Do you know which ADR this is?
Ok, I found it. It is ADR 42/02, General Safety. In particular clause 6 covers this and it states:
6. CIGAR AND CIGARETTE LIGHTERS
Any cigar or cigarette lighter fitted to a motor vehicle must be capable of activation only when the ignition or engine control switch is in the “accessory” or the “engine on” position.
Now the wording states "Any cigar or cigarette lighter", and so would not cover the accessory sockets elsewhere. So, it clearly states that the sockets "must be capable of activation only when the ignition or engine coltrol switch is in the "accessory" or "engine on" position.
Thanks for making me search for this critical piece of information. I am not having a go at you, it is very tongue in cheek. Without knowing it was an ADR thing, I would not have known where to start
Now, the requirement was deleted in 42/03. This is done when it becomes common practice and hence no longer needs to be mandated. The deletion of the requirement does not mean that the manufacturer must now do the exact opposite. The reason it was there was because of safety, and its removal does not now make the opposite a requirement. There are many things that were covered by specific ADR's but the ADR was then withdrawn as it have become standard practice.
Do you know of the ADR that specifically requires the sockets to be powered up all the time?
Last edited by wai; 27-06-2012 at 10:05 PM.
Bug_racer supports the rebellion of the euro revolution
It is a matter of safety for the lighter socket as it has a mechanism to grip and hold the lighter element so that it can heat up. If the lighter element get jambed in the socket (for any reason) it will simply keep heating up and there is no way to turn it off without finding a spanner, lifting the bonnet, and disconnecting the battery. Unless you know exactly which fuse protects it, there is no point in trying to locate and read the fuse layout sticker as it would take you less time to find a spanner and disconnect the battery.
I recommend Jade Auto repair center at Rosebery. I did my last service there, reasonably priced. They even picked up all the spare coins I have scattered on the floor and tiny cracks of the polo (and gave them to me! Can't get more honest than that!)
I will most definitely head back to them.
I should say that the reason why I did not buy the Caddy from Trivetts Blacktown was because they did not respond to my online and telephone call requests to book a test drive. It was some 3 months after I bought the Caddy from NMG in Penrith that Trivetts actually contacted me regarding a test drive!
Then again, I had great sales service from NMG, but hopeless vehicle service, maybe it is just the opposite at Trivetts Blacktown.
I did look into getting an extended 3 year warranty (no rush at the moment), only what is covered is a little bit light. The drive train seems to be excluded, and things like paint can be weaseled out of very easily.
If you tell them the paint has failed, they ask if you used a polish on it. If you say yes, they will blame it on the polish, and if you say no, they will say you failed to adequately maintain it. The same goes for just about all they do "cover".
Somehow I don't think they are worth that much anyway. Now I remember why I skipped it when I bought it.
Last edited by wai; 09-07-2012 at 11:20 PM. Reason: typo!!
Drive train excluded on the Allianz underwritten genuine VW extended warranty? WTF? It was in there the last time I looked - in fact, it's the main part of the warranty.I did look into getting an extended 3 year warranty (no rush at the moment), only what is covered is a little bit light. The drive train seems to be excluded, and things like paint can be weaseled out of very easily.
Paint isn't covered under extended warranty AFAIK. And you use polish on your paint? My car is 5 years old & I've never used a product called "polish" on it. Quality car wash, clay, quality wax, quick detailer but never polish.
Slightly off topic, I have used Autoglym Super Resin Polish, along with Autoglyms Extra Gloss protection and High Definition Wax, which is all good quality stuff. Its my understanding that most detailers would use a form of ploish too. its good when layered with EGP and HD wax.
06 VW 9N3 Polo GTI - Reflex Silver Leather/OEM Colour coded S/guard/OEM Lower Honeycombe Grille/NSP Boost Gauge/APR Stage 1+,Dogbone & DP/K&N filter/Forge s/shift,DV008 & Strut brace/PD 160/Samco camo TIP/Whitline RSB/FK AK's/17 x 8 Oettiger RE's/Alpine Head Unit & Sony Amp. OEM+FTW
polish is an abrasive. If your paint doesn't need correction & you don't need fillers then you don't need polish.
Plenty of info in the detailing section.
16. Any mechanical failure caused by a fault that existed prior to the commencement of cover.
Forget any claim being paid on a drive train claim as if you have had ANY service where you asked the dealer to check out an issue with the drive train, this is effectively establishing there was a fault prior to the commencement of the warranty extension.
Even when you take this up when you buy the car, the warranty is in two parts. The first is the manufacturer's warranty that commences when the vehicle is bought, and the extension warranty is from a third party that commences when the manufacturer's warranty expires.
On the paint bit, I don't and would not use polish unless I needed to correct an issue. This is what happened to a colleague where the paint started to flake off (you have seen the cars with what appears to be "sun burn"). Well, no matter which way he went he was knocked out. He was basically told that if he did not use a polish or any other treatment, he was not maintaining the vehicle adequately, and if he did use a polish or anything else, then he would have to take the matter up with the treatment manufacturer.