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Thread: Rear view camera for tiguan - install completed

  1. #1
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    Rear view camera for tiguan - Step by step process now posted

    Ok guys, it's 11.30pm on a Saturday night and just finished installing rear view camera on my my12 tiguan. Word of warning, if you own a similar tiguan, do not even consider buying the pop out badge reverse camera, the cutout for the vw badge on the door hatch as seen from outside the car is covered up by a second sheet metal inside. The second sheet metal is tight up against the rear of the vw badge. Unless you want to cutout your own opening, I suggest you get the camera integrated into the handle.
    Anyway I took some photos of the hatch with all trims to the hatch door removed and will post them up in next few days along with some tips which I found handy.

    Finally got around to writing this up. Been using the RNS and rear view camera for over a month now and is doing a brilliant job.

    Equipment required:
    1. OEM reverse camera handle intergrated – Ebay, seller carsequipment2011 – approx. $320 US plus $25 US postage, sent from Poland.
    2. Wire tappers – **** smith electronics or Super cheap Auto
    3. 4mm electrical wire – 3 metre lenght
    4. Soldering equipment
    5. Electrical tape
    6. Wire

    I installed my own head unit as well. Really easy and plenty of threads on this. Bought from Ebay, Seller Daiman69, sent from Ireland

    Note: I didn’t disconnect the battery in this install, but I suggest you take you own precautions. Main reason I left car connect war to enable for me to test wires with my multimeter.

    Once you have your head unit installed ands working you can start with the rear view camera.
    A note on the vagcom. Ensure you have the vagcom working with your computer before you get started with the rear view camera. You will need to install the software and also the vagcom cable hardware. When you plug your vagcom into the usb, your pc will detect a new hardware, and ask if you would like to install it, which you will click yes. I tried to install it on two on my laptops with windows 7 operating system, but didn’t work. Luckily had an old laptop with xp still on it. Worked a treat.

    Removal of trim. Please be aware you must follow this order of removal, otherwise you may damage the trims.

    Step 1:
    Open rear boot hatch and begin with the removal of the top trim. Place fingers between the glass and top trim and pull out . There are four clips, so run your fingers along the entire length and unclip all. You will need to be careful, but forceful.
    Next there are four more clips on the other side of this trip, which you will need to pull downwards to remove.

    Step 2:
    Remove the side trims . Start at the top and pull downwards to remove the top clip, then move around the 90 degree bend and pull sideways to remove the second clip. Make your way south and pull sideways for the third clip. Then slide upwards to remove the trim. The trim has a couple of pieces pertruding which links into the bottom large trim.



    Step 3:
    Remove the bottom large panel trim. There are a number trims all round which you will just need to make your way round and remove them.









    Step 4:
    Begin by running you cable from the front head unit to the rear. You can have about 5-10cm of the cable sticking out of the head unit opening for ease of connecting to your head unit later, theres enough length in the cable for this. I ran my cable through the drivers side and you can mange to tuck the cable under the door sill trims quiet easily right to the back. Theres only one tricky area, at the base of the rear seat you are going to have to remove a bolt with a wrench to loosen the trim piece so you get the cable under and through. Run the cable throught and to the side panel of the boot. At this point you need to stop.


    Step 4
    By this time you should have the hatch panel to the side of the boot area taken off . You should have the rvc cable run through the hatch opening. Put a torch in and look down the opening, you will see right at the bottom, three electrical cables, brown, and two blue. Brown is the negative, one of the blue cables will be your reverse light trigger. This is where you will need your multimeter to test which of those two are the reverse trigger. Put the car into reverse and test which of the two wire get current running through it and mark it with some tape.

    Step 5
    Run a cable separate from this hatch area where your reverse trigger wire is and up with the rvc cable up the trim to the top car hatch door. The best place to run the cable is behind the weather seal gaskets. Lift the seals and push the cables in and make you way up the door.



    Step 6
    You will need to remove rear ceiling trim to get access to the rubber hose connecting to the boot hatch door. As stated on all diy threads, you will need to remove the rubber hose to be able to get the cable throught he hose, otherwise its impossible. The coat hanger trick works great. I had only to remove the hatch door side of the hose to run the cable throught. The other this you will need to do is to cut the clip off the red/black/yellow wire, otherwise it wont pass through, and take off the blue cover over the rvc av end

    Step 7
    All the hard work has been done and by this time you should have the rvc cable and the additional cable you ran up. At this time it’s a good time wire every thing up before you finish up tidying the wires up. Now reconnect the clip to the end of the wire you cut off. Use solder to get a proper connection and tape it up.



    Step 8
    You will have a red and black wire at the head unit end of the rvc cable. Obviously being positive and negative. I simply connected these to the wire loom of the head unit. If you look at the top of the rns-510 it should have a wiring diagram, connect the black to the negative (shown as the negative symbol) this will be the thick brown wire and the red to the + ‘safe’. I just used wire taps. Now grab the multimeter and test that your getting current running at the boot end.

    Step 9
    Now connect the additional wire to the yellow wire. Then go the little hatch space where you identified the reverse trigget wire and connect the additional cable to the reverse wire. Test the other end with the multimeter and check that you have current running thought it when the reverese light are on.

    Step 10
    When all the wiring is done and tested. Tody up the wiring by taping or cable tie them to the existing wires. The boot handle bolts can be accessed by a no 10 (from memory) wrench with an extended handle . take off both. Go the other side of the handle and with a flat head screw driver and pry the handle out. Shouldn’t be too hard, just been held in via some small clips. Now unclip the wire and with the new handle clip it back in along with the rvs cable and wires. Push the handle back in, and go back to the inside and install bolt back in. Tip – use a magnatised head otherwise the screw will fall off and youll have to fish it back out. If you wrench isn’t magnatise, use a bit of double site tape.

    Step 11.
    Vagcom the car coding to enable the reverse camera and reset the head unit (two buttons left of the cd slot and the star button on right side of cd slot, depress all together for a few seconds and should reset)
    Now put car in reverse and test. Caution, door hatch must be closed otherwise the reverse camera wont be activated.

    I hope this all makes sense and is of some use and please pm me if you need specific information or clarifications.
    Last edited by tigger73; 05-05-2015 at 09:32 PM.

  2. #2
    I look forward for your tutorial.. Did you have any issue integrating this with the bluetooth or parking assist? This would probably my next mod once I received 132tsi pacific.

  3. #3
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    Nov 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by CADman View Post
    Ok guys, it's 11.30pm on a Saturday night and just finished installing rear view camera on my my12 tiguan. Word of warning, if you own a similar tiguan, do not even consider buying the pop out badge reverse camera, the cutout for the vw badge on the door hatch as seen from outside the car is covered up by a second sheet metal inside. The second sheet metal is tight up against the rear of the vw badge. Unless you want to cutout your own opening, I suggest you get the camera integrated into the handle.
    Anyway I took some photos of the hatch with all trims to the hatch door removed and will post them up in next few days along with some tips which I found handy.
    I am also looking forward to this and where you sourced the bits from

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Mackay QLD
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    Very keen to hear & see how you did this particularly the wiring connections of the red & yellow wires to power activate the camera. Looking at buying an OEM kit off flea bay for +/-$330 from a seller in the Czech republic
    Last edited by Bambazonke; 01-04-2012 at 06:30 PM.

  5. #5
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    Hi Cadman I got an OEM RVC in the handle kit this past week? Installed the unit today in my Tiguan and have no picture. It is wired up to a new RCD 510 with the 26 pin camera plug. Have checked all the connections voltage etc still nothing. I have read from several eBay sellers I need to have the car coded by a dealer as I have no VAGcom cable or software to enable the RVC did you have to do the same?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bambazonke View Post
    Hi Cadman I got an OEM RVC in the handle kit this past week? Installed the unit today in my Tiguan and have no picture. It is wired up to a new RCD 510 with the 26 pin camera plug. Have checked all the connections voltage etc still nothing. I have read from several eBay sellers I need to have the car coded by a dealer as I have no VAGcom cable or software to enable the RVC did you have to do the same?
    HI Bamba, definately have to have the VAGCOM done to it, otherwise wont work. When I connected my laptop to the car and downloaded the cars information, it showed that the rear view camera little tick box was left unchecked. Just a matter of checking it, save and reboot the head unit and it should work. Good luck. I will be posting my how to very soon, just been very busy with work. Hope that helped.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Location
    Melbourne
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    Can anyone post a wiring diagram? Want to see if mine is correct. Yellow- positive reverse light, Black- Negative, Red- Positive?
    Regards

  8. #8
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    Hi Suffolk your assumptions are correct, I took my main power supply off the rear cigarette lighter socket in the boot. The wire was white with black stripe I think. The other wire at the socket is brown for earth.
    The two wires you need to be careful with is the reverse wires which are located on the RHS of the boot behind the side storage flap. There are 3 wires one brown and two blue with black stripes. One wire supplies power to the reverse lights and the one to tap into for the RVC. The other supplies a signal back to the CANbus re the status of the lights.

    Be prepared to have sore fingers prying off the panels and be very patient in taking them off and back on and follow CADman's advice with respect to the order of removing them and putting them back as I found out to my expense as I took a couple of days doing mine and forgot the order of removal

  9. #9
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    Oct 2010
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    Melbourne
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    Hi Bambazonke, i also tried taking power from cigarette lighter but i had battery drain problem, had to recharge car battery, also someone else had the same problem.

    Please advise me if diagram supplied is correct.

    Regards Suffolk



    Please note: You will have to do vag-com coding:Connect to controller 37 Navigation and in long coding under Byte 3 select Bit 6.
    Last edited by Suffolk; 17-04-2012 at 07:55 PM.
    MY10 Tiguan 125TSI /APR Stage 2

  10. #10
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    Hi Suffolk Can't understand that as there is only power from the cigarette lighter socket to the RVC when the car is running so there should be no drain from this source as once the keys are removed from the ignition. My RVC has been installed and wired up but not activated since sat pm and the wife has had no issues either on sun, yesterday or today but I will monitor it and check it again with a multimeter when I eventually get it activated. Did you connect to the correct blue/black wire trigger wire as the wrong wire leads back to the CANbus where there could be a leakage. The only way to check for the correct wire is to use a test bulb or multimeter and check for 12v when the reverse lights have been activated Rgds B
    Last edited by Bambazonke; 17-04-2012 at 09:52 PM.

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