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Thread: Golf mk7: Auto Start/Stop disable switch - who wants to help?

  1. #61
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    I have to apologize as I have not yet had a chance to install the S/S device. An impromptu night on the town Saturday night resulted in me having to leave my car at a mates house overnight and I was unable to retrieve it until late yesterday evening. The installation will happen this week, sooner rather than later
    2016 GTI Performance | Pure White | JB1 | Dog Bone | Full Tint | Stop/Start Delete | Avatar by sandwg

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattaus View Post
    I have to apologize as I have not yet had a chance to install the S/S device. An impromptu night on the town Saturday night resulted in me having to leave my car at a mates house overnight and I was unable to retrieve it until late yesterday evening. The installation will happen this week, sooner rather than later
    Matt: I got mine installed this afternoon. Pulling apart the centre console is a real PITA, so I spliced the wires into the 10 PIN connector and ran them to the "C" fuse box. I put the device in there instead of in the cavity next to the gear selector - much easier to get access when I need to change T1 and/or T2 (or do further mods on the design). Added a small write-up at the end of my post #53

    Works perfectly so far, but I reckon that T1 could be reduced to about 3 seconds - what do you think?
    Don
    Please don't PM to ask questions about coding, or vehicle repairs. The better place to deal with these matters is on-line, in the forum proper. That way you get the benefit of the expertise of the wider forum! Thank you.

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by DV52 View Post
    Matt: I got mine installed this afternoon. Pulling apart the centre console is a real PITA, so I spliced the wires into the 10 PIN connector and ran them to the "C" fuse box. I put the device in there instead of in the cavity next to the gear selector - much easier to get access when I need to change T1 and/or T2 (or do further mods on the design). Added a small write-up at the end of my post #53

    Works perfectly so far, but I reckon that T1 could be reduced to about 3 seconds - what do you think?
    Don
    Shorter is fine, but on reflection there is no harm in leaving it at around 5 seconds. The car will never turn the engine off that quickly after start, and a 5 second delay is about the time it would take most people to remember to manually turn it off. I'll probably just leave mine at 5 seconds unless I see a real need to reduce the time. That's my thought process anyway
    2016 GTI Performance | Pure White | JB1 | Dog Bone | Full Tint | Stop/Start Delete | Avatar by sandwg

  4. #64
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    Auto S/S Kill switch: Closed Loop Design

    This is the third in a series of designs for an Auto S/S Kill switch. A principal deficiency with my two former designs, is that they both based on an "open-loop" system. That is, the devices are unable to ascertain whether the SS disabling pulse has been successful: they send out one pulse only and they assume that the pulse has worked the first time.

    Whilst this assumption has not been a problem with the device that I have fitted to my car, a better approach is to design the S/S Kill switch based on what system-control folk call a "closed loop" system; that is, a device that is able to monitor whether the kill pulse has been successful and if not, a design that is able to send-out more pulses until SS is actually disabled.

    In this design, the S/S Kill switch looks-at the status of the VW SS LED that is mounted inside the SS disabling switch on the centre console. If this LED is illuminated, the SS Kill switch concludes that it has successfully performed its allocated function and it stops sending kill pulses. To cater for the possibility that the LED may be faulty, the new design also limits the total number of kill pulses to a maximum of 9. If it has not successfully disabled SS within these 9 pulses, the device stops operating. I've selected an odd-number for the maximum kill pulses because it leaves the SS facility disabled (an even-number would leave SS enabled)

    The design of the "closed-loop" device is based on a "baby" Arduino, called the ATTiny which is not as powerful as it's better known sibling - but it is perfectly suited to this application. Because the ATTiny requires a 5Volt supply, I've opted to use the Digispark (see picture below) which is a kind-of "shield" that allows the ATTiny to operate in the 12 volt environment of a motor vehicle (the Digispark also has a couple of on-board LEDs which were handy in developing the program for the Auto S/S Kill switch).


    ATTiny Program
    The "smarts" for the closed-loop device is the (simple) program listed below. To help in understanding the code, I have included the flow diagram.
    Code:
     //*Automatic Start Stop Kill Switch - Digispark Code by DV52*//
    
       int Digi_LED = 1;                 //Set P1 as LED on Digispark PCB.
       int Relay = 2;                    //Set P2 as the SS Relay driver
       int SS_LED = 3;                   //Set P3 as monitor for the SS LED on centre console
       
       int counter = 0;                  //Initialise SS_Kill_pulse counter
       int Kill_Max = 9;                  //Set Maximum number of SS_Kill_pulses
    
     void setup() {                      //Initialize P1 and P2 as an output and P3 as input.
    
        pinMode(Digi_LED, OUTPUT);       //Set P1  - Digispark LED
        pinMode(Relay, OUTPUT);          //Set P2 - SS Relay driver
        pinMode(SS_LED, INPUT);          //Set P3  - SS console LED monitor
        }
    
     void loop() {
         while (counter < Kill_Max)      //Test for maximum number of SS_Kill_pulses
         {           
         if (digitalRead(SS_LED) == HIGH) //Send SS_Kill_pulse if SS LED is NOT energised
         {
         digitalWrite(Digi_LED, HIGH);   //Turn-on Digispark LED
         digitalWrite(Relay, HIGH);      //Turn-on Relay - SS_Kill_pulse inititated
         delay(1000);                    //Wait one second
         digitalWrite(Digi_LED, LOW);    //Turn-off Digispark LED
         digitalWrite(Relay, LOW);       //Turn-off Relay
         delay(500);                     //Wait half second before next SS_Kill_pulse
         }   
         else
         {
         while (1) { }                   //SS disabled -send Digispark into endless loop             
         }
         counter++;                      //Increment SS_Kil_pulse counter
         }
         while (2) { }                   //Max SS_Kill_pulses exceeded - send Digispark into endless loop
         }                               //End
    Circuit Diagram
    The circuit diagram for the closed-loop device is shown below. I've included protection diodes on the opto-couplers for safety and I've shown two driver options (I've built both and they both work perfectly)

    Construction
    Construction of the device is straight forward - in my case, I mounted all the components for the input and output interfaces onto the track-side of a piece of "Vero board" (tip: solder-in the opto-couplers 1st). I then affixed the Digispark (once programmed) with double sided tape to the board-side of the Vero board and ran wires between the two as shown in the circuit diagram.

    EDIT: A note on wire size - as mattaus observed when he installed the first test unit (see 4th video in post#79), large gauge wire will be problematic when splicing the device into the existing wiring loom in the car. The required electrical current in any of the new device's wires is infinitesimal and therefore only small diameter wire is needed. Small gauge wire will make the splicing process easier - without affecting operation.

    The picture below shows details of the component layout for my vero-board construction.




    The pictures below show the completed device. The device was slipped into a piece of heat shrink tubing (not shown) after testing.
    Testing after construction
    I have programmed the LED on the Digispark as a visual test tool to verify the build, post-construction (see picture above). The Digispark LED is programmed to mimic the output stage. Once the device is built, its operation can be checked (before installation in the car) by connecting the +12V and Earth wires to a test-supply (like the ciggy-lighter, or a battery). The native bootloader in the Digispark enforces a mandatory 5 second delay before the program starts (which is perfect in this application). After applying power and waiting for this delay time, the LED should emit 9 pulses ( 1 sec on - 1/2 sec off). If the wire that is to be connected to PIN #7 of the centre console switch (see circuit diagram) is connected to the +12V test supply (before the 9 pulses are sent), the LED should extinguish - indicating that no more pulses will be sent. If both these tests are performed successfully, the device should be good-to-go!

    Not sure if there are many here that are familiar with Arduino protocols. If you are not familiar with how to program the ATTiny, I can do this for you. PM and we can discuss the logistics - perhaps you send me an un-programmed Digispark and in exchange, I send you a programmed Digispark)


    Don
    Last edited by DV52; 19-11-2015 at 09:26 AM.
    Please don't PM to ask questions about coding, or vehicle repairs. The better place to deal with these matters is on-line, in the forum proper. That way you get the benefit of the expertise of the wider forum! Thank you.

  5. #65
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    Not sure why my phone decided to delete my post...

    Anyway my plug appears to be ever so slightly different to AJWs even though our cars are near weeks apart on the factory line. Odd.

    The reason I bring it up is because I just cannot get the pins out. The spring depresses and the pin starts to slide out backwards but then stops. I can't get it to go any further and its not out far enough to solder to it. Any ideas?

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattaus View Post
    Not sure why my phone decided to delete my post...

    Anyway my plug appears to be ever so slightly different to AJWs even though our cars are near weeks apart on the factory line. Odd.

    The reason I bring it up is because I just cannot get the pins out. The spring depresses and the pin starts to slide out backwards but then stops. I can't get it to go any further and its not out far enough to solder to it. Any ideas?
    Matt: I had pretty-much the same problem with my 10 PIN connector. In frustration and after multiple expletives (this always helps - I find), I decided to just cut the wires, and splice the new wires into the loom. Cover with a heat-shrink tubing and it was all good!

    I agree that my method is not as elegant as AJW's efforts, but it did the job just fine!

    Don
    PS: Congratulations!!
    Please don't PM to ask questions about coding, or vehicle repairs. The better place to deal with these matters is on-line, in the forum proper. That way you get the benefit of the expertise of the wider forum! Thank you.

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by DV52 View Post
    Matt: I had pretty-much the same problem with my 10 PIN connector. In frustration and after multiple expletives (this always helps - I find), I decided to just cut the wires, and splice the new wires into the loom. Cover with a heat-shrink tubing and it was all good!

    I agree that my method is not as elegant as AJW's efforts, but it did the job just fine!

    Well I'm thinking I'll either just scrape the side of the wires and solder to that (and then wrap with electrical tape) or use a wire tap, if I can find ones small enough. For some reason I'm super worried about physically cutting the wires, even if it will provide the second cleanest solution. I'm hoping AJW jumps back in with some super secret way to get the pins out, although if you can't do it then it surely cannot be done lol.

    Quote Originally Posted by DV52 View Post
    PS: Congratulations!!
    If you're talking about what I think you're talking about then thanks, although it's been for over a year now! The planning is just ramping up to a stupid level all of a sudden. Time flies...
    2016 GTI Performance | Pure White | JB1 | Dog Bone | Full Tint | Stop/Start Delete | Avatar by sandwg

  8. #68
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    Matt: I've never been a big fan of using electrical tape in cars. It invariably unwinds with time and heat. Someone else here may know of a better way of re-insulating the scrapped-off wire insulation, but you are reticent to cut the wires, I have found heated glue gun to be much more effective! Just carefully coat the soldered connection.
    Don
    Please don't PM to ask questions about coding, or vehicle repairs. The better place to deal with these matters is on-line, in the forum proper. That way you get the benefit of the expertise of the wider forum! Thank you.

  9. #69
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    I don't think you can see it very well in my photos but I had to un-clip a flap either side of the connector before I could pull the pins out.
    The flap stops the pins from coming out, I'm really surprised there would be different connectors in the car.
    If it is different I wouldn't use electrical tape.
    I'd cut the wires, strip back a few mm of wire from both ends, but some heatshrink sleeve over the wire, solder the 2 wires back + the S/S PCB wires and slide the heatshrink back over the join.

    FYI - I've made my PCB + soldered on the SMD components, just waiting to replace my prototype version.

    Looks like Don has taken the design to the next level !!!!!!
    I've just about forgotten mine is in the car now.
    MY21 Golf MK8 GTI | Kings Red Metallic | all options |
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  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJW View Post
    I don't think you can see it very well in my photos but I had to un-clip a flap either side of the connector before I could pull the pins out. The flap stops the pins from coming out, I'm really surprised there would be different connectors in the car.
    Are these flaps on the long or short edge of the clip? I struggled to see any flaps last night.

    In this photo:



    What is that 'block' with the two holes sticking up out of the back of the connector where the wires go in? Or am I seeing something different due to the angle of the photo and an unfamiliarity with your connector? To me that's the same long side of the connector as in this photo:



    And yet the connector looks totally different between the two photos!? If I could just see the connector side on it'd probably be obvious

    What I'm thinking is that in the second photo, the part of the connector with the single round indent, and two rectangular indents, is a cover of some form because it's missing from the first photo. That's why there is an extra groove in the side of the connector in the first photo, and why the gap between the base of the connector and the top part where the springs are seems to be bigger. The questions is - how to get the cover off? I just couldn't seem to do it last night.

    Am I making any sense?

    You say the connector is swiss made? Got a part number that I could reference perhaps?
    2016 GTI Performance | Pure White | JB1 | Dog Bone | Full Tint | Stop/Start Delete | Avatar by sandwg

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