VW MK3 GOLF 8V TO 16V CONVERSION

[golf3]

Hey guys,
I have begun the conversion...

I am taking out a 2.0L 8v multi-point injection 85kw motor, and installing a 2.0L 16v ABF multi-point injection 110kw motor and a stronger gearbox...

First of all, my reasons for starting the project
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/8153/imgp31238if.jpg
It's known as a crumble box or 020
Suprisingly, it still drives!
And goes clunk clunk... :D :D :D

So, i bought this...

THANKS CARL! :D
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/5295/imgp31260gv.jpg
and the important DUAL CAMSHAFTS!
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/5378/imgp31352by.jpg

ANd the work begins...
http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/5231/imgp31079eo.jpg
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/6209/imgp31155pf.jpg
http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/9742/imgp31191pa.jpg
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/2200/imgp31324tl.jpg

AND MY ASSISTANTS!
THANKS! :beer: :beer:
(and the crate it came in....)
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/2384/imgp31314mp.jpg

[mikinoz]

good on you!

keep the pics coming!

[Valver.]

Hey sean - sorry forgot to reply to your last IM about the clutch parts :oops: Those prices are crazy, though :!: :?: :!:

Anyway, on a more positive note, that throttle body in the picture has the Digi 3.1 TPS, so it won't have an immobiliser, which makes things a LOT easier.

Goodluck with it :D

[golf3]

Yeah, its from an early mk3 gti...if it did have digi 3.2 i'd have to have the key and transponder thing, or go aftermarket...motec..hehehe...

Otherwise, Carl provided a full gasket kit with it, which means that when i do the head gasket, i'll get the head crack tested and then ported and polished...:D :D :D :D
But because that will happen before it gets running, then i won't be able to do a before and after power test...

Other mods will be the BMC CDA airbox i already have. Catch can to remove the PCV oil going into the intake, i hate that build up!! :evil: :evil: And the exhaust will need to be redone as the baffles in my DTM style muffler are broken...

And when it is running, i will want new cams...

But the question is....Would there be any performance gains in getting new valves and valve springs while i do the head :?: :?: :?: :?:

[Valver.]

But the question is....Would there be any performance gains in getting new valves and valve springs while i do the head :?: :?: :?: :?:

Not unless you move up to bigger valves. I did this on my last ABF - it cost so much that I had to sell the car soon afterwards, though :lol: :lol: The performance gain is massive, though :shock: :twisted: :x

The ABF lifters from the SEAT dealer are $450 on their own... so by the time you add new springs, retainers, guides and stem seals, the bill gets pretty huge - that's without the charges for the port work :shock:

It's far cheaper and easier to buy an exchange head from one of the Euro or US tuners if you intend to get one rebuilt and ported :)

I've read heaps of times that running cams with the stock ABF management throws the lambda reading up sh-t creek. There are a lot of people running a 260 or 268 inlet cam and a stock exhaust cam, so as to keep the exhaust flow down.

Probably not worth it in the scheme of things. You need big money to get the real gains. The headwork is definately worth it, though :D

[golf3]

So, I can get the head ported and polished, AND retain the current valves and valve springs...

I have a friend that got his head crack tested, then polished, probably ported for $400...

I'm just loving having 2 camshafts!

[Valver.]

So, I can get the head ported and polished, AND retain the current valves and valve springs...

I have a friend that got his head crack tested, then polished, probably ported for $400...

I'm just loving having 2 camshafts!

Yep, you can reuse them, provided they're in good nick. The valve springs are tough as hell too :D

400 bucks is pretty damn cheap :shock:

[SOHC]

Man...n ur old motor is even only how many km?! i hope i had the equipment, time n money to do a conversion. mines kinda tired now :(

[golf3]

My "old" motor has 86,000kms...
My parents bought the car NEW!

[SOHC]

yep i did remember u mentioned bout that :cry: , normally how many k's the engine would stand?? mines 175000 already :(

[WABIT]

farrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr man your really doing it

good on ya

wabit

[Tim]

wooo awesome Sean!
Sorry i snobbed u guys yesterday! Ive been busy with other crap.
Thats an awesome garage u got going there! soooo jealous! Ill have to come check it out soon.

[golf3]

I went back this evening to do some more stuff...

Only removed the repaired aluminium sump on the 16v, and managed to crack the sump plug. It was on really really tight!!! So, instead of taking the sump off my 8v, i can still use this one...

And i took the old 020 gearbox off the 8v motor aswell and i found another big hole in the bellhousing and the broken rivets...

I tried to pry apart the gearbox casing to see more, but i gave up...
I will source another bell housing half and repair the rivets to bolts...
But if that happens, then that stuff will probably go in a mk1 or something...NEXT PROJECT..hahaha :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:


The clutch is rooted on the 16v, so i'll need a new one of those...

And the spark plug leads have a gash in one of them, so i'll need to get some new leads too..



http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/7830/imgp31362ib.jpg
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/959/imgp31418eq.jpg
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/9059/imgp31434rt.jpg
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/5821/imgp314515ez.jpg

[GoLfMan]

awesome!!!
watcha gunna do with the old 2L???
keep the fotos coming :twisted:

[Golf Loon]

Glad you are posting these details on here too and that someone bought that abf engine.

Looks good so far.

I`d defo do it in two stages though. Bang the motor in and get it running then when you need more power take the head off, port and polish and maybe cams then put it back in.

Keep us posted.

[joshyd-mk2gti]

good to see your getting stuck into it quickly. that old 020 is stuffed, howd it happen? wish i had a huge shed like that!

[golf3]

It's effectively day three now, being sunday night, and considering i started friday night...

Today i did some removal and installation, as well as checks and inspections...

One of the leads that came in the bundle of goodies has a gash on it, so i will get new leads soon...

I also lound gashes in what appears to be a knock sensor that was bolted to the block... PN# 037 905 377A
Although, i looked on my 8v block and it has something with a different connector, but the same PN#.

Also, considering its a 02A gearbox, i discovered i need the front and rear mounting brackets from a VR6 or similar...
Haven't worked out a source yet...

I also spotted my exhaust is squashed, I'm pretty puzzled as to how it happened, I wonder if it would affect performance at all...???

I removed the gear change linkage assembly and installed the gear change cable assembly...
It was very easy to do and only required dropping the exhaust out of the way and bending (yes bending, hahaha) the heat shield out of the way. The assembly then just came out easily, and went in even better!!

Otherwise, Matt and I removed the head off the block. (I've never done it before)
Matt says there is nothing wrong with the cylinders and the pistons look fine. There is still the cross-hatching on the cylinder walls and only faint vertical lines...

The head and flywheel have now been sent off to get tested and machined if need be... I'll get a quote on that port and polish too!

During the week, I may or may not be doing work on it...
But i will definitely be chasing down parts during business hours...

And the photos...


The squashed down pipe and cable change gear now in place... http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/9840/imgp31584lf.jpg
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/9509/imgp31624ca.jpg
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/8130/imgp316913fa.jpg

The cable..
http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/3047/imgp31703ez.jpg

It looks clean!
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/6122/imgp31712am.jpg

COUNT THEM....16 Valves!!
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/1667/imgp31746go.jpg


And my friend Matt...
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/7764/imgp31786om.jpg

And me "gettin' jiggy wit it..."

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/5665/imgp31497ss.jpg
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/3270/imgp31518zz.jpg

[Valver.]

Going well mate 8) I have the rear mount you need, but not the side bracket, as I had to cut mine to get the cable support off it... though, having said that, it only needs a tab welded on the end and it can be reused easily.

[golf3]

I'm looking at clutches, and from what i've read, this will work...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8068017195

I'm awaiting shipping costs...

If there are any other recommendations, feel free to advise!

[golf3]

And apparently my 8v one will work, but i may buy this instead, if the guy confirms that it is an ABF 2.0L 16v item...

It's a throttle cable...
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/vw-golf-3-gti-16v-throttle-cable-new_W0QQitemZ4643556451QQcategoryZ9889QQtcZphotoQQ rdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[golf3]

And I'm thinking as a final touch a set of 16v badges to tempt those honda drivers...hehehe...

They'd only be put on after the motor is running, but before the car drives away...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-GOLF-MK3-16V-SET-OF-2-BADGES-EMBLEM_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33643QQitemZ8069 906695QQrdZ1QQtcZphoto

[golf3]

OH MY GOD...

I'd love to buy this, but i may just have to become best friends with my dremel and sand paper...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-jetta-golf-16v-Euro-50mm-Intake-manifold-Polished_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42606QQitemZ46 42734870QQrdZ1QQtcZphoto

[Golf Loon]

I have both the mounts you need. For the gearbox.

[golf3]

PM sent...

And this makes me wanna extend my "Student" loan... hahahaha

TURBO KIT!@!@!

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Audi-VW-VW-Seat-16V-Turbo-Kit-f-Garrett-KKK-Lader_W0QQitemZ8054297444QQcategoryZ40187QQtcZphot oQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[Valver.]

Don't extend it to buy that manifold because it won't fit anyway :lol: That's for a k-jet motor :)

[Golf Loon]

You have mail.
And a few pics

http://img8.picsplace.to/img8/15/thumbs/ag60mt.JPG (http://img8.picsplace.to/img.php?file=img8/15/ag60mt.JPG)

The mount and overrider bar.

http://img8.picsplace.to/img8/15/thumbs/amcg3.JPG (http://img8.picsplace.to/img.php?file=img8/15/amcg3.JPG)

The slave cylinder attached to a pedal cluster, conveniently removed from the car :wink:

http://img8.picsplace.to/img8/15/thumbs/amcg3pic2.JPG (http://img8.picsplace.to/img.php?file=img8/15/amcg3pic2.JPG)

Then just the hydraulic bits that you need.

Hope that helps

[golf3]

I believe i need these three mounting brackets...
Of which i can see two in the photo...item 30 and 31

The other bracket, item 10 is for the front mount.

http://img345.imageshack.us/img345/1731/img9wm.jpg

[golf3]

A little machining and voila!

SHINY!!

$27.50

Cheapest thing so far!

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/4527/290520068ok.jpg

[EndlessMKI]

A little machining and voila!

SHINY!!

$27.50

Cheapest thing so far!

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/

wow thats cheap for a lighten & Balanced fwheel.

got a contact for me?

[golf3]

Hey again!

So far this weekend I finished off swapping over the wiring loom, the ecu, and plugging it all into the fusebox...

Otherwise, we pulled off the bearing caps, and have decided to replace those, and I'm unsure if i should replace the piston rings at this point...

I also recieved my mounts from Golf Loon, thank you very much! Very speedy deilivery! Although, i found one of the mounts i bought, i already had...ooops...

So, this is me getting my head around the wiring...
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/2881/imgp31860yo.jpg

The loom...
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/9697/imgp31878hm.jpg

Half way...
http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/9233/imgp31912zj.jpg

Where it had to go...

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/787/imgp31924go.jpg


The wishing well, first i dropped a clip, then some rubbish, then some coins for good luck
http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/9620/imgp31896mn.jpg

[SOHC]

Wow, its lookin good there, erm... are those blue wires earth cables?did you juz change them as well?

[golf3]

RCA cables for sick mate subwoofer!

[Golf Loon]

Looking Good Sean

Have you got a pic of the engine sitting in there yet?

How`d the wiring go? Have you grown that extra elbow to reach under the dash?

[golf3]

Well, the block doesn't have a sump, head, and its missing a piston...So once the block is together again i will mate it to the box and trial fit...

But after looking at Tim's VR6, (thanks tim) i was able to check the brackets!!!

As for the wiring, I managed pretty well without an extra elbow, however, the rubber boot that sits in the firewall isn't in there right, well, not until i move either the brake master cylinder or brake booster...

[Golf Loon]

Any update? Or just looking during the week?
I have a manifold if you wanna go that route.

[Golf Loon]

Painted valve cover...
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/1811/intake26ki.jpg

[Golf Loon]

I just polished the idle stabilizer too...
look how dirty it was in the photo above...
now it's reflecting!

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/4999/idlepolish0bd.jpg

[Golf Loon]

Any updates?

[WABIT]

yeah tell em what you got sean

wabit

[golf3]

Lots of news and pictures...
YAY!

So, I've spent more uber cash...

I picked up my clutch master cylinder and the required piping for it to go to the slave cylinder...

I then needed a VR6 pedal box, so Loon came to the rescue with immediate shipping! I owe much gratitude to you Matt as you were able to provide a detailed descirption and a great service! Cheers! Beers on me when I come to some VW show in NSW...

http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/9152/imgp33573vs.jpg
I also bought some belts, but still need the timing belt...

But more importantly, I recieved the head back today...
And it cost more than i was quoted, but what can you do?

Description

TO R & R CAMS AND BUCKETS
PRESSURE TEST
SUPPLY AND FIT 8 EXHAUST GUIDES
VALVE GRIND AND MACHINE
SET STEM PROTRUSIONS
SUPPLY AND FIT WLECH PLUG
POLISH PORTS

http://img360.imageshack.us/img360/584/imgp33557dz.jpg

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/6552/imgp33524kw.jpg

[GoLfMan]

mate that is hot!!! how long is it until you get it on the road?

[golf3]

It will be on the road as soon as I get timing belt, clutch kit, head bolts, ignition leads, rings and bearings...

Then install it...

So, probably ages...

By the way guys,
the head never came back with the chain installed, is this right???
I wanna make double sure!

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/9525/imgp33625ji.jpg

[golf3]

Oh yer,
this is before!

http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/1483/imgp31744dq.jpg

[golf3]

Another thing...

Is there a correct way to mount the distributor??
I don't want it sparking on the wrong cylinders...

Also, how is the tensioner thing on the head supposed to be held in place. There's a bolt for it attached to the head, but the head people obviously dind't give me back the nut and washer to hold it into place...

Any special way to tighten the camshaft caps???

[Valver.]

This's the best way to fit the cams (in my opinion anyway): Stand them upright on the bench with the sprockets at the bottom. Put the chain around them and set the dots by looking directly down onto them.
With them set opposite eachother in the inside of the chainwheels, keep the chain taught and put them in the head. As long as you keep the chain tight they'll stay in the right place. If they twist when you drop them in, it'll be ok as they've turned, and not jumped teeth.
The centre of the dots should be level with the face of the head and the dots should be bang opposite eachother on the inside (ie they're as close as you can get them to eachother with the chain taught). Even one tooth out and the car will run like ****.

This is the only pic I can find - **THIS IS WITH THE CAMS -NOT- CORRECTLY LINED UP** The two dots must be exactly levelled with that ridge you see on the head casting:

http://www.deako.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/6aproject/camtiming.jpg

When you torque them down, it's very hard to stop them spinning, so try to keep the chain taught so they turn as one piece and thus remain timed correctly in relation to eachother.

The ABF tensioner just has a nut and bolt on the end. It's also marked to show when the belt tension is correct. When the two arrows line up, the tension is spot on. Leave the slack on the back of the belt (the tensioner side) so when the tensioner loads up, it grabs the slack and won't pull the crank around. The intermediate shaft doesn't matter as it doesn't drive the dissy as on an 8v.

The bearing caps need to be done in order and torqued down progressively (you also should have numbered them on removal, but I think I told you that already?). I have a great pic to show how this is done, so will scan it and post it up to save explaining.

Pretty fiddly job, but not overly hard :)

[golf3]

I have just finished two full days of working on the car, and although it may not seem like much, this is the first chance I've had to sit down and type anything, and have a bourbon...

I have to dedicate today's work to my mates Adam and Alister... But Adam stayed the longest today! His drill also came in handy!!

So, Friday, I decided to install the new pedal box...

NOTE: This job is an absolute pain and can't be done without removing the steering column. Which VW so kindly has installed and bolted to the chassis with bolts that have heads that sheer off when tightened.
So, only after Loon recommended using the angle grinder, or dremel in my case, was I able to undo them. I had to cut into it so a flat head screw driver could turn it, but, in my case i had to attack it severly, and use a screw driver and hammer to get it to "crack" and turn freely.
Otherwise, that means i was able to install my clutch master cylinder, which is now complete and hooked up to the brake fluid reservoir by a bit of fuel hose, the piping to the slave has also been installed, but yet to be hooked up to the slave.

If you were to use an O2A gearbox, just use a cable clutch operation. They are sometimes hard to find. The only reason I never went that route is because I could never find a kit, most places wouldn't seperate the kit with a gearbox. But after I ordered stuff, a kit popped up for around $299US.

I also removed the exhaust down pipes and catalytic convertor so I could remove the coins and rubbish that fell down there.

I took off my rear wheels, and installed my spacers, but only before beating my rear guards to fit the 15mm spacers without sever rubbing. My wheels are obviously skewed, because it doesn't rub on the drivers side, but does on the the passenger side. I got two mates to jump up and down while standing in the back doors...Any sugestions? Bushings?



And Today:

I was able to make it to the local VW dealer today and pick up a steering linkage boot that comes from the firewall and goes to the steering rack. My orginal had a hole burnt into it by the exhaust manifold. Thought i may as well do it when the engine is out. It also keeps outside stuff out from around my pedals inside the car.

It was time to prep and paint things like the gearbox and the alternator and brackets, and a general clean up. I did a small part of the engine bay, but got bored of that. So we began stripping bits off and using the wire disc to prep it, and the painted it silver with high temp enamel.

Everything looks great!

Except for the alternator... HOW IN GODS NAME DO YOU UNDO THE CASING??

I need to break it apart and just spray the casing, thats it, but it won't budge. Is there a special trick. DO i have to undo the bolt on the pulley thing, if so, how? It stands out like a sore thumb on all this new looking stuff. ARGH!

I also pulled out all the pistons to clean them in preparation for the new rings and bearings.


Gearbox before:
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/3912/nz006ci1.jpg

After attacking it with the wire discs and taped up:
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/9871/nz002pr2.jpg

The final result, with all ancilleries done:
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/2919/nz005mf4.jpg

The aux gear with a dirty alternator, and me in the background:
http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/3905/pictureff0.jpg

[golf3]

Now, question time...

When the head was done the removed the cams, obviously...
The Haynes manual says i need new camshaft cap nuts..
It also says i need to put sealant between the cap and the bit it goes on...
Opinions please!!!

Pics for info:
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/3549/camcapwm0.jpg

Is there anyway to clean radiator hoses? As you can see from the pic, mine are cruddy looking! I was thinking amourall...
There is no way I am paying 200pounds for coloured ones!

That's all...
No more typing, more bourbon...

[golf3]

Just discoverd something that supports Stu's (valver) case for this motor being in a mk1 or mk2...

The abf is meant to have an exhaust manifold like this...

http://www.scirocco16v.com/16v_mk2roc_gallery/i-1.jpg

Mine is a cast manifold...ARGH!

[Valver.]

That tubular manifold is for LHD &/or early model ABFs - nearly all the RHD ones have a cast one, so don't stress!

The tube ones crack pretty often anyway. I bought two a while back and both were cracked at the flange :| The cast one flows ok anyway :)

The two heads I've had done now came with new cam cap nuts and studs, but I told them to replace everything. I've not heard that they must be replaced (maybe someone else can chime in here - Ed? Drew?).

My last head came assembled with a stack of cam lube on the lobes and journals, but no sealant.

Sounds like you're making some great progress :D :thumbup:

[Golf Loon]

Good work Sean. nice update. I reckon you earnt that bourbon!
Fret not about the manifold, cast ones flow pretty sweet. Theres always extractors down the line.
The alternator looks ok mate, I`d leave it and slap it back in.
The cam nuts and sealant probably dont matter, provided they are torqued down correctly.
Are you gonna stuff the piston back it? Or get new rings?
Keep up the good work.

[golf3]

No work for today...

Too much bourbon...

[golf3]

I just began doing a little polish of the lower intake manifold, where the injectors sit...

Here's a progress shot...
(excuse the outside, it will be cleaned and painted)
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/9190/imgp3368mb3.jpg

[golf3]

All done with polishing...
Now it just needs a coat of paint...

It's not 100% smooth for those of you concerned about flow problems and fuel beading...Even though most of the lower intake mani is before the injectors..

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/9599/imgp3369el4.jpg

[Golf Loon]

Smooth baby! You can even see the dremel in the background ;)

[golf3]

I received my parts from the UK after paying for customs and stuff, oh well...

http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/535/nz012yz7.jpg

I also purchased oil, coolant, distilled water, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and spark plugs. Which, suprisingly i purchased from VW, after no-one had the ones i wanted...

So i put it all together, and i can't be bothered typing much, so here is a quick photo of it as i left...

Everything was pretty straight forward, although i only have 2 bolts holding the gearbox onto the block, and only one bolt holding the starter motor in place...

The flywheel bolts were a pain, but i was able to use a spanner and a bolt to stop it from turning...
http://img157.imageshack.us/img157/7637/nz016ad1.jpg

[Tim]

woo! looks awesome sean! cant wait to see how she goes! U have to call me b4 u fire it up!

[GoLfMan]

looks mint mate keep up the good work!!

[Golfwise]

[QUOTE=golf3]I received my parts from the UK after paying for customs and stuff, oh well...

Why did your parts have to come from the UK.
From what I see in the picture it can all be purchased in good old Aus

[WABIT]

woo! looks awesome sean! cant wait to see how she goes! U have to call me b4 u fire it up!


me too, mee tooooooooooooo ;D

wabit

[Golf Loon]

Nice work Sean. When are you gonna slap it in the car?

[golf3]

Loon, I have your answer...

Most things are hooked up, but I had to leave it at that for now...

Never the less, I'm really happy with this weekends progress!!!

(crap pics, i only had my phone, I'll get some better ones)
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/5551/3007061908kw2.jpg
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/5243/3007061906zr4.jpg

[GoLfMan]

nice work mate!!! next week start up?

[Golf Loon]

Niiice
Getting there mate. Putting the front back on always takes longer than you think. Should be making noises soon though.

[golf3]

Did a little bit more work today...

I found a bolt and nut for the gear selector, and now I can select gears, albeit vaguely...

I have hooked up all the coolant and heater hoses, and aircon and power steering, except for those to the radiator and condensor...

The accelerator cable works, and the vacuum line for the brake booster had to be extended, but lines up now...

I still have plugs that go to places i don't know, but etos will have to come help me in that regard...

Otherwise, does the vacuum line that i'm holding go to the fuel pressure regulator...??? Or is the regulator hooked up to a vacuum line in the intake???

And can someone please go into paint and show me which ignition lead goes to which plug from the distributor???

Are there any timing adjustments to be made??

Thanks!
SEAN...

http://img306.imageshack.us/img306/2725/nz019vh0.jpg

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/3765/ignitionleadskq9.jpg

[finemk1]

the fuel pressure hose connects to the intake after the throttle body to the hose connector at the back of the top intake, ie right behind the "16V", , but the hose your holding i cant really see it all that well, ,could be for the computer if running after market and that too gets connected to the intake, or something to do with the emmisions stuff.. but thats all i can help you with, positive about the fuel regulator hose though...

[Tim]

i just checked on my car cos i remember seeing a white hose like that one on my car sean. And well. i had never taken notice. but. one end is hanging free like that. I traced it back to the other end. it goes to my washer bottle motor and then out the other side of it and it just has a bolt iplugging it.. so yeah. weird. Id be interested in knowing what the deal with that is too if its the same one. where does yours go to?

[golf3]

Number 1 - blocked off...

Number 2 - ???

Number 3 - Brake booster

Number 4 - Fuel Pressure regulator???

http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/3700/imgp31271rr8.jpg

[golf3]

I put the front of the car back on...
YAY!
Called Valver, and found out which posi on the distributor is what...
THANKS A LOT BUD!

Here's my teary, and i need HELP

The coolant is leaking from the head at the front waterneck...

The oil light is FLASHING!

The injectors aren't spraying anything (either no signal or blocked. There is fuel getting to the rail though)

So, to sum it up...

It's not cranking over...

I'm sad!

[golf3]

I need one of these...

Part number...
either 037 121 132 J or 037 121 133 J

http://forum.vwsport.com/pics/data/3047/medium/06A_ADR_Intake.jpg

[Valver.]

Hi mate, got your sms last night... I think I replied, but not sure if I actually sent it (had quite a celebration last night!! lol).

Ok... Vaccuum lines:

Number ONE can't be blocked off -> it usually runs to the airbox factory airbox, so run a line off it and drill and tap in an outlet into your metal intake pipe.

Number TWO: ECU Vaccuum line - there's an attachment/port just above the main harness connection; you need to run the line to that.

Number THREE: Yep, to the booster.

Number FOUR: Yep, that is for the regulator.

The coolant is probably leaking from the head as there's no gasket behind the waterneck. You have to use a new one, especially on a motor that's been sitting around. Check if it's there - I doubt it is.

Check if you have the feed and return fuel lines the right way around. There are arrows -->in and <--out on the top and bottom.

Check you've connected the harness to the fuel rail.

Pull the rail, leave it connected to the fuel system and power and try and turn over the motor and look for the spray. If fuel is getting there and returning, but not spraying, they mustn't be getting a signal... I doubt they're blocked, but I'm no genius.

[Golf Loon]

Yeah you need a gasket behind the waterneck. I bought 2 new ones and got no gaskets with them :(

Oil switches could be the wrong way round.

You are getting close though I reckon.

[golf3]

Yeah..

I don't know where that ECU vacuum line goes to...oh well...

I'm pretty sure the fuel lines to the rail are they right way around...
And i did take the rail off and there was no spray when i was cranking it over...My mates thought i was crazy to do it and had the fire extinguisher handy...

As far as the waterneck, there is a thin plastic ring around the hole, and that has broken away in sections, so it may be that. The rubber gasket is new, as that was with the head gasket kit. Otherwise, the head is pitted around where the neck is. SO, i believe the water is escaping between the head and seal where the pitting is, not between the seal and plastic neck.

It's sending me loopy!

As for the oil light, god knows...

Any special tricks to check oil pressure?

How do stand alone oil pressure guages work??

[golf3]

GOOD NEWS THEN BAD NEWS...

Because the oil light was flashing, I went out and purchased a oil pressure guage, autometer, and wired that in. It says i have 65psi when cranking over..

Loon then recommended checking for spark by using "start ya bastard" spray...
Sure enough, it fired up briefly!

Well, after checking all wiring up to the fuel rail, then taking the fuel rail apart, replacing a injector with an 8v item, then plugging it back in, it was then spraying fuel!!! So I put the 16v injector back into the rail...

AND IT STARTED...

It idles like crap, sucks all it's air in via the Number 2 (refer to previous picture) port on the throttle body... If you block that off it stalls... The idle stabilisation valve recieves a few volts, but i don't think it's doing it's job... Maybe the o2 sensor is bung...

Anyways, the bad news...

I hadn't run it for that long, but it started to run really badly...
I then noticed that the timing belt has slipped two teeth...

When the bottom timing marks are in line, the timing mark on the cam gear is two teeth to the right of the timing mark on the valve cover...

I have left it alone, as i am too tired and frustrated, and sad...

What steps should i take to check and rectify the problem...
I feel like a moron!

[Oneofthegreats]

i can't really speculate on the other items without seeing it.

It sounds to me like the cam timing was to far advanced to start with by which your ignition timing will also be advanced.
If is has slipped two teeth to the right the cam has advanced. Normally if a timing belt slips it retards the cam timing as the crank is the driver & the cam is the driven.

[Golf Loon]

You are nearly there mate. Its always the hardsest stage going from when it makes noises to getting it running nicely. At least you know it has spark and fuel. All else can be fixed.

Back to basics.

1. Get the timing setup. you will have to put the bottom end at TDC, take the belt off, line up the top end and tighten the tensioner. You are suppossed to rotate the engine 3 times by hand and check that the marks still line up. Then go with the starter.

2. Sort out your vacuum leaks. The ecu needs to be attached to any vacuum, there are are few places it could go to. Block off that No2 leak. Once the timing is right, you can turn up the idle to commpensate if required. Dont worry about the ISV for now, it will run without it, just not as well.

You are so close man, I can smell it. Good luck let us know how you go.

[golf3]

Today went wonderfully!

After getting some great advice over the phone from loon.. (which should be charged at $4.95 a minute, it's well worth it!!!)

I fixed the timing belt after realising it never slipped, it was just installed incorrectly...oops...

I then did a compression test on all cylinders to check for bent things...

Cylinder one - 150psi
Cylinder two, three and four - 200psi

That's within tolerances, so I'm not going to worry about it...I will keep and eye on it though.

After putting everything together, i started it!

It idled smoothly, although a little high at 1400rpm...
I ran it for around 20minutes, with a loud ticking noise, but that will go away within 200km's i've been told.
The temperature guage worked, and the thermo fans kicked in. Which is great because I will need those in summer.
There was a little bit of smoke out the exhaust and on the exhaust manifold and downpipe, but after the oil and crap burnt away, it stopped.

The plugs were dirty, so i gave them a clean, and after trying to crank it over a few times, the battery died...I've placed that on charge overnight...

It's really wonderful that it has started, and I can now see the light at the end of the tunnel...

Thanks to all involved...It will be driving soon!!

[Golf Loon]

Nice work Sean. I reckon you earned that Bourbon ;)

Check the oil level tomorrow, then get it warm and hold the revs at 3000 for 20 secs then rev it, then do it again. That should quieten the lifter noise.

The idle is adjustable downwards. At least its running.

Can wait for the 1st test drive report.

Well done Mate.

[Tim]

woo congrats sean!
Im envious. Cant wait to get elbow deeep into my car!

Do you have everything u need to complete the job now? How did u go driveshaft wise? are the old ones compatible?

[golf3]

yeah, i hooked up the driveshafts ages ago..

i first compared diff housing and flanges when i got the 020 out and sat it next to the 02a...

[Tim]

awesome! I think another melbourne cruise is gonna be on the cards soon!

[golf3]

Well, today I had the first drive!
Although I only took it up the street and back...

I have some issues to work out though...

It's getting too much fuel it seems, which covers the plugs in crap, so everytime you run it, you need to clean them...

The idle was still a tad high, but i think that has something to do with fuel.

On the motronic 3.0 system, does the water temp sensor affect idle at all, as that sensor broke, and is not hooked up...???

And I'm throwing up the following codes as well..

00523
IAT Sensor - Temp High - Circuit Low - G42

00522
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor -G62

00519 P0106
MAP Sensor - Out of Range -G71 B - Voltage Low -G71 A - Voltage High -G71


Tim has a photo of the car on the road...

[Golf Loon]

Is it a sensor with 4 wires? It probably controls the choke, which would account for the sooty plugs and it running rich. I`d be getting a new sensor.

Did it go ok though?

[golf3]

The sensor has two wires going into it...

Photo's courtesy of Tim... (thanks for your help buddy) (and that's my brother in his goofy hat)

http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/2761/dsc00115pc5.jpg
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/3584/dsc00116pe5.jpg

[golf3]

The speedo doesn't work either...

[Golf Loon]

Is the speedo wire plugged in? Should be a 3 pin connector. That will have implications for your fuelling if its not working.

Take the sender out of the gearbox, as they are very fragile and it may have died. I just changed one on my VR6 and it cost me $70,

Looks sick driving round with no bonnet though. NICE

[joshyd-mk2gti]

your so close to getting it back on the road dude. good job!!

[GoLfMan]

looking good mate!!! not long to go now :D

[Valver.]

Have put some pics and help for you here, mate:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2756070

Goodluck with it :)

[Golf Loon]

Nice writeup Valver. geez your engine bay gives new meaning to the word detailed!

Why not write it up here and add to our knowledgebase. Cut and paste is ok?

[Valver.]

Your motor is a Digifant 3.1 - pre '96, no immobiliser, which is why it started up :D

High idle is a "limp-home" feature according to the VW ABF workshop manual. I s'pose the ECU winds up the idle as it must be unstable at 850rpm (vaccuum leaks probably cause this...).

The running rich problem could almost anything :banghead: You're best to connect up all the sensors and wipe the fault codes and then see which codes come back up and also whether the motor still overfuels.

Chances are it's just very grumpy because it's missing a few things - so probably not a big deal.

Next up, check your vaccuum line setups against mine...

Just went out and took as many pics as I thought would be useful to you. Sing out if you need more...

THIS MIGHT HELP YOU WITH OVERALL REFERENCE OF THE ENGINE BAY. REMEMBER THERE MAY BE A FEW DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE 3.1 AND 3.2 ENGINES:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2006/08/100_2293-1.jpg

MY THROTTLE BODY IS THE DIGI 3.2 VERSION SO MAY BE A BIT DIFFERENT:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2006/08/100_2279-1.jpg

THE BREATHER SETUP ALSO HAS A VACCUUM LINE FROM BENEATH THE IDLE STAB'N VALVE - SEE WHERE IT RUNS FROM THERE TO THE BREATHER TRANSFER:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2006/08/100_2285-1.jpg

[Valver.]

YOU CAN JUST SEE THE FPR BREATHER HERE:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2006/08/100_2284-1.jpg

[Valver.]

THE BLACK OUTLET FROM THE T/B HERE RUNS TO THE CHARCOAL CANNISTER - THIS LINE IS VERY IMPORTANT AS THE ABF IS SENSITIVE TO EMMISIONS CONTROL... YOU NEED THE CHARCOAL SETUP AND IT MUST BE WIRED UP TO THE SENSOR (PIC OF SENSOR HERE TOO):

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2006/08/100_2282-1.jpg

CHARCOAL CANN. READER (JUST IN FRONT OF THE AIR FILETER). [B] IT HAS AN INLET LINE ON THE R/H SIDE - THE BLACK LINE FROM THE THROTTLE BODY - AND AN OUTLET, WHICH RUNS TO THE CHARCOAL CANNISTER ITSELF:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2006/08/100_2280-1.jpg

[Valver.]

THIS IS MY CHARCOAL SETUP - IT USES A WRX CATCHTANK AS THEY'RE A BIT SMALLER

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2006/08/100_2281-1.jpg

THE ECU IS MOUNTED BEHIND THE VERTICAL ALLOY PLATE WITH THE STROEVE BADGE AND VIN ON IT. NOTE WHERE THE VACCUUM RUNS TO IT FROM THE INLET MANIFOLD:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/images/imported/2006/08/100_2288-1.jpg

[golf3]

Thanks a lot mate!

I really appreciate the help you and loon are giving me!

I'll get onto that temp sensor and fix up the vacuum hoses!

I wanna get this thing driving properly!

[Valver.]

Last thing: the feed from the TB to intake pipe is the throttle closed breather - it needs to be air-tight otherwise the idle is a bit lumpy.

I found this out by disconnecting it and testing what happened :)

Ideally, it needs some small hose clamps on it (unlike my setup j: )

[Golf Loon]

Wise words and nice pics Valver. :)

Like the man says Sean, fix the codes that you can and take it from there. I reckon it`ll be temp sender and vacuum issues.

Take your broken temp sender to the dealer and get a new one.

[golf3]

This morning I have already driven to my grandma's, got the temp sensor, took a photo of what appears to be the vacuum line attachment on the ecu (didn't even know it was there), and drove to vw, paid $66.84 incl. GST for a new sensor, and now a two week wait out of germany...

All done and home by 8.05am...

pics for confirmation of ecu...
(nice and crusty mind you, i think its sea salt related...)
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/3496/0908060735yq3.jpg

[Golf Loon]

Two week wait for a sensor. Surely it could go in a jiffy bag and be a couple of days!

The vacuum line thing will help you.

[Valver.]

Yep, that's the vaccuum line. Plug that little fella in and see what happens. Tell VW to get with it and drop that sensor in an overnight bag!!!

[golf3]

I've asked for that kinda service before, and it doesn't happen. I wanted my clutch master and hose to be sent that way.

It gets air frieghted, but there is soo much sorting.

First they get a whole lot of parts that are due for Aus. Wait till that box gets full. Then wait till there is a cheap space on a plane. That then lands in Sydney. Quarantine. Then gets unpacked slowly. Shipped off to 1764 Hume Hwy, Campbellfield. Sorted out there. Then shipped to Camberwell Volkswagen. Sorted there. Then i get called. And by the time i get there to pick it up, it's been 2 weeks...

I can't wait to clean the plugs AGAIN, and plug in that vacuum line. Maybe I'll have my temporary solution!

[MK2 GTI]

Should get them to check up on etka to see if its the same as other models (One thats more common in this country), if its the same as golf 4 1.6/2.0 im pretty sure i can help you out.

[golf3]

I'm a loser...

What does IAT stand for?

INTAKE AIR TEMP sensor!!!!

Of course the car is running uber rich in safe mode!!!

This is what i need and never came with the package!!!

IDIOT!

it comes on tuesday out of sydney $57 or something...

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/2035/iatgn8.jpg

[Golf Loon]

Its all a learning curve. Sounds like you are onto it now.

[golf3]

I picked up the Intake Air Temp sensor today, and fitted it just before the throttle body...

But it's still running way too rich and fouling the plugs...

So, until I get the coolant temp sensor, which is the last code showing up on the vag-com, 00522, the car still isn't going anywhere...

I just hope it comes, solves my problem and all is ready for go karting on saturday...

That gives vw, wed, thurs, and fri to get the part in...
But not likely, i only purchased it 6 days ago...

[Golf Loon]

Are you doing the daily phonecall to hassle them?

[golf3]

No, they are too nice to me...

They call me as soon as the part comes in, and trade discount for everything...

[golf3]

Amazingly the coolant temp sensor came today!

I spose that having some faith pays off!!!

Time to put it in now...

[golf3]

Alrighty... I have installed the coolant temp sensor, and finally got rid of the last error code... I also swapped over the fuel pressure regulator with my 8v item as they are the same 3.0bar and part number...

There is now a new problem...

The two wires I'm holding came disconnected and without plugs...
There are still 5 wires in that loom that go to the throttle body where the tps and that little switch are.

When one of the wires is grounded, nothing happens, so that could be a oil temp sensor or a ground wire in itself, i never checked with the multimeter...

When the other wire is not connected, idle is 1400rpm but it revs properly when the throttle is open...

When grounded, idle is perfect, but with any amount of open throttle, the motor doesn't run right and will go brap brap every second or so...

Now, I'm thinking it could go to that switch thing on the throttle body, even though that is plugged in...

If that is correct, then when on idle, the circuit is complete and therefore idling properly. But when the throttle is moved, the circuit is then made incomplete and aloud to be revved...

Regardless, I'm taking it out this weekend to go karting, even with the high idle!!!
HAHAHA!!!

http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/5792/1608061958qa1.jpg

[Golf Loon]

What colour are the wires. Are you sure there is no additional sensor?

[golf3]

You know what's awesome??

Posting on the net while getting a wheel alignment, thanks beaurepairs...

LOL

[Golf Loon]

Update. Are you driving it yet?

[Water Boy]

Have you had your Golf on the Dyno yet?

How much HP you got at the wheels?

An update would be great...

:)

[golf3]

Hello..

I'm driving it, it idles at 1400rpm, the 70A alternator isn't strong enough, after 4k rpm it rips and sounds awesome. I'm not producing any error codes, my ignition barrel is stupid and is very tempermental about switching the stereo on. Normally all you need is a metal object to contact it. Because it has no abs, it has no traction control and it means turning tight corners at full throttle brings the car to redline as all the power is going to one wheel. Hello Quaife LSD and hello more debt! And I now need new front tyres, especially the passenger, and thats the only one that spins when sitting still...NOTHING SUS!

[golf3]

Oh, hello james, should have introduced yourself...
Just realised...

[Golf Loon]

I reckon the timing is out, producing the power with too much rev and corresponding lack of traction. Could also account for high idle. Vacuum leaks?

Get someone else to look at it, if you keep staring at the same thing, you see the same stuff. Fresh pair of eyes works wonders.

[Golfwise]

Too much power in a mk3 Hmmmmmmm.

[Oneofthegreats]

You can never have too much power in anything.
Trust me, once you've been in a car with 700+hp on the street you'll know exactly what I mean.