mk1 golf goes broom broom

[finemk1]

howdy. i started my own topic thing cuase i think my golf will be a long saga and i might need a lot of help along the way from you guys.
I have a 78 golf, its original paint and im the second owner, even got the origianl rego papers for it WOW
fact: a 78 golf NEW in victoria was $ 6899.00 + 175.00 stamp duty thats in 1978

# i had a 1.8 16v put in with deisel tank and external fuel pump using microtech LT8 and a custom fuel setup. and i was even stevens all the way to stock wrx's at 180km/h

#now i have a 2lt audi with 83.010 KS pistons. new pumps, VW 1.8 head serviced and flowed,2 2/4" exsaust right through with to dogs and a hi flow back box with 3 inch tip, ive kept the fuel set up and microtech LT8 ECU which is now giving me problems, 5spd box, 210 clutch.

#body is reinforced with spot welds and 6mm bolts.
#82 gti mk2 big brake kit with EBC green stuff pads.
#look is sorta spoiled with BSA 16 by 7 alloys in 205/40 falkens, wanted ronal turbos. 5mm wheel spacers on rear to help eliminate seeing the side of the car trough a crazy corner.
#front track is 1403mm, rear is 1380mm
#fixed cobra buckets, new carpet, door sills, new rubbers and no back seat, Gti front quarter windows
#H&R coilovers all round, lower strut brace
#steering column reinforced bracket
#scutle tray cut out and pressed & welded
#remote central and imobiliser and alarm
# and yes it is engineered
theres lots more little things but ive allready written a novell......sorry
ill upload pictures when i know how
cheers

[imported_brackie]

See tips for uploading pics. Looking forward to seeing them. Your ride sounds awesome!

[ValveBounce]

Hey fellas, I just got told about this site this morning and thought I would have a look.
I love old Audi/VW's, and by the looks of this site, im gonna enjoy it.
I have a 76'Golf that Ive painted all inside, now just have to paint the outside, put my Centra wheels on, new shocks and a new motor.

Anyway, G'day to ya all, seeya online!

[finemk1]

fininished pumpumping and painting my guards looks the part now, wound it down a few more mm all round in the process, smoothed the rear panel lines and finished the rain rails and window wiper panel as i decided to go back to having 2 wipers instead of the single conversion, sanded back pedals and coated them with a clear sealer, intalled rev limiter led light between speedo and rev gauges, welded up and smoothed holes dents and seems in the engine bay, waiting on a quick throw gear linkage package from neuspeed and im nearly back on the road folks.......

will post pics soon.

[el_foolio]

wow finemk1, i hafta say im VERY impressed, finally seeing a bit more of your car, has given a whole new meaning to that story you told about the drag/drift. VERY nice mate, very nice

[mrgolf]

Second owner, hey? Did you buy this one from Lennocks a few years ago, and did you used to live in the Woden area? If so, I saw this immaculate historical Mk1 at Lennocks years ago, and wanted to rescue it. Looks like you beat me to it. Never mind, that is one demonic sounding beast you have there. We have met at Pete Shelleys once. I have the 2 door Mk2 GTI...

[ausgolfer]

Hey again Fine,
Have you ordered your short shift yet? If not make one yourself. I did it to two of my mk1's, and also made up a weighted shift rod, all with the help of a friend who can weld. If you need pics of what they look like just ask.
Awesome car too.

[Golf Loon]

Come on Ausgolfer. Have you got the measurements and where the weight went and how heavy it was. post them on here. I was gonna go there with trial and error, but if you know a good length already, tell us.

[finemk1]

yep i agree i was about to do it myself, but wasnt daring enough i roughfly have the specs and idears, but with the kit i get new and shiny everything all bushes and rubber bits, pins, etc etc

but would also love to give it ago at the same time, who know might be able to make it just as good or better and to my colours! if you have it all written down would love to veiw it, ,cheers champ.

[ausgolfer]

I used exactly that guys :wink: trial and error. Well actually it worked out the first time and I didn't need to change it. Simply looking at the kits available and comparing it to stock gives you a good enough idea. I don't have exact measurments as mine was trial and error, but many kits come with two degrees of reduction in throw (25% or 50% I think). But with a bit of ingenuity you could make yours to whatever reduction you'd want.
I never took photos of what mine looked like but I can take some of the standard parts compared to what a kit looks like if you'd like (once I work out how to use my digi cam) :lol: .
Also for the weighted shift rod I just got a length of steel bar about 15-20cm long about inch thick and cut a rut along the edge(to fit the standard bar into) and welded it onto the standard rod as per all other kits. If you look at the shift mechanism in your car you'll see where you can position it without any clearance issues.

[Golf Loon]

Nice, I`m doing a manual conversion on a Mk2 and tomorrow is the day I put the shift rods in. Will be more informed next time we speak.

[finemk1]

well i stole i bit of lead flashing from work, and wraped it arount the link that is ment to be weighted, it felt deferent without driving (as mine doesnt drive) and did feel gooder but still a bit sloppy for my likkings, but i havnt touched the gear linkages since i had the car so i cant expect much. and i had a few rums so i couldnt really tell anyway!

[ausgolfer]

Ha Ha I was doing that last night too, not testing linkages, drinking. I found that you don't really want to reduse the sideways movement onf your linkage much if at all, only for and afte movement of the gear stick. It becomes clear how you can do this if you get someone to change gears in the car while u watch the linkages(ie 1st to 2nd, or 3rd to 4th).
And all cars should be manual :lol:

[finemk1]

well i now know why my previos modded 2lt 3a donk failed... when i put in the oversized pistons i didnt get the valve notches on top of the piston cut deeper, so yeas the valves were so close to the pistons it left a carbon circle on the remainig valves and killed the rest, damn hey... oh well

just updating my progress aswell, my rebuilt 1.8 bottom end is in the car and mostly hooked up but while doing the swap i noticed a few umm CRACKS!!!! in the gearbox housing not big but they are there, ,gee i hope it doesnt blow apart! but i stupidly bolted it up and will cross my fingers all goes well as it has been going stong for a long time and will give me a good excuse to spend $2000 on a quaife 6 speed later on if it goes and if i have the money at the time that is.

my neuspeed gear linkage kit has arrived and is in the process of going in looks awsome to, so i wont have to make up one.

had some brembo brakes quoted for the front, $1500 fitted $1800 with a adjustable hydralic handbrake. decided i would get the thing going first to see if i actually need that set up as i didnt befor.,but i doubt it so i just got new EBC greenstuff pads ,

new 205/40 rubber on the front,

deciding wether to get full urathane bushes kit for underside of car, ,not sure if this will be an easy task or if i should pay someone the bucks to do it for me, anyone done this befor? any suggestions which is best for MK1

will keep posted on how it is going, yeah its slow but im getting there

[VanKronenburg]

deciding wether to get full urathane bushes kit for underside of car, ,not sure if this will be an easy task or if i should pay someone the bucks to do it for me, anyone done this befor? any suggestions which is best for MK1



Extremely important and makes an amazing difference to chassis response, stability and turn in.

It is easy to do but you will need most of the mounts pressed in by an hydraulic press.

You can buy some from VWM, Bonrath or Powerflex. You can also get solid sealed bearing pivots but they make for a very rough ride and I would run them on a race car only :D

[finemk1]

well i finally splashed out so i could upload my pics so here are some of them
i did the guards myself took me a while but turned out ok i think,
http://xs39.xs.to/pics/05300/DVC00704.JPG (http://xs.to)



other pics soon, when i take some decent ones!

[GoLfMan]

dude that looks soo sweet!!! can you take some pikkies of the exaust?

[finemk1]

pics of the exsaust what like the tailpipe bit?

http://xs39.xs.to/pics/05300/ridinlow.JPG (http://xs.to)

[GoLfMan]

looks awesome! is it close to completion? you should turbo it 8) love the rims...pipe...everything.... cleeean car :)

[el_foolio]

absolutely beautiful mate!

[finemk1]

very close just need a head and afew other little bits and peices and chapowwwwieee another golf back on the road.

[GoLfMan]

wat bout the head that golfwise has?

[alex g]

hey bro did you source some poly bushes??? i am interested if you find a source
and by the way http://photobucket.com/ will host your pics for free

[finemk1]

i will be changin the bushes later on i decided when the car is running so i can just drive it in to the pros and drive out with it all done, as you guys say some need to be pressed in so ill get a good job done.

as for the head, ,i can get one but it will cost me a little bit more and i can pick it up plus it has a warranty on it so ill will be getting that one not the one in tassie, and wont be breaking the bank.... but i know if i get the head now i wont fix all the little things wrong with the car, while its off the road im fixing everything! so im getting it to the stage wheer i can just buy the head bolt/hook it up and drive a nice car with the thought that nothing is wrong with it at all.. and im nearly there folks, nearly there

[alex g]

how did you role those arches?? if you dont mind helpin a brother out.not the baseball bat??i hope

[finemk1]

close to but no
striped the paint of with a crazy spining wire brush back to bare metal, heated the arch up with a propane torch grabed a bangstick and a body repair kit, dolly in different shapes, hit the buggery out of the untill they were a relitivly nice shape i wanted, metal filled any weird bits in the arch , i didnt use body filler as i dont beleive in body filler maybe on a jap car but our vws should have the best of the best, but after the meatl fill i did use a tiny bit of filler, which im not to proud of, then the whole painting process,
NOTE. was hard to blend new paint to old but buffing during each layer of paint should fix it, which was my mistake.... i didnt do it

but the rear arches were harder as its twin plated so i had to a bit of cutting, and welded a little extra steel to the bottoms of arch and made it look like try hard WRC style, different to the front as the front slope in and dont flare out as much... now i need bigger wheels!!! might redo the rear, not sur yet...

but this let me lower the car i tiny bit more with no rubbing at all and creates that unique stance

and if anybody knows how to bring the rear out about 20-30mm safely please let me know, even if its a hub change?

[alex g]

i made some hub spacers for my mk2 a few years ago basically spaced the hole hub brake and so on out. basically a plate with holes to space the hub off the trailing arm think they are in the garage i dont know if they will work on a mk1 though ?? or hubcentric spacers h&r are the go.

[finemk1]

i have H&R 5mm on the rear at the mo and i thought that was max but how far can u go with original bolts< where do u get longer bolts? do u need longer bolts?

[alex g]

on my mk2 i have 25mm adapters and 20mm spacers 45mm of spacing, they bolt onto the hub and then you bolt onto the adapter check h&r trak+ hubcentic spacers and all shall be explained

[TassieGTi]

Obviously parts from Tassie aren't good enough!

[GoLfMan]

Obviously parts from Tassie aren't good enough!

what do you meen?

[finemk1]

Obviously parts from Tassie aren't good enough!

not at all mate i like many other people want the most for there money, and i see golf wise is selling his for $450 where the one im looking at is $600 and is complete with warranty low km and will bolt right on plus its closer to me and he will hold it untill i pay it off, and i dont have to worry about postage and the extra hassel well worth the extra 150 bucks i think... just going for the better deal thats all

[TassieGTi]

Sorry....post was made by Golfwise who should have logged off me and on himself after I was using the computer.

Personally don't care less where you get your parts from!!

[finemk1]

well this is the bit ive been waiting for for a while but its in my hands now after replacing many valves. reseating all intake and exsaust guides, so just need to do the cam timing...... which i thought would be done, so might take my a few more days or weeks......... but all the big stuff is outta the way, well nearly....
http://xs58.xs.to/pics/05490/Pic006.JPG (http://xs.to)
isnt it pretty!!!!!

[finemk1]

cam timing done and is correct so im on to the build
http://xs59.xs.to/pics/05502/Pic010.JPG (http://xs.to)

http://xs59.xs.to/pics/05502/Pic008.JPG (http://xs.to)
its might take a bit longer than i expected but atleast im out of the blocks and im happy to get some engine parts out of my room as i was dreaming about them way to much.............
http://xs59.xs.to/pics/05502/Pic011.JPG (http://xs.to)

need to find a 1.816v intermidiate shaft pully bolt and a set of cam cover bolts as i have lost or stupidly place them on another planet, ,this is the reason for my delays/// a few bolts..... bugger

[Golf Loon]

seats look good tho :wink:

[aprr32]

That head is missing 1 inlet valve in each chamber , 16v no - 20v yes!

[alex g]

ohh yer nice work bro i bet you can smell it at this stage

now get the biuffing wheel out and polish up that manifold???if you running injection that is

tidy

[EndlessMKI]

naaaaawwwiceeee.......

saw how much power do you expect this thing to pump out at the wheels?

[finemk1]

running injection and is all prettied up and what not, bit concerned about the fuel rail (might leak), im probably looking for 120bhp? if not wont be far off.
found all my lost bolts except the intermediate shaft pully bolt, i saw it few months ago and put it some where safe........ bit to safe cant find the fu*^&ng thing
yeah loon seats are nice and really comfy
20v yes but ill save that for my next dub if im still employed then and dont die in this one....hahah (gulp)

whole thing needs a decent wash and a long drive.... cant wait

[finemk1]

well folks the motor is done, and after a new starter motor she started pretty much straight away with that orgasmic 16v bark...mmmmmmm tasty..
fix me clutch worries and im on the road........

[GoLfMan]

awesome man!!!!
lets get some action pics 8)

[worm]

Just stumbled across this one...... updates?

she looks lovely mate. Would love some pics.

[finemk1]

updates,,,,,..i replaced the gear box with another 5 speed, not the same though so it should be interesting with the new gear ratios... replaced the new head gasket with a newer 3 peice one and new BGA head bolts.. pained up all the special bits and peices... then ive sorted out my alternator bracket (headache) still not 100% happy and replaced numerous missing bolts, got a newish radiator, fuel filter, starter coil, leads and sorted out all my wiring... which has cleared the error light on my EMS. but i now need another starter motor i think because it just wont turn over, so ill get that this week..
i also found that the smaller wire to the alternator was broken and a chunk was missing, dont ask....... cuz i dont know
ive looked in the manual to suss it out, but because im running the KR set up the wiring is a bit different, does anybody know where this wire goes ( not the thick one which runs to the battery +) my guess is the fuse box...but where?? then i need to attack the brakes, the booster seems to be playing up, but i havnt had a proper look at it yet, so thats where im up to folks..

soon my pretty sooon

[Golf Loon]

Is that extra wire the one for the starter??

[finemk1]

it was in a heat shrink with the wire that goes from battery + to the large terminal on the alternator 13mm nut... the faulty wire attaches to the smaller terminal on the alternator 8mm nut and goes no where at the mo

[Golf Loon]

I`m suspicious that to starters dont work and you had wiring issues. Have you tried a bridging wire (hotwire)?

[finemk1]

ha ha ha im not that smart... haha love your work, might as well make my own circuit with a push button start..... brilliant..

you the man

[h100vw]

That skinny wire to the 8mm nut should be the excitation for the alternator. Needs to have 12volts on it to make the alternator work. Not sure if they call it B+ on the wiring diagrams.

Gavin

[roccodingo]

it was in a heat shrink with the wire that goes from battery + to the large terminal on the alternator 13mm nut... the faulty wire attaches to the smaller terminal on the alternator 8mm nut and goes no where at the mo

Blue exciter wire comes from the relay / fuse plate, usually "A" terminal block to the alternator stud.
from the relay plate the current track then takes it to D terminal and up to the alternator light in the dash..


U can bypass the relay plate and go straight from the dash Alt lite to the Alt terminal.

HTH

[finemk1]

you dudes are awsome, no doubt about it..

[Golf Loon]

Does it kick over yet?

For hotwiring, connect a wire from the big starter 13mm nut to the small terminal connector on the starter. engine should turn over. Make sure you can disconnect the wire quickly if the car starts.

If you want a push button starter, make that wire into the witch circuit. I have bought many Mk1s that have had a push button starter?? I think its an aussie thing !

[smithy010]

Actually i believe it's because the ignition switches are a bit suspect...

I have to short mine across from time to time. normally after a long run for some reason.

[Golf Loon]

Thts probably the tired plastic switch on the back of the ignition barell.

[finemk1]

ok so i tried a dummy run with a push button as you said loon, it cranked over but slower than usual, so i pulled apart my stering column and things had been hacked at when my alarm and central locking went in but after a bit of solder and tape still no go,, the plastic switch looks fine and i cant see any other probs so i turned to the fuse box DUHHHHHHHH

when ever there is a problem with my golf i allways think its major... ive lent my lesson ALL WAYS CHECK THE FUSES FIRST

3 fuses were blown so i replaced ALL fuses, i found they were sitting in the holders fairly loose which was producing sparks, so i just bent them closer with pliers and whoshka the ignition worked and cranked over, but still at a slow rate

i tried jumping it with my mums buz box and it was turning a little bit faster but still sounded sick, so i put my bat on charge over night and ill try tomorrow night with my mates V8 who i use the last time and it worked then, guess it got a bit more grunt... i have a 575cca battery so it should be more than enough for a kr 16v

stay tuned to this bat station...

[GoLfMan]

i cant wait to see this thing back on the road its been a while!!! :)

[roccodingo]

ok so i tried a dummy run with a push button as you said loon, it cranked over but slower than usual, so i pulled apart my stering column and things had been hacked at when my alarm and central locking went in but after a bit of solder and tape still no go,, the plastic switch looks fine and i cant see any other probs so i turned to the fuse box DUHHHHHHHH

when ever there is a problem with my golf i allways think its major... ive lent my lesson ALL WAYS CHECK THE FUSES FIRST

3 fuses were blown so i replaced ALL fuses, i found they were sitting in the holders fairly loose which was producing sparks, so i just bent them closer with pliers and whoshka the ignition worked and cranked over, but still at a slow rate

stay tuned to this bat station...


I would seriously check your battery and engine earthing, can be a suspect when the starter cranks slow.. run an earth from the engine to the coil bracket also..But yeah, the ol' MK1 fuse box / relay plate is one major headache ...:D .

[Golf Loon]

Yeah if you run a fat earth wire from the negative of the battery to one of the bolts that holds the starter on, that should sorth out any earth issues and make it crank over quicker.

Sounds like you are getting closer boy wonder!

[brackie]

i have a 575cca battery so it should be more than enough for a kr 16v


Heaps, mate. I have 630CCA bateries in my Golfs diesels and they turn them over very quickly. I replaced a 575CCA with one of them but the old battery did the job on all but the coldest (-5) mornings. If it can turn a diesel over it can turn yours.

[finemk1]

ok the earth cables are fairly new and so is the starter cable all fat battery cables, i notice the earth strap from the gearbox mount to the chassis was getting hot after a few cranks so i cleaned all the contact points and bat terminals with sand paper which made it crank a fair bit faster with out the earth strap getting hot. but then i noticed the starter motor getting fairly hot.. ive got spark to all plugs and there new plugs too...... i have had the engine running befor i swapped the gear box over but now all this crap,
is it woth it to run seperate earth wires from battery to chassis and battery to engine rather than the battery to engine then strap to chassis

i will move the cable to the starter motor bolt tomorro morn

does any body know what charge the alternator should be putting out for a KR donk?

damn bat mobile wont even start...ill have to run!!

[brackie]

but then i noticed the starter motor getting fairly hot..
Under normal cranking it shouldn't get hot. If you crank it for >20 sec then you'll feel a rise in temp on the armature casing. A hot starter usually indicates high resistance and this can be caused by a number of things. Starter motors ain't rocket science so pull it off and take it to bits. First check that all resistances are within specs (you'll need a multimeter and a good workshop manual) and if they are, clean the commutator with fine wet and dry. Hopefully it isn't too eroded which case it will have to be skimmed. Check the commutator for arcing between the segments and if there are traces of copper use a scriber to get rid of them. Look at the bushes (especially the bush at the pinion end) and if there's play replace them. Obviously if the brushes are sticking or worn replace them.


does any body know what charge the alternator should be putting out for a KR donk?
Should be between 13.5 and 14v. Just put the multimeter probes on the + and - terminals on the battery and rev up to about 2000


damn bat mobile wont even start...ill have to run!!

[Golf Loon]

Mate, put a fat earth wire from the earth terminal on the battery to the bolt that holds the starter in. An extra earth is ok. It will then make a good circuit and should crank faster.

If its still not cranking fast enough, take out one spark plug and try it with just 3. I have started many a reluctant motor this way. Once it fires first time, stick the plug back in and you are done.

Let us know how it goes boy wonder;)

[britchie]

i had a problem like this with my 16v, very hard to turn over.

get the earths sorted

i would check to see if you can turn the motor over by hand. if its to hard, take the spark plugs out and turn by hand. if its still hard to turn over, check that the caps holding the camshafts are done to the right torque. (just an idea - i am sure this is what was holding mine up)- be careful not to break the cap studs.

if that doesnt seem to be the problem, check your ignition timing. it maybe to advanced for cranking? take the sparkplug leads off and crank it.

just my 2c worth

cheers

[finemk1]

ok found another problem, no spark!! hahahaha yesterday i had spark but not today.....i traced back to the starter coil, its an old oil one and looks like a POS so decided to get a new one, , looked at the bosch gt40rt, but apperently these are no good for the KR using electronic ignition setup,
screw this!! basically i want a new starter coil and cant find one, what are you guys using in your 16v's?? i am using an ignition module to
im guessing i could use a mk3 coil or similar

oh and is there an easy replacement KR distributer, ive seen some neat ones going around where the lead plugs are on top not the side, ,any body know of these cuz mine is old and crook and probably part of the problem

guide me people please......

here are some pics, engine bay is practically at the finished stage and ive found my brake problem!! its the fluid tank, its just crap and old and leaks air but perfect design cuz its off centred on the list to replace. my alternator sits funny cuz my bracket welding is crook and not straight, will have to have another crack at that too.

this weekend folks, or im not going back to work untill im driving my golf

http://xs306.xs.to/xs306/06375/DVC00755.JPG (http://xs.to)http://xs306.xs.to/xs306/06375/DVC00756.JPG (http://xs.to)

http://xs306.xs.to/xs306/06375/DVC00757.JPG (http://xs.to)

[Golf Loon]

Looking good bro, wont be long now.

Coil is same as 8v GTi one.

Those dissy caps are for the Mk3 GTI 16v or cuprasport Ibiza.

Glad your brake booster is ok.

Keep us posted :)

[finemk1]

hahaha thats your brake booster .. ill put mine back on and give yours back sometime in the distant future
i mean the MC bit

[finemk1]

hahahahahahhaha its going folks just thought id tell you hehehehehehehe hahahahahahah hehehehehehe waahahaha

man it sound sweet, bit lumpy and inconsistant but its a new donk!!!!

now ill book her in for a tune and still gotta bleed the brakes.....

oh did i say its going hahahahahaa hehehehehehe waaahahaaa hehehehe now i got all day to clean her up and detail her

BYE

[Golf Loon]

Good Work Al, clearly you fond a coil.
Fancy a drive to Sydney for a cruise with us all next Sunday?

[finemk1]

haha yeah wasnt the coil i tested it with a multi and all the numbers seemed roughly correct so i pulled my dizzy apart and it nearly made me sick as to the state it was in, cleaned it and rewired 2 of the 3 broken wires...... and i installed kenworth truck cables thicker than my thumb as my new earth leads and one to the starter bolt like you said new battery terminals and it was crazy fast cranking and started 1st go, ive got the software for microtech to get it running better but is tricky the only bit i was brave to do was the ignition timing.. so i think its wise letting the pro's do the tuning, i can learn how to tune on another engine as i want this motor to actually survive hahahaha

its scary cuz i have been going over the car a few times to see if ive forgotton something befor i hit the tune shop, and i hadnt put my rear engine mount bolts (chassis side) on and tightened my bottom strut brace bolts either..... damn but all is ok now just drove it out of the garage!!!! ready for tomorrow, work can wait
thanks all for your help. bitchasssss

depend on when i can it it in the tune shop lune i will definatly be there with bells on

[finemk1]

need to fix a few things like door pin strip, and paint hahaha, my gears!! cuz 1st is reverse position, 3rd is 1st and 5th is 3rd, and my motor seems to be on a bit of a lean which is not good as the gearbox is hitting the bottom strut brace, so ill be fixing a lot of things tomoz, but hopefully evrey thing is ready for this cruize on the weekend, be a good time to run it in..


this is my remidy for taking out the rain tray, will get fresh air and not the smoky engine fumes, yet to screw it together and seal it off, should be buet
http://xs106.xs.to/xs106/06370/DVC00764.JPG.xs.jpg (http://xs.to/xs.php?h=xs106&d=06370&f=DVC00764.JPG)

previous leaking air sensor.. not any more
http://xs106.xs.to/xs106/06370/DVC00766.JPG.xs.jpg (http://xs.to/xs.php?h=xs106&d=06370&f=DVC00766.JPG)

fuel rail
http://xs306.xs.to/xs306/06370/DVC00763.JPG.xs.jpg (http://xs.to/xs.php?h=xs306&d=06370&f=DVC00763.JPG)

looks like a track basher cuz of my past neglect which i sorta regret now it was mint when i got it
http://xs306.xs.to/xs306/06370/DVC00761.JPG.xs.jpg (http://xs.to/xs.php?h=xs306&d=06370&f=DVC00761.JPG)

[finemk1]

well hit the tune shop today he pluged the laptop in and told me he was doing a roling road tune because the dyno was rooted, so i didnt get to video tape it was not very happy .... butwas happy when he said it will only take about 20mins to do.... but when he pulled back into the shop 20mins later...i wasnt so happy, water was pissing out he said "its tuned but you may need to have a look at that leak" holy crap man hope my head gasket hasnt gone to,,,, i knew the radiator was old but this just confirmed it....... it was cracked all over the place, did a compression test on the engine and all was fine, thank god!!!
so its definatly time to get rid of the mk1 raditor and get a proper custom made one, he quoted me at $700. thought id shop around first or look at a mk2 reco........

used most of my sick days at work up so a few more weeks befor im able to join you on a sydney cruise... head down bum up and do some overtime, ,need bling bling