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Thread: MkVII Brakes (Pads, Rotors and Calipers) - Discussion and Questions

  1. #31

    Quote Originally Posted by agentthumb View Post
    If you have a C clamp big enough, you can make it work

    It's probably as you said, the rotors were probably worn equally until one of the pad wore out first. Once it's metal on metal, it doesn't take long!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Sorry mate, one more thing, will i really need a syringe to suck out some fluid or will it be okay just to push the piston back? Sorry if its a dumb question as this is the first time doing it myself

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Golf7Tdi View Post
    Sorry mate, one more thing, will i really need a syringe to suck out some fluid or will it be okay just to push the piston back? Sorry if its a dumb question as this is the first time doing it myself
    No such thing as a stupid question. Only stupid assumptions

    You don't have to have it. Depends on what your mechanic has done between services. When the cars roll off the factory floor, the brake fluid is filled to the full line with new brake pads.

    As the pads wear over time, the pistons in the calliper moves further and further out to keep the pads in contact with the rotors. This leads to the fluids in the reservoir dropping below the "Max" line but should still be well above the "Min" line. Some mechanics leave it as is (which is what you are supposed to do), other's top it up.

    Topping it up creates a problem when you replace the pads. As the new pads will be thicker than your worn pads, you have to push the pistons back to their outer position to accept new pads. This forces brake fluid back up the line into the reservoir, which if topped up, will overfill. And it will leak everywhere (trust me, I learned the hard way )

    Best to have a syringe or something ready to remove the excess fluid when you are pushing on the pistons.

    Also, check to see if your brake fluid is currently near the "Max" line as an indication to see if your mechanic has topped up the fluid.


    If you decide to remove fluid, only remove what you need to. The last thing you want is for the level dropping below "Min" line, and air getting into the system.

    A note regarding the guide / slide bolts holding the calliper onto the car, they only require very little torque to do up. I wouldn't go past 30 Nm of torque. Don't over torque it as the bolt will easily strip.
    Last edited by agentthumb; 17-01-2017 at 12:54 PM.
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  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by agentthumb View Post
    No such thing as a stupid question. Only stupid assumptions

    You don't have to have it. Depends on what your mechanic has done between services. When the cars roll off the factory floor, the brake fluid is filled to the full line with new brake pads.

    As the pads wear over time, the pistons in the calliper moves further and further out to keep the pads in contact with the rotors. This leads to the fluids in the reservoir dropping below the "Max" line but should still be well above the "Min" line. Some mechanics leave it as is (which is what you are supposed to do), other's top it up.

    Topping it up creates a problem when you replace the pads. As the new pads will be thicker than your worn pads, you have to push the pistons back to their outer position to accept new pads. This forces brake fluid back up the line into the reservoir, which if topped up, will overfill. And it will leak everywhere (trust me, I learned the hard way )

    Best to have a syringe or something ready to remove the excess fluid when you are pushing on the pistons.

    Also, check to see if your brake fluid is currently near the "Max" line as an indication to see if your mechanic has topped up the fluid.


    If you decide to remove fluid, only remove what you need to. The last thing you want is for the level dropping below "Min" line, and air getting into the system.

    A note regarding the guide / slide bolts holding the calliper onto the car, they only require very little torque to do up. I wouldn't go past 30 Nm of torque. Don't over torque it as the bolt will easily strip.
    Thanks very much, ill post if i have any issues... seems pretty easy, ill just take my time and be carefull...

    Thank you!

  4. #34
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    One more thing to note, brake fluid attract moisture. So don't leave the lid to the reservoir open while you are changing the pads.
    Golf MK7 103TSI Highline Wagon | Limestone Grey | DAP2
    Golf MK7 110TDI Highline Hatchback | Tungsten Silver | DAP

  5. #35
    Thanks mate, got it done

    Not too hard after you know what your doing,

    Appreciate the help!

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Golf7Tdi View Post
    Thanks mate, got it done

    Not too hard after you know what your doing,

    Appreciate the help!
    No worries did you enjoy the "bed in" process?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Golf MK7 103TSI Highline Wagon | Limestone Grey | DAP2
    Golf MK7 110TDI Highline Hatchback | Tungsten Silver | DAP

  7. #37
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    Hi guys - I need new pads for a Mk7 GTI PP and looking at either the Remsa or EBC Redstuff pads. I am machining OEM rotors this time round.

    Any opinions on either of these pads ? I know the EBC Redstuff pads are ceramic but are supposed to still give good cold stopping performance - would like any advice on noise levels.

    I am in Brisbane and have only found Brakes Direct to supply.

  8. #38
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    If the discs are already lipped, I'd throw them away. By the time you machine the lip off, and skim the surface true again, they'll be pretty close to undersized. You get virtually zero tolerance with them, and Remsa pads will just trash them anyway.

    Can highly recommend ATE Ceramics, with ATE discs.

    You can get these from any one of 5 ATE Brake Centres around Brisbane.
    '07 Transporter 1.9 TDI
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  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Umai Naa!! View Post
    If the discs are already lipped, I'd throw them away. By the time you machine the lip off, and skim the surface true again, they'll be pretty close to undersized. You get virtually zero tolerance with them, and Remsa pads will just trash them anyway.

    Can highly recommend ATE Ceramics, with ATE discs.

    You can get these from any one of 5 ATE Brake Centres around Brisbane.
    Ok thanks - I'll see if I can find tolerance specs. The vehicle has done 20,000km. One track day (well... the driver) trashed the OEM pads.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Umai Naa!! View Post
    If the discs are already lipped, I'd throw them away. By the time you machine the lip off, and skim the surface true again, they'll be pretty close to undersized. You get virtually zero tolerance with them, and Remsa pads will just trash them anyway.

    Can highly recommend ATE Ceramics, with ATE discs.

    You can get these from any one of 5 ATE Brake Centres around Brisbane.
    Rang ATE direct as the service centres in Brisbane wouldn't sell parts.

    Front rotors: $205+GST each
    Pads: $243+ GST set

    Over budget ! Any other recommendations ?

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