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Thread: Vw polo 2012 - brake replacement and servicing

  1. #1
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    Vw polo 2012 - brake replacement and servicing

    Hey Guys! Newbie here-

    I own a 2012 Polo 6R TSI, and have a few questions to ask and I really need help

    Brakes:
    1)When I leave the car sitting in the garage for the night and take it out the next morning, the brakes squeal until I get on a higher speed and start breaking. Also the car's steering shakes when braking at high speeds and the car does like a small jerk when coming to a stop -obviously this would indicate the need for brake replacements right? But I don't know whether it needs the rotor or pads replaced; im assuming both

    2)Is the brake replacement a job possible to do at home in the garage (given I have the necessary tools) - and do you have to flush the brake fluid also when you do this?

    3)Where would be a good place to get genuine brakes (or even aftermarket one?)

    Engine
    1) Is it a good idea to get it serviced at VW? I've just heard so many terrible stories about "stealer"-ships ripping people off
    2)my engine does the usual stuttring at low rev/low speed - what would be the cause of this?

    Thank you guys so much!

  2. #2
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    My 20 cents;

    Replacing pads without replacing rotors is OK, but replacing rotors without replacing pads isn't something that I'd suggest.

    Shake is usually a good indicator of rotor warpage, maybe fixable with a skim, but most likely new rotors.

    If they are genuine VW brake pads they generally (but not always) don't squeal, they have plenty of carbon black to hep prevent that (hence dirty wheels pretty quickly). Aftermarket brake pads are a bit hit and miss.

    When I change rotors is usually change brake fluid at the same time, a full change using the manual (up and down) method takes a while with 2 people, but cheaper than a pressure bleed at a dealer. Same result if done properly.

    Engine misfire could be any number of things, you could try some new spark plugs, that's a cheapish fix. If that doesn't work then a trip to the dealer with plug in diagnostics might reveal the issue.


    Cheers
    Gary
    Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST

  3. #3
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    These were known for rotors warping. By the time you machined them true again, you'd probably have to throw the discs away anyway, as they'd be close to undersized.

    I believe VW issued revised a rotor to minimise the likelihood of it occurring.
    '07 Transporter 1.9 TDI
    '01 Beetle 2.0

  4. #4
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    If your going to replace rotors/pads depending on your budget look at ate ceramic pads with new rotors they are more expensive than the oem vw pad x2 in cost approx but will last for 4 times as long with great pedal feel and lovely progressive braking
    Also as a bonus you get rid of the black dust all over your wheels the ceramic pads give off a light brown dust which is easy to just blow off with a hose!
    2017 Golf Alltrack 135tdi All options
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kachingg View Post
    If your going to replace rotors/pads depending on your budget look at ate ceramic pads with new rotors they are more expensive than the oem vw pad x2 in cost approx but will last for 4 times as long with great pedal feel and lovely progressive braking
    Also as a bonus you get rid of the black dust all over your wheels the ceramic pads give off a light brown dust which is easy to just blow off with a hose!
    Where can I buy them? I was thinking of buying the pads and rotors myself and then taking them to a individual specialised shop

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sydneykid View Post
    My 20 cents;

    Replacing pads without replacing rotors is OK, but replacing rotors without replacing pads isn't something that I'd suggest.

    Shake is usually a good indicator of rotor warpage, maybe fixable with a skim, but most likely new rotors.

    If they are genuine VW brake pads they generally (but not always) don't squeal, they have plenty of carbon black to hep prevent that (hence dirty wheels pretty quickly). Aftermarket brake pads are a bit hit and miss.

    When I change rotors is usually change brake fluid at the same time, a full change using the manual (up and down) method takes a while with 2 people, but cheaper than a pressure bleed at a dealer. Same result if done properly.

    Engine misfire could be any number of things, you could try some new spark plugs, that's a cheapish fix. If that doesn't work then a trip to the dealer with plug in diagnostics might reveal the issue.


    Cheers
    Gary
    What do you think of replacing with ceramics or Remsa pads??

  7. #7
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    Do not recommend Remsas. Very dusty, very noisy, and have very poor cold performance.

    The internet will tell you otherwise, but I've thrown out enough sets to know how they are in the real world.

    ATE Ceramics can be bought from, and installed by approved ATE Brakes centres. ATE has their own OEM-grade discs as well.

    ATE Brake Centres - ATE Australia
    '07 Transporter 1.9 TDI
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  8. #8
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    Yep go a approved ate seller as Umai Naa suggests spend the little extra you wont be disappointed i love mine have not hand washed the wheels for ages and they look great
    2017 Golf Alltrack 135tdi All options
    19 inch Brescia Wheels Golf R brakes front and rear
    Calipers painted Candy apple gold
    New rear sway bar and linkages

  9. #9
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    As with all things there are pluses and minuses in brake pad material. Being an old circuit racer I'm pretty demanding on the stopping power of the brake pads I use. Conversely I’m not a show car person and washing wheels slightly more often doesn’t worry me. Ceramic pad compounds were not designed to be a performance brake pad. They typically have lower friction coefficients than equivalent semi metallic pads, so I’d suggest checking their CoF before making a decision. The ceramic also act as an insulator, hence raising rotor temperature, it’s unavoidable with cast iron rotors. This can mean it’s easier to warp the rotors, it doesn’t mean that warped rotors are bound to happen, just that it’s easier to induce.

    History is important, ceramic brake pad compounds were designed for lower dust and to be relatively noise free. They became popular when asbestos based brake pad compounds were banned. Semi metallic pads back then had problems with higher noise and dust levels but that has mostly been overcome, but there are still trade offs (less noise more dust, or vice versa).

    Some companies do a good job at marketing higher priced ceramic pad compounds as being for performance use. But that’s not really what the ceramic in the compound is there for.

    Don’t get me wrong, ceramic brake pads have a place in the range of brake pads, the questions is it your place?


    Cheers
    Gary
    Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST

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