Support VWWC

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 13 of 13

Thread: custom 24mm rear anti roll bar

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    nsw
    Posts
    3,214
    Users Country Flag Thread Starter

    My car sadly passed away yesterday, declared a write off after being pole axed from behind by a land rover which then launched me into a toureg. The plan is to retain the wreck and use it as a parts back up/donor where need be and start over with a second car.

    As far as this thread goes though I think i'll park the custom 24mm bar idea. I'll have a spare rear beam and so want to try something that I'm told is the gun mod for rear beams. Basically i'll get the beam pulled into a zero toe position so I don't need to run toe spacers at the hub. If I can find some sealed sphericals I'll use those as the rear beam bushes. Then i'll box the rear beam by welding closed the open side of the torsion beam with hole-sawed plate. That'll hopefully lift the non anti roll barred stiffness of the rear beam to the point where I may not even need an add on bar or if I do can keep using the 20mm whiteline that I already have to dial in the right setting. The advantage is that it is very light to do it this way eg it keeps your unsprung weight down relative to how stiff you'll be running and looks stock because the open side of our beam, the side that would be boxed faces the front of the car. Of course i'll get it engineered.
    The other picks I've included are two showing an alternative method to using a RARB which is fitting an additional torsion bar within the .V. I know from one of Julian edgars blogs on his Honda insight blog that he fitted a factory add on torsion bar like this from a 90's corolla into the Honda and got great results. I think welding will be better than this though. Beams get drilled for internal bar fitments probably because a lot of them can be done with the beam in the car.
    The other pics are beam mods I've seen on some FWD hillclimb cars and on early golf build blogs. The tie rods are designed to prevent toe changes in the rear wheels under hard braking and acceleration, but I'm not sure I'd ever build the kind of G's that might do that and it looks a bit hard to design around our spring/damper positions.
    custom 24mm rear anti roll bar-boxed-rear-beam-jpgcustom 24mm rear anti roll bar-dsc08059x640-jpgcustom 24mm rear anti roll bar-th3cod7bbg-jpgcustom 24mm rear anti roll bar-dsc08941-jpg

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Tweed Heads
    Posts
    955
    Hoyhoy.

    Sorry to hear about the Pog Sam.
    Hooroo.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    nsw
    Posts
    3,214
    Users Country Flag Thread Starter

    thanks mate. ruined a comp year that was looking pretty good too. My wifes going OS with some friends at the end of the year so I'd gotten the green light to do all the state rounds including camping away and doing the practice days etc. don't know if that'll happen next year but we'll see. yeah its going to be a tonne of work to get the old one stripped and then to do swap overs of any bits onto the new car eg dump, exhaust, ecu, WI?, rear beam, the reamed subframes with your eccentric bolts, engine mounts, lower control arms with the TT ball joints, a FARB etc etc think I might need to see a project manager! at least i'll have a spare engine that I can maybe build up and most of all a spare box to get an LSD built into without having the car off the road - all long term stuff though.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
| |