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Thread: Front camber advice

  1. #11
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    Thanks for all the replies. I am actually going to put the whole swap on hold for the meantime.

    The dorbritz clamps was a great find. I think the company has folded but other companies still fabricate such parts. They are just so expensive for what they are! Easily $200 landed. Plus they only fit 2 specific air struts.

    For the meantime I'm going to reattach the end links for my current sway. I think the lack of fsb and it's delayed behaviour on my current springs is possibly dangerous in a quick swerve situation.

    The cheapest solution at the moment is obviously to fit nothing. But otherwise it would be to find TT control arms with the nubs to fit the stock mk4 sway. See pic..

    But the TT gear is just so superior, I might even consider replacing my front struts with the TT struts so I can run the TT sway bar. I just wish I thought of this when I first bought these struts.

    Last edited by Sirocco20348; 26-08-2017 at 02:14 PM.

  2. #12
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    Front camber advice-nofarb-jpgall his pics had gone but I managed to find this one which is a pic of his car with the bar disconnected. It was pretty flat before that. 3 wheeling is great if the inside rear is skimming the deck but my car has done this in the past too and it puts too much loading on the outside front that goes well into positive camber if you're only starting with <2 degrees and/or don't have good camber gain in the hub (which polo's don't).

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by sambb View Post
    ...all his pics had gone but I managed to find this one
    Lol that is insane, Stock springs?

    I found out that my front springs are 250lbs. Apparently higher spring weight needed to be requested.

    I'll wait until I have a front sway bar situation sorted out.
    Last edited by Sirocco20348; 28-08-2017 at 08:24 AM.

  4. #14
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    Can't recall what springs he had, definitely not soft/stock. It steadily morphed into a very focused track car and he'd have had decent track worthy springs in there because I found this pic pretty late in his build thread. I remember thinking the same thing because the before and after was pretty dramatic. If you're going to stick with 250's I don't know if I'd run bar-less. Thing is, once the inside rear is off the deck it doesn't matter anymore if you have a standard rear beam, rear beam with 24mm bar or a zero torsion beam - it is then up to the fronts to be able to support all the roll force being put through the car. You can see he's got a lot of rear roll stiffness. I can tell you polo rear beams are floppy things and usually there's a lot of droop in the inside rear before it lifts off even with say a 20mm rear bar. His inside rear has barely dropped at all suggesting that he's got a lot of rear roll stiffness. The amount of compression on his outside front would be pretty extreme probably nearly peeling the tyre off the rim and for sure it'd hit the stops if he went over an undulation mid corner like that and then probably spit you off the road.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by sambb View Post
    Can't recall what springs he had, definitely not soft/stock. It steadily morphed into a very focused track car and he'd have had decent track worthy springs in there because I found this pic pretty late in his build thread. I remember thinking the same thing because the before and after was pretty dramatic. If you're going to stick with 250's I don't know if I'd run bar-less. Thing is, once the inside rear is off the deck it doesn't matter anymore if you have a standard rear beam, rear beam with 24mm bar or a zero torsion beam - it is then up to the fronts to be able to support all the roll force being put through the car. You can see he's got a lot of rear roll stiffness. I can tell you polo rear beams are floppy things and usually there's a lot of droop in the inside rear before it lifts off even with say a 20mm rear bar. His inside rear has barely dropped at all suggesting that he's got a lot of rear roll stiffness. The amount of compression on his outside front would be pretty extreme probably nearly peeling the tyre off the rim and for sure it'd hit the stops if he went over an undulation mid corner like that and then probably spit you off the road.
    Thanks, I really appreciate all your replies. After the above conversation, I am definitely going to retain a front sway bar.

    I've had a number of people tell me that I can have the sway bar tabs welded onto the struts. I am assuming I have have to remove the gas strut from its housing before actually commencing the welding?

    How Shocks Work - Access Bilstein strut internal bump stop (3/7), v2.30 - YouTube

    Regardless I'll continue with the Audi TT transplant on the 12th with the tt sway bar installed without the end links and then I'll sort out the struts.

    I'm looking forward to going back out to Morgan Park with the new setup.

  6. #16
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    Cool. I'll be really interested to see how the TT conversion goes so I'll be checking in. Do you have a build thread or anything to keep an eye on or is here the place.

  7. #17
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    Wow it's been almost a year since the last post. I haven't completed the install yet, as life has got in the way etc..

    But today I chanced upon a set of Audi TT control arms with the little extra bit of metal to drill into. So hard to find, but I can now keep my original shine suspension.

    I'm expecting my control Arm angle to be similar to this. Hopefully installed over the next few weeks.

    Sent from my LG-H870DS using Tapatalk

  8. #18
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    Getting that control arm closer to level and the improved control over alignment settings made a huge difference in my car even without the sway bar. You'll enjoy it.

  9. #19
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    Wow.. huge surprise when I opened the box today!!!

    Can anyone else notice why I'm super surprised??

    ...
    ..
    .


    These are some rare pre-recall Audi TT Control Arms. You can tell from the size of the small bushing.

    They were recalled because of a number of deaths that happened on the autobahn in Germany when people attempted high speed lane changes. The tighter setup would induce unexpected oversteer and most people were not experienced enough to recover it, resulting in massive crashes.

    Audi Offers TT Fix After 5 Deaths - The New York Times

    I also noticed that the other big rubber Bush is not solid like in the post recall control Arm.

    I never expected to find a set in Australia...

    Sent from my LG-H870DS using Tapatalk

  10. #20
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    That's interesting. I read a piece by a guy in the **** Shine camp talking about the Mk1 TT issues and it was saying that it was the camber gain properties of the hub that was at fault. ie its positioning of the pivots. The story said that the hub design was too good resulting in excellent camber gain properties ie it wouldn't loose camber relative to roll angle and go into factory dictated understeer beyond 8/10ths. It was actually maintaining its static camber angles throughout roll and basically getting to the point where it would keep holding in and gripping until the tyres just let go. The inexperienced driver could'nt read that this was about to happen and lost it. However your story says that an ex-rally guy died so who knows or was he just pushing big time? I vaguely remember that the control arms were changed too but I'm not sure. So if you got pre recall ones I would love to see what angles they produce for caster and camber and what kind of track they produce.

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