a very good Danish (I think) guide but that was a complete install into a Passat without amp, so required full harness installation from head unit to speakers etc.
Jimmi CBX in Malaysia has possibly done one as he has done some pretty crazy retrofits like ACC, DCC etc

prn31
10-03-2016, 01:05 PM
I will get some photos up when I get the harness back out to finalise it. Bear with me.
Also my notes with the pinout connections etc.
Will try and do it over the weekend but have been pretty busy.
Will also post some links to the terminals I used.
My harness has ended up being a bit of a hack job given the iterations it went through while I figured out how to build it, so if it were done from scratch would be a bit neater and have fewer solder joints in it.

The spare amp has the two original connectors (grey and green), so (if following my design) would just need the connector removed from your factory amp, a couple of meters of various gauge wire, terminals etc.

Mmm, I’m interested in the Dynaudio amp too! How easy is it to source the speakers? I believe doing the speaker grilles with the Dynaudio chrome trim is a pretty fiddly job.

Kamold is local to me and a top bloke - he has updated my RNS510 firmware and maps. Only problem is I would need to keep him supplied in boutique liquid amber for a couple of years to make this work for me….. :grin:

kamold
10-03-2016, 01:13 PM
You can pick up the amps and speakers from ebay, they are listed semi-regularly on ebay.de.

eg

VW Passat CC Soundsystem HIGH-END Dynaudio Verstärker amplifier Lautsprecher | eBay (http://www.ebay.de/itm/VW-Passat-CC-Soundsystem-HIGH-END-Dynaudio-Verstarker-amplifier-Lautsprecher-/262293053337?hash=item3d11e25f99:g:OHkAAOSw3KFWcC-l)

You normally need to contact the sellers to arrange shipping as most will only ship to Europe.
I ended up getting mine from the US.

I've been known to work for the folding stuff too, doesn't have to be consumable :)

prn31
10-03-2016, 05:07 PM
You can pick up the amps and speakers from ebay, they are listed semi-regularly on ebay.de.

eg

VW Passat CC Soundsystem HIGH-END Dynaudio Verstärker amplifier Lautsprecher | eBay (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-53470-19255-0/1?campid=5337592361&toolid=10001&mpre=http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-53470-19255-0/1?campid=5337592361&toolid=10001&mpre=http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-53470-19255-0/1?campid=5337592361&toolid=10001&mpre=http://www.ebay.de/itm/VW-Passat-CC-Soundsystem-HIGH-END-Dynaudio-Verstarker-amplifier-Lautsprecher-/262293053337?hash=item3d11e25f99:g:OHkAAOSw3KFWcC-l)

You normally need to contact the sellers to arrange shipping as most will only ship to Europe.
I ended up getting mine from the US.

I've been known to work for the folding stuff too, doesn't have to be consumable :)

My German isn't that crash hot. I note the CC Amplifier is 3C8 035 456 C but Nermal used 3C0 035 346 J in his Dynaudio retrofit and said that something about some amplifier models are not compatible, including from the CC? I note that in the Ebay listing it was a Lear amplifier, which I understand is correct. Price seems reasonable as I understand Amps can go for $800.

Seems like a pretty major project once you factor in the Dynaudio speaker covers (a must have) and all the work required to do the retrofit.

I'll remember that last comment, ha... :-)

kamold
10-03-2016, 05:50 PM
The first three digits of the part designate which model its for 3C8=CC and 3C0=Passat.
The actual hardware is the same, save for the revision which will be minor hardware difference internally, if at all, and perhaps updated software.
But it should be compatible.
As with any kind of retrofit there are always compatibility risks, and there may well be some specific reason why that CC amp wouldn't work...

kamold
10-03-2016, 05:57 PM
Here is the frankenharness. Just need to shrink the heat shrink

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/03/46a654b43321708e414f9685fb3f5f6e-1.jpg

Here is the original amp connector I desoldered from the board and cut off the 90 degree bends from the pins.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/03/249d322b16a861c9587592191dcd79f4-1.jpg

And here is the ground and 12v I pulled from the fusebox on the drivers side. I used a 15amp piggyback connector in a spare slot.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/03/794d4f1493967bc979fe28d619d4e3cc-1.jpg

Jakeys
10-03-2016, 06:46 PM
Here is the frankenharness. Just need to shrink the heat shrink
And here is the ground and 12v I pulled from the fusebox on the drivers side. I used a 15amp piggyback connector in a spare slot.

Nice work! :D

Out of interest, where did you get the 2x plugs for the Dynaudio, seeing as you don't have the proper Dynaudio harness? Were they able to be ordered in, I take it, since you also have them for the Dynaudio amp I'm buying. Nice little bonus anyways. Having seen that I definitely reckon I will source the stock connector on a spare amp some time. It doesn't look OEM pretty but it's pretty simple and will definitely do the job and last you, very well done.

And the pic for the fuse box doesn't appear to be in the post? :D

kamold
10-03-2016, 06:51 PM
Yeah I noticed in the ad pic for the amp that it had the two connectors still plugged in, with the cables just cut.
Asked the seller to make sure they were included.
So I used both the connectors, and the wire ends which were in there as I don't have the terminals to put into them. I have some on order but too late :)

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Jakeys
10-03-2016, 08:04 PM
Yeah I noticed in the ad pic for the amp that it had the two connectors still plugged in, with the cables just cut.
Asked the seller to make sure they were included.
So I used both the connectors, and the wire ends which were in there as I don't have the terminals to put into them. I have some on order but too late :)

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Oh, right! At least you were able to order the pair for the spare amp anyway. Unlike the stock connector, bit of a shame on that one!

Are you planning on now getting the OEM Dynaudio speakers too or would you go for the off the shelf Esotec System 342 instead? Seems they would be plenty suitable. That was my plan. Plus I'm going to try my hand at the grilles, I realise it's not easy but I reckon it's a must have to do the door grilles.

kamold
10-03-2016, 08:11 PM
That's why I have a spare one. I found just an amp, and wanted to confirm that I could get it working before committing to the full kit. I also have a full set of speakers and amp which I'm now using to do the complete install.

kamold
24-03-2016, 01:09 PM
Following nermal's excellent guide, I swapped over the front speakers this afternoon.
Took about 1 hour 40 mins to do both.
As nermal said, its not as big a jump as from stock to Dynaudio amp, but its still definitely noticeable and worthwhile in my opinion.
Can now push the speakers past 65% volume. No BLERP!!s or distortion.
Just sweet, sweet Dynaudio sound.
Will try and get the rears done over Easter to finish off the upgrade.

Jakeys
24-03-2016, 01:28 PM
Well done! Your work on this has been top notch. :D

Looking forward to doing the same. I am still undecided on if I will buy the speakers currently on eBay or wait, despite it being a good deal. I think with buying the amp and recently buying a second set of Omanyt's I've probably already spent too much money on the car this month.

kamold
24-03-2016, 01:54 PM
Didn't even break any clips!

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Jakeys
24-03-2016, 02:02 PM
Didn't even break any clips!

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

From what I hear that's god level for DIY! Everyone always says the christmas clips explode. Did you use a trim removal tool set from somewhere?

kamold
24-03-2016, 02:10 PM
Yeah the forked ones work a treat you push them either side of the clip and they pop out

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kamold
25-03-2016, 02:54 PM
Started on the rear installation today.
As expected, had to bridge the connections on the bass speakers to match the stock speakers which have a crossover to power the tweeters.

Unfortunately one of the bass cones that I received doesn't work :(
So I still have one stock side in the rear. Took me a while to figure it out because I assumed that I was having trouble with getting the pins to match my setup...

kamold
28-03-2016, 10:19 AM
22152

The speaker housings on the second hand Dynaudio speakers I got were kind of butchered when they were removed from the previous car.
On the left is the stock speaker and housing. You can see the horrible butchered holes on the right-hand speaker.

The drill bit was obviously allowed to get hot and melted the plastic whilst removing the rivets.

Luckily the housings are removable, which has the added advantage of being able to use the 4-pin connector and crossover from the stock speakers.

I'll have to live with one rear stock speaker for now as a single rear woofer will be hard to come by. The one which is faulty has a big crack across the rear housing which explains why it doesn't work. Must have taken a really good hit because these things would be hard to kill..

Jakeys
28-03-2016, 10:29 AM
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/attachments/f27/22152-kamolds-r36-imag0530[2]-jpg

The speaker housings on the second hand Dynaudio speakers I got were kind of butchered when they were removed from the previous car.
On the left is the stock speaker and housing. You can see the horrible butchered holes on the right-hand speaker.

The drill bit was obviously allowed to get hot and melted the plastic whilst removing the rivets.

Luckily the housings are removable, which has the added advantage of being able to use the 4-pin connector and crossover from the stock speakers.

I'll have to live with one rear stock speaker for now as a single rear woofer will be hard to come by. The one which is faulty has a big crack across the rear housing which explains why it doesn't work. Must have taken a really good hit because these things would be hard to kill..

Probably wouldn't be cheap but you could order the part new from VW? Probably cheaper than buying a whole set again just for the one, could be cost effective to just order the part?

Good to know about the housing but sucks yours is broken. Not having seen the damage, no chance someone could repair it for you? Certain types of speaker damage can sometimes be fixed.

kamold
28-03-2016, 10:33 AM
Yeah I dunno about repair, it could be possible.
I've dismantled it as far as I can without unglueing the cone from the housing and there isn't anything that I can see in terms of a loose connection or anything.

Will just leave it alone for now. I think with just one stock woofer in the back I'll still be happy.
I'll keep an eye out and a lone speaker may pop up on fleabay one day.

benny82
30-03-2016, 04:15 PM
Hey kamold how did you turn off humidity sensor in vcds for the climatronic? And why does it need turning off anyway?

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kamold
31-03-2016, 05:34 AM
Hey kamold how did you turn off humidity sensor in vcds for the climatronic? And why does it need turning off anyway?


To be honest I'm not 100% sure the humidity sensor not installed setting needs to be set....was just what I read in other upgrade threads. I could try and enable and see if I get an error. Byte 4 in climatronic set to 2 from memory...

kamold
31-03-2016, 06:07 AM
Realised I wasn't looking very closely at the Blaupunkt speakers...the cones aren't removable from the mount like the Dynaudio ones so I can't swap them over.

Need to work on the crossovers in the rear as the tweeters aren't performing as well as they should, frequency cutoff is too low I think. Never done crossover design before so need to do some research. I don't sit in the back so doesn't make much difference to me..but needs to be done.

kamold
04-09-2016, 10:45 AM
Steering wheel upgrade done this morning.

I had the older 3C0953549AC controller so needed to upgrade that also. Newer R36s with the 5K0953569T module only need to change coding to swap the protocal from LIN 1.3 to LIN 2.0. Note that this not documented in the VCDS long coding helper. You need to tick LIN 2.0 but ALSO at the same time, you need to turn off LIN 1.3 at Byte 0, Bit 7. Then apply the coding.

It a nice upgrade and I think it lifts the cabin a fair bit and better matches the colour cluster and newer climatronics.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/4d9bf230af753d483e1df963011f05df-2.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/aca5899f51e848a87894a6778246d958-2.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/887c5aceab2d1af012eb0634a520ebf4-2.jpg

Passat R36
04-09-2016, 03:37 PM
Very nice!
How much did the steering wheel and airbag cost you if you don't mind?
I've been thinking of this upgrade and Alcantara wrapping the R36 steering wheel.

kamold
04-09-2016, 03:56 PM
I got the airbag and wheel for about $700 landed from Lithuania.
Plus $220 for the steering wheel controller.

Note that it doesn't have shift paddles, hence it's cheaper. Its in perfect condition cosmetically.
For completeness I should have gotten one with paddles but I rarely use them and can still use the shift lever in tiptronic mode, plus it was cheaper ;)

Jakeys
05-09-2016, 12:50 AM
Nice, got a great price for it. I couldn't do this, I love my shift paddles, use them constantly, and that wrong R logo really trips my OCD! Still, the shape of it is very modern indeed, it does refresh the look a bit.

kamold
05-09-2016, 06:28 AM
If I come across another one with paddles down the track I'll probably swap it over and sell this one. But happy with it for now.

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kamold
17-11-2016, 10:47 AM
So I am trying a slightly more involved upgrade.

I have replaced the 3C0 CCM module behind the glovebox with a newer 3AA (B7) module in order to support some other mods. It has also brought the convenience menu back in my upgraded colour MFD...

26662

Replacing the CCM involves dismantling the module and reading the EEPROM which contains the encrypted immobilizer code. I read this to a file using my trusty $50 minipro programmer (after much tooing and froing trying to get the pins to line up with the connector) and then wrote the file to the new CCM's EEPROM.

26660

26661

Installed the new CCM and the car started! I was concerned I would end up with a car that was permanently locked...
But this is not the end of the journey...turns out the ABS/ESP module is not compatible with the new CCM, so it gets grumpy and throws a fault which in turns causes the immobilizer to not want to lock the car. And my TPMS module is not contactable.

So I upgraded the software on my ABS controller to version 17 (was 11) which wipes out the coding, and the G85/G200/G201 sensor calibrations.
Reset the calibrations, but the coding is still not correct as the original coding is no longer accepted :facepalm:

So have some work to do in order to get the car into a healthy state again...

xR360
17-11-2016, 10:51 AM
Smart and brave move kamold, look forward to seeing the resolve. However, this is well beyond me so I won't be giving it a go anytime soon


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Throbbinhood
17-11-2016, 11:35 AM
Will do a full write up later, as I am going to be doing this in fits and starts.
Have the bumper off and leds installed.
Next step is to run wires through the firewall to the fuse box, mount the control box and secure the cabling.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/12/c6b6328076d0c3d72ecac92c0ed978df-1.jpg

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/12/d190d56532c3da99f85f3673bbc1d2cc-1.jpg

Bit of a gravedig, but where did you get these? I can't find them anywhere online, only the ones that go in the fog light housings. Mine doesn't have foglights and I'm not fussed on having them, would rather just replace the blinkers.

kamold
17-11-2016, 11:47 AM
Here you go:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/eOsuns-for-VW-Passat-B6-R36-led-drl-daytime-running-light-with-auto-dim-OFF-control/32747630524.html

kamold
17-11-2016, 11:51 AM
Smart and brave move kamold, look forward to seeing the resolve. However, this is well beyond me so I won't be giving it a go anytime soon


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Replace smart with foolhardy perhaps ;)

kamold
18-11-2016, 12:19 PM
After some trial and error (try one coding string, check faults, add 1, try new code etc) with some advice from a friendly fellow enthusiast in Estonia, I was able to find a valid coding string which allowed me to clear the faults from all the modules and restored ABS/ESP/EPB functionality.

Next step is to relearn the keys and I will eventually have to do a wiring mod to the steering column lock module to clear a fault from the immobilizer. But this is a bit of a pain as its right down the bottom of the steering column so I'll have to leave that for a later date when I have some more time.

Mysticality
18-11-2016, 12:34 PM
with some advice from a friendly fellow enthusiast in Estonia

Those Estonians are a nice bunch. ;)

You're a lot braver than I am - and I've resoldered my dash from white to blue!
Very keen to follow this thread. Nice work.

kamold
20-11-2016, 07:04 PM
Looking like I might have to back out of this upgrade just for time being as I don't have the time to press on (looks likely that I will need to get a B7 ABS module as well as fix the ESCL wiring).
Put back the old CCM and car is happy again, key fobs work etc.
When I have some more time next week I'll try again with the new CCM.

In the mean time I'm going to play with DAB as I installed a new SSD RNS with DAB.
Not much different to what I already have I know but the upgrade to the LED screen and faster boot/route times is nice too.

Jakeys
22-11-2016, 10:08 AM
Jeez mate slightly more involved is a bit of an understatement, haha. Pushing the boundaries with this one, unfortunate that it is probably not going to work out. Major props for attempting it anyway.

kamold
22-11-2016, 11:13 AM
It's a stepping stone to acc which is my ideal end game.
I need to try with the new ccm and relearn the keyfoba again, that might get it working.
Lose tpms as I'd need to fit the newer controller that shows pressure per wheel in the mfd, our generation has the tpms module in the ccm itself.


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kamold
23-11-2016, 12:39 PM
Had some 'fun' yesterday...

I was messing about with VCP (never advisable) looking at the CCM and managed to wipe the data on my factory CCM EEPROM (which contains the encrypted immobilizer data).
So the car wouldn't start.
Had 5 mins to get down to pick up my son from school. So got to run down there in the heat.

Took the CCM back out and reflashed it from the EEPROM dump I had already taken last week (tip for young players, always have MULTIPLE backups of critical systems!) and apart from having to run the G85 steering angle sensor calibration again, car is happy again..for now ;)

kamold
24-11-2016, 04:02 PM
Reinstalled the new 3AA CCM today and messed around with coding until I fixed it all up (First 6 bytes of the coding are not well documented so I had to use trial and error to get it all working. I have a feeling its RHD specific).

Car is now locking and unlocking all doors and flaps properly! And I have convenience menu in MFD.
I've lost TMPS but that just means I have to retrofit the B7 TPMS which will give me individual wheel tyre pressure display in the MFD.

kamold
02-12-2016, 08:12 AM
TPMS high kit arrived today.
Its a relatively straight forward installation:
Remove rear bumper to mount controller
Connect power
Run CAN cables to front and connect to pins 7 and 17 in a 7N0 gateway.
Add TPMS to CANbus gateway installation list
Install new sensors in tyres
Adapt new sensors

But...
Before i can install the 7N0 gateway I need to change the wiring from the Electronic Steering Column Lock which changed in the B7 (to match my B7 CCM - pins 8 and 10 need to be bridged) otherwise the car will complain every time you turn it off of a steering column problem.

So have a bit of work to get it all going but a good learning experience.

kamold
03-12-2016, 12:09 AM
Tonight I replaced the collapsed seat foam in my driver's seat. Was a bigger job than I thought but I had a friend help me.

Tips - move the seat back all the way forward and seat angled all the way up to ease access to the cover for removal and insertion.
- remove baby seats from behind to aid in giving room to remove the seat
- the seat is easier still to maneuver if you remove the steering wheel (which I decided to do as I wanted to fix my ESCL wiring anyway)

The seat now feels brand new. I have to now be careful to exit and enter as much as possible without too much weight on the bolster to get this one to last as long as possible.

Then I corrected the ESCL wiring for the B7 3AA CCM and put my 7N0 gateway in.
No steering error on shutdown now!

TMPS install next week hopefully...

kamold
03-12-2016, 07:03 AM
The old cushion
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/33ebd9867cff9b75d180f7f1f6026ff6-1.jpg

3C4M Guy
03-12-2016, 10:55 PM
Thanks for sharing a photo. Very interesting to see the internal damage to the seat.
Yes ... entry and exit by lifting over the side bolster seems to be the key to longevity.

kamold
04-12-2016, 07:31 AM
Front seat out and steering wheel off (optional)

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/28040f27751f43baf72fa09e5ee8d81a-1.jpg

New seat cushion

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/12b436859f170a6ba3a64a2085ee4211-1.jpg

Finished and back in. Brand new!

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/6ac3cd87e1c2e5c5bae83e734fbd34a1-1.jpg

3C4M Guy
04-12-2016, 11:43 AM
I have 2 manuals. One says the steering wheel bolt must be replaced each time. The other manual says the bolt may be undone and tightened 5 times before it must then be discarded. So I marked the bolt head with 2 indentations to indicate 2 uses.

kamold
04-12-2016, 12:16 PM
Yeah supposed to be 5 times Max then get a new one.

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kamold
04-12-2016, 05:10 PM
Now that I have a 7N0 gateway I thought I'd try this modification to enable fatigue detection:

7N0 Gateway Müdikeitserkennung – dunt.at (http://www.dunt.at/7n0-gateway-muedikeitserkennung/)

Use google translate.

I now have the option in my assistance menu (the only option there... ;) )

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/9ffd4d12c45f23f56ac1bfc517ae1b1f-1.jpg

Haven't tested it yet (although I am tired I don't think my drive home will be enough to trigger it) but at worst its something I can turn off...

Jakeys
05-12-2016, 09:24 AM
Very impressed with all this crazy work you're doing! How much is the seat base part number?

On the driver fatigue, how does it actually work? Back when I had a Verada, I replaced the whole cluster with one from a newer model. The new cluster had a fatigue timer in it where after a user set interval (Defaulted to an hour or something every time you started the car), it would flash a coffee warning light haha. Totally useless, but fun little touch.

kamold
05-12-2016, 09:56 AM
Yeah I'm kind of getting a bit nutty, these retrofits are addictive!

Seat base:
https://www.bks-tuning.com/sitzpolst-647587.html

Its not dirt cheap but not ridiculous. I think with shipping was about $200.
A motor trimmer told me about $150 to repair it, but I figured best bet would be original foam.

Fatigue detection works by monitoring speed, steering angle sensor and time.
If it detects that you might be drifting off it will ding and offer you a cup of coffee (well a picture of one in the MFD).

I'll have to try and get it to engage next week when I'm on the freeway.

Getting my research done for ACC, won't do it until next year so am collection all the info I need on parts, config etc.

TPMS next week if my bracket arrives at the parts department from Singapore.
Will at least get the wheel sensors installed as I need a wheel alignment done anyway.

Passat R36
05-12-2016, 01:19 PM
impressive work!

What kind of trim tools do you need to do the foam swap job? Thanks!

Jakeys
05-12-2016, 01:43 PM
Yeah I'm kind of getting a bit nutty, these retrofits are addictive!

Seat base:
https://www.bks-tuning.com/sitzpolst-647587.html

Its not dirt cheap but not ridiculous. I think with shipping was about $200.
A motor trimmer told me about $150 to repair it, but I figured best bet would be original foam.

Fatigue detection works by monitoring speed, steering angle sensor and time.
If it detects that you might be drifting off it will ding and offer you a cup of coffee (well a picture of one in the MFD).

I'll have to try and get it to engage next week when I'm on the freeway.

Getting my research done for ACC, won't do it until next year so am collection all the info I need on parts, config etc.

TPMS next week if my bracket arrives at the parts department from Singapore.
Will at least get the wheel sensors installed as I need a wheel alignment done anyway.

Nice. Price for seat base not terrible. Didn't order via a local dealer? Might have saved you a little on the shipping, or not haha. Never know with VW. I'll never forget the over $2000 each they quoted me for the upgraded Omanyt wheels!

Fatigue detection actually sounds useful unlike the old 'rada. I won't be doing any of these but I love hearing about you doing them, haha!

kamold
05-12-2016, 01:51 PM
impressive work!

What kind of trim tools do you need to do the foam swap job? Thanks!

Tools needed from memory:
10mm triple square (multispline) bit to remove bolts from rails
Small pointed tool of any description to push out the pins holding the round plastic pins holding the bottom side plastic covers
T20 torx for various screws holding the rest of the plastic covers on to the base
Side cutters or tinsnips to cut the hog rings holding the seat cover to the base
Fingers to unclip plastic holding the rest of the seat cover clips, and to push and prod new foam into place and cover back over the base

kamold
05-12-2016, 01:51 PM
Nice. Price for seat base not terrible. Didn't order via a local dealer? Might have saved you a little on the shipping, or not haha. Never know with VW. I'll never forget the over $2000 each they quoted me for the upgraded Omanyt wheels!

Fatigue detection actually sounds useful unlike the old 'rada. I won't be doing any of these but I love hearing about you doing them, haha!

Shipping was only $25, would probably have cost more to come from Melbourne...

kamold
08-12-2016, 04:23 PM
Needed a wheel alignment so took the opportunity to have my new tpms pressure sensors installed.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/2456ecd4fbd05a8c8d90f9f10c71918b-1.jpg

Note the spindle seems shorter on the new orange ones.
The angle can be adjusted by loosening the stem from the sensor.
Tyre place told me they are wrong and wouldn't fit...

My rears were also pretty well gone (pirelli p1) so I got some Michelin PS4s for my fronts @220 each and moved my ps3s to the rear.

Waiting on my tpms sensor mounting bracket to arrive so I can get it installed and cabled up...

pandas
08-12-2016, 08:06 PM
how would you rate the difficulty of replacing the seat base, and how long did it take you?
Mine is driving me nuts at times.

kamold
09-12-2016, 04:56 AM
Difficulty I'd rate medium took probably 3 hours.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

pandas
09-12-2016, 08:19 PM
Difficulty I'd rate medium took probably 3 hours.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

Would you know if there is any revision on the base cushioning, eg will the issue reoccur later down the track with the replacement?

kamold
09-12-2016, 08:25 PM
Yes the issue will recur (I presume)
It's a flawed (yet still awesome) design.
You could always put some less sporty seats in. (?)

I have figured out a 'manouvre' to get in which I am hoping will prolong the new seat base's life.
I enter rearward first and then put my outside hand onto the door sill to allow me to 'vault' over the bolster.

Netrover
10-12-2016, 03:04 PM
Yes the issue will recur (I presume)
It's a flawed (yet still awesome) design.
You could always put some less sporty seats in. (?)

I have figured out a 'manouvre' to get in which I am hoping will prolong the new seat base's life.
I enter rearward first and then put my outside hand onto the door sill to allow me to 'vault' over the bolster.

yes I've been doing exactly that since I got the car 2 years ago after seeing damaged ones while I was looking for the right car. My drivers bolster still looks mint. Passenger side has a few minor creases in it as wifey hasn't yet mastered the manoeuvre!

pandas
11-12-2016, 09:24 AM
yes I've been doing exactly that since I got the car 2 years ago after seeing damaged ones while I was looking for the right car. My drivers bolster still looks mint. Passenger side has a few minor creases in it as wifey hasn't yet mastered the manoeuvre!

Bolster stood no chance while wife was preggies lol, but yes I know the manoeuvre very well myself. Its like launch control.
I was this close on buying the replacement foam, up until I opened my mailbox after being occupied by our newborn for the last 2 weeks...

Jakeys
12-12-2016, 12:28 PM
I enter rearward first and then put my outside hand onto the door sill to allow me to 'vault' over the bolster.

I use the steering wheel, I grab it and use it to lever myself in then drop onto the seat. Same to get out. So if the car isn't off and the wheel is free to move it ****s my system up and I struggle to get in and out like some sort of obese person haha.

kamold
22-12-2016, 07:26 AM
Tpms installed

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/a9099b697e81816813ce8cbb7b801b59-2.jpg

Was a bit involved in terms of having to remove the rear bumper and run the cables up the front to the canbus gateway but worthwhile I think.

Can switch between PSI, Bar and kPa.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/bfcd46add8ab0a92ca339608910d10c3-2.jpg

Has a table of different tyre/wheel sizes to select from.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/f3f7ffe6f19047013e2f96f0b8289910-2.jpg

Mine aren't in there but there is a utility available from a developer in Germany (dunt.at) to create a custom table and apply it to the TPMS control module using ODIS.

Passat R36
22-12-2016, 07:59 AM
Top work! Way better than the stock one!

prn31
22-12-2016, 09:32 AM
What does the stock TPMS do - besides telling you that you have low tyre pressures?

Kamold, what VW model does this TPMS come from?

kamold
22-12-2016, 09:38 AM
What does the stock TPMS do - besides telling you that you have low tyre pressures?

Kamold, what VW model does this TPMS come from?

Stock TPMS in our R36s has sensors in all four wheels. However these are not individually identified should one of them fall below the pressure threshold after you have set it by holding down the TPMS button after you fill your tyres.
It will ding and show the tyre pressure warning in the dash, then you need to go and check all your tyres.
The TPMS receiver is embedded in the Central Convenience Module (CCM) located behind the glovebox.

This TPMS high is from the B7 Passat. However the mounting point for the 3aa907538 bracket which holds the 3AA 907 273H receiver is already available on our cars (behind the rear bumper, just up above the right exhaust), so I assume this was available in other markets as far back as the 2006 introduction of the B6.

kamold
10-01-2017, 04:23 PM
Custom data set applied to the TPMS module

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/662024e2076d4b52a94f39d96fb9b264-2.jpg

kamold
20-02-2017, 06:54 AM
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/02/819614c2554f0692a59e0139632041d6-2.jpg

This is what a warning looks like with tpms direct.

tinto
20-02-2017, 11:13 AM
Great work. My bolster was flogged on the high part rather than the low, everyone must get in/out a bit differently.
I swear the previous owner of my r36 had pimp-level volume of rings on their hands, so beaten up was the metal trim with dents and scratches. It irritated me as a touch point, as those create the lasting experiences of a car, stuff that's well worth renewing (or keeping a few bits on hand) on the earlier R cars.

I can't help but notice you keep missing out a couple of key tools when you're describing what you need to do these complex retrofits:
Balls of steel.

Essential IMO.
I don't have a set.

kamold
20-02-2017, 06:57 PM
Great work. My bolster was flogged on the high part rather than the low, everyone must get in/out a bit differently.
I swear the previous owner of my r36 had pimp-level volume of rings on their hands, so beaten up was the metal trim with dents and scratches. It irritated me as a touch point, as those create the lasting experiences of a car, stuff that's well worth renewing (or keeping a few bits on hand) on the earlier R cars.

I can't help but notice you keep missing out a couple of key tools when you're describing what you need to do these complex retrofits:
Balls of steel.

Essential IMO.
I don't have a set.

I'm the third owner of mine and luckily the 2 previous owners took pretty good care of it. I know the previous owner and know he tooko very good care, I think the original owner was a bit harsh on the bolster but otherwise the interior is in very good nick. The plastic cover over the dash is still there that you are supposed to take off day one but I can't bring myself to do it.... ;)
One scratch on the coin cubby and my kids crumbs and so on all over the back but when I give it a clean I reckon it holds up well to most new car interiors, particularly with the colour MFD and upgraded climatronics.

As for the additional tools, it might also be a case of mushy peas for brains but I just can't help myself ;)
It's not like nobody has done them before, I get a lot of good (google translated) info out of the guys in Europe but I'd venture there are a few things that I've done (and have planned) that are possibly firsts for Aus.

That said I was a little concerned when I bricked my CCM and the car wouldn't start but I knew I had a dump of the EEPROM and just needed to re-write it. Preparation is the key as are backups backups backups.

Paddlin_life
20-03-2017, 08:40 AM
I'm the third owner of mine and luckily the 2 previous owners took pretty good care of it. I know the previous owner and know he tooko very good care, I think the original owner was a bit harsh on the bolster but otherwise the interior is in very good nick. The plastic cover over the dash is still there that you are supposed to take off day one but I can't bring myself to do it.... ;)
One scratch on the coin cubby and my kids crumbs and so on all over the back but when I give it a clean I reckon it holds up well to most new car interiors, particularly with the colour MFD and upgraded climatronics.

As for the additional tools, it might also be a case of mushy peas for brains but I just can't help myself ;)
It's not like nobody has done them before, I get a lot of good (google translated) info out of the guys in Europe but I'd venture there are a few things that I've done (and have planned) that are possibly firsts for Aus.

That said I was a little concerned when I bricked my CCM and the car wouldn't start but I knew I had a dump of the EEPROM and just needed to re-write it. Preparation is the key as are backups backups backups.


Kamold,

The mods you have undertaken are nothing short of amazing.

I would love to do/get these done however I am lacking the knowledge, time and most importantly the $$$ to make it happen.

Maybe one day, lol...

Congrats again on the awesome work mate...

Keep it up!!

kamold
20-03-2017, 09:39 AM
Thanks for the words of encouragement :)
Have 2 bigger mods in the works, but going to be a few months by the time I gather all the parts together and do the prep work necessary for the installs

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Paddlin_life
20-03-2017, 05:31 PM
Thanks for the words of encouragement :)
Have 2 bigger mods in the works, but going to be a few months by the time I gather all the parts together and do the prep work necessary for the installs

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Any hints as to what the mods are?? lol

kamold
20-03-2017, 05:33 PM
Adaptive cruise control retrofit and Discover media head unit.
Both require fairly extensive supporting mods and hardware modifications before they are fitted.

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seanmau5
20-03-2017, 07:40 PM
Impressive! Care to share more info on the TPMS upgrade? That's something I want to do, I have an 09 CC. Looking at what I've already done (front/rear footwell lights, front/rear door courtesy lights, towbar and associated module/wiring installation, Bluetooth 9w7 change) plus VCDS fiddling, how do you think I'd go doing this myself?


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kamold
20-03-2017, 08:34 PM
It's relatively straightforward.
You'll need to replace your canbus gateway with a 7n0 variant that has extended can.
Buy tpms kit.
Swap tyre pressure sensors.
Install tpms module (remove rear bumper) and cable up 2 pins to new gateway.
Disable tpms in CCM (I replaced my CCM with a B7 version that doesn't have it integrated)
Code gateway and tpms module.

Feel free to pm for any questions

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seanmau5
20-03-2017, 09:42 PM
I guess the other thing is cost. Is it worth it?


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kamold
21-03-2017, 05:01 AM
Worth is a matter for the individual.
In my case as I'd lost tpms due to my CCM upgrade I did not want to lose functionality so it was an easy decision.

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seanmau5
21-03-2017, 08:29 PM
This is true.. I guess what I mean to ask is what is the associated cost to the upgrade. Mine is currently fully functional so I guess it's a different situation for me.


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kamold
21-03-2017, 10:43 PM
Gateway and tpms kit plus time and coding.
Check aliexpress for pricing.

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kamold
22-03-2017, 04:27 PM
3d colour cluster installed today, along with new steering wheel with paddles.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/03/ca15f6efbeef8bf82b4ca70e6e140be8-3.jpg

Not a big change to the regular colour cluster.
I will have my originally upgraded colour cluster available once it is reset if anyone is looking to upgrade send me a message.

Passat R36
22-03-2017, 05:03 PM
Do you disconnect battery while changing the steering wheel? Will the disconnection result in error codes in system?

passat123
22-03-2017, 06:05 PM
Not sure if it would be the same for you (I have B7 Passat TDI). I didn't disconnect the battery, MFSW swap took me less than 10mins, from memory, I just had to code the paddle shifters.

Just replaced battery too, cleared all errors, only error which remained was the steering wheel, to clear this, just had to turn left and right full lock.

kamold
22-03-2017, 06:37 PM
If you are only changing the steering wheel (you should as a precaution disconnect the negative terminal of the battery whenever working near airbags) then you shouldn't get any faults.
If you need to change the steering wheel control module then you'll also need to go steering angle sensor (g85) calibration. It will throw out a whole bunch of stuff until calibrated eg rvc, abs etc

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Passat R36
22-03-2017, 09:10 PM
Good to know, thanks.
Are you selling your R36 steering wheel? I want one to wrap it in Alcantara.

kamold
25-03-2017, 02:36 PM
Here is a video of the new cluster in action:

zo3zM1hPbAc

rjt86
25-03-2017, 06:11 PM
I found the ACC graphics looks quite nice with the 3D cluster when you get around to retro fitting that [emoji106]

Paddlin_life
25-03-2017, 06:16 PM
I am now the VERY proud owner of an MY09 R36 wagon. :banana:
13388

Thought I'd start a thread just to document the little mods I do along the way, as I've enjoyed reading similar threads from other members.

Bought at >60K, in very good condition, no changes from factory:
Biscay Blue, powered tailgate, RNS510, RVC.

First change was just updating the RNS from the original 0900 software (!?) to 4120 with my custom partition ratios. Updated maps, added Aussietig's POI database, then an R splashscreen (http://www.netdata.be/iso/?old=vw#).

Installed the MObridge Bluetooth unit that had been installed my Octavia from the dealer. Its almost as good as the 9w7 except that it doesn't support AVHCP, so I can't control streaming music from the steering wheel, and it doesnt show the track/title info on screen. So eventually I'll replace it.

Next up I got an ECU and DSG tune from CPI as they had the special running with the DSG tune for free.
Haven't had a chance to properly test it but so far so good, just a touch more urge through the band and more up at the top. DSG feels smoother in day to day driving and totally seamless in sport. Downshifts in sport also not too forceful.

Today a few LEDs arrived.

Installed a cheap interior set from Aliexpress (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Passat-B6-CC-4pcs-set-Super-Bright-Premium-auto-LED-interior-Map-Dome-light-reading-lamp/1814806079.html)
Comprises all interior dome lights, glove box, boot and license plate (these ones didn't fit which I wasn't phased about as I have some proper ones ordered). Looks much more modern, I personally can't stand filament globes any more.

Next I installed some T10 LEDs (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-53470-19255-0/1?campid=5337592361&toolid=10001&mpre=http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-x-Canbus-Error-Free-Car-T10-LED-High-Power-1-5W-Wedge-Light-Bulb-W5W-194-168/291279928995?_trksid=p3693.c100102.m2452&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D20140212121249%26meid%3D906de6a330b2480b948 46571a8ae576b%26pid%3D100102%26prg%3D2014021212124 9%26rkt%3D4%26) for the horrible yellow parkers.

Apologies in advance for phone pics...

Original parkers with low beams as comparison:
13392

One original, one LED:
13393

Both LEDs, with low beam xenons:
13394

Hi,

Just wondering which leds you used for your parkers?

Also, do they just go straight in without any modification?

Have been wanting to change mind as the stock yellow looks atrocious!!


Kind Regards,

kamold
25-03-2017, 06:28 PM
The ones I installed in these pics were cheapish ones which lasted well but eventually failed after about 18months.
The only ones which seem to last long term are more expensive but worth it.
They are from boldsport and just plug in no errors or failures.

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Paddlin_life
25-03-2017, 06:36 PM
The ones I installed in these pics were cheapish ones which lasted well but eventually failed after about 18months.
The only ones which seem to last long term are more expensive but worth it.
They are from boldsport and just plug in no errors or failures.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

Ok Awesome,

Do you have links for all the LED globes you've used that have lasted and not brought up errors both interior and exterior?

Kind Regards,

kamold
25-03-2017, 06:50 PM
Parkers are the only ones which were problematic. All the previous links are for LEDs which are still working fine.

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Jakeys
28-03-2017, 11:33 AM
I have given up on eBay parkers as well. They work but eventually burn out from heat. I recently bought some for $24 from Supernova Lighting here in Aus, waiting for them to arrive so no review yet, for the price they better be perfect.

Any panel LED I've bought eg. the mirror puddles are still flawless though.

Domatron
28-03-2017, 08:12 PM
I previously had eBay canbus LED parkers. They only lasted about 6 months before both burnt out within a couple weeks of each other. I have now installed some osram LED bulbs (see link below) with canbus controllers that I got from Blingwork Automotive in Clayton South, Melbourne. Costs a bit more but the light quality is great and they should last much much longer...

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161698461232


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wraith666
28-03-2017, 08:46 PM
Funnily enough I got the quad LED globes from Jaycar. 7 bucks I think and they put out an awesome amount of light and have had no issues on numerous cars. Not sure they would be CANBUS compatible and obviously the warranty is a lot less but I have had them for a good couple years now no issue.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/t10-wedge-replacement-led-quad-globe-white/p/ZD0394

kamold
26-04-2017, 09:25 AM
Teaser...

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/04/1a54303b24759039f75be274c3a41885-2.jpghttp://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/04/ff349bf88c3035b5e34d44318f48d550-3.jpg

GLF118TSI
26-04-2017, 08:56 PM
Good work Kamold, i'm interested!

Jakeys
27-04-2017, 02:57 PM
Before I get my hopes up at replicating this when you post up details, how much did this cost? :P

kamold
27-04-2017, 03:16 PM
I ran out of fingers a while ago. Details to come. Only need to get the rvc working and I'll have full functionality

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Passat R36
27-04-2017, 08:45 PM
As far as I know, RVC wiring is different, MIB uses AV(2 wires), RNS use RGB(3 wires)
Otherwise just plug and play! I was thinking to get the 3 buttons MIB2 but I gave up due to the RVC.
MIB is a much better unit!

kamold
27-04-2017, 09:51 PM
Rvc needs a new camera, new controller and new harness. I've installed the camera, controller and harness but I haven't connected it up yet I'm too tired. Will try and do it in the morning if I have time but have to drive to Canberra so I will struggle for time.

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kamold
29-05-2017, 09:06 AM
Been pretty quiet of late (I've actually been quite busy on some mods but not quite finished so don't want to spoil by posting half updates).

While waiting for the other big updates thought I'd post on perhaps my most ambitious upgrade to date...

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/05/35f41028e25dbf6501ccee2690bdc324-3.jpg

Hoping for some big power gains at the wheel but will have to wait for some before and after dyno runs to know for sure

XXX-1.8T
29-05-2017, 10:31 AM
Wrong .:R Logo :)

Nice anyways :cool:

kamold
29-05-2017, 10:47 AM
Wrong .:R Logo :)

Nice anyways :cool:

Haven't seen ones with the other R logo unfortunately...

Passat R36
29-05-2017, 10:59 AM
10 house power per wheel, guaranteed

Domatron
29-05-2017, 11:42 AM
Haven't seen ones with the other R logo unfortunately...

I got these a few months ago.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121548588256

Lots of swearing getting them installed but well worth the effort ;)


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kamold
29-05-2017, 12:06 PM
Wow they're expensive... Mine were about 90% cheaper...don't think I'm too fussed that the logo is different ;)

kamold
02-06-2017, 06:54 PM
Installed my new long shifter.
Has a bit of an indirect feel...http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/06/a2b6ce2949df1f201967d576bced73f3-3.jpg

Passat R36
02-06-2017, 07:08 PM
What is that?

kamold
02-06-2017, 07:46 PM
Lol it's me replacing my whole centre console. Only had time to take the old one out so that's how I'm driving the car until next week

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Passat R36
02-06-2017, 10:31 PM
why replacing?whats the big project you are working on?

rjt86
02-06-2017, 10:32 PM
lol looking good

kamold
03-06-2017, 07:37 AM
Have to replace the centre console in order to get the new lever type park brake switch which is next to the gear selector in B7 as opposed to the button next to ignition coil in B6.
It's part of my adaptive cruise retrofit.
With some luck I might have it done later this week....

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Passat R36
03-06-2017, 08:52 AM
Nice, you R36 will be fully optioned soon!

kamold
06-06-2017, 05:17 PM
Adaptive cruise control with front assist installed and working!
Car is still a mess because I need to reinstall the new centre console but this has been a huge journey for me and I don't have time to get it all back together until next week.
A more detailed write-up to come but needless to say I've learnt a lot!http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/06/20c50225b4ba20d32ec2a9ca49a09b15-2.jpghttp://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/06/c351ecd8efdc028b9b0f2d37df40dfee-3.jpg

prn31
06-06-2017, 09:57 PM
That certainly looks different to the B6 Adaptive Cruise Control. Have you put the B7 system in to work with the later MFD? Is that why you needed to move the Parking brake location? In my B6 the ACC and Front Assist are on different menus and you need to switch on the Front Assist independently to the ACC.

Have you replaced the Cruise Control stalk so that you have the distance toggle switch on the top of the stalk? I see so many R36s advertised with ACC, but when you look at the stalk you know they just have the standard Cruise Control.

kamold
07-06-2017, 01:02 AM
Yes I had to replace the centre console with the B7 version to get the newer Electric park brake switch in order to be compatible with the B7 ABS module I installed.
I had to get the B7 ABS module to be compatible with the B7 Comfort and Convenience Module.
I had to install the B7 CCM to be compatible with the upgraded cluster.

B7 ABS is also easier to get and can be modified to ACC capable from regular version.
Newer ABS also has newer software as does the B7 radar.

Had to upgrade to new instrument stalks to get the ACC switch with distance control.

Was quite a journey will post more details soon...

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kamold
07-06-2017, 07:58 AM
Here is the writeup:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f234/adaptive-cruise-retrofit-118949.html

kamold
20-06-2017, 06:11 PM
If ACC wasn't enough I've gone and 1 upped myself!

Climatronics staging lol

https://youtu.be/vytJ7w8pa0E