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Thread: Oil Temperature - New Car

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    Berwick, Vic
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    25

    Highest I've seen on my R is 95c, usually sits around 84-88c. You guys must really be flogging it or the R just dissipates the heat faster.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boldy View Post
    or the R just dissipates the heat faster.
    The R's oil temp range is certainly different to the GTI and many of the other VW's. Mine sits in the 84 to 88 range as well. Whilst it can certainly get over 100, you'd be pushing things if you're on the public roads!

  3. #23
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    Feb 2010
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    South Perth, WA
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    My R is similar 88-93c is average for most of my drives and this is in WA with ambient temps in Summer around 38c +

    Is the Mk VI GTI motor chain driven? Would this make it warmer?
    WLF127

  4. #24
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    Nov 2011
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    Brisbane
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    Doesn't the R have a seperate air based oil cooler though? as the gti has the oil to water cooler?

  5. #25
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    Feb 2010
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    South Perth, WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by warped_foobie View Post
    Doesn't the R have a seperate air based oil cooler though? as the gti has the oil to water cooler?
    Some discussion here - consensus is that it's an additional radiator which acts as a DSG oil cooler.

    http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/foru...46381-388.html
    WLF127

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    Gosford Central Coast NSW
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    Cant help thinking if you guys didnt have oil temp displayed in your MFD you would never have worried about this at all!
    '07 Touareg V6 TDI with air suspension
    '98 Mk3 Cabriolet 2.0 8V
    '99 A4 Quattro 1.8T

  7. #27
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    Jul 2011
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    Slacks Creek QLD
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    easiest thing to do is untick box for 'OIL'
    90 TSI 1.4T

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Sydney
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    1,605
    Quote Originally Posted by gldgti View Post
    Cant help thinking if you guys didnt have oil temp displayed in your MFD you would never have worried about this at all!
    Precisely one of the reasons why many manufacturers stopped putting oil temperature gauges in vehicles (or at least not make this sort of info easily accessible to Joe Public).

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    759
    Mine generally runs around 100-104 (worked Mk5 Pirelli), but I've had it up to 120-130 on track days.

    In terms of break in, give it plenty of welly but don't redline the poor thing constantly. Break ins should be hard (certainly not babied).

    I gave mine a reasonably good flogging straight away (obviously let it cool down before I shut it off), and the motor is smooth and runs like stink now.

    Some people really worry about the turbos, but it's also important to understand the turbos have 2 coolant lines - both oil and water. The water pumps continue to run for a few mins after the car's turned off - which is why a turbo timer isn't needed. That begin said, the oil DOES get shut off when you turn off your engine, so it's a good idea to let it idle for a min or two, especially if you've just been racing/caning it. Similar deal with your brakes - don't stop the car and let it sit when they're red hot, let them cool down by driving slowly before you stop your car..

    This is an age old debate which has little evidence to the downside (i.e. flogging has not seen broken engines that I recall). It's not like the good old days. Prior to the late 80s, engines weren't built with the same precision as they are now. The whole 'break in' thing is a throw back from then.

    The main reason manufacturers recommend a break in, is so you can bed in all the other components (brakes etc), and if there is a manufacturing defect it's best to locate it before you put the engine under full load...

    I wouldn't worry about it. Just don't abuse it (i.e. redline then shut it off straight away), and you'll be good to go.
    Last edited by kryten2001; 12-01-2012 at 10:50 AM.

  10. #30

    How to redact my profile

    Revolutionary work you have here.

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