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Thread: DIY adjustable camber ball joints mod

  1. #81
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    Nov 2014
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    Melbourne
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    Agree, leave it but bring them along just in case you want to play. Problem with a HC the time is limited so I would only put them on if you don't like it with them off because it feels skitty (I don't think it will, it is not like you have a 155 on the back as well!)

  2. #82
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    Sep 2013
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    nsw
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    yeah I think i'll do that. Its so cold up there in the mornings, usually about 6 degrees, that first run is always very slidey on cold tyres straight out of the boot. It won't be until second run that i'll get a proper idea. It looks like the track will be wet and then drying throughout the day which will make it even trickier, so that's why I was hoping for magic bullet advice, but yeah i'll just leave it be and only put them on if I'm all over the shop.
    thx

  3. #83
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    Dec 2012
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    Sutherland Shire, Sydney
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    Sounds like a plan

    When it's cold and wet the last thing you want is understeer
    The BTCC guys all set the car up to over steer in the wet
    2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
    APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
    APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
    Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels

  4. #84
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    Sep 2013
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    Got a correction to make. I'd been measuring tracks off the 'centre' tread line in my Re003's. It turns out to not even be in the centre so my tracks are a lot bigger. Going off the track widths in the manual (ET43 for my manual I assume), and then adding spacings and BJ mods to them, the tracks are:

    stock: 1434:1426
    audi BJ - no spacers: 1454:1426
    audi BJ front 12mm:rear 20mm: 1478:1466

    Today I decided to run the rear 20mm spacers which turned out to be a good decision. We drove from Sydney and it was dry until we hit thick fog and fog/drizzle at Newcastle. It was 8 degrees, foggy and damp and the pits were a bog. I managed to find a bay with road base stones that left the tyres cleaner but it was pretty atrocious conditions for the first time out in the wet on stone cold A050's.
    First run was just 8/10 looking for dirt and any rivers on the track and it was slippery as hell. Second run was big time sideways at the first corner but kept my foot buried and drove out of it cleanly and similar on turn two. I was in first spot so far and then by run 3 there was a dry line appearing. Run 4 was my quickest. I did a 44.62 which was 0.22 quicker than last month and for the conditions on a grit covered cold track was a much better effort than last time. I was leading the class by over a second at this point. Going into my last run I watched as my mate in his clio lost it coming over the finish line and slid 20+m towards a concrete wall. He'd dipped his outside tyres onto the wet grass and looped it into a grass gully. If it wasn't for the marsh and the fact that his rims dug in just before the wall he wouldn't have stopped. Can't really say if that shook me but I did think I was clear enough to get the win. My last run felt quick but I clipped a witches hat on a corner they were policing to stop people getting wheels on the grass and got a 5 second penalty. That didn't loose it for me - I hadn't gone quicker anyway but somehow the guy that was in second went over a second faster on his last run and got top spot. So I finished second in class against a pretty mental VZ and saw off a another VZ, a new clubsport GTS, a 600hp XR6T an XR8 etc so pretty happy. If the time penalty from hitting that cone had cost me I'd have been spewing but I didn't go quicker on the last run and he beat me fair and square so I was stoked.
    The 2 degrees didn't hurt power down. There was zero traction off the start line anyway and considering that it was colder damp then drying throughout and the track covered in grit and every start being made with dirty semi's, I'd have to say the new front end made a massive difference compared to last time out on a warmer bone dry track. Considering how planted the front end felt and that I really only had to worry about the rear, I think the mod has worked super well and I'm glad I didn't run the narrow track rear.
    When the result sheet is sent out to us i'll stick it on the tracking thread

  5. #85
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    ouch I just saw the results - he beat me by 0.4sec! now I'm spewing.

    edit: what the it was 0.04!!!
    Last edited by sambb; 07-08-2016 at 08:39 PM.

  6. #86
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    Dec 2012
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    Sutherland Shire, Sydney
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    Great report

    Scary moment for the Clio indeed

    Good to hear the car is handling well
    2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
    APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
    APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
    Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels

  7. #87
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    I just spoke to my clio mate. He said that after he gave the thumbs up to the marshals that he was ok, he found that he could actually touch the concrete wall and some blokes that were standing right there, beers in hand had their jaws on the floor.
    I could trail brake deeper, get on the power earlier and just had so much confidence in it. I'll be happy to lower it now and will reposition the offset bushes for some more castor which should finish off the front end for a while.
    thanks for all the advice peoples. its been much appreciated.

  8. #88
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    Sep 2013
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    bit of an update. Because my control arm pivot points had moved for the better with the ball joint mod, I went ahead and re installed my weitec lowered springs. They are a tad stiffer than H&R's and their ride height is between stock and the H&R's (330mm from guard lip to centre). The control arm pivots and ball joint pivot point are dead level now.
    At the same time I pressed out my rear LCA bushes that were in the anti dive position which lessens the anti dive geometry of the car and pressed them back in in the castor position. I just got the toe reset and it has jumped a full degree and a half from +4/1/2 degrees castor to 6 degrees. I left the camber on -2/1/4 degrees because in 7 weeks is the steepest, quickest and riskiest hillclimb on the calender at Huntley. After that i'll get the subframes and camber all finally set together at the end of the year.
    So I've got some pretty good geometry numbers out of it now. Only thing left is to drive it and see if bump steer is going to be a problem. I'm hunting for some tie rod ends that may fix that if its an issue. Landrover discovery 3/4 may fit and offer steering correction as they have a really long ball pin but it may not be necessary.

    Here's a vid of Huntley. Note the run off area? on the outside of this turn. To get a good time in road reg < or> 2.5L class, the aim is to get through there flat in third and then just brush the brakes through the esses. Its hard to see but its bumpy and narrow and steeper than going up the esses at panorama.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMMUAj3R00E

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