Multivan Ignition Barrel

[The_Hawk]

So the Multivan key spun around and around the other day (so says the wife), apparently some helpful dad at kinder jiggled it until it clicked back into place and has kept on working without issue.

After being given a $700+ quote to have it repaired I looked up the parts in ETKA and figured it looked easy enough to swap out and I really do miss tinkering with things.

Part no: 6R0 905 851 *

I did read that the ‘B’ variant was replaced in 2010 but when I stumbled across a B for about $60 delivered for a rebuilt unit I figured it was worth a gamble. As it turns out the current one is a ‘F’ version… so I’m going backwards.

Getting the old one out was pretty straight forward, I had everything but the M12 spline drive socket for the steering wheel (which I now have). Getting out the shear bolts was easy enough (I grabbed a set of bolts to use when re-installing).

So the part was removed and I noticed the reco part doesn’t have the solenoid looking part the one in the van has.

Part:



Solendoid?



I had a few thoughts, one was to just put it back in but it seems to have bound up completely after being removed and no amount of tinkering saw it come good.

Plan B: rebuild the old one with all the reco parts. Seems that the electronic ignition bit is not removable, even after stripping the insides from the reco one… also I couldn’t get all the parts out of the original one.


In the end I put the new reco one back together and have put that in. I did have an extra part when I was finished rebuilding it. There appears to be a small locking pin inside the mechanism…. I’m not sure what it does (either locking something open or closed?) but it appears to work just fine without it in there.

The circled one is the one I pulled from the reco part, the other one has mysteriously appeared (even though I never got that deep on the original one…

Extra Pins:




In any case, it’s halfway back in, seems to start OK, it will shift into gear and the key can’t be removed unless you turn it off (I figured that pin might lock the key in).


So can anyone tell me what that little solenoid thing does? Something for an Auto? Something else entirely?

Also that locking PIN? Anything important I haven’t found out yet?


I might look into finding another newer variant and throwing that in which should be much much quicker now that I know how it all goes together. Anyone know where I might find another cheap one?

[Umai Naa!!]

Same as 6R Polo, so shouldn't be too hard to track down parts.

Not the first time I've seen and read issues with these. Most seem to have problems with them jamming up though, which suggests poor assembly and lack of sufficient lubrication. Under warranty, we were just throwing complete pre-coded (off the VIN) ignition lock assemblies at them.

[jets]

What year & mileage? Do you think it was strained, worn out or just broke. During your ownership, did you ever lube it? I know the T4 needs a replacement switch at some stage, but I haven't read about barrels needing replacement. The'01 Polo I used to own,[145000km] wore out the switch which I replaced but the barrel was also starting to get dodgy so I just lubed it as the car was soon to be replaced. A guy on an American forum who works as a mechanic has an opinion that the manufacturers are doing a good job of reducing the life of parts to get you out of your car & into a new one.
Good work for tackling that job. The Polo I worked on caused me a few headaches with the airbag light that wouldn't go off. It was also fortunate that I own the special puller that the dealers use.

[The_Hawk]

I've still got no clue on why the original one is now binding up, it was still working near perfectly in the car (notchy sometimes). Maybe toying with it was the last straw that knocked some internal part loose. I've had it since new in 2010, first of the T5GP/T5.1, 165k on the clock. I've never lubed it and I doubt anyone else has either, it's not exactly "regular maintenance" easy to get at.

The old one doesn't look that bad inside, clearly a few worn bits, but I didn't see parts fall out of it (although that pin with the spring must have come out at some point because it wasn't from the new one.

The job is easy enough, as with many of these jobs, half the challenge is having the balls to give it a bash

[Sunny43.5]

We had ours in our T5.1 play up a couple of times like The Hawks wife experienced , the key would just spin around in the barrel with no resistance at all . If I removed the key and reinserted it it was then normal again . Its is all good now as it has not done it for a couple of years now , fingers crossed .
Oh and everyone have a Merry Christmas .

[jets]

I've never lubed it and I doubt anyone else has either, it's not exactly "regular maintenance" easy to get at.

I squirt a small amount of Teflon gun lube in the slot & then move the key in & out a couple of times, turning as well to move the lube around.
The brand I use is Remington & before I have used Tri-Flow. It's very thin & doesn't leave a residue like WD40 but only Teflon.

AND, as Sunny has said, Have a Merry Christmas everyone.

[Umai Naa!!]

WD-40 breaks down whatever grease is in there, making it worse.

Locksmiths recommend graphite powder.

[Transporter]

....and if you don't have a graphite powder, make some by running a pencil on some fine sandpaper.

[The_Hawk]

So does anyone know what that little solenoid does?
Or what that pin on the inside does?

[Umai Naa!!]

Shifter interlock.

Stops you from pulling the key out unless in P or N.