Rear view camera for tiguan - Step by step process now posted
Ok guys, it's 11.30pm on a Saturday night and just finished installing rear view camera on my my12 tiguan. Word of warning, if you own a similar tiguan, do not even consider buying the pop out badge reverse camera, the cutout for the vw badge on the door hatch as seen from outside the car is covered up by a second sheet metal inside. The second sheet metal is tight up against the rear of the vw badge. Unless you want to cutout your own opening, I suggest you get the camera integrated into the handle.
Anyway I took some photos of the hatch with all trims to the hatch door removed and will post them up in next few days along with some tips which I found handy.
Finally got around to writing this up. Been using the RNS and rear view camera for over a month now and is doing a brilliant job.
Equipment required:
1. OEM reverse camera handle intergrated – Ebay, seller carsequipment2011 – approx. $320 US plus $25 US postage, sent from Poland.
2. Wire tappers – **** smith electronics or Super cheap Auto
3. 4mm electrical wire – 3 metre lenght
4. Soldering equipment
5. Electrical tape
6. Wire
I installed my own head unit as well. Really easy and plenty of threads on this. Bought from Ebay, Seller Daiman69, sent from Ireland
Note: I didn’t disconnect the battery in this install, but I suggest you take you own precautions. Main reason I left car connect war to enable for me to test wires with my multimeter.
Once you have your head unit installed ands working you can start with the rear view camera.
A note on the vagcom. Ensure you have the vagcom working with your computer before you get started with the rear view camera. You will need to install the software and also the vagcom cable hardware. When you plug your vagcom into the usb, your pc will detect a new hardware, and ask if you would like to install it, which you will click yes. I tried to install it on two on my laptops with windows 7 operating system, but didn’t work. Luckily had an old laptop with xp still on it. Worked a treat.
Removal of trim. Please be aware you must follow this order of removal, otherwise you may damage the trims.
Step 1:
Open rear boot hatch and begin with the removal of the top trim. Place fingers between the glass and top trim and pull out . There are four clips, so run your fingers along the entire length and unclip all. You will need to be careful, but forceful.
Next there are four more clips on the other side of this trip, which you will need to pull downwards to remove.
Step 2:
Remove the side trims . Start at the top and pull downwards to remove the top clip, then move around the 90 degree bend and pull sideways to remove the second clip. Make your way south and pull sideways for the third clip. Then slide upwards to remove the trim. The trim has a couple of pieces pertruding which links into the bottom large trim.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru.../backlid-1.jpg
Step 3:
Remove the bottom large panel trim. There are a number trims all round which you will just need to make your way round and remove them.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...IMG_0600-1.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...ackpanel-1.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...ormiddle-1.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...Backdoor-1.jpg
Step 4:
Begin by running you cable from the front head unit to the rear. You can have about 5-10cm of the cable sticking out of the head unit opening for ease of connecting to your head unit later, theres enough length in the cable for this. I ran my cable through the drivers side and you can mange to tuck the cable under the door sill trims quiet easily right to the back. Theres only one tricky area, at the base of the rear seat you are going to have to remove a bolt with a wrench to loosen the trim piece so you get the cable under and through. Run the cable throught and to the side panel of the boot. At this point you need to stop.
Step 4
By this time you should have the hatch panel to the side of the boot area taken off . You should have the rvc cable run through the hatch opening. Put a torch in and look down the opening, you will see right at the bottom, three electrical cables, brown, and two blue. Brown is the negative, one of the blue cables will be your reverse light trigger. This is where you will need your multimeter to test which of those two are the reverse trigger. Put the car into reverse and test which of the two wire get current running through it and mark it with some tape.
Step 5
Run a cable separate from this hatch area where your reverse trigger wire is and up with the rvc cable up the trim to the top car hatch door. The best place to run the cable is behind the weather seal gaskets. Lift the seals and push the cables in and make you way up the door.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru.../03/boot-1.jpg
Step 6
You will need to remove rear ceiling trim to get access to the rubber hose connecting to the boot hatch door. As stated on all diy threads, you will need to remove the rubber hose to be able to get the cable throught he hose, otherwise its impossible. The coat hanger trick works great. I had only to remove the hatch door side of the hose to run the cable throught. The other this you will need to do is to cut the clip off the red/black/yellow wire, otherwise it wont pass through, and take off the blue cover over the rvc av end
Step 7
All the hard work has been done and by this time you should have the rvc cable and the additional cable you ran up. At this time it’s a good time wire every thing up before you finish up tidying the wires up. Now reconnect the clip to the end of the wire you cut off. Use solder to get a proper connection and tape it up.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...03/cable-1.jpg
Step 8
You will have a red and black wire at the head unit end of the rvc cable. Obviously being positive and negative. I simply connected these to the wire loom of the head unit. If you look at the top of the rns-510 it should have a wiring diagram, connect the black to the negative (shown as the negative symbol) this will be the thick brown wire and the red to the + ‘safe’. I just used wire taps. Now grab the multimeter and test that your getting current running at the boot end.
Step 9
Now connect the additional wire to the yellow wire. Then go the little hatch space where you identified the reverse trigget wire and connect the additional cable to the reverse wire. Test the other end with the multimeter and check that you have current running thought it when the reverese light are on.
Step 10
When all the wiring is done and tested. Tody up the wiring by taping or cable tie them to the existing wires. The boot handle bolts can be accessed by a no 10 (from memory) wrench with an extended handle . take off both. Go the other side of the handle and with a flat head screw driver and pry the handle out. Shouldn’t be too hard, just been held in via some small clips. Now unclip the wire and with the new handle clip it back in along with the rvs cable and wires. Push the handle back in, and go back to the inside and install bolt back in. Tip – use a magnatised head otherwise the screw will fall off and youll have to fish it back out. If you wrench isn’t magnatise, use a bit of double site tape.
Step 11.
Vagcom the car coding to enable the reverse camera and reset the head unit (two buttons left of the cd slot and the star button on right side of cd slot, depress all together for a few seconds and should reset)
Now put car in reverse and test. Caution, door hatch must be closed otherwise the reverse camera wont be activated.
I hope this all makes sense and is of some use and please pm me if you need specific information or clarifications.
