Tigger73's Scirocco R

[Sharkie]

My bad Good to know!

[tigger73]

Just had a stage 3 DSG tune installed. Shifting is a lot quicker. So much so that the DSG farts are almost completely gone

[Olle]

Bummer about the farts, what else has the tune fixed?

Also, does it make S mode more compliant and not with bull**** high rev gear changes? (Not that this is a thing, just not always the best when you're driving in traffic )

I'm pretty n00b when it comes to all the DSG stuff - my past two cars were either normal auto or manual.

[tigger73]

Bummer about the farts, what else has the tune fixed?

Also, does it make S mode more compliant and not with bull**** high rev gear changes? (Not that this is a thing, just not always the best when you're driving in traffic )

I'm pretty n00b when it comes to all the DSG stuff - my past two cars were either normal auto or manual.

DSG Tuning

DSG is more complex than ecu tuning.

DSG tuning is important to raise clamp force and line pressures, but there's not many tuners actually doing it.

Many tuners advertise different stages in DSG tunes. This is what is in the RD Technik Stage 3 file:


First of all every file is custom tuned so the RDT "Stage 3" is whatever it needs to be really.

Whilst this level of tuning was originally developed for the stage 3, 4, 5 ECU/Engine packages needing to cope with massive turbos and stupid levels of torque, RDT offer it for any level of modification, including the stock turbo.

The stage 3 dsg tune will 'work' on a stage 1 or 2 car because its custom written to account for alterations to suit. For example on a stage 3/4/5 car, a 'normal' S mode isnt' going to cut it if your boost isn't hitting until 4500rpm. So for RDT-3 the S mode has been altered to make sure it's always on the peak power band on whatever turbo application it's being written for. So a massive GTX would be different to a smaller newer EFR, or even a 28 series garret spooling hard mid 3000rpm is much different to a big old GTx. So they'll see where the turbo's capabilities lay before thinking about shift point and patterns and will be adjusted accordingly whether it's the stock ko4 or something else.

Other alterations:

Torque limiters (note the 's') - are off on stage 3.

Clamp force/Line pressure and the many associated maps which must be altered if you're to increase line pressure effectively and safely. Line pressure equates to max pressure, and bar per clutch pack, and it's also adjusted by torque request, so it's not just a blanket increase. Line pressure amount will depend on what level of power/torque/LC set points/etc.

RPM main limit and Rpm limits per mode, D, S, M (usually for stock turbo RDT3 will be 6700 D, 7000 S, 7200 M) But if it's a built motor and can safely rev higher then of course it'll get set higher.

Proper Manual Mode, including dissabling the kickdown switch in M mode in each gear, although often it's left active in 6th gear so if you're cruising around and boot it and forget you're in M, and it's off boost, then it'll kickdown and fly...

Shift patterns

The progression is made more linear and at the same time more responsive.

D is made more aggressive - not much, as it needs to be drivable similar to stock around town. So it is more willing to kick down especially in the lower gears, and at higher rpm and throttle inputs for example. If you go too low it'll get annoying when you want to cruise around and it's constantly kicking down on light throttle.

S mode - two main choices/styles really - Either S mode is made more accessible and less manic, so you can drive it more like a more aggressive D mode (some people say S mode is too aggressive stock) or it is made even more mental. And if it's a big turbo - as above, it will be altered so it matches the turbo's capabilities perfectly, so on a laggy big turbo, it doesn't keep dropping off boost.

So that's up shifts and downshifts altered per mode...

Other Features/Options

Launch control: Twin stage LC - again depends what you're after but typically it's set to 3500 and 4500rpm

Anti lag LC and massive flames out the back if people want to get silly at the drag strip.

And of course shift speed. Again - far more complex than just increasing shift speed. There are many, many maps relating to shift speed and under what condition. RDT alter them in painstaking detail and generally keep the farts at low rpm and low throttle inputs, and make the shifts crazy fast in S and M mode at high throttle inputs for the fastest acceleration possible. But done correctly it is also smooth as silk and never jolty.

One of the main differences between RDT and many of the competitors who are likely using generic editing software is they 'think' they are altering shift speed and actually they've altered one map. When there are more like 50 maps relating to it to do it properly.

RDT drag race their TTS (stage 3, 530hp) and Golf R (stage 5) and the level of testing they've done is monumental. And it's meant over the years they've honed and honed their level of understanding and access to all the maps because it's a very special interest of theirs.

The above is example assuming it is for a 4wd 'R'.

For fwd stuff (GTI/Scirocco/etc) the LC is set lower for example. And for TDI's a huge amount of R&D was done on shift patterns and points and loading for example. TDI DSG tuning is significantly different and these are tuned to suit also.

[levendi001]

Subscribed


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tigger73]

Had first minor service done on the weekend. While it was getting serviced I had Miro turn off the headlight washers to stop the mess all over the front of the car.

Also went for a cruise through the hills with a few of the other VWW guys:





Still on the list is to disable the soundaktor as it's creating a vibration in the dash under load.

[Transporter]

Still on the list is to disable the soundaktor as it's creating a vibration in the dash under load.

If you can see the connector, then just unplug it. The worst can happen, it will give us an error with the module address.

Great shots, btw.

[tigger73]

If you can see the connector, then just unplug it. The worst can happen, it will give us an error with the module address.

I did pull off the rain tray quickly before to have a look but I think I'm going to have to do a bit more dis-assembly.

[tigger73]

Today I removed the Soundaktor. It's been causing the dash to vibrate and when I make phone calls in the car all the other person can hear is artificial engine noise. So it's now quiet in the cabin and I can actually hear the real engine (not just the fake one)

first off remove the rubber seal and rain tray from the passenger side:



This is the devil that you're looking for. There's a 10mm nut that holds it on which you'll need a socket to undo (no room to get a spanner onto it - I tried and failed):



Once removed I just zip tied the connector and wire back onto the hole that the Soundaktor was attached to. Keep things tidy and stop the cable/connector from causing any more annoying rattles...

[tigger73]

The second thing I did today was finish off the full size spare / new boot floor install.

Made a frame:



Attached a base for the floor:



I glued some automotive carpet onto the plywood that I'd previously cut out and installed this on top. I had to cut the plywood base in 2 and fold it to fit it in.